That is a bit odd, however one thing that might cause this is an exceptionally long or poor quality USB cable - I'm not suggesting this IS the cause in your case, but....

It's up to you, and i would hate you to do it and lose what stability you have achieved because of something I've suggested, but what I would do myself and the consequences be hanged LOL, is to do as I suggested a few posts ago and that is to go into Device Manager and uninstall all the USB hubs and controllers, reboot Windows and let it detect them all as new hardware and hope that whatever 'funnies' are going on cease.  No guarantees that this will fix your issue, and as I intimated it could well be your best policy to leave well alone if it's not causing you any real problems.

Nick

No worries.  The forum servers were playing up over the weekend, so that's probably why you didn't get email notification.

Nick

Santuzzo,

  If you're still getting blue screens than we need to see some crash logs.

  I created a support ticket for you so we can resolve this issue. Please respond to the ticket. Thanks.

  Q: What is a support ticket?

  A: A support ticket allows you to directly correspond with a Line 6 Support Representative. An email will be sent to you from Line 6 containing a link if a Line 6 support representative determines that a ticket is necessary to troubleshoot your issue. Please follow the link in the email to view your open ticket to work one on one with Line 6 Support.

  Please note: Sometimes support tickets will be filtered to spam and junk folders. If you did not receive an email from us indicating that a ticket has been created, please make sure to check those folders in your email host.

  http://line6.com/account/tickets/view/

  Line6Miller

Lars,

  I'm going to mark your question out as closed simply because we have a support ticket one on one at this point. This doesn't mean you can't reply to the thread as well as follow up on it once we have a resolution. Thanks.

  Line6Miller

BSOD's rarely occur to order unfortunately - I just had a couple of days of trying to restore a Windows Small Business Server 2008 backup to an identical second server so I could take the original server down for some hardware maintenance and keep running.  They're my own servers, but having one on line 24/7 is pretty mission critical for me.  They're only baby servers as that's all I need but both are HP Proliant ML110 G5 models.  The backup restored really nicely for the first RAID 1 array, but the first, second and third times I tried the Restore, the bl**dy thing BSOD'd on me at different points in the restore of the second RAID array.  Now I said they were identical - and they are except for the four 2GB DDR2 memory modules.   The SATA RAID array didn't seem to like something about the memory timings of the 4 memory modules in the destination machine which are different to the source machine. Swapping the memory for 4 1GB sticks of HP ECC RAM resolved the issue in the short term and now the machines are fully switched out and in, I have swapped the 8GB RAM out of the source machine, so yet again memory issues were at the root of the problem for me.  Y'know already what I have my money on with your machine

Yeah - I saw your other thread and the behaviour you're seeing does look a bit odd.  I really can't say I'm seeing anything quite like that.  Sorry

As guitarists we're NEVER completely happy with our tone are we?  That's a given LOL - we're always in search of the Holy Grail of tones as well as the 'lost chord'.  But I have to say I am very happy - as happy as I'm ever likely to be - with the tones from the HD500 - no complaints there at all, but can we have a........?. and a.......? Oh, and whilst we're on the subject wouldn'yt it be great if the HD500 could..... ?  Gimme more I need MORE and I NEED it NOW!!  LOL

Keep on tweaking - I'm sure your tones will sound great

Nick

Hi Lars

I don't think the amount of RAM will be the problem - and that's only if it does turn out to be a memory issue.  You have 6GB for Windows XP 32 bit, which at its absolute maximum including Graphics card RAM can only see 4GB of addressable memory, and that being the case the average seems to be that Windows reports about 3.2GB of usabe RAM.  Windows 7 64 bit will see all your RAM.  However I think FWIW that it's more likely to be an issue whereby the memory timings and/or voltage don't match up with the requirements/possible settings of the motherboard and CPU.  Corsair is great RAM there's no doubt, but it still needs to be matched to the board and CPU in terms of the voltage and timings marked on each stick of RAM, and the motherboard/memory controller needs to ideally Auto detect these timings from the RAM itself.  Memory 'timings' are expressed in 'clock ticks' taken to reliably work properly in terms of things like Coulumn Address Strobe (CAS), Row address Strobe RAS) - memory is logically arranged in an array/matrix comprising columns and rows and each cell in the matrix is either in an ON state (1) or an OFF state (0) at any time - if one cell doesn't properly hold the electrical charge relaibly or doesn't get or release the charge quickly enough you get the possibility of instability when the cell actually affects something you're trying to do.  Each 'cell' is at a particular row and column 'address' like cells in an Excel spreadsheet if you like. Memory timings will be printed on a label stuck to the memory module itself usually and will look like  5-5-5-18 (that doesn't represent all the timings btw either) and the required/recommended operational voltage - e.g. 1.80v will also be shownUnfortunately, sometimes the memory timings cannot always be auto detected properly depending on the actual part number.  Corsair makes loads of different types of memory module and some will be suited to your motherboard and CPU, but probably not all will.  Asus and Gigabyte amongst others have a system whereby they road test different manufacturer's memory modules by part number with their motherboards, and they usually compile a list of memory modules that they have tested and which they know and can guarantee will work.  This is called a Qualified Vendor List or QVL.  The QVL won't include every single manufacturer's known good memory part numbers because that's a lot of memory to test, but it will contain a few certainly and ideally when you purchase a new motherboard, CPU and memory you'd be better buying memory that is listed on the QVL than memory that isn't.  It doesn't mean that memory that isn't listed won't work at all or won't necessarily work as efficiently - but if it's not on the QVL it hasn't been tested.  Incidentally the DDR 2 RAM I was using in my server was Corsair too, but looking at it the timings marked on the modules aren't quite the same as the stock standard memory modules.  In fact the Corsair memory should perform slightly faster, but it seems that the motherboard was somewhat puzzled by the auto detected timings, so it's not quite compatible - simple as that in my case.

Before the Intel i7 socket 1366 CPU series the memory controller has always traditionally been part of the motherboard assembly, but with the i7 socket 1366 the memory controller is now part of the CPU which is good because the memory controller and CPU need to work very closely together for obvious reasons.  If memory was ever slightly unstable at the operational speeds, the standard fix was to throw a bit more voltage at it in small steps until stability was achieved and because the control was managed from by the motherboard, then this would pose less of a risk to the CPU.  Now the i7 920 that both you and I have if you read the spec allows for memory module voltages of up to only 1.5v to be used safely - in other words Intel disclaim any responsibility for damage if you use memory that wants more voltage than this to run properly, so if you find you can't get RAM that runs reliably at 1.50v and you go for RAM that requires 1.65v or 1.80v you are probably going to have to steadily turn up the juice to get to that level and although 0.30v doesn't sound a lot to us, to a CPU it is quite a bit of a jump and you do run the risk of burning out your expensive CPU, so it IS much more of a balancing act than previously.  In practice I have found that my i7 920 is quite tolerant of voltages a tiny bit above the stated 1.50v for memory, but seriously if you tweak voltage and timings you do so at your own risk.  The CMOS setup pages in your system BIOS will almost certainly allow you to leave your memory voltage and timings at AUTO detect or to manually tweak them - which is a bit of a black art and a lot of trial and error, but this is where, if you can source enough information that you might be able to solve any memory timing/voltage issues - IF they exist that is - and that's what we don't really know for sure - I just think there's a strong possibility of it.

i think I mentioned in another post that the memory I have in my i7 920 based machine is supposed to work at 1666MHz reliably and that both the motherboard and CPU support this speed.   It does work at this speed, but it isn't as stable as it is if I run it a notch down at 1333MHz, where it is rock solid.  That's the quick fix BTW - I want to get it working at the proper speed, but haven't really had sufficient time to spend messing about with it - and I know it will work because I've had it working at the proper speed but I swapped the case it was in for a better one and something I did upset it LOL, plus the graphics card I originally had in there went belly up and had to be replaced under warranty - just died.  The RAM is rated at 1.65v which is manageable but still over Intel's recommended 1.50v and I would like to throw a bit more voltage at it ideally, but Ialso don't want to flush an expensive CPU down the toilet

This memory is also Corsair branded - I got the Dominator branded stuff at 1666MHz in two 6GB kits of triple channel RAM.  there may well be another BIOS update for my Gigabtre motherboard by now - I haven't looked for about 8 or 9 months  I have 6GB in 2GB modules of matched Crucial RAM spare on the shelf, which I did use in the system initially, but the voltage spec on that was 1.80v when I looked, so that's why I swapped it out, but I had no obvious issues with it and perhaps should have chanced leaving it in situ

I do think your issue is likely to be related to the memory modules you have in your system unfortunately and that it may not quite match up to your motherboard as nicley as it could as you suggest.  You might want to try testing it using something like MEMTest 86 which will allow you to make a bootable CD and will cycle through a number of tests a number of times until you tell it to stop.  It will identify any errors and report them on screen.  Any errors at all are unacceptable and you need to take action.  the first step is usually to drop the operating speed of the RAM through the BIOS to the next level e.g like mine is supposed to work at 1666MHz I dropped it back to 1333MHz because it does work well.

Nick