Fluffy

+1 on Dean.   It can be frustrating getting oriented with a new piece of kit but I think you should persevere.  I  know you are new to Pods so I will hit you with information  - forgive me if too much.  

1. The Advanced user guide is found here --> http://line6.com/support/manuals/ .  The current english version for 1.40 firmware is found here -->http://l6c.scdn.line6.net/data/l/0a06434d54144e6f92aa2937e/application/pdf/POD%20HD%20Pro%20Advanced%20Guide%20(Rev%20B)%20-%20English.pdf .  It will explain much of what I and others are talking about in more detail.
   
   
2. If you have not already updated the firmware to 1.40 then do it now.  The latest firmware has the latest fixes and features and is recommended.  Use Line 6 Monkey to check and update the firmware.   This is available at the link here --- > http://line6.com/software/ .
   
3. As Dean says:  It is important to setup the right output mode for the HD.   For your Rocktron Velocity, set the output type to 'Combo Power Amp' or 'Stack Power Amp'.  Details on how to do this can be found on page 2-7 of the advanced guide.  This should be your starting point.  If one of the other modes sounds better to you then use that.
   
   
4. The preset's on the Pod HD are configured to show off the various effects and yes, are a bit over the top on some patches.  My best advice to you is to create your own 'blank' patch and populate it with the effects that you are most interested in for 'standard' use.   Save this as a template on your PC (using HD Edit) and clone it for each amp setup that you want.  You can always alter the effects later for a specific patch.
   
   
5. One of the expert users, Nick Mattocks, created a set of demo patches for each of the amp models.  These showed a clean, crunchy and dirty tone for each amp.  The patches have been around a while and may be affected by the latest firmware but may be worth a look.  They can be found here http://line6.com/support/thread/46526 .
   
   
6. As dean says:  the full amp models are best suited to when you plug the HD into a PC or mixing disk.  For your Rocktron setup it may be better to use pre-amp models but try both.   Try also both with and without speaker simulators.   Mic Models will not work if you setup your HD as I suggest in 3 above.
   
   
7. Meambobbo, another forum user, has an excellent document for creating rock and high gain tones if required.   Found here -->  http://line6.com/support/thread/71651
8. If you have a specific style, artist or song tone in mind, try checking the user-created library of tones here --> http://line6.com/customtone/browse/podhd500/ .  You may be able to find something good as a starting point.

A key point is that the setup of the HD and patches very much depends on what you are plugging it into,  This will differ a lot for plugging into a desk, plugging into a power amp, plugging in for effects only in a four cable setup or whatever.    Keep plugging and come back with specific problems. 

HTH

JIM

V_Fluffy wrote:

 

I thought I could change to something like an American high gain (Mesa Dual Rectifier) but, unfortunately, it looks like there isn't an amp sim for this yet- great.....

Treadplate.

First off make sure you're not clipping your unit:

1) Turn on the tuner.  Select your bridge humbucker.  Make sure your guitar volume is on full.  Strum as hard as you can and listen for clipping in the tone.  If there is clipping, you are either clipping the Pod's input or your amp's input (even if you are running to power amp in).  Turn down the unit's Master knob and see if that eliminates the clipping.  If not, turn down the guitar's volume control and see if that eliminates it.  If it's input volume, you can lower your pickup height or try to use the unit's Pad switch, or even reduce the input impedance setting in the system menu.

2) Turn off all effects in your patch, and just keep the amp model on.  Does the tone have a clipping sound noticeable?  If so, you are probably clipping the overall signal resolution in the Pod. Make sure your mixer levels are set to 0 db for both channels.  Then reduce the amp/channel volume knob until the clipping is gone.  I like to keep this parameter at 50% or less, but that mainly deals with the next source of clipping...

3) Turn on effects one at a time listening for clipping.  Some effects can boost the signal, which may push it over the signal's overall resolution, or cause it to clip your real amp input.  Even if that's not the case, individual effects may exhibit clipping when fed a strong signal, particularly the Parameteric EQ.  Once such effects are identified, position them in the chain where they are given a softer signal.  Set EQ's that cut first and ones that boost last.  If necessary/possible, position them between the amp and mixer, setting amp volume low and boosting via the mixer.

Now for dialing in:

The JCM800 model takes a bit to dial in.  Ignore it for now.  If you want a similar tone, use the ENGL Fball model.  Some things I like to do with the JCM800 are to always run an overdrive/EQ in front of it to brighten up the tone.  I generally reduce the Bias control and Bias X controls.  Sometimes I push the Master Volume amp parameter to 60-75% to get power amp distortion.  Sometimes I reduce it.

The Uber has a great rich creamy lead tone out the box, but can be terribly muddy sounding if you want a tight tone or metal rhythm.  If you want a Mesa Mark type tone, throw a Studio EQ in front the Uber model, set low freq to 1000HZ and crank it in the +8-10db range.  Set high freq to 200 HZ and set it to -9-11 db.  This completely transforms the amp.  This is my favorite tone in the Pod HD.

Similar techniques will help tighten up the Treadplate and Fball models, and help dial in that perfect distortion tone you're looking for.  The Treadplate and Fball are much less muddy, so I don't usually use a bass cut on them.  Then you can use a Parametric EQ, which helps you find the exact frequency range you want to boost in the mids/upper mids to get a nice distortion.  You have to play around to find the sweet spot, but I just like a subtle change - usually freq 55%, Q 50%, gain 60%.

I find using EQ's a little more transparent and wash out less tone than using Distortion effects as overdrives (drive turned down and gain/output turned up).  However, if you want to try out using a Distortion effect for this purpose, the Screamer and Classic Distortion work well.  Start off leaving the bass control alone or cutting slightly.  Mainly find a balance between tone/filter and highs.  Too much highs can make the amp sound kind of like a blown speaker.  Too much tone (upper mids) can cause the amp to sound a little too much like a cheap stomp box.  The Classic Distortion's filter controls seems to work opposite of the Screamer's tone control - the lower you set them the more bite/djent in the tone.  Finally, I try to use the Classic Distortion as an overdrive more than the Screamer, because the Screamer isn't 100% clean at 0% drive, while the Classic Distortion is.  In a heavily distorted tone, you can't really hear the Screamer's slight breakup, but it can make a lead tone a little rougher than it otherwise would be.

To dial out fizz, I like to use a parametric EQ after the amp and mixer.  I set the gain up to about 75-80% and Q up to about 90%.  I start with frequency around 70% and slowly move up and down from 70 - 100% and try to find the spot that makes the unit sound unbelievably fizzy.  Then I cut that area until the unit no longer sounds fizzy, but don't cut too much or it'll sound muffled.  For me, the spot is usually freq 95%, Q 90%, gain 35%, but it varies for amp models and speaker cabs and mic choices.  Some models are more fizzy than others.  You may want to suck out more than one fizzy spot, using 2 EQ's.  I find 83% is usually a little fizzy for me.  If you find you've lost too much high end, dial it back using one of the EQ's "highs" parameters.  In general, I find the tone is much fizzier when using onboard cab and mic emulation than running out to a power amp without cab/mic emulation...with the exception of the JCM800 model, which seems to have a bit of fizz baked in.  But it can be tamed.

Running out to a real power amp and cabinet, I like to set the output mode to combo power amp and cab model to "no cabinet".  In this mode, there is no mic emulation, which is where the Pod really rounds off the highs.  The cab models are more of a mild EQ'ing.  I don't like to use them because they seem to cut lows and highs out the tone, making it sound a little thin and washed out at the same time.  If your final tone is too bright, try using a Studio EQ at the end and setting high freq to 8000 HZ and cutting a few db.

I tend to use "full" amp models even when running out to a real power amp, then turning down the amp model's "Master Volume" parameter a decent bit, instead of using the "pre" models.  I find the full models have a bit more bite and punch to them.  The pre models kind of sound like the cab models - they are a little thin and washed out at the same time...to my ears.