Yep - lubricating the saddles, trem pivot points and nut and ensuring all burrs are removed as AMX says - just like any guitar really.  Additionally you might find that locking tuners (I have Grover Mini Locking Tuners on mine and these are good because the anchor screw holes match where the holes are on the originals) will help or using a 'locking' method of winding the strings on to the tuning peg to minimise slippage and holding the strings under tension whilst you tune up (as well as 'stretching' new strings) will help.  Making sure the nut slots are wide enough and smooth enough for your gauge of strings will minimise the tendency for them to bind.  Setting the trem block tension up properly so that the bridge floats properly and in a balanced way will help OR if you only want to dive the trem you could set it so that it rests hard back against the body - but if you do that the trem will mark the paintwork so you may also do it by fixing some kind of block inside the trem cavity behind the trem block.  Another solution is a Hipshot Trem Setter, which when set up properly will always ensure that the trem comes to rest in the same place.  Some people have swapped the nut for something more slippery than the standard nut.

Nick