grimm26 wrote:

 

I've searched around the forums a bit and found some postings that are somehwat related to this, but I didn't find exactly what I am loking for.  Hopefully someone here can provide some feedback.  Speaking of feedback , that's part of my question.  I'm wondering if my guitar would be as responsive in the respect of positive feedback from the amplifier causing the the string to keep resonating at the frequency that the amp is amplifying.  Since I am using virtual capo, the string isn't actually vibrating at that frequency so I might not get the cool feedback or even extra sustain I would get at stage volume normally.  Have any of you found that to be the case or have thought about that?  I know this wouldn't be particular to the JTV, but that's what I am considering buying, so that's where I'll pose the question .

 

Along the same lines, the normal sympathetic vibration of strings wouldn't be the same if I were using, for instance, an open D virtual capo tuning.  Depending on what I was playing, the actual string vibrations might get pretty dissonant to each other and negate sustain and normal harmonic "interaction."  If I'm playing something full bore distortion metal, that may not be a big deal (and I wouldn't be playing in open D either), but playing clean arpeggiations that ring together the problem might rear its ugly head..  This would only be an issue with open tunings as opposed to when all of the strings are still at the same relative intervals.

 

Am I just a worry wart?

Hi Grimm26 - I don't think you are a worry-wart at all if you are not familiar with any of the Variax guitars available.

I can...and will only...speak from my personal experience using a Variax Electric Model 700 (I have 2 in different colors & want to get a third for spare parts, etc.)  In other words, please do not chisel anything I'm about to write in stone. Others may write different experiences based on their Vax knowledge and what amp they use.  I'm 99.99999% certain that this is the same or better based on how the modeling works in both the older models and any of the new JTV models coming to retail soon.

I use my 700s through a Vetta combo for both live and studio.  The first thing I would recommend you to do is stop thinking in the conventional way.  Any model Vax in their modeling mode are exactly that.  Models of any guitar you've chosen, plus any alt tunings you've chosen and the strings respond in the manner closet to the real guitar you are emulating with any of the Vax computer based models.

I understand what you are driving at with your concern about phase cancellation if you have a modeled tuning that differs from the actual string tuning.  Amazingly enough - when the Vax's are modeling in alt tunings of any kind - they respond nearly exactly as whatever "real" guitar you've chosen and alt tuning you've chosen even if this clashes, is dissonant, or most likely seem like it would phase cancel due to the physical string tuning not being in sympathetic resonance with the alt tuning.  Yes, this seems like it would be a problem, but as I said preciously - amazingly it is not!!  It seems that once you've chosen a guitar model, then an alt tuning, the modeled combination responds, sustains, feeds back, or whatever you wish it to do as if the physical strings were being tuned in an alt tuning with mag pups.

Some additional bits of info on how to go about getting a good clean sound with or without a Line 6 Amp/Pedalboard.

The amp, or effects board, or whatever you use, etc. also plays a huge role in the end result.  For example, if you want to get a sound something like The Edge gets...Using Workbench...Choose the Firebird body, put a LP Deluxe pup in the bridge position with a 5 to 10 degree angle counter-clockwise which will accentuate the B & E strings , then add IN SERIES, a P90 in the Neck slot pulled down to mid body, then slide it back up about the width of the pup closer to the fretboard with no angle.  Leave them IN PHASE, then change the volume pot to 250K ohm and the tone to 100K ohm resistance.  If this is not clean of twangy enough for you - change the P90 to a Tele Neck or Strat Neck pup in the same position long with all of the other settings as already stated.  +2db gain on the Bridge pup. 0 gain on the Neck pup, and 0 Gain on the overall Vax output.  Then change your tuning to Open D.

The following is if you have a Line 6 modelling amp or something similar...The amp settings should be something like a Fender Blackface or Twin, Matchless, Roland Jazz, or even the NO AMP setting.  Use the optional SM-57 mic set very close or if you prefer a bit fuller overall sound - the 67 condensor mic, OFF AXIS.

If you have a standard non-modeling amp or effects board, then just fiddle with the gain first with all tone knobs on the amp set to the middle, or 0db if using plus/minus settings, then once you've gotten the initial clean tone you are looking for, then tweak it AT LIVE STAGE VOLUME if you are setting this up to play live.  Big - yet common mistake - by most players is that they do not set up their amp at live stage volume settings and although it might sound great at home, it will certainly not sound the same when turned up even a little bit from how you had when tweaking your patches.

I'll apologize now if you already knew most of this stuff, but I'm just trying to be thorough in my answer to your question in the hopes it might get you the desired results as quickly and simply as possible, no matter how complex this might read.

You will certainly get much more punch from any amp when it is running at a reasonable (not deafening) stage volume.  And you'll find that this clean Vax patch will work very well for squeaky clean to slight growl based on your use of the volume knob while performing as well as the tone.

Lastly - non-modeling solid state amps will punch much quicker than tube amps, but they are also almost always more brittle sounding, so just tweak at stage volume accordingly based on your amp if 100% Solid State or Valvestate.  Tube amps will REALLY punch when the mid/high mid is brought up a notch or two while playing with your stage volume.  And of course they WILL break-up/get gritty much faster than Solid State.

Sorry this is so long to read...but I hope it makes sense and give you or anyone else who reads this some insight on your question and how one of the many ways a very good clean to gritty sound can be achieved using Workbench with whatever amp you happen to have.

All the best,

Neal