Apr 14, 2009 7:09 AM
X3 Live volume pedal problem SOLVED!
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40 Replies
Latest reply:
Sep 28, 2012 9:34 AM by
kotsosdrakos 
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I'm guessing you live in a foreign country and figured you could save some money if you bought it in Las Vegas. You were taking a big risk doing this (emphasis on YOU). It sounds like your volume pedal's sensor isn't working and it needs to be serviced.
A lot of the buttons have had problems on the X3, the volume pedal has been one of the more stable items. It really sucks that you are having that problem, but it looks like your gamble didn't pay off. Go figure, you gambled in Las Vegas and lost... who would've seen that coming
. Now, you're going to have to save up some money and ship it back for service. Or, you're going to have to go to a local service center for you and pay the price. I don't really see any other way out of this for you.-
@ SEPTEMFLOUS ... why don't you offer some useful advice ... and if you're so smart how come you ended up with an X3 Live ?
When I bought mine , I also assumed that I would have years of trouble free service from it ... like I have from my Boss, Art , Korg, Sony and Tech 21 devices. Instead I have spent hours on these forums looking for solutions to basic design faults.
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Hi Randy,
I tried to put the foam half inside and half outside, paying attention to not any light enter and yet to let the metal stem working freely with the optical sensor.
I reinstalled the firmware (actually I went back to first firmware available and then upgraded gradually to the last one, hoping in some bug upgrade-related, since everything was working fine when the X3 was out of the box).
I also went through the calibration routine.
Nothing, I still have the volume not working.
Maybe my unit has a different problem.
I have noticed that the icon VOL on the display is not "squared" (there's not the squared line I see around the other EQ, COMP, etc...), it seems to be inactive (not for a choice, but it's like it were).
Furthemore I always have an asterisk on the left, even if I don't touch anything that could change the patch.
Since it is a common and recurring issue, I wonder why Line6 chooses to be silent about this.
Thanks again Randy, I don't give up!
(uhm, what's the price of a Boss GT10?
)Paolo
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Same Problem, I've a brand new unit and pedal is dead, I tried calibration but the scale indicator stays at zero.
I am quite upset as I 've been reading other people too having this problem. Quality control seems a bit lacky.
Dunno if it's the optical sensors (I'd love those old style gear type pedals) or soldering, but it seems a recurrent issue.
one angry user...
mrn.
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Hi Randy,
many thanks for your post and for the information what kind of optical parts are used for the volume circuit!
My pedal stops working suddenly. Either the volume or wah effect can't be controlled via the pedal anymore. The foam tube around the stem of the volume pedal fits correctly. So I removed the cover and unmounted the small circuit board but left it connected to the main PCB and powered up the board. Carefully, I measured the voltage drop of the receiver while putting my finger on and off. The voltage stays constant at 3.3V which indicates the IR receiver (photo Darlington NPN transistor) is not working. With the information from Randy I ordered both available parts from digi-key (OP580: 365-1162-1-ND; OP580DA: 365-1481-1-ND) because I don't know which part is mounted on the PCB. First I tried the OP580 because the housing color was identical... The OP580DA is bright white but the one on the board isn't.
After replacement, reassembling and calibration everything is working again
Please note: Replacing the part should be done by one how knows what he is doing! SMD soldering could be tricky.
So far I spend a few Euro to get it back working
Greetings from Germany
Alex
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Hi Paolo,
there is no warranty from my side for this method! Because there are many other components (two transistors,... ) on the small PCB which can cause similar problems. Also possible, something is broken on the main PCB...
For sure, it's worth a try
Furthermore, be really careful when removing the part. It could happen when pull off the part from the PCB the solder pad get damaged. Than you need a real expert to fix the broken pad too. I'm a Hard- and Software Engineer so it is my daily job to deal with hardware and a soldering iron and playing with SMD components
Also when you solder in the new component the solder process should not take to long. This could cause a thermal damage of the photo transistor!You really should care about my advice: This should be done by one how knows what he is doing!
Good luck and I'm looking forward to hear from you!
Regards
Alex
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Dear Paolo,
for reference here is the pict
ure of the PCB after repair:- Q1 is the OP580 which I have replaced
- D11 is the OP280(xx)
The red dot in the picture marks the cut-away on the housing of Q1. Hopefully this will help you to quickly locate the part and the right mounting position. I hope, Line6 did not change the components on later revisions so for completeness here the revision marking on my PCB:
P11 POD TNG LIVE PEDAL
35-00-3000-2
JP & JPW
REV B: 06.26.2007
I really don't know why this part stops working after approx 2 years. I didn't spent to much time on reverse engineering the complete circuit but so far I don't see any reason for the defect. It is a little bit difficult because there are more unknown parts on the PCB so my estimated current calculation for Q1 might be wrong. It can't be a mechanical or solder problem - I checked all solder points first of cause...
If there are more people how having trouble with the pedal I can spent more time on reverse engineering but so far I don't see a reason to do this. For me, it is still some kind of mystery.
Regards
Alex
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Dear Marlboro,
it depend on which part is defect of cause
and it is hard to say. I don't know if you are a technical skilled guy which can handle a volt meter...If yes, you should measure the voltage drop directly on Q1 (Pin 1 and Pin 2) dimmed and not dimmed. The easiest way is to put your finger on it and remove it while observing the volt meter in a lighted ambience. If there is any "significant" change (the voltage drop depends on the wave length of the light shining on Q1 of course!), Q1 might not be defect.
I already reassembled my POD so it would take a while to get it back on my workbench but I can do some measurements to provide more accurate values if required. To be hones, it would take me about 2-3 days because I'm very busy to get a software project done right now
.Here the results of the measurements:
dimmed: 0.2 Volt
not dimmed (fully illuminated): 3.2 - 3.3 Volt
Conclusion: The voltage drop is significant and should be measured easily with a standard volt meter. If it is constant at any value the possibility Q1 is defect is high.
Regards
Alex
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So, I'd like to update my earlier posts.
After having substituted the optical sensors with the optek ones, reinstalled firmware and having gone through the recalibration routine, I still have the same *§£&&% VOLUME ISSUE: it doesn't work, and it is not recognized by the software (i can see the icon VOL unselected on the display).
I still hope to find a solution. I livie in Italy, and I bought my unit in NY, so no warranty and difficulties to find an expert who could solve my problem.
Any other clue, guys?
Paolo
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I had the same problem. Read on for my solution (no i didn't throw it off a bridge). However, soldering was not necessary for me.
Hadn't used the Line 6 X3 live for about 3 months. Went to use it, and no sound. don't know if it was humidity in the basement or what. But I was ******. The symptoms/things I noticed/and attempted were these:
- Volume pedal didn't do anything, no sound regardless of where i set the pedal... except... turning on the wah gave full wah volume regardless of where the pedal was positioned. Moving the pedal did not adjust the wah sound, nor did it change volume, as you would expect.
- Foam sleeve was pushed up against the top of the pedal. However, shining a flashlight in the hole did not have any results during calibration (as others have mentioned in this thread).
- Re-cailbrated according to instructions, flashed the system, both with no effect.
Noticed on this thread that people were replacing the optic sensor. Then I thought, "hmmm, maybe an entire board can be replaced instead of going through all that trouble." And it can.
Opened up the unit (voided the warranty). Here's what you need:
- 7/64 Allan key (hex key, whatever they are called these days), metric sizes won't fit. This removes the 10 screws on the back, plus one back screw with the cable holder, and 5 screws on the front.
- Philips head screwdriver. this removes the two screws on the bottom of the unit (these are recessed).
- Removed the pedal with the included hex key. Might not be necessary, i don't quite remember.
- Grounded myself to an earth bonding point with the trusty anti-static strap.
- Used orange sticks to separate the top piece from bottom piece for the first time. For those of you who don't know, orange sticks are little wooden sticks with a sharp end, kind of like chopsticks but stronger. you can get them at most craft shops. Or, you could use a flathead screwdriver and damage the plastic a bit.
- Tested the optic sensor with a multimeter, it was dead. I love it.
The optic sensors are located on a small board. The entire board can be replaced. You cannot get it from Line6, and I couldn't find it online, but if you are friendly with a repair store, they can order it for you (they probably have them in stock as this is a common problem). Cost me $7. Picture of the old board below. The name and part number are clear in the pic. It is a REV F from 2007; I'll bet that they have fixed the problem with a newer REV board since 2007. One connection and screws, takes 2 minutes to replace it. I got an extra from the repair shop, just in case. Be carfeul with the ribbon cable that connects the board, it is easily damaged. For those of you who don't like to solder (like me), this is a much simpler solution for just a few dollars more. Be carfeul not to touch the main board of the unit.
Needless to say, the unit works now. Here's the thing, I've seen a lot of people saying that the foam sleeve is the cause of the problem. that wasn't the case for me (the first thing i tried to do was push the sleve down onto the board to no avail). It makes sense also. The optic sensor is IR I believe, so ambient light should not affect the sensors operation. I think the foam sleeve is just there to allevaite pedal noise when you tap for the wah, but that's just my guess. Mine is outside the hole altogether right now and the unit works fine after replacing the board.
If you need to put the pedal back together, and can't find all the parts, hold the unit upside down and they should show up. there are two plastic washers, a metal washer (I believe) and a nut. don't forget to connect the ground wire when assembling the pedal. I believe it is (from left to right) Nut, plastic washer, ground, then the pedal, then metal washer, and then plastic washer. Not 100% on that though. Sorry, I didn't think to take a pic while I had it open, and it works now, so it ain't being opened again!
Actually, it took longer to get the pedal together than to replace the board!
After reassembly, go through the calibration of the pedal, I also recommend the latest flash. You never know, there might have been an issue with the IR sensor, that one of the flash updates has fixed.
Attachments:-
DSCN4069.JPG (344.7 K)
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Hi
im writing form Bangladesh...
My problem is similar than yours, the volume is always at ZERO.
The pedal calibration procedure doesn't works, always shows 0.
but good to know heres some solution and success story .dont know why line6 silent
i decide if any one ask me for buy any processor then i must be suggest gt10 not line 6
cuz they dont do anything for us at this moment .
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