May 16, 2011 9:08 AM
One foot switch has become unreliable
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Hi,
Foot switch FS1 does not work reliably now after 6 months of use. I have to press it several times to deactivate the FX or activate it.
The HD is still under warranty. Should I return it to the shop?
Thank you.
you need to take it to a service center: http://line6.com/service_centers/
the shop you bought it from may or may not be a service center.
B4 u send it in go get one of those precision oilers and lube the switch mechanism. Has worked twice for me so far...
How do you do that? Do you need to disassemble the unit? Thank you.
No. Just get one of these or something similar to it then oil the the area between the footswitch and the base -
I've kept my two Tonelab SE's alive with various Caig products, and TLSE's are notorious for footswitch problems. I've never had them for years. Preventative maintenance is probably why in that case. However, your switches should not be blowing out yet.
I'd still try some product like that to see if you can coax it back (if it's dirty inside, you can usually get that stuff freed up with a good burst while working the footswitch).
If you take it apart, you will void your warranty. Retail Music stores can't fix them. You are best off to send it to Line 6, and get another one for back up. I have 2 amps and 2 floorboards for back up.... just in case.
@whiteop, do you know where on the web I can buy such a lubricant (I'm in Europe). Thank you.
Is it the same as this: http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Oils-P-T-F-Cap/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=pd_cp_hi_0
If I may suggest -
My "A" switch started acting up a few days after I got my 300. Being the DIY/warranty voiding guy that I am, I took the thing apart.
The switches are tensioned by a small spring that sits in the middle of the switch barrel. There is nothing to hold this spring in place. It likes to get off to one side or the other, thereby causing the switch barrel to scrape across the spring as you activate the switch.This can cause the switch to bottom out against the rungs of the spring rather than against the solenoid switch on the circuit board. The result being that you have to hit it a few times until you get it just right and the barrel slides down the side of the spring, thereby activating the solenoid.
It has happened a few times since the first, and the best "fix" I have found is to flick the switch a bit - not step on it, or activate it, just flick the head of the switch. After a few tries it will put the spring in a place where it doesnt impede the switch action.
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