clay-man Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 Lovely, here we go. So I'm using Reaper, and these past few days, I've been getting these instances where Reaper stops processing/communicating with the POD. The POD is working fine. If I try to start anything related to communicating with the POD it'll crash my computer. Trying to unplug and plug it back in does nothing it doesn't detect that it was disconnected and reconnected. Probably my USB port? Seriously, should I send it in or repair it myself? Anyone ever get something like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjnette Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 It can also be the computer especially if it lacks memory and you are running too many plugins. But that aside a connection that is not on a hub and of course what hurghanico says. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clay-man Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 I disassembled my POD but my Solder Iron wasn't working, so at least I know how to take it apart now. Soldering a USB port shouldn't be too hard. Wish me luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radatats Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 good luck and if you can, post some pics and a description of the work involved... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazzy Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 I disassembled my POD but my Solder Iron wasn't working, so at least I know how to take it apart now. Soldering a USB port shouldn't be too hard. Wish me luck. You can do it, just put your mind to it, focus and before you know it you're DONE. I used to solder microchips with a regular iron years ago it's all feel, kinda like playing the guitar. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clay-man Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 You can do it, just put your mind to it, focus and before you know it you're DONE. I used to solder microchips with a regular iron years ago it's all feel, kinda like playing the guitar. Will a pencil tip solder iron work? I also have a thin lead/tin rosin solder wire. I fixed my Variax piezo with a solder iron once but it was a chisel type iron. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazzy Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 (edited) Will a pencil tip solder iron work? I also have a thin lead/tin rosin solder wire. I fixed my Variax piezo with a solder iron once but it was a chisel type iron. You can use a pencil tip. That's what I use on almost everything except pieces of metal larger than the back of a pot. I used to use giant soldering irons that would be brought up to temp with an oxy/acetylene torch for soldering things like radiator tanks and auto body parts. These little soldering irons feel like toys, lol. Your solder sounds good.I know there's a specific ratio of tin to lead but most available are the correct ratio. The chisel tip could work also if it's not too large. The main purpose of the tip it to be able to get the flat part of the tip flat against the material for better heat transfer, but for the small things we're talking about here it doesn't take much to get up to temp. Use only enough heat to get the solder flowing nicely around all parts then get out of there. I should add that if you feel uncomfortable when get ready to actually take it out and put it in just back off and come back to it and do this as many times as you need to till its done. Sometimes you just have to work like this when working on fine things and when the environment your in is prone to distractions. Edited February 23, 2015 by Brazzy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clay-man Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 You can use a pencil tip. That's what I use on almost everything except pieces of metal larger than the back of a pot. I used to use giant soldering irons that would be brought up to temp with an oxy/acetylene torch for soldering things like radiator tanks and auto body parts. These little soldering irons feel like toys, lol. Your solder sounds good.I know there's a specific ratio of tin to lead but most available are the correct ratio. The chisel tip could work also id it not too large. The main purpose of the tip it to be able to get the flat part of the tip flat against the material for better heat transfer, but for the small things we're talking about here it doesn't take much to get up to temp. Use only enough heat to get the solder flowing nicely around all parts then get out of there. I should add that if you feel uncomfortable when get ready to actually take it out and put it in just back off and come back to it and do this as many times as you need to till its done. Sometimes you just have to work like this when working on fine things and when the environment your in is prone to distractions. Thank you so much for the feedback. It's really going to help. I'm no longer too afraid about disassembling the POD anymore. I did loose 1 spring for the stomp buttons but luckily it still has enough pressure to trigger it, just doesn't make a big click noise anymore. I'm going to practice and watch some soldering videos prior to doing this. The last time I tried I was having trouble getting the solder to melt. Hopefully this new solder iron and solder will fix the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazzy Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 Thank you so much for the feedback. It's really going to help. I'm no longer too afraid about disassembling the POD anymore. I did loose 1 spring for the stomp buttons but luckily it still has enough pressure to trigger it, just doesn't make a big click noise anymore. I'm going to practice and watch some soldering videos prior to doing this. The last time I tried I was having trouble getting the solder to melt. Hopefully this new solder iron and solder will fix the problem. Cool, Tip: If the tip comes loose, as they do after initial use, you'll need to tighten it good. When the tip becomes loose the heat will not transfer correctly which will throw you off. The one shown in the picture of my last post needed to be tightened up real good and after the first time I never needed to tighten it again. Also keep a damp sponge handy so you can keep the tip clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clay-man Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 Hahaha, you know what's the most satisfying sound in the world? Freakin, "Dun dun!" noise when I plugged the usb in the new USB port! I think I got it! Hopefully everything is fixed! Here's hoping! I'll post pictures later! Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clay-man Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 After messing around and checking stuff, I am confident that I received a POD with the USB already in poor condition. Kind of makes me mad since the description was "works perfect". Why do I think this? Because even right when I got it, I was already having problems with Workbench telling me it can't read the Variax anymore. I haven't gotten that once since I replaced the USB. Even before the plastic pole broke on the port I was having trouble with HD Edit not giving me errors on start up about a corrupt patch. Here's to hoping I won't have any more trouble with the USB port anymore, I'm sure I soldered it in pretty nicely. Here's some pictures: Old USB port New port Inside behind the port The ports I bought were cheap but they feel nice and sturdy. The USB cable had a bit of trouble sliding into the port the first few times, which means that it fits snug, which is a good thing. No wobbling around. Even then, the plastic in the port seems to be made out of good durable plastic, hard, but durable plastic, something that won't snap off without incredible force. Hope this topic is helpful to some. If any of you run into this, I highly suggest taking off the top footswitch panel instead of taking off the ribbon cable as it's extremely hard. Just take out the plastic and springs from underneath the button and put them in a container, after that put them back in with tweezers. Cheers. Happy PODing 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazzy Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 Like puddy in your hands, well done Clay!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clay-man Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 Like puddy in your hands, well done Clay!!! Thank you. I was getting the workbench problem again a few times but I guess I just have to live with it. It only happens when it's loading the Variax, nothing else. I flashed my Variax through my POD to make sure it wasn't a communication error, no errors through there. Weird. As long as it doesn't do those DAW/computer recognition drop outs, or corruption in HD Edit I'm happy. Those drop outs was were I crossed the line for sure, I really prefer to use my POD as an audio interface. It's nice to know I don't have to waste more money buying a replacement. I'm going to be more careful getting equipment now. It's why I don't have a JTV yet because I don't want to buy a used one and run into more of this junk. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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