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#21 clay-man

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 09:44 AM

Sleep mode is called sleep mode instead of straight up Off for a reason. Like people said, it's a state of minimalising the power consumption, but not being completely off. This is usually so you can go back into operation without waiting for everything to boot up again, and basically go back to where you were right away.

 

Like people said, you need some power for it to sense it being put out of sleep mode. Basically the reason why it can detect when it's on when you plug a cable in is simply because it's completing the actual circuit to power the guitar when you plug in a cable. That's how all power switches basically work. Just cuts off the power circuit or connects it, which is why it has no power drainage because the power isn't connected to the components when it's off.


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#22 toneman2121

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 10:35 AM

Sleep mode is called sleep mode instead of straight up Off for a reason. Like people said, it's a state of minimalising the power consumption, but not being completely off. This is usually so you can go back into operation without waiting for everything to boot up again, and basically go back to where you were right away.

 

Like people said, you need some power for it to sense it being put out of sleep mode. Basically the reason why it can detect when it's on when you plug a cable in is simply because it's completing the actual circuit to power the guitar when you plug in a cable. That's how all power switches basically work. Just cuts off the power circuit or connects it, which is why it has no power drainage because the power isn't connected to the components when it's off.

he wants to know WHY it drains almost as fast on power save mode as power on mode. either that is the way the circuit is designed or there is a fault in the circuit. it could be that both batteries are bad or the charger is bad. if he got a fresh battery it would eliminate the battery, but i think the circuit is bad. i understand he wants to have it plugged in since he uses the magnetic pick ups 95% of the time and just turn the volume down to engage sleep mode and you can't play without draining the battery at a high rate even though your using the magnetic pick ups. it is a waste of energy. 


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#23 TheRealZap

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 10:47 AM

I do this, by using a pod... the battery is just like a balance weight in my variax  :D plugged up 100% of the time (weeks into months...)

 

i understand he wants to have it plugged in since he uses the magnetic pick ups 95% of the time...


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#24 pheld

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 02:35 AM


I do this, by using a pod... the battery is just like a balance weight in my variax :D plugged up 100% of the time (weeks into months...)


A POD is an expensive power-supply. I won't sacrify my high-end amp-sim-rig for a POD just to power the variax. The problem is solved using an external powersupply and a custom stereo cable. On stage I feed power from a high-capacity-powerpack shared with a wireless transmitter. On top of that I've put Bare Knucle pickups with coiltap using pickup-rings with 2 switches on each ring. 2 switches activate coiltap individually for each pickup. A 3rd switch toggles between split-coils and serial-coils and the 4th switch is connected as a circuitbreaker for the internal battery. That's the best flexibility I can achieve. What remains to be done is a plek-job on the frets, a new (better cut) nut and a set of Gotoh locking tuners which should fit with no modifications.
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#25 toneman2121

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 03:00 AM

A POD is an expensive power-supply. I won't sacrify my high-end amp-sim-rig for a POD just to power the variax. The problem is solved using an external powersupply and a custom stereo cable. On stage I feed power from a high-capacity-powerpack shared with a wireless transmitter. On top of that I've put Bare Knucle pickups with coiltap using pickup-rings with 2 switches on each ring. 2 switches activate coiltap individually for each pickup. A 3rd switch toggles between split-coils and serial-coils and the 4th switch is connected as a circuitbreaker for the internal battery. That's the best flexibility I can achieve. What remains to be done is a plek-job on the frets, a new (better cut) nut and a set of Gotoh locking tuners which should fit with no modification

 

and...?


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#26 pheld

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Posted 02 May 2013 - 12:52 AM

and...?

If you read a bit between the lines it should be hard to understand that my point is that the JTV, with some modifications is an excellent instrument. I wouldn't put that much effort into it if it wasn't. The only thing not mentioned above is that I also may make an effort to refinish the neck with a satin surface.

In summary, what I would recommend the designers to consider for future designs is:
  • Satin neck finish
  • Locking tuners
  • Stainless steel frets
  • A nut that actually fits the neck
  • A bit more effort on the fretwork. It does need fret levelling (manual or plek) which should be unnecessary for a new guitar in this price-range.
  • More emphasis on the magnetic side w/support for coilsplit
  • Supply a 5m stereo cable (signal+power), a short mono patch (signal to amp), and a box to connect guitar+powersupply+amp for battery-less operation.
  • Re-design the variax-circuit so that it has a decent standby-mode, if the guitar still uses an internal battery. Anything less than 90% reduction of the power-consumption in standby isn't up to modern standards. 90% is acceptable, 96-98% is good.
With an external PS there isn't much need for a battery at all, but that may weaken the argument in favour of buying a POD. The only issue above that I can't address myself is the circuit-design, but I would have been prepared to pay a small premium to have had these things done at the factory. With these relatively minor modifications the guitar is no longer a $700 guitar with expensive electronics, but an instrument that can justify its street price without even considering the advanced insides. It's worth noticing that the US-custom model addresses many of these concerns but I'm certain that the Korean factory could improve things considerably at a fraction of the cost.

And your point was?
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#27 toneman2121

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Posted 02 May 2013 - 02:26 AM

was your original question answered?


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#28 toneman2121

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Posted 02 May 2013 - 02:44 AM

if line6 stuff is good enough for steve howe than it's good enough for me


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#29 toneman2121

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Posted 02 May 2013 - 02:49 AM

http://www.premiergu...ris_Squire.aspx


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#30 TheRealZap

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Posted 02 May 2013 - 03:30 AM

  • Supply a 5m stereo cable (signal+power), a short mono patch (signal to amp), and a box to connect guitar+powersupply+amp for battery-less operation.

 

they do sell this... 

but i wouldn't want them to include it... as the price is high enough without including it....

 

they currently include the workbench interface... which is worthless to a pod owner....

i'd rather they left that out and dropped the price 100$ (what they charge for it alone)

the battery is also mostly worthless to me... if they left the battery and charger out they could drop another 100$

pod owners don't need it if they use VDI....

 

in any case... i think they would get more owners by finding ways to reduce the price than they will by packaging it up to fit your needs.

 

more owners means more demand to develop and improve the software and technology.... which would probably address some of your other issues.


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#31 pheld

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Posted 02 May 2013 - 03:03 PM

they do sell this... 

Unfortunately this product (98-034-0105) doesn't seem to be available from European shops. I was looking for add-ons at the line6 site but didn't know I had to dig that far into their on-line shop to find all the variax parts and goodies. Ah well, I've made my own PS-box which work and use a patch that bypass the amp-sim in my rig so I can do without the 1/4"-XLR switch, but it's nice to know that the alternative exist if someone should ask. Thanks! 

 

I agree on the idea of modularisation to keep the cost of the basic product down, but the QC issues (nut and frets in particular) should be addressed at the factory.


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#32 spikey

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Posted 05 May 2013 - 08:03 PM

You could just run your Variax into a Pod HD pro/500 using a Vdi cable and use the unit itself to power the guitar... No battery issues....


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#33 toneman2121

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 02:19 AM

A POD is an expensive power-supply. I won't sacrify my high-end amp-sim-rig for a POD just to power the variax. The problem is solved using an external powersupply and a custom stereo cable. On stage I feed power from a high-capacity-powerpack shared with a wireless transmitter. On top of that I've put Bare Knucle pickups with coiltap using pickup-rings with 2 switches on each ring. 2 switches activate coiltap individually for each pickup. A 3rd switch toggles between split-coils and serial-coils and the 4th switch is connected as a circuitbreaker for the internal battery. That's the best flexibility I can achieve. What remains to be done is a plek-job on the frets, a new (better cut) nut and a set of Gotoh locking tuners which should fit with no modifications.

 

 

You could just run your Variax into a Pod HD pro/500 using a Vdi cable and use the unit itself to power the guitar... No battery issues....

pod is not good enough


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#34 hazydave

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 09:03 PM

It's just the nature of lithium ion batteries. Because the terminals of the battery are connected, there's still leakage from them even if the circuit downstream isn't closed. Even a lithium ion battery sitting by itself loses charge slowly. 

 

That's not really the nature of Lithium-ion batteries. Most formulations have <5% self-discharge per month, which is very good for a rechargeable (standard NiMh cells can drop as much as 30% in a month). In most cases of what seems like self-discharge, it's a "smart" Li-ion battery losing a little power due to its voltage monitor. And there's nothing magical about batteries being connected -- an open circuit is an open circuit, doesn't matter where that open occurs (and yes, I am an Electrical Engineer... CMU class of '83). 

 

So if there's a noticeable drain, that's an indication that something's still powered. Could be the voltage monitor (my JTV-69 arrives tomorrow), I haven't seen the battery, but if there are more than two terminals, those others are usually for monitoring... this is one of the things that keeps Li-ions, which are kind of a tricky technology, from being overcharged or drained. Overcharging can lead to explosions. Draining below safe limits cause a parasitic effect, pretty quickly killing the battery for good. I used to do lots of work with batteries, in robotics. NiMh were more common than Li-ion... much less energy density, but relatively few problems. Same reason Li-ion only recently made it into hybrid cars.... issues. 


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#35 phil_m

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Posted 09 May 2013 - 06:12 AM

Most formulations have <5% self-discharge per month, which is very good for a rechargeable (standard NiMh cells can drop as much as 30% in a month).

 

Well, I'm not really in any position to argue about the actual specs of the batteries, but in my experience most lithium ion batteries seem to lose their charge much more quickly than this. It seems to me that when I charged my spare battery in had in the case for two weeks, when I went to use it, it was less than 50% charged. There's no voltage monitor or anything on the Variax battery itself. Perhaps there is some circuit protection built into the batteries themselves.


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#36 lilguitar

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 04:45 AM

I have to agree with the frustration....whatever the cause. Unplugging the cable from the guitar every time I set it down is not very convenient....it's like my acoustic/electric Taylor, if left plugged in the battery drains. With all the technology built into the 89F, I can't believe they haven't figure this out yet. My iPad has a Li-ion battery and its standby time is infinite (not literally, but it can sit weeks)...the volume knob should be the equivalent of the magnetic cover on my iPad...and work the same to save the battery equivalently.
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#37 spikey

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Posted 27 May 2013 - 05:10 PM

pod is not good enough

 

Why is the Pod not good enough to power the Variax thru the digital cable? It works fine here.... I run my JTV without ever needing to pull the battery out because of this. 

Of course I never try to run it analog only because I prefer the no noise side of things in the studio...


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#38 davidb7170

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 02:30 PM

I use my VDI connection exclusively -- with no battery in the guitar, Have been for about 8 years now -- beginning with my 300 and the XTL pedal -- then the X3L pedal, up to now with my HD500 and my 59 and 69S. Really no problems - out live or practice. I did bugger one end of my DVI cable (must have stepped on it or something) -- had to use the 1/4" jack, and stick a battery in (I keep one in my guitar case). The batteries hold charge for a very long time.-- I just checked mine yesterday -- months since I checked it last -- and still had all LED's indicating full charge. The first thing I noticed was how much I depend on the HD500 to switch the guitar into different models and the mags with the VDI. Besides power -- that ability is vital to me..... I could not wait to get my replacement cable to be back in business... Now THAT's the technology I want in my setup...

 

My 2 cents.

 

Dave


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