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JTV-69 I thought I was happy


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I just can't like the whammy on this thing...I didn't spend enough time w/it when I purchased it

Simple test for me is doing a double stop bend to see if it goes flat which it didn't/check - but after a while I noticed as soon as I rested my hand on bridge, she'd go sharp

So, I'd purchased the superV magnet which for me did nothing - then a luthier installed a trem-set(fender) now, it's rock solid BUT harder to work...not as smooth as before & I noticed on modeled sounds "klunky" as if there's binding w/wires inside...mags are fine

Where do I go from here?

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...not as smooth as before & I noticed on modeled sounds "klunky" as if there's binding w/wires inside...mags are fine

Where do I go from here?

That is a distinct possibility. Depending on how old a build it is, wires catching on things was a problem with the earlier versions of the bridge. At some point they redesigned/rerouted the wires back there. You'll have to open up the back and take a look. I recall some old threads with pictures showing the two different designs. They're old though, you'll have to dig for 'em....

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yes - I remember & bookmarked that I'm sure.(although I don't believe Line 6 "remedied" that, was just the poster that did the fix.

Really, I thought this was rock solid...which it is lol - strong-arming it, he may have added a spring - I just don't attempt S$%^ myself for fear of screwing things up more

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You probably want to look & verify like cruisinon2 suggested, but also your serial number will tell you what year it was made. I got my 69S in 2012 -- it's SN begins with "W12" -- by then they had done the redesign on the cable routing.

 

Dave

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yes - I remember & bookmarked that I'm sure.(although I don't believe Line 6 "remedied" that, was just the poster that did the fix.

Really, I thought this was rock solid...which it is lol - strong-arming it, he may have added a spring - I just don't attempt S$%^ myself for fear of screwing things up more

This they actually fixed. The wires don't wrap around the sustain block anymore, they go straight through it...pretty much solved the binding issue.

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This they actually fixed. The wires don't wrap around the sustain block anymore, they go straight through it...pretty much solved the binding issue.

 

Interesting.  I can't exactly picture that in my head.  Does anyone have a photo of the new arrangement?

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Interesting.  I can't exactly picture that in my head.  Does anyone have a photo of the new arrangement?

I believe they're referring to this (I thought it was just the individual that did this NOT LIne 6

original post by Stevekc I think

 https://www.myflare.com/0/io/hotlink/YPIXs8oREeOMhyICCluF4w/Tyler_Variax_JTV-69_Tremolo_Setup_111030.pdf

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Maybe I'm confused, but those photos appear to show the wires wrapping around the sustain block.  That's basically what my '69 looks like.  Mr. Cruisin uses the word "through" which to me does not apply to that configuration.

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I don't have any pics at the ready, but on mine the leads from the piezos run to a small board on the front of the sustain block. Additional wire(s) go straight through the block itself to the main board in the other routed cavity behind the bridge. The older design had the wires wrapping around the sustain block...there are pics of it buried in old threads somewhere, I just don't have the patience to look for 'em. It was my understanding that they did away with that set-up...

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I don't have any pics at the ready, but on mine the leads from the piezos run to a small board on the front of the sustain block. Additional wire(s) go straight through the block itself to the main board in the other routed cavity behind the bridge. The older design had the wires wrapping around the sustain block...there are pics of it buried in old threads somewhere, I just don't have the patience to look for 'em. It was my understanding that they did away with that set-up...

 

Some pics here:

 

http://line6.com/support/topic/2312-who-thought-this-was-a-good-idea-is-it-broken-string-ends-in-the-vax-guts/

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Maybe I'm confused, but those photos appear to show the wires wrapping around the sustain block. That's basically what my '69 looks like. Mr. Cruisin uses the word "through" which to me does not apply to that configuration.

You are correct. Nothing wrapping around the sustain block...straight on through.

post-1838810-0-26841100-1449616202_thumb.jpg

post-1838810-0-17488000-1449616914_thumb.jpg

post-1838810-0-57241000-1449616931_thumb.jpg

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not mine...it goes around & clip on bottom of threaded trem

 

Hows that tremel-no workin 4 ya Cruisin?

It works. Pretty stable, even when changing strings the bridge stays put. It costs twice what it should, given that from an engineering perspective, it's basically a shower curtain rod. ;) Can't complain though. It works as advertised. I love Strat-style guitars, but I'm so not a whammy bar guy...

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You are correct. Nothing wrapping around the sustain block...straight on through.

 

That's quite a bit different from my instrument.  I wonder when they introduced the design change?

 

I had a MagLok on mine for a while, but after a bit of tweaking and setup it largely stays in tune without it.  Granted I'm not seriously into deep dives, though.

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That's quite a bit different from my instrument. I wonder when they introduced the design change?

 

I had a MagLok on mine for a while, but after a bit of tweaking and setup it largely stays in tune without it. Granted I'm not seriously into deep dives, though.

Wrapping wires around moving parts is destined to not end well...I'm not surprised they changed it.

 

As for the tremel-no, it wasn't a tuning stability problem per se, I just don't use the bar, so why have it float? Plus you don't have issues with double-stop bends with a fixed bridge. It also allows me to drop D physically, as I've found that particular alt tuning to be somewhat less than inspiring.

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Well - as I said before my ser# start W12 - you can see how things are routed...I noticed the luthier had put 2 pieces of wood w/felt as extra protection from circuit, one of them has fallen off - maybe I'm nuts & never checked before but this noise really tickin me off...

Pretty much ALL patches thru phones OR amp, all I have to do is press down on whammy & noise

Attaching pic & dropbox file...I hope - Either tell me I'm worried bout nothing OR that I have a reason to talk w/line 6 please

https://www.dropbox.com/s/iai3itrutuzvr9g/samp.wav?dl=0

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/74uzf29412bof35/IMG_20151209_135653.jpg?dl=0

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Maybe I'm confused, but those photos appear to show the wires wrapping around the sustain block.  That's basically what my '69 looks like.  Mr. Cruisin uses the word "through" which to me does not apply to that configuration.

sorry man...I got it wrong & somehow...even though my ser# is supposedly in "fixed" batch...it aint :(

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sorry man...I got it wrong & somehow...even though my ser# is supposedly in "fixed" batch...it aint :(

I'm not sure there's much you can do as far as re-routing the wires. The sustain block on the re-designed ones are obviously a completely different part. Don't know if the block itself is a serviceable/replaceable part, or if you'd have to replace the whole bridge...

 

Time to consult "The Man"...lol ;)

Good luck.

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I've used and installed the tremsetter on all of my fenders in the past... You can easily adjust the tension on it...

 

I used the tremolo no for the first time last year and it's on my Floyd guitars, it works ok, I have to tighten the set screws really tight at times...

 

I did some dives with my V69 for the first time the other day, it seemed to come back pretty well, but I like my trems tight because I palm mute a lot...

 

The tremsetter I prefer BECAUSE you can adjust the tension...

 

Read the install instructions to adjust it. It can come back to a dead stop, and allows for up pulls too... Just adjust the tension wheels

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I've used and installed the tremsetter on all of my fenders in the past... You can easily adjust the tension on it...

 

I used the tremolo no for the first time last year and it's on my Floyd guitars, it works ok, I have to tighten the set screws really tight at times...

 

I did some dives with my V69 for the first time the other day, it seemed to come back pretty well, but I like my trems tight because I palm mute a lot...

 

The tremsetter I prefer BECAUSE you can adjust the tension...

 

Read the install instructions to adjust it. It can come back to a dead stop, and allows for up pulls too... Just adjust the tension wheels

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