1st "dry fit" of pedal board with my HD500X

[FlyingSquirrel]

1st "dry fit" of my home made pedal board. I used the same case from Rondo Music (CNB PDC-410H SSL Pedal Case - RondoMusic.com) that I had using velcro on the back, but I didn't feel that it was sturdy enough, so I grabbed 3 sheets of 3/8" plywood, used the center one as a perimeter and spacer block piece, now all of the power cables and audio cables will be concealed between the out 2. The open slot next to the Line 6 G30 wireless receiver is for a second one on a different channel. Now, when I switch guitars live, I de-select A, then select B. I'll have a cable plugged into C as a backup.  When all lights on the ABC are off, system is "Muted" before hitting any other audio.  I still have room for another pedal to the right of the FB-2 should I ever decide to add one, ie; Cantrell or Petrucci Wah.

 

I show up to church/gig/rehearsal/session, remove the lid, plug in the power, plug in a mic cable to the D.I. and I'm up and running.

I have a True Tone (Formerly Visual Sound) One Spot 5 cable plug which plugs into the G30's, the Boss FB-2 Feedback Pedal, HD500X, and the Morley ABC switch.  The 5 cable is powered from the HD500X power supply.

 

The entire pedalboard will be powered by one single power supply or "Wall Wart" as they are more affectionately referred. No more multiple "wall warts" on the pedal board.

 

As far as mounting goes, I simply purchased some brackets as you see below, removed the screws from the outermost 4 corners of each pedal, placed the bracket between the screw head and the bottom of the pedal like a washer, then re applied the screw.  I got the idea from these guys (http://www.pedalboardsupplies.com/home.html) The Morley pedal has a different type of bottom plate, and the screws for it mount from the side, so I discreetly drilled holes through the bottom place right through the rubber feet, then screwed it down to the pedal board, then re-applied the Morley chassis, and secured it to the bottom plate.

 

I still have some side sanding to do to smooth out the transition from top/bottom, then I'll paint it black on the top, and on the inside of the rear cover so you don't see bright colored backing in the holes.  I'm also going to use some glow in the dark spray paint on the outer perimeter which is why I have about 1 inch of reveal left.  I did a 3/8" roundover on the top edges so they would stay smooth, otherwise, it'll just get crunched off with the shoe anyways.