I don't play everyday, but when I do it's for about an hour or two. I rarely run it with the Master Volume past 12 O'clock as with the Channel Volume, for now.
I'm gearing up to get Biasing tools so I can be able to check and/or set it when the time comes for power tubes to be replaced. Any comments or recommendations are always helpful.
If the fuse blows what should I replace it with, (value)? I haven't taken it out to look it over. I hope I don't need to but ya never know, it pays to try to be prepared.
I found this info pertaining to what to look for just before it come time to service the amp with new tubes. There's a lot more to the article. If you want to read it all click the link below.
Replace the tubes when:
* It is broken, and/or there is a white spot on the top or sides of the tube. The "getter" coating found in these areas is normally black or silver colored. By the way, a chocolate brown getter simply means the tube has had a lot of use. It still may test good.
* It tests weak or shorted. Always use a "mutual conductance" type tube tester for testing. Cheap emission type testers with "good/bad" meters are almost useless. Always replace a shorted tube, even if it tests good. Shorts can damage expensive amplifier parts.
* You cannot afford to lose your amplifier during a performance. Professional players minimize downtime by replacing the power tubes every few concerts, and by using several amplifiers. The price of tubes is cheap compared to the embarrassment of losing an amplifier on stage!
* The amplifier starts to sound bad, especially when first turned on.
So how do you know when tubes are starting to fail? Consider the following:
Small-signal (preamp) tubes (12AX7, 12AU7, 12AT7, 5879, etc.): You may hear a crackle for a short time after the amplifier is turned on. Then it quiets down. Or the amplifier may "howl" at high volumes, or buzz on certain notes all the time. These problems get worse, and eventually you will be replacing one or more tubes.
Power tubes (6L6, 6V6, 7027, 6CA7/EL-34, 6550/KT-88, etc.): Upon turning on the amplifier, the sound may be hazy, with flabby bass and scratchy treble. After about five minutes of this, the sound starts to clear up, and the amplifier sounds fine from then on. As the tubes get weaker, it will take longer for the sound to clear up. Eventually you have to replace the power tubes as a set. For reliability we strongly encourage you to replace all power tubes at a time, even if one or more tubes are still good. Also, make sure your technician set the bias correctly after they are installed. You may keep any good tubes as spares for emergencies, though.
© Doug Roccaforte