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Best Graphtech Nut For My 600?


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#1 clay-man

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Posted 12 December 2013 - 07:05 AM

Which is the best nut for me to get for my 600? Is there any predefined nuts I can get or do I have to get a blank one?


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#2 Charlie_Watt

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Posted 12 December 2013 - 07:26 AM

I would suspect that a nut designed for a Strat would be right.  That's what I used on my 500. I use an Earvana nut.


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#3 TheRealZap

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Posted 12 December 2013 - 08:53 AM

I had my luthier put a bone nut on mine... he of course fashioned it and set it up himself as in not an off the shelf solution...

but coupled with him doing the complete setup post install, the thing never played better.. rang out, nice sustain... was worth it.

didn't have any trem problems... but i'm not a heavy trem user so i can't speak as to whether it would work for you.


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#4 clay-man

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Posted 13 December 2013 - 06:21 AM

I had my luthier put a bone nut on mine... he of course fashioned it and set it up himself as in not an off the shelf solution...

but coupled with him doing the complete setup post install, the thing never played better.. rang out, nice sustain... was worth it.

didn't have any trem problems... but i'm not a heavy trem user so i can't speak as to whether it would work for you.

 

I specifically want a new nut for trem problems. This plastic one isn't cutting it. It rendered the tremolo system useless.

Another problem I have is that if it's floating, it doesn't return to zero point. I could probably get a Mag-Lok for that.

 

I'd like to be able to use the trem. I'm not a heavy trem user either, but there's thing I'd like to do with it. If it's there, it should be useable. 

 

using the trem with string bends is impossible, and trying to adjust the trem to work without bends is already not perfect and usually goes out of tune on a few strings anyways.

 

My current setup is to basically not use the trem and have the strings stretched out as much as I can between the nut and the saddles so that bends don't make the tuning go out. It works, but what's the point of having a tremolo if I do that?


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#5 TheRealZap

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Posted 13 December 2013 - 06:31 AM

you could always get a roller nut: http://www.musicians...-lsr-roller-nut

 

have you tried something simple like nut sauce: http://www.musicians...uning-lubricant


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#6 hurghanico

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Posted 13 December 2013 - 10:33 AM

an old not bad and very cheap solution is to add some graphite material to the nut by passing the tip of a pencil into its slots..


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#7 eenymason

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Posted 13 December 2013 - 03:48 PM

Hi Clay Man

as a past 600 user, I can feel your pain.

I used the lot - on my 1970 strat I used to be able to get away with using graphite on the nut (it had a brass nut, and it was pretty good), then the last refret it had the nut replaced with a graphtech one. No tuning problems!

I got the 600 as I was a trem user, and tried everything to remedy the problem to no avail. It doesn't matter so much about the nut (I replaced the nut with a graphtech Tusq-X or whatever - easy enough to do, just sand it down on the underside so it's the same height as the one you're replacing). The problem is the poor quality metal where the bridge pivots on it's two posts - mine had badly worn and no way was it ever gonna return to zero.

This gave me the next dilemma - replace the trem or transplant the guts into another body? I believe the original strat trem with six screws securing it to the body is far superior to the commonly found two post system for tuning stability, and this is supported by my resultant transplants (one from a 300, one from a 600) into a couple of cheap ($100 each from pawn shops) SX Vintage series strat copies, with the Graphtech Ghost saddles, and Tusq-X nut installed, giving me as close to perfect tuning as I've ever had, even with heavy trem use.

A bit of work there, but if you're handy with tools, it's totally do-able.

Now will the real Fiesta Red Strat please step forward?Attached File  Screen shot 2013-12-14 at 10.42.20 AM.png   286.58KB   1 downloads


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#8 clay-man

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Posted 13 December 2013 - 07:44 PM

Hi Clay Man

as a past 600 user, I can feel your pain.

I used the lot - on my 1970 strat I used to be able to get away with using graphite on the nut (it had a brass nut, and it was pretty good), then the last refret it had the nut replaced with a graphtech one. No tuning problems!

I got the 600 as I was a trem user, and tried everything to remedy the problem to no avail. It doesn't matter so much about the nut (I replaced the nut with a graphtech Tusq-X or whatever - easy enough to do, just sand it down on the underside so it's the same height as the one you're replacing). The problem is the poor quality metal where the bridge pivots on it's two posts - mine had badly worn and no way was it ever gonna return to zero.

This gave me the next dilemma - replace the trem or transplant the guts into another body? I believe the original strat trem with six screws securing it to the body is far superior to the commonly found two post system for tuning stability, and this is supported by my resultant transplants (one from a 300, one from a 600) into a couple of cheap ($100 each from pawn shops) SX Vintage series strat copies, with the Graphtech Ghost saddles, and Tusq-X nut installed, giving me as close to perfect tuning as I've ever had, even with heavy trem use.

A bit of work there, but if you're handy with tools, it's totally do-able.

Now will the real Fiesta Red Strat please step forward?attachicon.gifScreen shot 2013-12-14 at 10.42.20 AM.png

 

Thanks for the info. I have a problem with the zero-point on my guitar too. I agree the 2 post thing is probably a cause for it, because I wouldn't be surprised when I push down the trem, the bridge gets dispositioned a bit causing it to go out of tune. I'm sure a mag-lok would fix that though.

 

It's annoying having to fix the guitar up when it should be at least decent to use. 

 

I think a tusq nut and a mag-lok would fix it up though. I also might need fretwork because my action is a bit too high for my taste, and it buzzes if I try to push it any lower.


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