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DT50HD Output Suddenly Went Silent, Any Ideas Why? And More...

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#1 Brazzy

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Posted 01 April 2014 - 08:19 AM

Was playing for about a half hour in 50 watt mode, Master @ 50% when the output just faded out. No other noise associated with the dropout, just went silent. Switched the standby on to off to see if that would fix it. No go. Next with standby off I turned master volume down then switched from 50 watt mode to 25 watt mode and turned the volume up to 50% and output was back to normal. So I switched back to 50 watt mode and all was ok.

 

My rig was set up just taking the guitar and going into the front high input with a DT25 Cab. Anyone else have this behavior?

 

Added: This is a sort of journal about my experience with the DT50HD/DT25 Ext. Cab. & HD500.


Edited by Brazzy, 04 June 2015 - 04:07 PM.

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#2 JSilver

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Posted 05 April 2014 - 04:55 PM

My DT25 combo did something similar tonight halfway through a gig! :(  Had to go direct to the PA for the second half of the gig.... I think I will go direct from now on! 

I don't know what it could be with mine... Possibly one of the valves is acting up or on the way out?


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#3 Brazzy

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Posted 05 April 2014 - 06:13 PM

I'm sure we're not the only ones who have experienced this. I kinda think it's a tube thing too since tubes seem to be the culprit most of time. This is the first time I've experienced this and since I haven't had a lick of problem. When this amp is on I'll play for at least 4 hours if not more, some days I'll play pretty much all day, lol. So the hours can add up with me fast.


Edited by Brazzy, 09 August 2014 - 07:20 AM.

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#4 robyone

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Posted 06 April 2014 - 01:29 AM

Hi; have you gave a look at fuses?


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#5 Brazzy

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Posted 06 April 2014 - 05:29 AM

Hi; have you gave a look at fuses?

 

Good question, I haven't looked at the fuses and I don't have any spares either. The reason I haven't is this rig doesn't leave home as of yet so it's not as important 'cause I don't gig with it. I suppose the fuse or a connection within a tube or the circuitry could expand during use and potentially break it's connection and as a mechanic I've seen this happen. This was certainly intermittent I feel it could be the firmware since this amp uses a sort of software for the amp models. It has only happened once in many hours of play and in one session I will have it singing for up to 4 hours at a time and sometimes up to 8 hours before I get tired or bored of playing, lol.

 

 I should add I really like this amp even with minor issues like this 'cause problems can happen no matter what kind of equipment I use. That's my life experience talking.


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#6 wowza

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Posted 06 April 2014 - 06:32 AM

About a year ago right after I bought mine mine went out during a rehearsal but mine certainly didn't go out silently. It just started making a terrible screeching noise. I threw it into standby for a bit turned it back on and it started doing it again. I powered it off for a couple minutes and when I turned it back on I had nothing. I got really worried that my new amp had taken a digger lol. After about 10 minutes being powered off I powered it back on just for thrills and she acted normal like nothing ever happened. I haven't had a single issue since with her. I don't have anything to solve anything but it's like brazzy said I'm sure it's happened to other people one time or another. I dont worry about it to much I'll cross that bridge later if something happens to it.
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#7 robyone

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Posted 06 April 2014 - 10:30 AM

...i have the dt50 212 from about three years now: for the first year all work fine, with hd500 via l6 link, play two or three gig at week in every situation...all work properly, no tube or fuse or other things problems, very satisfied with my rig....after....

i start have problem with strange sounds (sometimes thiny crackling friggin...)

and after fuses

and after tubes

and l6 link stop working (hd500 gone...)....

and friggin a capacitor inside chassis

and so on.....so on

now i use only the power section of this amp (via loop return) or the cabs (connect direct another amp head...)

after that i think the problem in this amp is the preamp section or the interaction between pre and power section...i don t now but surely, for play at gigs, now i use other things.

I am sorry because the versatility and the sound of this thing is awesome, but in terms of reliability.... :blink:


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#8 Brazzy

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Posted 06 April 2014 - 10:58 AM

A couple of hours ago I powered it up and no sound. Tried turning it off and on, resetting, Hi & Lo modes, channel changes, topo and other options still no sound not even the normal noise that comes with the hi gain stages.

I checked to see if the power amp section (fx return) works it doesn't then I looked back there to see if the tubes are glowing and it's cold back there. So I checked the fuses and they're ok. I guess I'm gong to be doing some investigating to see what I can do.

 

A thread about 6CA7/EL34 tubes by Electro Harmonix


Edited by Brazzy, 19 April 2014 - 08:56 AM.

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#9 robyone

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Posted 07 April 2014 - 12:01 AM

have you checked the fuses? ALL the fuses ( two out of chassis and TWO inside?).

I remember one similar problem, a year ago, and the problem was a little fuse inside the chassis....


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#10 Brazzy

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Posted 07 April 2014 - 07:02 AM

have you checked the fuses? ALL the fuses ( two out of chassis and TWO inside?).

I remember one similar problem, a year ago, and the problem was a little fuse inside the chassis....

 

I haven't checked the 2 fuses inside the chassis as I didn't know about them, thanks for the important tip.

 

I was ready to get prepared to service the amp (Bias) when new power tubes needed installing. I had hopes of this amp lasting longer than this (new in Nov 2013) since it is in a climate controlled environment and used about 8 times a month for up to 8 hours a session.

 

What I did so far:

  • Checked fuses on the rear of the amp, OK
  • Replaced the 12AX7's with new originals, OK
  • Removed the power tubes, inspected them and tried each one individually in a Jet City Picovalve, OK
  • Tried all the 12AX7's in the Jet City Picovalve, OK
  • Looked for other signs of burning without pulling the chassis, OK

I might try calling Line 6 if I find myself at dead end.


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#11 Brazzy

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Posted 07 April 2014 - 08:04 AM

I was reading this post and it sounds similar to my problem.

 

 

Thread Link

 

Re: DT50 finally fixed. Here's the steps I took....
by Nick_Mattocks on 2010-12-26 10:01:15

Hi

The front end of the amp which controls the relays would work if the heater circuit fuse had blown.  Obviously the mains fuse is working, and you've checked the 32mm 500mA fuse in the back of the amp (tube protectiuon fuse)  is OK.  The heater circuit fuse is inside the amp chassis, and if this has blown for some reason you won't get any glow from the tubes.  The tubes should all have a faint glow when in Standby as they get heated in this mode to allow the electrons to flow when you apply the High Tension current (HT) by turning the Standby switch to On.  If there is no glow at all (you might struggle to see it in normal light, so it's best to check in a darkened room), it would indicate that the heater circuit isn't working, and a blown fuse would cause this.  It's unusual for the heater circuit fuse to blow, but if one of the tubes had experienced an internal momentary short between the HT side and the heater circuit for some reason the fuse would pop for sure.

It's expected that you will occasionally replace your power tubes as part of normal amp maintenance, and as you may know, replacing the power tubes requires the amp to be re-biased and this requires that the amp be removed from the combo case.  Provided you do this properly and you don't cause any damage, you should not give Line 6 cause to invalidate your warranty - they are more concerned with your personal safety as valve amps in particular can store up a electrical charge which will give you a nasty shock should you touch one of the smoothing capacitor pins and the chassis at the same time.  These normally discharge naturally over a few days.  More importantly tinkering around inside an amp's chassis whilst it's turned on is VERY DANGEROUS and potentially DEADLY if you don't know what you're doing.   However, if you need to check the state of your amp's fuses you have to take the chassis out to take a peek - there is no choice, other than to send your amp back as DOA or take it to a repair centre.

You could update the amp's firmware without the power amp being active.  I always do mine with the amp in Standby.  This is worth a try before you start tinkering with internal fuses.   I haven't personally experienced the firmware causing the amp to go silent and I've probably applied 6 or 7 different firmware updates at least.

Good luck

Nick


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#12 Brazzy

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Posted 07 April 2014 - 08:54 AM

After stepping back and thinking about this, letting things sink in, lol. Tracing my steps back, this problem didn't occur until after I moved the speaker and head. So I may have plugged into the wrong output port (by accident) in the 8 ohm section. I was looking at the back of the amp upside down as I was bent over when I did it. In the future I'm going to mark the correct port with tape so I have no problem when I'm in a bad position. I have a support ticket in progress.

 

Output%20Port.JPG?psid=1

 

I won't mark it solved until I know for certain what the deal is. The amp has been a very good experience for me thus far, I really do like the adaptibility of this amp and am going to keep it.

 

Added: So I found this. The back of the DT50 combo. It's speaker is plugged into the other 8 ohm port. Just wondering what to make of it.

 

DT50%20Combo.JPG?psid=1

 

Asked, someone at Line 6 and he said either 8 ohm jack is ok to plug into when using one 8 ohm cab.


Edited by Brazzy, 25 March 2015 - 04:48 PM.

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#13 Brazzy

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Posted 09 April 2014 - 10:34 AM

Finding it hard to believe that I plugged my speaker into the wrong port 'cause I'm always so careful with this equipment. I remember playing the amp for a couple of hours the night before and the day after the tubes never heated up when turned on so I let the amp sit for a day and then plugged it in with a 16 ohm cabinet into the 16 ohm output and low and behold it worked fine for about 15 minutes on "topo I" and when I switched to "topo IV" it worked for about another 5 minutes and the tubes went cold. I let the amp sit for quite a while to allow it to completely cool and it didn't heat up when powered back on. Then I switched back to the 8 ohm cabinet and all was fine for about 15 minutes approx. when it went cold again. Seems that switching the cabinet impedance gets it to work. Anyone have any input as to why?


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#14 Brazzy

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Posted 09 April 2014 - 12:43 PM

After letting it cool again. I went back at it with the 16 ohm cab and it worked great. I tried all the functions on the front the amp with no problems for about 30 minutes and powered down. Then I went right to the 8 ohm cab and did the same thing for about 30 minutes, having fun playing, changing channels and volumes, etc. Taking a break I powered down for about an hour and when I came back it wouldn't heat up again. Blasted, an intermittent problem. I tried the speaker cab change but no success.


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#15 Brazzy

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 06:39 AM

Hi; have you gave a look at fuses?

 

The two fuses inside are testing good also.


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#16 filtertip

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 12:32 PM

I have just had a similar problem with my DT50.  The only thing that has changed is that I upgraded the firmware on my HD500.  I powered up the amp and then plugged my HD500 in.  A few relay clicks later, the DT50 went silent.  I can just about hear it if I turn everything up full.  Bugger bugger bugger....


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#17 Brazzy

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 01:55 PM

I have just had a similar problem with my DT50.  The only thing that has changed is that I upgraded the firmware on my HD500.  I powered up the amp and then plugged my HD500 in.  A few relay clicks later, the DT50 went silent.  I can just about hear it if I turn everything up full.  Bugger bugger bugger....

 

I guess your still trying to fix it? Have you tried to do the factory reset while powering up on HD500? After a reflash I think it's mandatory that you do this and recalibrate the pedal too. Save you patches before doing this though.


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#18 filtertip

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Posted 23 April 2014 - 02:26 AM

My problem turned out to be cable issues - so absolutely nothing to do with the DT head at all.  Morale of this story is to make sure that you go back to absolute basics when fault finding!  Now I feel a bit dumb but at least everything works..


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#19 Brazzy

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Posted 23 April 2014 - 05:14 AM

My problem turned out to be cable issues - so absolutely nothing to do with the DT head at all.  Morale of this story is to make sure that you go back to absolute basics when fault finding!  Now I feel a bit dumb but at least everything works.

 

Thanks for the tip. I did check the wires and they checked good with the Spider Jam here, also swapped guitars. I don't play like a gigging musician so the equipment I have stays put and no one else uses it. I try very hard to keep this stuff in tip top condition so it works when I want it too. More than a few times I used it for 4 hours took an hour or more break and came back for another 4 hours. Using in conjunction with the HD500 via the L6 Link, plugging in the front, and using the midi all to learn and get a feel for it all.

 

The power tubes are not lighting up for sure but the power light is on along with the dash light. It was acting intermittent, power tubes lit up and would go out so I would turn it off wait a while and come back it work for a bit then it stop working and when I look back the tubes where not lit and cooling. After that I stopped using it, in between I checked fuses, wires, guitars, changed the preamp tubes with new 12AX7 EH's and pulled the power tubes to check them in another amp, looked at the pins, they were clean and carefully put them back in. Power tubes worked in my other amp, but I don't know if that's conclusive.


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#20 Brazzy

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Posted 07 August 2014 - 04:25 PM

Update: I finally got new matched set of original power tubes EHX EL34EH from AMP-HEAD. Also purchased the Dual Bias Tester MPD. Today I pulled the chassis and old power tubes, the preamp tubes were new so I left them in. After installing the tester, tubes, speaker, and warming it up for 5 minutes I set the bias to the magic number 36mA and let it run for another 15 minutes and rechecked. Actual numbers are currently 36 and 32. I didn't switch tubes to see if I could get a better match. Maybe I should try that later. I still need to put it to the test of time but at least it's not doing what it was doing before the tube change. The DT50 Head lives and breathes again. YaaaaaaaaaaY!!

I did notice that the bias pot is very easy to turn and sensative when turned just a little. I suppose that the vibrations from shipping could be enough to actually change the bias adjustment the factory made and rattle the tubes too. When I checked the bias before I touched the bias pot the highest reading was 40mA. I did follow the instructions that were given in a post on the forum and read the instructions provided by AMP-HEAD, I gotta dig that post up now. Here it is http://line6.com/sup...ips/#entry25656.

And Thanks again to all (you know who you are) that are so kind to share useful information on the forum.


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#21 Brazzy

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Posted 09 August 2014 - 07:16 AM

I wasn't really able to play the amp after I did the tube replacement and besides when I got done there was a huge lightening storm anyway. So I played it today for 2 hours straight non-stop and it absolutely sounds great, I love this amp. I'm going to keep a couple sets of EL34EH tubes around for when I need to replace the "Spark Plugs", no big deal really. I'm glad I did it.

 

Pulled the chassis again and tried swapping the the tubes to see if I could close the gap between the 36-32 bias reading but no success it ended up being the same. The Amp sounds great and I continue to use it and have great tone. So I'm wondering if I need a mismatched set of tubes to get an even bias reading and am also wondering if it's by Line 6 design or just this particular amp that the numbers be as they are currently with the ultra matched set of tubes I put in it. Anyone have any expereince?

 

Added March 25, 2015: I read that a matched set has a tolerance of 4mV. If that's the case then the readings I'm getting are fine.


Edited by Brazzy, 25 March 2015 - 05:19 PM.

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#22 Brazzy

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Posted 14 August 2014 - 04:37 PM

Just an update for myself and anyone else interested. After about 10 hours playing the DT50 sounds great. When approx. 8 hours hit I checked the tubes again and switched their positions after a good 15 minutes of warm up I set the bias to 36-34 plate voltage was 498. Looks like the bias gap I had is closing in. Regardless it sounds great and I love it.

 

Added: Since I haven't logged all the hours I put on the original tubes I may have easily put 100 hours on them. I didn't realize how easy it is to put 100 hours on tubes, lol. When you start playing you just get into playing so much you forget about time all together. Especially if the amp is new to you and your learning how to use all the different settings.

 

Mar 25, 2015: Was thinking, I wonder if the amount of time the amp is on is recorded somewhere in the circuitry of this thing? LOL Like a time counter.


Edited by Brazzy, 25 March 2015 - 05:21 PM.

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#23 wowza

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Posted 15 August 2014 - 04:23 PM

I just put a set of jj preamps and a set of jj kt77s in mine and after it was all said and I got like 36.5 and 35.7 out somewhere near there. I haven't had any troubles after the swap so far.
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#24 Brazzy

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Posted 15 August 2014 - 04:48 PM

I just put a set of jj preamps and a set of jj kt77s in mine and after it was all said and I got like 36.5 and 35.7 out somewhere near there. I haven't had any troubles after the swap so far.

 

I don't know much about swapping tubes. Thanks for posting that as I might try something like this in the future. What kind of tone change did you get from the KT77's? Was wondering how much floor noise you get with your DT50 is it dead quiet? Mine has some noise but can only really hear it if you get 4-6 feet in front of the speaker. Doesn't bother me that much as I can't hear it when when playing even at lower volume levels. Was just wondering if it's possible to get it dead quiet at idle. Good luck with those tubes and please let me know "if you can" how they hold up and sound.


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#25 wowza

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Posted 16 August 2014 - 08:21 AM

lol well i don't really either but they said the KT77s are  an EL34 subsitute that aren't supposed to be as compressed.  I just figured i would try it and see how it goes.  They are deffinately punchier than the stock EL34s.  I found that i had to turn the bass down quite a bit along with the DEP controls.  I have been rattling stuff off the shelves in the room my amp is in which never happened at the same volume before.  when you do a quick hit on a chord you i feel the hit a lot more than before.  The highs are a lot tighter than before but im not sure how much of that is the tubes with how cold the bias was set to before the swap. 

 

As far as the noise floor I'm not quite sure how to answer.  The normal hiss isn't bad in my opinion its quieter than it was before but its still there,but since my patches are usually higher gain by the time everything i want is in the noise is understandably terrible.  I usually just have a gate there just to have on while i'm not playing to save my sanity otherwise i turn it off while i'm playing and its not an issue for me.  I know its a big point for some people but not so much for me so i haven't really focused so much on that aspect of the swap.

 

I have maybe 20 hours on them so far, so they are a little young yet but they are still goin strong with no problems. I like them a lot better than the stock EH EL34s but i wouldn't say the differences are night and day.


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#26 Brazzy

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Posted 16 August 2014 - 09:23 AM

lol well i don't really either but they said the KT77s are  an EL34 subsitute that aren't supposed to be as compressed.

 

wowza, Thanks for the input, lol. I think this amps idle is pretty quiet too sounds like yours is the same as mine. Just didn't know how it was for you out of curiosity. I usually end up setting the bass to between 8 and 10 o'clock or even lower sometimes.


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#27 wanderer80

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Posted 03 October 2014 - 06:11 PM

I just had the same issue with my DT25. I power it up, lights come on, tubes light up but no sound comes out. Any ideas of where to start...I am forced to run through my old Fender Twin for a gig now, because I won't have time to get it fixed if it isn't something simple.


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#28 Brazzy

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Posted 03 October 2014 - 06:52 PM

I just had the same issue with my DT25. I power it up, lights come on, tubes light up but no sound comes out. Any ideas of where to start...I am forced to run through my old Fender Twin for a gig now, because I won't have time to get it fixed if it isn't something simple.

 

My DT50 power tubes lit up for about 15 minutes and then went out. Your saying that the tubes in yours are lit and there's no sound. Still could be a power tube though. You can easily change your 12AX7 to see if that is the cause.


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#29 Brazzy

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Posted 24 October 2014 - 04:47 AM

Ok, after quite few more hours on the DT50 Head......this amp works great, man it sounds good .I've been playing around with the direct out lately and am liking it! Nice amp you made here Line 6 Thanks Brothers.

 

Rig.jpg?psid=1


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#30 Brazzy

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Posted 06 February 2015 - 10:41 AM

http://line6.com/sup...i-only/?p=82148

 

I didn't have my amp checked out, there really isn't any qualified repair facilities around me for this amp. I know that sounds strange but it happens. I think this the DT line is too perplexing for the average AMP doctor. How I found out I had issues was by using it. Keep in mind I never owned a tube amp before and I get a DT50 Head to start out, lol.

 

So I read the manuals on it and have experience with a UX2, X3 Pro, HD500 and a Spider Jam. I first noticed in topology III the noise floor was loud enough I could hear it from 10 feet away with my Strat plugged in front.. So I played with it like that thinking maybe that's part of the high gain amp model. It sounded good to me so I jammed away with it for about 4 hours. I had to let it sit for a week or more then fired it back up and noticed a weird noise, but it worked and I played with it 'cause it sounded good to me even with that noise floor on topo III. I played with it for 8 hours straight that day. Most all my sessions with it were for long periods of playing. I continued playing with it for 4 months or so until one day I had weird noise followed by no sound. Looked down at the tubes and no light in the power tubes. I estimated I had close to a hundred hours on the amp at this point. I opened a support ticket and they suggested I take it a service center in the area except that fell short so I continued to find out what I could do to resolve it myself.

 

Then I posted this: Thread  which will take you to the top of this thread.

 

I did my homework and found "AMP HEADS" had the instructions and tool for biasing a new set of matched tubes. I knew I would need to retube it in the future so I made the investment and did the tube job with new tubes that the amp came with, 2 x EL34EH and 2 x 12AX7EH. When I went to bias them I was getting a spread of I think 4 millivolts and I think the tubes were supposed to be the same since their matched so both tubes should have been 36mv except I was getting 32 and 36, which didn't seem right to me. So I buttoned it up and it worked and sounded good and played with it for about 4 hours 'till it went quiet again, looked at the power tubes and no light. I check the all the fuses I could and they were all fine. So I opened a support ticket and got things going. I paid to ship it back to Line 6 in Calabasas,CA., they fixed it up under warranty and sent it back working better than it was when I first fired it up. I'm really very happy with Line 6. :)

 

I suggest if anyone has a question about these amps post a thread and do a support ticket at the same time or you could just call them and ask them.

 

 

They replaced the main board, did TBS 059, and replaced the power tubes is what I was told.

 


Edited by Brazzy, 15 February 2015 - 10:43 AM.

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#31 Brazzy

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Posted 12 February 2015 - 04:20 PM

In case anyone can use this info.

 

Common Parts list:

 

I just recently checked the "parts list" parts numbers on full compass site and the part numbers didn't show when I searched for them on their site. When I order from them I'll send them that list to see what the their customer service comes up with.

 

Here's the tubes and fuses that go with the DT50 HD.

You can purchase these through fullcompass.com

11-02-0003	VALVE EL-34 MATCHED PAIR
11-02-0007	VALVE DT50 APPROVED 12AX7
24-19-0050	FUSE 5A 250V 5MM X 20MM TIME LAG VDE CERTIFIED
24-19-0010	FUSE 1.0A 250V SLOW BLOW 3AG
24-18-1625	FUSE 1.6A 250V SLOW BLOW
24-19-8251	FUSE 8.0A 250V 5MMx20MM SLOW BLOW

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#32 egkor

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 08:27 AM

Wow, as an owner of both a DT50H and a DT25H ...

I have to say Thank You! to all posters with the great sharing of info on tubes, bias tips, issues, solutions, and user experiences.

When the time comes that I have to replace tubes, I will definitely use the info shared in this thread as a guide!

All the data you all share does make a positive difference for the user community.

:)
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Live Sound: Line 6: m20d, 2 x L3t, 2 x L2m 

Variax:  JTV-69 (manuf. 3/2012), Variax 500 (manuf. ~2003)
Guitar Amps:  DT50 Head, DT25 Head, 2-Marshall 1936 2x12 cab (2xCelestion G12T-75)
Modellers:  POD HD500
Other:   Fender Strat HSS, MIM (~2012), Taylor 614ce (2011), Taylor 315ce (2010)


#33 Brazzy

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 08:36 AM

Wow, as an owner of both a DT50H and a DT25H ...

I have to say Thank You! to all posters with the great sharing of info on tubes, bias tips, issues, solutions, and user experiences.

When the time comes that I have to replace tubes, I will definitely use the info shared in this thread as a guide!

All the data you all share does make a positive difference for the user community.

:)

 

Thanks "E"!! If you have any questions just ask. I'm learning as I go here and I have alot of expereince working on "things" that people use everyday and have also have made improvemnets to them by fabricating what's needed, by drafting, machining, welding, burning, filing,etc, etc. No one person knows it all and we're always learning or should be. This is what makes a forum, wheather it be internet or in person so great. Always ask questions when in doubt and be sure of your move forward to makle it count the first time as much as possible.

 

You should look at this thread as one experience. I figured if I post online I can help myself as well as others. Be careful, learn more and Rock On!


Edited by Brazzy, 16 February 2015 - 06:57 AM.

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#34 Brazzy

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Posted 18 February 2015 - 03:09 PM

Ok, So far so good. I've played this amp on low volume mode for 4 hours straight and high volume mode for 4 hours straight and counting. I still need to put more time on it but for now I think it's fixed. The warranty job was a definate must. I'm going to mark it answered but report back.

 

Add another 2 hours for LVM. 10 hours total. lol


Edited by Brazzy, 19 February 2015 - 08:58 AM.

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#35 mtreehugger

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Posted 19 February 2015 - 11:51 AM

Ok, So far so good. I've played this amp on low volume mode for 4 hours straight and high volume mode for 4 hours straight and counting. I still need to put more time on it but for now I think it's fixed. The warranty job was a definate must. I'm going to mark it answered but report back.

 

Add another 2 hours for LVM. 10 hours total. lol

 

Brazzy, how long was your amp gone and how much did shipping cost?


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#36 Brazzy

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Posted 19 February 2015 - 12:55 PM

Brazzy, how long was your amp gone and how much did shipping cost?

 

It took 4 weeks from the day I sent it to the day I received it. They had it for 2 weeks.

Someone else shipped it for me ground UPS fully insured.

If you mearure the girth and weigh it you can find out by calling your carrier.

UPS store wanted 250 for 2 day fully insured, but did it Ground fully insured for 150.

 

Added From: http://line6.com/sup...choice/?p=85247

Good stuff Colonel, Best Regards to your up coming rehersals!

 

Was just on the horn with Line 6 David to ask about the tube replacement options. 

 

I had put new EH tubes in it and my bias reading (32mv~36mv) was 4mv differance between the 2 power tubes, This was just before the amp pooped out due to the warranty issue. He said that the differance was most likely due to problems with the amp and that it should've been much closer, I think he said within tenths of a milli volt.

 

I'll check the bias of the amp soon as I'm starting to rack up some hours on it now. I would've done it right away but I really just wanted to enjoy the toy.


Edited by Brazzy, 26 February 2015 - 09:22 AM.

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#37 Brazzy

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Posted 25 March 2015 - 05:31 PM

Didn't get a chance to check the bias after getting it back from the Line 6. It played good for about 12 hours and pooped out in the same way as before. Sent it back about Mar 3rd and it's still getting the once over at Line 6. Will report back after I get it back or get word.


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#38 RPascarella

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Posted 26 March 2015 - 10:35 AM

Hey, just out of curiosity, when it goes out, is it a slow fade-out?  My DT50 combo is doing that now with a fresh set of EH tubes from Guitar Center.  It has done this off and on for years, but for some reason a lot lately.  It will fade out gently while tone is unchanged, and most of the time it gently fades back in.  Sometimes it won't come back at all until a shutdown/reboot.  I'm beginning to think it may be a 12AX7 tube issue.

 

Last weekend I was determined to find the cause, so I cracked it open.  I noticed if I touched pin 2 of the 12AX7 buffer tube, there would be a noticeable pop sound.  Once the sound faded out completely, touching pin 2 did nothing.  But if I touched pin 2 of the phase inverter, sure enough there was a big pop.  This tells me the 12AX7 preamp tube lost its mind.  I don't have the equipment to fully debug, so for now I swapped the 2 12AX7 tubes and so far I haven't seen the problem, but then again I've only played for about 15 minutes on it.


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#39 Brazzy

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Posted 26 March 2015 - 11:09 AM

Hey, just out of curiosity, when it goes out, is it a slow fade-out? My DT50 combo is doing that now with a fresh set of EH tubes from Guitar Center.

 

My DT would work fine but then the next time I powered up the tubes would not light up thus no sound.

The first time this happened I put tubes in and biased it but then it started to act up with a fast fade out. So I'd let it cool down before trying again. I'd get 15 minutes out of it then it would fade out. After that it would power up but the tubes were cold and no sound. That's when it went to Line 6.

The second time, after the install of a new main board, tsb 059, and new power tubes, I played it for 2 hour increments for 12 hours and the next time I powered up the tubes were cold and no sound so it went back in. Line 6 is where she be currently.


Edited by Brazzy, 08 April 2015 - 09:06 AM.

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#40 Brazzy

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Posted 08 April 2015 - 08:56 AM

Since I've been without my DT50 for a short while I've been playing with the HD500 into a Jet City Picovalve JCA12S+ Half Stack. This little rig sure does sound pretty good and since I've been getting better at using the Pod I make patches in short order. It's only 5 watts at Max but it's loud.

 

I'm not saying it's better than the DT50 but it sure is easy to set up and play. I've even set up some stereo patches using the Spider Jam with Picovalve. Sounds Great!

 

Line 6 delivered my DT50 and I still have to fire it up and put it to the test. I'll be back!

 

I've been busy with computer setup since my 7 year old Vaio AR630E's video card pooped out. Right now I've been trying to sort out an issue with RiffWorks not rewireing Ableton since I had to reinstall everything on a new/old Vaio VGN-CR290.

 

Carry On! Rock On!

 

DSC02781.JPG?psid=1


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