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Variax Jtv 69s Questions About The String Spacing

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#1 drschultz

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Posted 03 June 2013 - 03:17 PM

Hello, I am seriously considering purchasing a JTV69s. My concern is that I just recently tried out a JTV69 (not s) and when I did a simple D chord the high E slid off the neck. I read some topics on the forum about the issue and it seems the a new nut would help the problem. My question is this: Is this still a problem with the JTV69s? Has anyone had this problem on the 69s? Will line 6 cover this issue as warranty? There are a few guitar centers in my area but none have the 69s which mean I have to order it. I do not want to be in the position of ordering sending back and repeating. Any suggestions or help would be great. Thanks! drs


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#2 TheRealZap

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Posted 03 June 2013 - 03:41 PM

they do  cover it under warranty, but i believe that they've addressed it in production, and to my knowledge I've not heard of any s models having the issue.


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#3 davidb7170

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Posted 03 June 2013 - 07:13 PM

I have the 69S, and have not had any of the string slipping off the neck problems reported on other 69 models. I got mine last October, right when they were announced and available - got mine from Sweetwater. They had it in stock at the time, I ordered it on Saturday, it arrived on Tuesday.

 

One thing to remember is the saddles can shift side to side like a strat's, but can be repositioned to an extent -- don't know if that has anything to do with the reported problems, but I noted it when I changed the strings the 1st time... Sweetwater did a good set-up on it, but I always tweak my set-up's to my own tastes on any guitar I get when I put my own favorite brand & gauge of strings on. Height, neck relief, and intonation change from size to size AND brand to brand. My preference is for GHS Boomer 0.042 to 0.010 gauge.

 

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#4 MikeMaben

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 05:16 PM

they do  cover it under warranty, but i believe that they've addressed it in production, and to my knowledge I've not heard of any s models having the issue.

 

Do you know what they did to address the issue ? I"ve had a 69 for 2 weeks and the e slipped off once.

(coulda been me). I don't see how a nut change could fix it cuz it's not slipping out of the nut. I do need

to drop the string height some at the bridge end, maybe that'll help ?

I too would endorse Sweetwater as their warranty and after sales tech support is quite good.


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#5 TheRealZap

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 06:56 PM

I don't have a specific answer, but the answer that I'd heard was that they tightened up the specifications.

even if they told me what specifically changed i'd have gave them a blank stare and said.. "so it's ok now" and that would have been that. :)

 

Do you know what they did to address the issue ? I"ve had a 69 for 2 weeks and the e slipped off once.

(coulda been me). I don't see how a nut change could fix it cuz it's not slipping out of the nut. I do need

to drop the string height some at the bridge end, maybe that'll help ?

I too would endorse Sweetwater as their warranty and after sales tech support is quite good.


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#6 MikeMaben

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Posted 05 June 2013 - 03:40 PM

I don't have a specific answer, but the answer that I'd heard was that they tightened up the specifications.

even if they told me what specifically changed i'd have gave them a blank stare and said.. "so it's ok now" and that would have been that. :)

 

Okeedoke, thanks :)


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#7 stevekc

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 07:43 AM

In my opinion the 2010-2011 era JTV-69 is a pure result of flawed CNC Neck profile design for my needs on a very basic level. You must play 5 JTV-69's of that era to find one that is playable.
Hopefully they fixed this with the current production JTV-69 and JTV-69S

Sorry for the rant - but the whole affair of the early 2010-2011 era JTV-69 "too narrow" Neck width at the Nut is reminiscent of the bread in this famous sandwich
7281680786_3eb5dab79d_z.jpg




Remember I base all this opinion as a long term Les Paul Player.


Variax_Neck_Comparison
Variax_Neck_Comparison_111111.jpg

In my opinion the JTV-69 has really odd geometry. With the wide E-E spacing of 2.1055 inch at the bridge, this leaves only 0.116 inch between the string and the edge of the fretboard at the 12th fret.
When playing, the JTV-69 has a tendency to have the E strings fall right off the edge of the fretboard, making basic hammer on riffs nearly impossible because the string to string spacing at the Bridge is too wide, for the Neck IMHO.


Compare the dimensions to the Jay Turser Strat - which is actually a great playing guitar with ideal geometry with more available fret under the string - .15875 inch between the string and the edge of the fretboard at the 12th fret, compared with only 0.116 inch on the JTV-69.

Another issue is muscle memory - if you are like me and grew up playing fast cross picking riffs on a stock Les Paul / SG, - then a guitar with a wider E-E spaced bridge that is up to 0.1 inch wider than the Gibson can impact your technique and leave you a few missed notes at the gig if you don't adapt your playing style to the wider bridge.



So here is a list of the problems on the JTV-69.

* JTV-69 Tremolo Piezo bridge has a very wide "Strat Vintage" E-E spacing of 2.1055 inch at the bridge.

* JTV-69 Neck above the 5th fret meets my preference for a "Fat" Neck at .92" inch thick, but below the 5th fret the JTV-69 tapers down to a kiddie guitar dimensions being only 1.1612 inch wide at the Nut - I find the JTV-69 neck is just "too narrow" at the Nut for an average adult to play a clean 1st position A7 chord and maintain an open G string. Its rather like they dialed in the CNC machine with the goal of recreating the Neck profile of a '62 Strat - but failed miserably below the 5th fret with a very narrow width at the Nut.

* Then to add insult to injury the stock JTV69 Nut has the string spacing cut just a bit too wide for the neck, the net impact of all the above dimension of the JTV-69 deliver an unplayable guitar, with both E strings having a tendency to fall right off the edge of the fretboard.

* The JTV-69 Floating Bridge never returns to center, due to the various methods Line6 informs World Music in Korea to route the bulky hex cable harness

* it's easy to spot a "problem" early JTV-69 with the bad necks. Find a straight edge steel yard stick and hold it along the edge of the JTV-69 fretboard. Perhaps as a result of over zealous neck sanding at World Music, some JTV-69 fretboards "bow in" at the area around the 7th to12th fret. Stand in front of the guitar and look at the fretboard straight on, and observe the "hourglass"fretboard shape on a problem JTV-69.

After waiting a year, it took Three warranty replacement JTV-69's until Line-6 could locate one with an acceptable straight fretboard for me back in Nov. 2011



I go into all more details of The JTV-69 Tremolo issues which I'm proud it became a sticky on the old Line 6 Tyler Variax Forum
http://line6.com/support/thread/73637

 

JTV-69 Tremolo with color pics step by step instructions (17 page PDF ) here

https://www.cx.com/0...etup_111030.pdf




By Contrast the JTV-59 is a totally different experience, it feels very much like a PRS McCarty or old Les Paul Neck Profile, and I feel right at home.

I added a Bigsby B7 to the JTV-59 and finally I'm very happy.

http://line6.com/sup...with-bigsby-b7/


20130523_022424_zpsff90e2d6.jpg

20130523_022535_zps2a602406.jpg


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#8 phil_m

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 08:21 AM

I have a 2012 JTV69US, and it's pretty much my main guitar any more. I can't say I have any real issues playing on the neck. There have been a few times when the E-string has slipped off the neck up high, but that is mainly a result of me being sloppy. I've had the same thing happen on Strats and a Jazzmaster, for instance. I also don't have any problem playing an open A7 and keeping the G string ringing (I actually just tested this to make sure I wasn't lying). Overall, I find the neck very comfortable.


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#9 stevekc

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 08:23 AM

After waiting a year, it took Three warranty replacement Korean JTV-69's until Line-6 could locate one with an acceptable straight fretboard for me back in Nov. 2011.
I suspect the JTV-69US ( at 3 times the price ) should have a great neck

But today I MUCH PREFER to play my JTV-59 with Bigsby.
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#10 thorneven

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 08:34 AM

Straight fretboards is a problem on most new, in-store guitars I've tried.  Gibson, Fender, Rickenbacker,  many that I've tried.  They just don't make 'em like they used to as far as I'm concerned.  But my 59 is pretty damn close.


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#11 snhirsch

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 04:13 PM

I agree 100% with regard to the JTV-69 neck.  Between the jumbo frets and the pinched string spacing at the nut it was not a lot of fun to play.  After fighting with it for a couple of weeks I swapped in a Mighty Mite Strat neck with compound radius fretboard.  Plays like a dream now with no adverse effect on the sound.

 

Even with the wiring dressed properly and the tremolo checked carefully for binding it would not come back into tune reliably.  My solution was to install a SuperVee "MagLok".  Can't say enough good things about this gadget.  It has a tiny impact on the feel of the tremolo, but makes up for it by ensuring that things come back to pitch right on the button.  Unlike some of the other locking devices I've seen, this one will let you bend upwards.  

 

Two modifications I couldn't live without!

 

So here is a list of the problems on the JTV-69.

* JTV-69 Neck above the 5th fret meets my preference for a "Fat" Neck at .92" inch thick, but below the 5th fret the JTV-69 tapers down to a kiddie guitar dimensions being only 1.1612 inch wide at the Nut - I find the JTV-69 neck is just "too narrow" at the Nut for an average adult to play a clean 1st position A7 chord and maintain an open G string. Its rather like they dialed in the CNC machine with the goal of recreating the Neck profile of a '62 Strat - but failed miserably below the 5th fret with a very narrow width at the Nut.


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#12 spmartin

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 09:36 AM

I am considering changing the neck on my JTV-69s. Do you think there would be any problems if I were to change the scale length of the new neck to, say 24.5". If it is in tune, the modeling should not be affected, should it? Thanks in advance for your thoughts.


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#13 bob1474

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 10:03 AM

Hi- JTV69-just replaced the stock neck (rosewood) with a neck from a Variax 600, which I always liked. No mods needed. Plays like a dream now and intonation is spot. Haven't had a chance to play the JTV with the stock maple neck. Anybody know if that neck is different than the regular stock neck ?  (closer to 600 style?)


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#14 Charlie_Watt

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 04:20 PM

My JTV69S neck is just the way I like it.  String spacing is spot on and centered.  Very playable.  I prefer it over my Strat neck.  Mine is fairly new from Sweetwater in late August.  I had to do a little adjustment to the string heights and the Low E intonation was off a bit but I sort of expect a new guitar to need a setup.

 

Scale length is a big deal to some folks.  You can change the scale length if you change necks but you need to stay with a scale length that suits your taste.  For me I do not like the shorter scale lengths that you find on many Gibsons.


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#15 jackoloki

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Posted 14 July 2014 - 09:23 AM

I inadvertently posted the following on the JTV-89 board:

 

First of all, I am neither knowledgable about guitar construction, nor guitar set-up. I bought my US JTV- 69 in 2011 without any understanding of how to analyze the integrity of it's construction. It appeared to be very well made, and it still does. There wasn't a rough edge to be seen. 

 
Upon first receiving it, I didn't even plug it into anything. I just wanted to see how it felt in my hands; how it played. As I played it, I noticed the E string would occasionally slip off the edge. I didn't think it was a problem with the design, but more a deficiency in my technique. I'm not a great guitarist. I silently vowed to clean up my playing style.
 
Then I plugged the guitar into my HD500 and was appalled at the heinous, digital-garble sound that was being produced along with the intended tone. It was only noticeable when I played near the middle of the neck. I posted my problems somewhere on this board (probably archived now). No one else seemed to be having the same problem, but suggestions regarding further set-up prompted me to take it to my local Guitar Center (it had already been set-up by Sweetwater where purchased). The guy at GC, who has years of experience, set it up, but failed to actually plug it in to an HD500 (they had a Pod XT family unit). Anyway, it sounded good in the store as I played it through the XT unit (string still occasionally slipping), but when I got home and plugged it in to the HD500, the heinous sound remained.
 
I related my problems to a recording engineer friend of mine. He asked me if I could detect any string buzz at all. I didn't think there was, but after listening very closely, I could hear it. He said that, while buzz is not an issue on normal electrics, some DSPs don't process string buzz very well. He said if I eliminate the buzz, the problem would probably go away. So I took it to a different (veteran) guitar specialist, lent him my HD-500, and asked him to do what he had to do to eliminate the string buzz, and to then test the guitar on the HD500 unit. When I got it back, it sounded great. The action, however, was way higher than I was comfortable with. And the string slipping was worse than ever. Completely frustrated, and depleted of funds (having spent $4000 by this time), I set the guitar aside and proceeded with my current recording project using other guitars.
 
Over the past two years or more, I have only occasionally picked up the guitar. Every time I play it, I get this sick feeling in my stomach. I hadn't been on the Variax boards and wasn't aware of the fact that the slipping was a common problem and that there was a 'fix'. However, a few days ago, I picked up the guitar and actually noticed the difference between the two distances: that of the top E string and the neck, as opposed to that of the bottom E string and the neck. The bottom E has almost HALF the clearance. I also noticed that the strings do not center over the pickup magnets: they ride low. I thought that maybe it was a problem with the neck being slightly off kilter, and that if it angled upwards more, the new nut position would cause the strings to reposition more and more, the closer they got to the highest fret, finally centering the strings where the neck ends. This, I believe, is the reasoning behind the nut 'fix'. The problem with this 'fix' is that, at the nut, the strings are perfectly positioned on the neck. So, the problem can't be with the nut.
 
Then I took some measurements of the bridge, and noticed that it is not where it should be. Following the lines of the neck, the bridge is positioned about 1/16" lower than it should be. The pick-ups are in-line, but the bridge is not. Additionally, the bridge angles slightly; it isn't parallel to the frets (not as big of an issue, as the intonation can be adjusted to correct this).
 
So, in my opinion, the problem with the design JTV-69 is that the holes for the bridge were drilled in the wrong place. 
 
Any suggestions on how to proceed?
 

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#16 TheRealZap

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Posted 14 July 2014 - 09:32 AM

I would recommend opening a support ticket: http://line6.com/company/contact/

some of the models with neck issues were replaced under warranty (IIRC), I've not heard of any USA models with the issue...

but support will be able to advise, as they would be more likely to hear about the issue than us on the forums.

 

 

I inadvertently posted the following on the JTV-89 board:

 

First of all, I am neither knowledgable about guitar construction, nor guitar set-up. I bought my US JTV- 69 in 2011 without any understanding of how to analyze the integrity of it's construction. It appeared to be very well made, and it still does. There wasn't a rough edge to be seen. 

 
Upon first receiving it, I didn't even plug it into anything. I just wanted to see how it felt in my hands; how it played. As I played it, I noticed the E string would occasionally slip off the edge. I didn't think it was a problem with the design, but more a deficiency in my technique. I'm not a great guitarist. I silently vowed to clean up my playing style.
 
Then I plugged the guitar into my HD500 and was appalled at the heinous, digital-garble sound that was being produced along with the intended tone. It was only noticeable when I played near the middle of the neck. I posted my problems somewhere on this board (probably archived now). No one else seemed to be having the same problem, but suggestions regarding further set-up prompted me to take it to my local Guitar Center (it had already been set-up by Sweetwater where purchased). The guy at GC, who has years of experience, set it up, but failed to actually plug it in to an HD500 (they had a Pod XT family unit). Anyway, it sounded good in the store as I played it through the XT unit (string still occasionally slipping), but when I got home and plugged it in to the HD500, the heinous sound remained.
 
I related my problems to a recording engineer friend of mine. He asked me if I could detect any string buzz at all. I didn't think there was, but after listening very closely, I could hear it. He said that, while buzz is not an issue on normal electrics, some DSPs don't process string buzz very well. He said if I eliminate the buzz, the problem would probably go away. So I took it to a different (veteran) guitar specialist, lent him my HD-500, and asked him to do what he had to do to eliminate the string buzz, and to then test the guitar on the HD500 unit. When I got it back, it sounded great. The action, however, was way higher than I was comfortable with. And the string slipping was worse than ever. Completely frustrated, and depleted of funds (having spent $4000 by this time), I set the guitar aside and proceeded with my current recording project using other guitars.
 
Over the past two years or more, I have only occasionally picked up the guitar. Every time I play it, I get this sick feeling in my stomach. I hadn't been on the Variax boards and wasn't aware of the fact that the slipping was a common problem and that there was a 'fix'. However, a few days ago, I picked up the guitar and actually noticed the difference between the two distances: that of the top E string and the neck, as opposed to that of the bottom E string and the neck. The bottom E has almost HALF the clearance. I also noticed that the strings do not center over the pickup magnets: they ride low. I thought that maybe it was a problem with the neck being slightly off kilter, and that if it angled upwards more, the new nut position would cause the strings to reposition more and more, the closer they got to the highest fret, finally centering the strings where the neck ends. This, I believe, is the reasoning behind the nut 'fix'. The problem with this 'fix' is that, at the nut, the strings are perfectly positioned on the neck. So, the problem can't be with the nut.
 
Then I took some measurements of the bridge, and noticed that it is not where it should be. Following the lines of the neck, the bridge is positioned about 1/16" lower than it should be. The pick-ups are in-line, but the bridge is not. Additionally, the bridge angles slightly; it isn't parallel to the frets (not as big of an issue, as the intonation can be adjusted to correct this).
 
So, in my opinion, the problem with the design JTV-69 is that the holes for the bridge were drilled in the wrong place. 
 
Any suggestions on how to proceed?

 


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#17 psarkissian

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Posted 22 July 2014 - 07:59 AM

Hi Stevekc,

 

Sort of correct, it wasn't CNC with the neck width.

It was the fret edge spec in earlier 69's. Was never

a problem with the "S" versions.

 

What was the serial number of the guitar in question?

If it's an "S",.... maple-on-maple, or rosewood-on-maple?

 

 

BTW, enjoyed servicing that 59 with the Bigsby bridge.


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#18 psarkissian

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Posted 22 July 2014 - 08:10 AM

spmartin,

 

Any affect on changing the neck and scale would be in the area of

tuning and intonation. If distance from nut to bridge changes, there

could be problems in that aspect of it.

 

I don't know what the affect on warranty support that would have.

Depends on how much affect it has on interfering with the normal

function of the guitar. Check with Line 6 support on that.


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#19 clay-man

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Posted 22 July 2014 - 03:15 PM

they do  cover it under warranty, but i believe that they've addressed it in production, and to my knowledge I've not heard of any s models having the issue.

 

I've seen a review of a 69s saying they had the problem.

 

I want a 69s black & maple so this will be an issue. 

Does buying a used Variax void the warranty?


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For a minute there, I lost myself.

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#20 TheRealZap

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Posted 22 July 2014 - 04:13 PM

i doubt that a used one would have any warranty...

possibly if the previous owner gave you the original receipt...

but i think that'd be a judgement call for someone other than myself.

I've seen a review of a 69s saying they had the problem.

 

I want a 69s black & maple so this will be an issue. 

Does buying a used Variax void the warranty?


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#21 psarkissian

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Posted 23 July 2014 - 08:04 AM

The maple-on-maple necks are a smidgeon different contour than

rosewood-on-maple,... or at least it feels that way.

 

Some prefer the maple-on-maple, Some prefer the rosewood-on-maple.

They each feel a bit different.

 

All the 69S guitars should have the current fret edge spec, so high-e slip

should be kept to a minimum. It's odd that there would be high-e slip on

a 69S with that fret edge spec that it has. Unless there's something else

going on there.

 

I own a JTV-69 with the old fret spec, the only time I get high-e slip off is when

my technique is sloppy at that moment, otherwise it's no problem for me.


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#22 clay-man

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 02:26 AM

The maple-on-maple necks are a smidgeon different contour than

rosewood-on-maple,... or at least it feels that way.

 

Some prefer the maple-on-maple, Some prefer the rosewood-on-maple.

They each feel a bit different.

 

All the 69S guitars should have the current fret edge spec, so high-e slip

should be kept to a minimum. It's odd that there would be high-e slip on

a 69S with that fret edge spec that it has. Unless there's something else

going on there.

 

I own a JTV-69 with the old fret spec, the only time I get high-e slip off is when

my technique is sloppy at that moment, otherwise it's no problem for me.

 

I like maple. It feels smoother, easier to slide on, it looks amazing.

 

What would cause a slip anyways? Just doing a lot of vibratos? Usually the top 3 go down, the bottom 3 go up when doing it so it shouldn't slip off.


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For a minute there, I lost myself.

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#23 cruisinon2

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 06:58 AM

I like maple. It feels smoother, easier to slide on, it looks amazing.

What would cause a slip anyways? Just doing a lot of vibratos? Usually the top 3 go down, the bottom 3 go up when doing it so it shouldn't slip off.


An improperly cut nut or poorly dressed frets...either one could place the strings too close to the beveled end of the frets causing either E string to slip off. Wouldn't need much vibrato, if any, to make it happen.
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#24 psarkissian

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 07:49 AM

In this case with the early 69's, it was a fret edge bevel thing.

The 69S models came in after the revised fret spec was implemented,

so the 69S has the newer and current fret dress specs.

 

I have no problems with the old spec neck that I have on mine. I do

strings pulls and the "chicken scratch blues" thing every now and then.

It's been okay, string slip is rare with me.


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#25 stevekc

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 09:21 AM

Line6 JTV-69 Specs state the Nut Width is 1 5/8" inch ( 1.6250") Here is the "too narrow" Nut Width of my 2010 JTV-69 (1.6150")

1406222173_2061039557_P1020173.JPG

 

 

Here is the Nut Width of my 2006 Variax 600 ( 1.6515") 

1406222117_663079811_P1020223.JPG

 

 

Here is the Straight Fretboard edge on my 2006 Variax 600

1406222024_1584175661_P1020185.JPG

 

 

Here is the "Bowed - curved inward Fretboard edge on my 2010 JTV-69 - (Which Line6 Warranty replaced back in 2011 with a Guitar with a straighter fretboard edge.) Problem here was the Low "E" was always falling off the edge of the fretboard , due to lack available fret under the Low E string below the 5th fret !  For New Buyers - its this specific view you want to check on your Tyler JTV-69(s)  - verify the guitar for consideration has a Straight Neck that looks more like the Variax 600 Neck above 

1406222016_703839145_P1020180.JPG


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#26 clay-man

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 12:05 PM

Line6 JTV-69 Specs state the Nut Width is 1 5/8" inch ( 1.6250") Here is the "too narrow" Nut Width of my 2010 JTV-69 (1.6150")

1406222173_2061039557_P1020173.JPG

 

 

Here is the Nut Width of my 1996 Variax 600 ( 1.6515") 

1406222117_663079811_P1020223.JPG

 

 

Here is the Straight Fretboard edge on my 1996 Variax 600

1406222024_1584175661_P1020185.JPG

 

 

Here is the "Bowed - curved inward Fretboard edge on my 2010 JTV-69 - (Which Line6 Warranty replaced back in 2011 with a Guitar with a straighter fretboard edge.) Problem here was the Low "E" was always falling off the edge of the fretboard , due to lack available fret under the Low E string below the 5th fret !  For New Buyers - its this specific view you want to check on your Tyler JTV-69(s)  - verify the guitar for consideration has a Straight Neck that looks more like the Variax 600 Neck above 

1406222016_703839145_P1020180.JPG

 

Yikes. Also what do you mean 1996? You mean 2006?


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#27 stevekc

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 01:03 PM

Sorry - yes - 2006 Variax 600 (not 1996) 

 


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#28 psarkissian

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 03:55 PM

There is a +/- tolerance, of which, if my calculations are correct (some

metric to linear converting),... the 0.01 inch is well within the tolerance

range by almost a whole decimal place.

 

Comparing a Variax 600 to a JTV is an apple to orange comparison,

and so isn't really all that valid beyond general comparisons between

old vs new product.  Apples vs oranges,...

 

The problem with the high-E slip had to do with the fret edge dressing,

which was addressed wit a newer fret edge spec.

 

All of which was covered in forum postings two years ago, when the current

fret spec was rolled in.

 

The 69 in that photo looks like the old fret spec,... from 2011?


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#29 Charlie_Watt

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 04:08 PM

I like it narrow!


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#30 LibertyA

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 08:39 PM

Wow!! This is a great post. 

 

I can tell you that I got my first Variax JTV-69 a month back in June 2014, and I got it home and noticed immediately that there was an issue with the way the nut was cut and the dressing on the fret edges at the high "e" string. My technique is very good, and I have been playing for over 30 years professionally. String would slip off the edges constantly, and interestingly enough it started primarily at the 5th fret to the 10th fret, and sometimes at the second fret when playing D chords. I can tell you that I have the same problem with Taylor acoustic guitars, the high "e" is cut way too close to the bottom edge for my playing preference. 

 

IMG_3592_zps6419a634.jpg

 

Here's the thing.. I got such a good deal on my first one that I didn't think I would ever be able to return it and replace it easily. When I went into the store to purchase it there were 4 JTV – 69 (Tobacco Sunburst) and 5 JTV – 59 (Cherry Sunburst) I played all of them, and i can tell you all the JTV-69's had issues (BTW I really dislike Tobacco Sunburst guitars) . At the time I picked the very best one that was in the store. I took it and had it setup hoping that would fix the problem. It didn't. I finally resigned myself to the fact that I wasn't going to be able to keep this guitar and I took it back to the store two days before the receipt was no longer valid. When I got to the store I found that they had a brand-new red JTV-69 in stock. The neck on this one was completely different. The nut was cut MUCH better, and needed much less setup.

 

 

I can tell you out of all the JTV – 69 guitars I played that first day, every one of them was different. The thickness of the neck, the way the nut was cut, and the way the bridge was placed on the body. But to be honest I think the the service engineer moderator is correct. The way the medium jumbo fret edges are dressed was and is horrible!!! I should tell you all that I hate medium jumbo frets!!! Way too big, and I would've never bought this guitar if it didn't do so much. I can also tell you that the frets were slightly lifted all over the fretboard of the guitar. That required me to have all the frets filed down to make it playable. 

 

If this guitar was a one trick pony like most guitars are, I would've thrown in the fireplace and burned it. But, for the price I paid for it ($499) it's amazing NOW!!!

 

IMG_3674_zps08138def.jpg


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#31 clay-man

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 09:50 PM

This is the problem with used ones on the internet, you can't tell if it has the problem or not. 1.4k is INSANELY expensive though, but it's either that or risk getting a crap setup guitar.


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#32 Charlie_Watt

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Posted 25 July 2014 - 04:48 AM

Many in stores are probably actually several years old.  You're more likely to get a newer one from a volume online seller like Sweetwater.  They even publish the serial number of  all of the guitars they sell.  Mine was made in 2012 even though I bought it from Sweetwater in mid 2013.  My frets are not bad and the strings are very well aligned on the neck.   I could tell in some of the pictures they posted that some of the necks needed adjustment because the strings were not lined up on the neck well.


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#33 cruisinon2

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 11:52 AM

All JTV69 neck issues, be it simply a preference for a slightly wider nut, or to cure string-slip issues, are easily solved with a modest investment in a Warmoth neck, or any other replacement that is built to Strat neck pocket specs.
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#34 psarkissian

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Posted 28 July 2014 - 07:31 AM

Sounds like Charlie got one with the later fret edge spec.

 

Oddly enough, a wider nut would bring the strings out closer to

the edge and make the problem worse.

 

cruisinon2 have ties to Warmoth? ;)


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#35 cruisinon2

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Posted 28 July 2014 - 11:46 AM

Sounds like Charlie got one with the later fret edge spec.

Oddly enough, a wider nut would bring the strings out closer to
the edge and make the problem worse.

cruisinon2 have ties to Warmoth? ;)

Aside from being a happy customer, I have no ties to Warmoth whatsoever. IMHO, they make quality stuff at reasonable prices.

And while I do not proclaim to be an expert, the idea that a wider nut will make the problem worse really doesn't make any sense. How do 7 and 8 string guitars function then?

If the neck is wider, the nut is wider. String spacing will vary accordingly, but the E strings shouldn't be placed any closer to the ends of the frets than on any other properly built guitar in the universe. Otherwise every wide neck guitar on earth would suffer from this problem. I have a custom piece I commissioned years ago with a very wide and nearly flat, almost classical radius...wider string spacing than any production guitar I've ever owned, and neither E string has ever fallen off the fretboard.

Unless of course you meant slapping a wider nut on the stock JTV neck...but who in their right mind would do that?
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#36 TheRealZap

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Posted 28 July 2014 - 11:51 AM

pretty sure that's what he was referring too... and he was essentially agreeing with what you say here.

 


Unless of course you meant slapping a wider nut on the stock JTV neck...but who in their right mind would do that?


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#37 psarkissian

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Posted 28 July 2014 - 12:27 PM

"Unless of course you meant slapping a wider nut on the stock JTV neck...

but who in their right mind would do that?"--- Precisely, you hit the nail on the head. :)

But then, I've come to expect that from you.

 

Unfortunately, there are modified JTV's that come across my bench all too often with

mods that should have never been done, including mod' or 3rd party nuts, or backwards nuts.

 

As a result, there are maybe four people besides myself (and Tyler's people), in all

of North America, that I trust, to do mods on a JTV,.... and not mess it up.

 

And the user names here I recognize as a savvy bunch. :)


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#38 cruisinon2

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Posted 28 July 2014 - 01:04 PM

"Unless of course you meant slapping a wider nut on the stock JTV neck...
but who in their right mind would do that?"--- Precisely, you hit the nail on the head. :)
But then, I've come to expect that from you.

Unfortunately, there are modified JTV's that come across my bench all too often with
mods that should have never been done, including mod' or 3rd party nuts, or backwards nuts.

As a result, there are maybe four people besides myself (and Tyler's people), in all
of North America, that I trust, to do mods on a JTV,.... and not mess it up.

And the user names here I recognize as a savvy bunch. :)


Lol...backwards nuts. Takes all kinds I guess.

As far as dealing with the "brains" of the guitar, there are few with any experience at all I'm sure.

But the neck, if it were not for the hole spacing, would be a drop-in replacement. Any half-way sentient luthier...if they succeed in making a living wrenching on guitars, should be able to handle it without too much drama.
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#39 psarkissian

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Posted 28 July 2014 - 01:27 PM

"But the neck, if it were not for the hole spacing, would be a drop-in replacement.

Any half-way sentient luthier...if they succeed in making a living wrenching on guitars,

should be able to handle it without too much drama"---

 

Most definitely. :)


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