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Dream Rig is finally here...! Let's hope is a dream and not a nightmare... lol


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Hi guys

 

After a few weeks of the grid because of a nasty cold I'm kind of back… Still recovering...

 

A few good news...

1. I have made progress in a few fronts with this dream rig starting with the JTV69 that after using the "Nut Sauce" is working almost 100%

It still goes out of tune a bit but not as much as before… Looking forward to find the cure 100% to it but I can perform like that for now.

 

2. I'll be using a Bose L1M2B2 for my one band band show and I'm happy to tell you guys that I think I finally found a great setup except for a HUM that I need your help to figure it out how I get rid of it.

 

I'm coming out of the L2T to a channel in my Bose Tonematch console and it sounds exactly the same as the L2T which is what I was looking for BUT…
there's a nasty hum that I need to get rid of… I tried a transformer XLR to 1/4" adapter going into the console but no luck the hum still there.

 

 

Any help as to what I would need to get rid of this hum? Options?

Basically that's all I need now so I can finalize this long journey with this dream rig and finally start giggin'

 

 

thanks a lot to everyone that help me out from the beginning, I'm liking this system a lot for my one man band show

 

 

Now please help me out get rid of this nasty hum once and for all

cheers,
Charles

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After looking into this setup I found out a few other things….!

1. If I go out of the L2T into the Bose console the signal is way hotter than going XLR out of the HD500x directly into the bose console

2. The sound is a little different going direct to the Bose console but not that much so i might be able to get rid of the L2T and save some $.

 

3. The thing I like about having the L2T is that I have a dedicated guitar monitor in front of me plus what's coming out of the Bose system makes it sounds HUGE…!

 

So that's it…. any pointers?  :P

 

cheers,

Charles

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1. If I go out of the L2T into the Bose console the signal is way hotter than going XLR out of the HD500x directly into the bose console

 

 

 

First and foremost, thank you for your enthusiasm! Makes me want to revisit my gear, and work on music again; I have been musically dormant for a few months now. So for that, I thank you. :)

 

This may have been mentioned in previous replies; not certain - but be aware that the XLR outs from the HD500x are always Left and Right; they will not sum to mono. When you L6Link to the L2t, it is combining the left and right audio signals - twice as much audio as just sending a single XLR from the HD500x.

 

It sounds like the 'hum' issues you are having are ground loop related - though it's hard to tell. Make sure ALL devices are plugged into a single power strip, plugged to a single wall outlet source. For example, if you currently have the Bose mixer and speaker rig on one power source, and the L2t and HD500x on a different outlet / power source, you are most likely introducing a ground loop, which would cause that type of hum.

 

From what I can tell, you have at least five devices all needing their own power, and they are mix of 2 prong and three prong grounded:

 

1. L2T three prong power cable

2. HD500x power supply

3. T1 power supply

4. Bose L1 power supply

5. Bose Bass speaker power supply

 

Connecting all of that to a single power source, should in theory help elminate ground loop hum. If you have already done that, and still get hum, then perhaps the noise source is not power related.

 

I have a few of the same components; I've just tried rigging them in different ways, to sometimes more, sometimes less success. I don't have any of the Bose gear, but I do attempt to run a Line6 M13 in the HD500 stereo FX loop, while also using a VoiceLive 3 vocal processor which needs a 1/4" cable from the guitar to pitch track for harmony vocal effects, to determine what key the song is in.

 

I also used to attempt to run a tandem 1/4" and VDI from my JTV, adding a bunch of analog effects - for the most part, I have done away with that idea. Too many damn pedalboards! Ended up letting the other guitarist I jam with borrow a bunch of those pedals (mostly Keeley) and let him borrow a spare pedal board, and my Line6 G5 wireless. Sort of defeats the purpose of having the VDI options to then try to muck about with all that extra complexity~ And the floor space it was taking up was starting to be a bit of a joke. SO, I slimmed it down, then proceeded to not play guitar for three months...  Lol!! Well, looks like I will be hauling the gear out tomorrow after work, and see what I can come up with.

 

I also use the L6 M20d from time to time, so I will attempt to simulate a similar rig to what you have, by putting the M20d and one of my L2t speakers in place of your Bose rig, and then running the HD500 L6link to my other L2t, as you described, as a dedicated monitor.

 

I guess if I was doing it as a one man show with my rig, I would run the HD500x using both XLR cables into the M20d, and set up one L2t as a floor monitor with both guitar and vocals, and use the other L2t as my "main" speaker.

 

I also have a DT25, but I will leave that out of the calculations for now. I suppose if I was using that, I would do it similar to what you are doing, with the rig being:

 

JTV > HD500 > L6link to DT25 > XLR out from DT25 to> M20d mixer > L6link from M20d to L2t main > l6link to L2t monitor

 

Thing to consider there, as Radatats pointed out, is the distinction between mic level and line level. Take a look at the settings for your input channels on the Bose. In this case, the DT25 puts out a MIC level, not line level signal. I think Radatats is correct, in that the L2T is sending a LINE level signal, which if the input channel is not expecting, could also be overloading the channel and causing hum. 

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Hi guys

 

radatats

You are correct the out of the L2T is labeled +4 but it's an XLR output… Old schooler here… lol

 

 

Colonel Forbin

 

Glad I can contribute positively 

After all the help I received here that's the least I could do

 

I will go ahead and attached the whole rig to one power source and take it from there.

That might kill the hum… Why I didn't thought about that… lol

 

Would love to see pictures of your setup

Sounds like you can have a lot of fun with your system...

 

 

thanks again for your help

 

regrds,
Charles

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Sounds like you can have a lot of fun with your system...

 

Yes indeed! I am really impressed with the L2t speaker system. Quite versatile. I had been using the DT25 in the more stereotypical sense of , I am playing electric guitar, should be using an electric guitar amp. But did struggle with getting the JTV acoustic models to work well with the DT25; there are several various threads in the past about people coming up with work arounds to bypass the amp modeling when using JTV acoustic tones. 

 

What piqued my interest with your thread, is the idea that the L2t can be used to great effect to achieve that electric -and- acoustic in one speaker / amp; and it has an XLR out. I am thinking I will have to try that idea with my rig, and see what happens. It will be interesting to see how the M20d reacts to getting an XLR line level from the L2t, vs the mic level signal from the DT25.

 

In general, my back pain / chiropractor related issues became the most predominant factor in which pieces of gear and in what combinations would get moved any amount of distance, IE, to rehearsal or to stage.

 

Our drummer *was* going to be selling his house, so we cleared out all the electric rigs and haven't had a place to set up the PA and such since earlier in the year. Looks like he is going to take his house back off the market until next March, so we'll likely be getting back to the full rigs / electric setups this autumn and winter.

 

What I can say about the M20d that I like, is the programability - and the recording features. Multitrack recording option is awesome, works really well.

It's also cool to be able to dial in a full band 'scene' and recall that preset; sometimes we use more gear, sometimes less, so it's always pretty simple in terms of setting up from scratch too. A bit spendy, I can't justify the expense to folks on a casual basis - but if you can score one used, or on a good sale, floor model, etc, might be worth checking out. Definitely a different use of the L6Link feature; though with the full Bose rig you already have, doesn't make a ton of sense to spend $2k on the M20d, then need to drop another $2k on additional main / monitor L2 / L3 speakers..

 

The L6link really does some magic going from the M20d to the downstream L3/L2 speakers in a way that is a good bit different from the HD50 to L2/L3 link connections.

 

What got me thinking most, after reading your posts, was the feature of the L2t when L6linked to an HD500, to save the speaker mode! I think that is really cool. 

 

The acoustic presets would want to be that full range type sound, and the electric guitars might prefer a more electric guitar amp type tone. I know the DT25 XLR out has a 'cabinet' / 'mic' emulation of some sort; when L6linking from the HD500 to a DT25, it automatically defaults to the 'combo poweramp' output mode,which disables the mic / air modeling being generated by the HD500. Supposedly, the transformer tapped out from the DT25 put the 'air' back into the signal, making it PA friendly.

 

For example; try this test:

 

connect your HD500 directly to your Bose rig, dial in an electric guitar sound, etc. Then, in the HD500 programming, switch your output mode from Studio/Direct, to Combo Poweramp, or Stack poweramp. It will likely sound 'worse' to your ears; it's usually a bit 'bees nest' sounding, especially with higher drive and gain setting or using distortion. It really prefers, when connected like that, to be in Studio direct.

 

One thing I am not sure of, is how the L2t will sound, in a similar situation. IE, when messing about with the HD500 output modes, while also messing with the L2t speaker modes, which are best suited for electric guitar, in a way that sounds good both in the L2t which is L6linked, and also through your Bose system, taking the XLR from that L2t, into your Bose rig.

 

Which is why I mention, doing that output mode test, so you hear the distinction between output modes when the mic model is on or off.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys

 

Just ordered the nut sauce so hope it will cure my JTV69 tuning problems...

 

I have 2 other questions...

 

1. Is there a place I can get acoustic guitars presets?

I know I can get presets for the HD500X but how about any presets for acoustics… anyone?

 

2. Could you guys let me know the right way to setup the 500X with the L2T?

I just want to double check that everything I did was right just in case I missed something like input impedance settings etc...

 

thanks again

cheers,

Charles

 

Hi Mastersonics

 

I started a thread a few months ago about Q2 when I got my L3m. It relates to an HD500 not HD500x but the principle is exactly the same. Hope it helps.

 

http://line6.com/support/topic/8144-what-are-the-recommended-settings-for-an-l3m/

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Hey guys,

 

Do you know if there's a way to control each output with a separate volume knob?

I need to control the L2T and the send to the Bose L1 Tonematch mixer separately.

 

Is it possible from the HD500x?

 

I have the L2T as a monitor/amp in front plus I send a signal to my Bose L1 Tonematch console and would like to control both with individual volumes.

 

thanks,
Charles

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I have a DT Dream Rig that I've had now for about a year. The JTV had faulty circuitry such that after needing to send it back a third time to the factory I pitched a huge b*tch on the phone and they send me a brand new one. Works perfect, no troubles after 3 months (knock on wood). Tuning is rock solid. even with moderate tremolo use. (I keep the tremolo plate flush to the wood of the guitar just tight enough to keep flat when I bend the g string up a whole tone). I play with tens, and tune a half step down.  

 

I also glued a wooden shim in between the tremolo block and the wood of the guitar to prevent the whole bridge/trem plate from popping out of the bridge posts when changing strings.

 

My DT shipped with the bias way cranked. I went through two sets of tubes within three months (back to the factory both times) before L6 service finally adjusted the bias correctly and now it's sweet as honey. 

 

By itself the POD is pretty simple to use, but as a switching hub for a dream rig, it can be a right motherf*cker untill you figure out all the gain staging options and configure it correctly for your exact setup. It's not at all intuitive, and there are some peculiarities that you have to put up with. The owners manuals are not at all comprehensive. The forums are an excellent source of help, better than tech support imho. 

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Thanks for the great info jegler

 

I think I got some nice sounds so far but you hit it in the head about the cumbersome available info

They should make a IDIOT PROOF step by step in order to get the right gain stages etc...

All the videos they make during the year why not make a simple video on how to setup from scratch

and make all the options available with detailed videos and what they do to affect the end tone etc…!

I'm having a bad time with the JTV69 going out of tune and it sucks because I love the neck but at the same time

I'm having problems with the L2T so much that I'm still thinking in returning the unit and get a Kemper direct to my Bose L1 Model 2

I will mostly be using this system on my one man band show thru the Bose system, that's it
On my other band I'm the lead singer and don't play any instruments so that's why I need a compact rig like this that just WORKS for the sake of mankind

My hopes are low because I don't want any problems with the equipment down the road like any professional musician wants.

Especially since this DREAM RIG never been gigged and it's been sitting in my climate control perfect power music room...

 

 

So it's either: 

 

1. Take a risk and keep this "DREM RIG" or

2. Get a Kemper/AXE FX with a PRS P22 or

3  Keep it simpler and get the PRS P22 with a Tech 21 FlyRig 5

 

 

cheers,
Charles

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi guys

 

Hppy to say that I'm keeping the dream rig
I bonded with the JTV69 even though I need to send it back to be setup because of the tuning problems.
I love the neck on this thing… First time I bonded with a super strat style guitar. I'm a PRS wide fat type of guy.

 

I would like to ask you regarding the output type and pan control on the mixer.
 

Right now I have tried both ways [<100/100>] and prefer the oomph that panning it to the center [0/0] [Guessing Mono] on the mixer gives me.
I'm going out from the L2T into the Bose T1 mixer on my Bose L1 system
I can also go out directly from the HD500x stereo and maybe pan it <25/25>… options options…!

 

Any recommendations on which way would be better or you guys had great tonal experience? 


thanks for your help

regards,

C

 

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If you go just into 1 amp (with path A and B out) and then with both paths into the mixer, you'll get a 6dB boost compared to leaving the mixer at [<100/100>].

You always get left/right signals out of the mixer, idependent of your mixer settings. But if you never use a stereo effect before the mixer you'll always have the same signals on left/right mixer out.

I never had a need to boost the amp output (or A/B effect chains) with the mixer. Channel Volume always did the trick to adjust the output level to optimal strength for low DRIVE settings.

Personally I use the mixer almost exclusively at the very end of my effects chain and to lower the output signal to level DT tones that use different DT amp configurations (there is a 19dB difference between softest and loudest).

I think the 'oomph' is really just a 6dB rise in output level and does not change tone unless you are already close to maximum signal strength and cause some clipping by increasing output by up to 6dB (depending on how much you move the sliders to center).

If you have a computer and a DAW or other SW displaying input signal strength via USB (or other measuring device), it is pretty educational to see what levels you get after each model. My persoanl guideline is to keel peak levels always below but close to -12dBFS for optimal signal strength and lowest noise transfer. My first step in every tone is to adjust my first effect so that the output level follows that rule of thumb. Also interresting to start with an empty tone (amp disabled) and just add a tone neutral boost (e.g., Studio EQ) to get the signal strength up and listen to your pure guitar sound.

If you want to do this with the DT as an amp I recommend a tone where you use Path A to select the DT power amp configuration but then mute Path A in the mixer and use path B to carry the gain staged guitar signal to the DT. In this setup there is no preamp model because the DT thinks it gets the preamp modelling from the HD but the preamp model is muted in the HD mixer. I found that listening to your guitar like that is very educational and lets you pick a guitar sound that is as close as possible to the final tone target your aming for.

Good luck,

Martin

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If you go just into 1 amp (with path A and B out) and then with both paths into the mixer, you'll get a 6dB boost compared to leaving the mixer at [<100/100>].

You always get left/right signals out of the mixer, idependent of your mixer settings. But if you never use a stereo effect before the mixer you'll always have the same signals on left/right mixer out.

I never had a need to boost the amp output (or A/B effect chains) with the mixer. Channel Volume always did the trick to adjust the output level to optimal strength for low DRIVE settings.

Personally I use the mixer almost exclusively at the very end of my effects chain and to lower the output signal to level DT tones that use different DT amp configurations (there is a 19dB difference between softest and loudest).

I think the 'oomph' is really just a 6dB rise in output level and does not change tone unless you are already close to maximum signal strength and cause some clipping by increasing output by up to 6dB (depending on how much you move the sliders to center).

If you have a computer and a DAW or other SW displaying input signal strength via USB (or other measuring device), it is pretty educational to see what levels you get after each model. My persoanl guideline is to keel peak levels always below but close to -12dBFS for optimal signal strength and lowest noise transfer. My first step in every tone is to adjust my first effect so that the output level follows that rule of thumb. Also interresting to start with an empty tone (amp disabled) and just add a tone neutral boost (e.g., Studio EQ) to get the signal strength up and listen to your pure guitar sound.

If you want to do this with the DT as an amp I recommend a tone where you use Path A to select the DT power amp configuration but then mute Path A in the mixer and use path B to carry the gain staged guitar signal to the DT. In this setup there is no preamp model because the DT thinks it gets the preamp modelling from the HD but the preamp model is muted in the HD mixer. I found that listening to your guitar like that is very educational and lets you pick a guitar sound that is as close as possible to the final tone target your aming for.

Good luck,

Martin

 

 

Hi Martin

 

I don't have a DT amp

I have the L2T and you lost me.

 

C

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K, you can forget 2/3rds of what I wrote.

The 6dB boost when moving L/R to center stands.

Enjoy your L2, I am thinking about getting 2 of them in the future and track what you guys figure out

Martin

 

Hi Martin

 

To be honest I wasn't motivated at the beginning after reading a few horror stories etc…

But after trying it I was sold… The whole reality is visualizing it as a final PA processed guitar sound.

Once you visualize it like that and trying it in a band setting I was sold.

The whole secret or weapon is using the L2T… Is that good….

Plus pairing it with a JTV guitar there's nothing out there that can touch it.

 

I just need to know the optimum setting regarding panning and I'll be set

thanks

 

C

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  • 4 weeks later...

The beauty of the Dream rig especially the L2t is how it works with the JTV Acoustic patches.  I have been chasing FRFR for 15 years the L2 makes it a reality.

 

Start off as a minimalist.

 

Select the JTV acoustic guitar you want I really like the acoustic - 5.  Play it with out any other effects.....not bad huh..........Adjust the mixer I usually have mine about 6 db.

 

First thing that I notice is the bottom end is real boomy.  I added, Post effect, an eq effect and set the 75 hz filter to -6 db,  my point the bottom end needs to be adjusted, use your ears.  Everything else was flat.  Play it again.  This should really sound good.  but dry. 

 

Take you pick of the many reverbs, I like a plate..........play and adjust the mix, on the verb,  until you are happy.  Now play it, it should be great.  Notice if you play the guitar hard the sound doesn't distort.  if You need it louder turn the amp up, (You have 400 watts)  It is my observation that an over processed acoustic will distort when playing aggressive.  

 

Lastly,  one of the most difficult things to do is balance a setlist, so that you can easily go between patches with ease.  I always set my acoustics first then reference every other patch to the acoustic.

 

Enjoy.

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my 2cents..I also have the L1 mod2 Bose - I just ran straight from xlr out of POD500 to T1 mixer (studio direct) - now I have the DT 25...amazing tones, but for my single - I'm positive I'd run straight into mixer again...can't beat that acoustic sound thru the Bose

 

I ALSO just got my 2nd variax - 69 that...well - salesman is waiting on the whammy...lol - but the tuning was fine on it but I'm STILL have ordered the mag-lok

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TSUKuuKHEgE#t=137

 

dunno which is gonna come 1st

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