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Spider Valve HD 100 Quit Working. Curiosity Got the Better of me...A Little More Help Please???
by thelgren on 2009-12-21 19:23:14

Ok, So I had a post erlier asking about my hd 100 quitting. I got tons of info, thanks to all who replied, Nick Mattocks especially, thanks bro, i went ahead and opened it up and found a fuse blown, but of course it wasnt either fuse you can access from the outside. It was in terminals marked CL3 and CL4 with the markings underneath it " B+ fuse F2 T1AL Slow Blow. Can anyone tell me what this is for, what may have caused it, and how to get a replacement? I am guessing Radio Shack or somehwere, but just want to make sure i get the proper item. also i would like to figure out what had caused it to blow in hopes of preventing it from happening again. thanks again to all who responded last time and thanks to all who will respond this time. I cant wait to get jammin again!

Also, in an unrelated note wouldn't it be sweet if Line 6 offered an aftermarket part to change the LED color on the front of the head?

Re: Spider Valve HD 100 Quit Working. Curiosity Got the Better of me...A Little More Help Please???
by Nick_Mattocks on 2009-12-22 00:56:17

Hi Jesse

That fuse looks to be in the HT circuit of your amp.  I can see one end is attached to what appears to be a rectifier circuit used to convert AC to DC (I can see four diodes which I'd guess appear to be arranged as bridge rectifier and the fuse connects to the positive end of one of them).  The copper strip in the circuit leading to the fuse appears to be fairly wide which means it needs to withstand the current it's carrying.   I can also see the bases of a couple of your output tubes and the copper circuit strip appears to be making its way towards or away from the output tubes.  As it's only your output that's affected and the heaters in your output tubes appear to be working, it's more than a fair assumption that this fuse conveys HT current/voltage to your output tubes.  A fault in one or more of your output tubes would definitely cause this fuse to blow.  Replacing the fuse alone, may yield a result in that you can play your amp for a short while, but my very strong feeling on this is that it will blow again in a fairly short time.  It may be a one off - but I somehow doubt it - fuses blow for a reason and that reason is ALWAYS too much current.  You may have had a blip in your mains power supply which caused it to peak.  However, in reality I would say with a high degree of certainty in my own mind that your output tubes (at least one) are running out of spec because of a fault that was not evident at the factory - it may have been shaken too much in transit or it may just be a dodgy valve, and as a result a fault condition has developed.  You almost certainly need to replace your output tubes - all four - with a decent electrically matched equivalent set AND you'll need to get your amp biased at the same time.  You may as well replace the two 12AX7 tubes (the small ones) whilst you're at it IMO, but this isn't necessarly a 'must-do'.  Really - seriously - unless you have a death wish - unless you have the proper test equipment to hand and know exactly what you're dealing with here, don't mess with biasing your amp - one slip and pooofff!!! , you could need a new amp designed by Line 6 to use with your electric harp    Do you like hospital food BTW? - just in case you happened to get lucky.

OK - you asked about the markings on the fuse, and yes pretty much any decent electronics supplier such as Radio Shack (used to be Tandy here in the UK until they became more of a toy shop and disappeared from the high street - Maplin in the UK is a good alternative IF you live in the UK that is - which of course you don't )

Your fuse markings = F2 T1AL

There should also be a voltage rating on there somewhere if you look around the silver ends of the fuse itself.  This will be expressed in volts - e.g. 250v ~ (or AC)

F2 = the second fuse in the circuit as per the design of the amp - not significant - you just need to replace Fuse # 2

T = 'Timed' or 'slow blow' - designed to absorb the initial surge when you flip Standby 'ON'  - important that the fuse you get is a T or slow blow

1A = the rating of the fuse wire inside the fuse.  This fuse can withstand current up to 1 Amp after which the current will be too much and the fuse wire will simply heat up and melt thereby breaking the circuit to protect both you and the amplifier

L = Low Breaking capacity or 'glass' as opposed to 'H' which would be High Breaking Capacity or 'ceramic'

The fuse in your picture appears to be a 20mm type - this is the length of the fuse (I probably didn't need to write that, but for completeness.... LOL)

It's a bog standard fuse, but take it with you to the electrical/electronics store where someone will be able to supply you with the correct item.  Get a pack of ten - they're only coppers to buy.   I'd get a set of matched output tubes whilst you're there and find a reputable amp tech who can bias your amp correctly for you.

Whether or not these tubes should have blown so quickly is another matter, and one that you need to take up with your supplier and/or Line 6.  I'm not sure of the initial quality of the tubes Line 6 use at their Chinese factory where the amps are assembled, and whilst I have no doubt that Line 6 will have specified that tubes known to be good enough to do a decent job should always be used, the actual tubes are probably generic in origin rather than being the absolute best (based on simple economics) and it could be that the supplier had a faulty batch.   Whilst I do think the problem you have is probably nothing more or less than a faulty tube or tubes, you should really get the amp checked out properly under warranty at a Line 6 repair centre to be certain that there's nothing else wrong.  I 'think' the warranty period from new on tubes is three months, but I have to say I'm not 100% sure on that


Re: Spider Valve HD 100 Quit Working. Curiosity Got the Better of me...A Little More Help Please???
by thelgren on 2009-12-22 04:45:01

Wow, thanks again, Nick.

Thanks for the very thourough explanation. I really appreciate it. I would like to change and bias my own tubes howerver i am missing a few things; Knowledge, experience, equipment and a deathwish- as you put it..ha ha! I would like to learn some day to be able to do thing like this but i feel like starting on my new line 6 valve head is a bad choice. I sm going to learn though...eventually.

A couple more questions if you dont mind....

1 ) One thing my wife noticed, when i was playing and it quit she remembered that we had a dip in power - the washer, dryer, dishwasher were all runnung - this happens on occassion here and also it will happen from time to time with nothing running. we are way out of town and our electricity is not 100% reliable. Could a drop in voltage have caused a spike in current causing it to pop? or what that have popped the mains fuse?

2) all the tubes were glowing and all had an equal glow - one was not brighter than the other - does this give any indication to their being ok or not?

3) in this condition, with this fuse out, is it ok to use the head - just the processor with the direct out? Is it feasible to hook up a bypass switch to kill the power amp section and be able to use just the signal processor? that would be a great feature for a head with such a good fx processor...

4) Would i potentially cause any further damage if i just replace the fuse and try again? I know fuses almost always blow due to a problem though...

5) Do you reccomend one tube over the other for this? currently it is using Sovtek 5881/6L6 WGC's

Thanks again man,

PS: I don't like hospital food...

Re: Spider Valve HD 100 Quit Working. Curiosity Got the Better of me...A Little More Help Please???
by Nick_Mattocks on 2009-12-22 13:31:04

Hi Jesse

I have to admit that it's very unusual for power tubes to die so young, and given your amp isn't even out of nappies (sorry - don't you call them diapers? LOL what kind of a word is that? ), it is quite odd.

The fact that you live in an area where the power can fluctuate could have a bearing on why your amp's fuse popped certainly, so yes I'd agree that replacing the fuse is not a bad idea.  If the power fluctuations are fairly regular occurrences it might not be a bad idea to get a power conditioner capable of supporting the amp by smoothing out those nasty lumps in the mains supply.  I have experienced power brownouts/surges that have caused fuses to blow throughout the house including an internal one in the TV and the rectifier circuit in the TV - that's when I lived in an old house and the supply, like yours was a bit unpredictable - it wasn't the TV that was at fault BTW but something else.

Yes I think a power spike could have caused the HT fuse to pop without necessarily taking the mains fuse down.  The HT fuse is the one that draws most current through it internally at least.  The mains fuse probably has a bit more headroom

No I don't think you'd cause any further damage by simply replacing the fuse.  The thing about the fuse is that it's there to blow if things aren't right, so as long as you put the right value fuse in there - same as the old one, it will either work for you or it won't and it will blow if it needs to to protect the amp.  If it does blow pretty much straight away, then you probably do have some tube damage, even if ity takes twenty minutes to blow.

With no fuse, the output tubes aren't going to get any juice, but just leave Standby off - the preamp out will still work - it's designed that way for silent recording.   So yes, I think you'd be safe enough running just the pre amp into your recorder or another power amp.

The tubes glowing evenly after the HT fuse has popped doesn't really indicate anything except the tube heaters are working.  What would have been useful to know is whether or not one of the tubes glowed very red before the fuse popped.  That would have indicated that something was possibly wrong with the tube or with the supporting circuitry

Now if it turns out one of your tubes isn't too happy, I don't know what Line 6's policy is on removing two of the power tubes from your head like some Marshall 100w head users do to reduce the output power to 50w, but in the case of the Marshall users, they would simply remove the outer two EL34 valves so that one in each pair remains.  You have two pairs of tubes in there now, so effectively removing one from each pair keeps things in balance.  I'm sure users of other manufacturer's amps have done the same thing too.  Most valve output stages are fairly similar in their basic operational concepts IME.  Component values may vary but if you are using 6L6 valves in your design, the way they are wired isn't going to be a million miles away from how a Mesa or Fender amp's output stage is wired if it also uses 6L6's - now of course 6L6 valves do come in a number of different guises with some being capable of handling and outputting more power than others.  Supply voltages are going to be different, but not that different as a 6L6 needs a certain voltage on the HT side to start working at all.   I'm definitely not recommending that you try it BTW without first checking with someone from Line 6 first, but IF one of your tubes has gone down, it might be a way of you being able to use your amp over the Christmas break albeit a bit quieter - but just in the house that shouldn't be a problem.  It's just a potential solution, and I'm just putting the thought out there for you to ask the relevant people at Line 6 directly whether it's a feasible solution because to be honest I wouldn't want to say one way or the other.

I don't have any particular preference in terms of replacement tubes.  I would suggest simply replacing what's in there already with the same make/model but from a reputable dealer who has actually tested and matched them.  Others on this forum have some very definite opinions on what's good and what's not and they do know what they're talking about - SpaceATL for one.  I mentioned in a previous post that I'd swapped out the valves in two of my Marshall amps for JJ EL34's - highly recommended, but TBH they were cr*p and caused problems in both amps despite proper biasing, so I will not use JJ's again - period.  The cheaper but branded EL34's I did put in have been absolutely fine.

Biasing your own amp is undeniably a good skill to have, but you do need to know what you're doing and you do need the proper kit.  You can get special valve bases which sit between the sockets and your valves and which are designed to help you do the job safely - but they aren't cheap.  There is plenty of info on this forum from users who have biased their own Spider Valve amps.  It's good info on the whole and worth reading.  It's still risky whatever, but if you read up anything you can find on the subject - just Google it and you'll find everything you need to know and you'll be able to sort the nonsense out from genuinely good advice.  There's no harm finding out about it - you don't have to do it at all if you don't want to or you don't feel ready.  If and when you do decide to give it a go, it's not something to take lightly obviously, and I would place your order at the local hospital canteen BEFORE you start work LOL.  seriously - and I think we're on the same page here - DON'T even think about attempting it until you DO know what to do and how to do it safely.


PS - since when's 'a couple' meant five? LOL

Re: Spider Valve HD 100 Quit Working. Curiosity Got the Better of me...A Little More Help Please???
by thelgren on 2009-12-22 19:36:49

Ok Nick, I'm changing your name to Johnny, as in Johnny on the spot with the answers! Thanks for your very thourough and helpful responses. Im guessing you do this for a living? I replaced the fuse and just finished playing for over an hour. Everything seems fine. i am definitely getting a pwer conditioner. Anything to look for in those? never had one before...and good brands, etc you know of? Thanks again for all your help, i am real excited to have my amp running. There might be better amps out there, but you'd have to get a few of em and spend WWAAAAYYYYYYYYYY more, and even then...I told the guys i work with and also my wife that across the pond they call diapers nappies and they all got a laugh. but i think i agree with you, diapers is a weird word. Thanks again for all your help!!!!!


PS: you follow UFC at all, Dan Hardy is a UK fighter and he is comin up fast!

Re: Spider Valve HD 100 Quit Working. Curiosity Got the Better of me...A Little More Help Please???
by Nick_Mattocks on 2009-12-23 00:41:36

Hi Jesse

I don't do this stuff for a living - never have.  Always been interested in electronics since about the age of 8 when a company called Philips came out with the Philips Electronic Engineer kit designed for kids.  It had three transistors, some peg board, circuits drawn on card, spring clips that poked through the card, resistors, capacitors, a speaker, a book full of projects and it ran on a 9v battery.  You could build a radio, little amplifier, a keyboard (of sorts).  At 8 I had no real clue, but at 11 I got it out of the cupboard again and started making stuff that worked.  people would give me stuff to mess with and try to fix.  I'd get some really dangerous stuff passed to me like old TV's that wouldn't work, valve radios etc... and I learned a lot - sometimes the hard way and I learned a great deal of respect for electricity in the process (ouch!).

I work for myself in computing - so not a million miles away and have been a college lecturer in my time.  I spent a lot of time with a few of the technicians in AV and picked up a lot from them.  Playing guitar in a band and knowing how to connect the PA and run repairs on my own kit helps and usually there's someone who wants something fixing.  With Health and Safety and liability law being what it is, I don't do repairs on the high voltage stuff for anyone else - for one thing I don't usually have the time, but it does get quieter in Christmas week.  However I do know how to read a circuit diagram and I can usually work my way through traditional PCB's to see what's going on, so whilst I'm certainly no genius on tube electronics, over the years you do get to see similarities in things and as I said most tube amp designs which use 6L6 tubes are loosely based around the same format.

As for what type of power conditioner - hmmm hard to say really particularly as I don't live in the US.  Working with computers I use Uninterruptible Power Supplies (UPS's) a lot.  these have a backup battery which in theory should kick in as soon as there's a dip in power and when there's a surge the UPS will also absorb that.  UPS's vary a lot in capability, quality and price.  You can spend a fortune on one - way more than your amp and still find that it doesn't switch quickly enough - I very recently had a bad experience with a brand new 1500VA UPS from a company called APC which could handle 865W of current draw for about 11 minutes worth of battery backup at full tilt.  The HP server I had connected to it - also brand new and with only a 750w PSU switched right off with no warning every time the lights barely flickered.  After arguing the point with the supplier and getting confirmation from APC that this PSU wouldn't work with the server, the supplier replaced it with a Riello UPS which works great.  The problem with some of the bigger UPS' is that they weigh a ton and they take up the space of a speaker cab    You can also get these filter-trail mains extension cables which have coils and diodes in them to supposedly stop power spikes, but they don't stop dips in power.   You need to consulty the back of your amp next to the power supply inlet socket for details about how much power the amp will draw maximum.  Now be careful here because there are likely to be two or more sets of info with one being for US voltages and another being for European voltages (inc the UK).  The power rating will be expressed in Watts not to be confused with the Watts that your amp puts out in terms of speaker power.  The unit of Watts is used in the same way to show power consumption and power output, but the two figures relate to two different things.   If you go for either a filter trail solution or a UPS then either one will have to cope with the maximum requirements of your amp in terms of current and power, or they won't work.  I can't find the necessary data in the Pilot's Guide or the Advanced User Manual for the SV HD100 to tell you exactly what you need to get, but I'd say that you need something that is small enough and light enough not to break your back, and with enough running time to see you past a few monetary blips and that can support the power requirement from of your amp as stated on the back.  If you need more clarification on what type of power conditioner/UPS is known to work in the US with an SV HD100 you'll need to ask Line 6 directly or hope that someone else who lives in the US uses something that does the job.

No - don't follow UFC at all I'm afraid.  Looked up Dan Hardy though - yes he seems to be doing OK doesn't he?  Not really too bothered about most sport TBH - all too commercial - being English I have got a certain affinity with football though - erm... that's 'soccer' to you - y'know the one where they kick the ball a lot, try to score goals against the opposing team without stopping every 25 yards for a breather like they do in American Football - although I can see why - it must be really heavy work carrying those massive shoulder pads and helments around everywhere, let alone trying to run as well - Jeez! Makes me tired even thinking about it.  LOL And all those numbers they shout before running away with the ball... what's that all about??  Sounds way too much like maths (sorry, 'math') to me (shudder...)   Nah - I wouldn't call myself a sports fanatic by any stretch of the imagination....

Good luck with the amp - proceed with caution - ask Line 6 about using two tubes instead of four if you need to in the short term.  Have a great (hopefully earth shatteringly loud) Christmas


Re: Spider Valve HD 100 Quit Working. Curiosity Got the Better of me...A Little More Help Please???
by thelgren on 2009-12-23 20:10:37

Well, I totally agree. American football is the worst. well, i dont know, nascar may be worse.I dont like many sports either. I raced downhill mountain bikes and did mixed martial arts most of my life so i enjoy those. i am getti ng into rallye cars too a little.

Thanlks for all the info, i played over an hour tonight. just starting to get into editing some of the presets and such...lovin it. so far no more problems. i  am going to get a power conditioner real soon.

Is there a cool down time i should set the amp to standby before shutting it off? i know not to move it until it cools a bit...

Thanks again, have a great Christmas weekend!

Re: Spider Valve HD 100 Quit Working. Curiosity Got the Better of me...A Little More Help Please???
by Nick_Mattocks on 2009-12-24 06:36:56

Great stuff.  I assume you plugged a fuse in and all is well??  Well I guess it must be since you're playing the amp and adjusting presets.  Sorry it took so long to get there, but glad you did - you can't take risks with this stuff and communicating via a text based medium only makes it a bit difficult sometimes to see what the issue actually is - and with warranty and safety issues I wouldn't ever want to encourage anyone to do anything that would cause them a problem warranty wise nor heaven forbid safety wise   But YOU did it and for that you should be congratulated.  Nice work

Cool down time before shutting the amp off.  I'd say turn the standby off - wait a few minutes and then knock the main power off, and leave the amp stand for 15 minutes or so to let the tubes cool down before moving it.

Woo-hoo Go and make some noise

Happy Christmas


Re: Spider Valve HD 100 Quit Working. Curiosity Got the Better of me...A Little More Help Please???
by KotaRocks on 2009-12-24 10:20:10

I hope yous guys dont mind me jumping on your thread here.  I noticed hd 100 quit and I GOT CURIOUS.  That Nick Mattocks is somthing else.  I refer to him as Proffessor when I discuss this L6 "community" stuff with my compadres. He seems a super cool,smart and nice kind of "chap".  I can certainly relate to your predicament as I too have an SV HD100 that has laid down.  Really pissed me off big time and I got on this blog space thing by coincidence and shot my mouth off and typed some stuff I regret.  Apologizes all around ya know?  I am not interested in trying to repair my amphead myself such as you have. I hate hospital food also.  That was a good one by the way. I have a couple of Qs for you if thats OK.

1.  What kind of music do you play?  I am a Lamb of God, BLS and White Chapel kind of jammer myself.  I can play most all thier tunes (not as well of course but I do have my own style, and sound which the HD100 is a HUGE part of.)  I really dig Billy Gibbons (of ZZ Top)  that old man is a riff MONSTER!  I LOVE Zak Wylde (Ozzys latest legend)  I mean think about it,  To jam the Ozz man ya gotta rip some RHOADS ( that is quieta feat in its self) Jake E Lee( it had to be hell trying to replace RR)  Jake E can rip. Zak Wylde knows his way around a fret board.  His tone is BAAD!  I have a ZW EPIPHONE.  You know, the cheaper one,  Gibson is like waay out of reach for me.  ZW plays the EMG81 and 85 active pickups.  The EPI has EMGHZs which are passive,  yet it suprisingly rocks.  Eddie Van Halen peeks my creativety.  What a challenge that guy presents.  I aint talkin bout the tappin thing.  Thats cool and all  but that just seems to be his natural tendency and he does it VERY WELL.  What impresses me is the way he can SHRED through a fluurry of notes, transitioning from tapping to normal and grab a few notes on the way and squeeze that "Charlie Browns teacher" sound out of em.  Know what Im sayin?  Its hard to explain but if you have ever watched Charlie Brown at school, THATS IT.  His teacher talkin is Eddie shredin!  WOW!

2.  Are you as impressed with the Spider Valve HD 100 as I am?  Dude,  this head is Fn BAAD!!!  I have played some awesome riggs of my compadres that are dreams.  Such as the Marshall  JCM800 and vintage cab.  Truly amazing!  Also, the Mesa Boogie dual Rectifier.  However,  I am a recently turned 17, no job, live at home high school football (American version) player.  I am "Financially challenged" you might say! HA, I could become a business man and get involved in some very lucrative activeties but I dont like jail food AT ALL!  I know what your thinkin,  why dont I get a JOB?  Now that football is over, I am planning on doing that.  Perhaps the local music store.  That would be awesome!  Anyway, my previous favorite rig to play was my friends marshall MODE4.  If you ever get the chance to crank one for an hour or so you will see what I mean.  Saaweeeet!!  I dont think marshall is producing MODE4s anymore.  Must have been a problem with them.  It was a solid state/tube monster much like the Line6 spider valve.  I was planning on laying away a MODE4 until I played a spider valve and changed my mind.  I LOVE the MEAN tone I get with the SV HD100.  The Professor believes I have a tube issue and he is probably "Johnny on the spot" like you said.  I would like to meet that guy. I doubt ever I will be in the UK.  The 900 bucks my DAD payed out is the BEST DEAL available.  PERIOD!!!

  3.  My cousin is ready to drop her first rug rat anyday now and I am going to get her some wipies.  Id say you cant have enough wipies when you have a new baby.  Diapers IS a strange word.  Makes me curious bout that.  Ill call em wipies from now on.

4.  I was trying to turn a couple into five, but I have rattled off so much BS that now I dont remember my questions! I do enjoy American football. A LOT!  I play linebacker and fullback on my highschool football team.  I am pretty good.  I have a "couple" of colleges talking to me about scholarships.  Maybe that is my ticket.  I have been going to a local MMA gym and training with the local BA.  I enjoy it.  I have a LOT to learn on the ground.  My favorite UFC fighter is GSP. George ST Pierre.  I really like Uriah Faber in the WEC.  I cant believe Mike Brown beat him two times and then got totally dominated by Jose Aldo. Look for a Jose Aldo versus Uriah Faber on the VERSUS chanel soon.  It is coming and man that will be a serious throw down.  I read a book recently that is called GOT FIGHT by Forrest Griffin.  Hilarious book.  Im not a book reading type but dude you gotta get that book.  Forrest is a super funny man.  Great read.  You will laugh your ass off!!

5.  What part of America are you in?  Im a Tennessee hillbilly.  Nothin much to do her but F and get Fd up.Ha.  I play in a local METAL BAND called A DAY of PLAGUES.  We rock.  We have a load of fun.

6.  I love your idea bout the HD front LED thing.  I would get one.  First I gotta get my amp tubed or fused or whatever.  I played a Carvin head that had a diamond plate front grill with LEDs that had several color options that looked super cool on stage.  That Carvin head sounded very good but still no match for the SPIDER VALVE.  All my compadres are always amazed at the HD100.  It rules!! Have a Merry Christmas brotherman.  Nice typing ya.  PEACE!!!

Re: Spider Valve HD 100 Quit Working. Curiosity Got the Better of me...A Little More Help Please???
by Nick_Mattocks on 2009-12-24 11:00:58

Ha ha.  'The Professor'  I kind of like that Very funny.  Not a professor at all though - just (hopefully using some logic), there's many better than me at this stuff on these forums.  You know your problem may well be the same as Jesse's.  If you can get a pack of the right fuses and find someone local to give you a hand in changing a fuse safely, you might have some luck.  There's another thread a bit lower down that talks about running the SV HD100 with two output tubes like I suggested to Jesse along with an excerpt from the Line 6 FAQ on the subject - seems like it's a goer too so if your amp has got a bad tube that's caused a fuse to pop, you might be able to use your amp at half power which would be better than nowt.  Would one of the older guys you play with be able to help you out perhaps?

Merry Christmas - Eat, drink and be merry.

All the best


Re: Spider Valve HD 100 Quit Working. Curiosity Got the Better of me...A Little More Help Please???
by thelgren on 2009-12-24 11:36:53

I agree, thanks again Nick for allyour help. I read alot by some Enslish authors; C.S. Lewis, Allister McGrath and guys like that so i am kind of familiar with some English terminology/Slang. Maybe instaed of "professor" we could go with "Mad Scientist" Ha Ha!

As far as style, I have mostly played Hardcore Punk. In the vein of late 80's east bay punk. Like Neurosis - their album Pain of Mind changed my life! all their stuff is good but that one was amazing. I started with Metallica, Suicidal Tendencies and Tourniquet in like 4th grade. I also listened to guys like Jimi Hendrix and Led Zepelin, Classic kind of stuff but never reall got into solo type stuff. I always liked crazy metal riffs. Dave Mustaine of Megadeth may be the best metal rhythym guitarist. I have played in mostly fast and hard punk bands. I was in a band called Hardship and another called Grace and Thieves when I lived in NW Oregon (many others too but those were the most notable) and I think you can find music from both on myspace.

So fa I am super impressed with this head. I had  marshall 8200 200 watt solid state head with a 12ax7 in the pre-amp. supposed to be the best of both worlds, but didnt really deliver. Had a good sound distorted, pretty classic Marshall, but the clean was AWFUL and it was just not quite there. it was VERY loud though... I used a Mesa Dual Rectifier for awhile, our drummer also played guitar and it was his half stack. it had a good sound but not as versatile as the line 6 but still a very fine amp. I would like to get one some day, or the MArk V which looks amazing. but for now the line 6 is super duper! actually, the more i play the more i am impressed, maybe i wont ever need another. I got the FBV Express pedal too. I like it alot, but i may get a larger one someday. I got it from musicians friend for $459, the pedal was $99 and i got some high end speaker cables, all for under $600. that was august. just a few days back i got a b-52 cabinet, which sounds real good. it has a great low end chug, killswetch engage style.  I am really impressed with the cabinet for $250, it even had free shipping! so for under $900 i got the head, cab, footswitch and speaker cables! I would like to get the line 6 valve cab or a mesa cab but for now the B52 will more than do.

I have four rugrats, but they are all out of nappies, i am going to switch, i dont like the word diapers anymore...

I have doneMuay Thai for about 12 years. I have done various kinds od Karate over the years, but my primary fight styles are Muay Thai, Vale Tudo and Judo. I got asked to fight in a King of the Cage fight in May, but not sure if i will. I like it but its not my real pasiion. GSP is amazing. I like Anderson Silva too.

I now live in SW Colorado now, and i do like Forrest Griffin alot. He was great in TUF season 7.

The Carvin is sweet, and affordable,  Carvin makes good stuff. I really like their bass stuff too. I like the line 6 head better so far though. I was also thinking of getting a new piece of plexi for the front and having my own design etched it...Orange does that for their heads i think...

Nica chattin Bro! I hope you can get your head goin!

Re: Spider Valve HD 100 Quit Working. Curiosity Got the Better of me...A Little More Help Please???
by thelgren on 2009-12-24 11:39:40

yep, i got a couple fuses from a local ACE hardware and boom! Im good to go. Thanlks so much for youe valuable info. Im goone get some books and equip and learn to do my own work because i am in the middle of nowhere. maybe ill get so smart one day some one on here will call me professor!\

Thanks again!


Re: Spider Valve HD 100 Quit Working. Curiosity Got the Better of me...A Little More Help Please???
by fordsho90 on 2010-05-07 15:54:27

Hey  Jesse what kind of fuse is that? I know you said you got it at Ace but what is the model number on it? Any info would be great thanks...

The information above may not be current, and you should direct questions to the current forum or review the manual.