From what I can tell, the power amp stage looks good.  I just replaced both preamp and power amp tubes with 12AX7 and a matched set of Sovtek 5881s.  Biasing on the power tubes is ~32mV, and the amp has never been turned on without a speaker load.

If the DSP board does fail, what options do you think I have?  I would love to continue to use the power amp section of this device, but I want to do it correctly.

I would like to kindly ask for help / useful advices regarding the following problem:

The clean channel of my Spider Valve mk2 112 type amplifier is making distortions regardless its volume. I have already changed the tubes, so there are completely new tubes inside, and resoldered and cleaned the sockets as well. The the gain meter is in a low position too. The bias has already been settled as well. It is of course not an operating issue. If the guitar is directly connected (power amp in) to the back of the amp, this phenomenon never happens.  

Thank you very much for your help in advance. 

Have a nice day, 

Leslie 

I have found this new 212 has not had the firmware update so I am unable to load all my Spider Valve Edit presets.

Tried to update but Monkey only detects Pod xT (which is not even connected nor do I have one!). It then quits out.

How am I going to; 

a. Update my firmware

b. Get Monkey to work

c. All of the above...

I am using a MacBook Air 11" using High Sierra and Monkey 1.78

Even with all that information, I can not figure out what model Amp this is.  What speakers are inside it?  

I tried calling line 6 and an answering maching told me to open a customer ticket.  I tried opening a customer support ticket,  but just got sent in circles with a "tell us what you researched" loop that went no where.

I can't belive it, but I found nothing through a google search.  

Can anyone help me find out what the model of Line 6 4 x 12 cabinet is?
 

Also, is there any authorized service centers in New Brunswick, Canada? Thanks,

David

So like I do NOT play, like at all. Im here asking to fix this for my hubby. He plays. Anyway The guitar input jack has fallen inside the head. I've watched the youtube video about replacing the jack on a SV  112 amp/speaker combo that was unhelpful.  I know to be mindful of the tubes. Looking at the Amp Head it seems like once the back grate is off it should slide out of the box. I just do not want to remove more screws than I need to. If you just want to advise me to take it to a repair service center thank you very much.

Any help is appreciated. BTW this is the most words I've used on a public forum in my life. Yuck

I noticed a strange 4 wire connector coming up near the tubes from the board inside. My other HD100 head does not have this and it just seems quite odd to be dangling there. Can anyone tell me what this might be? See attached pics. I really just wanted it for spare parts but obviously want it to work. I can still take it back if need be....

However, I've never replaced the preamp tubes and I'm sure it must be time to change them as well. I've been looking online for the Chinese 12AX7B listed in the instruction manual but I can't seem to find those anywhere, not sure if they simply aren't sold anymore.

When it comes to the power tubes these are the ones I was able to find: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003IE8GQK/ref=crt_ewc_img_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AJFLJ7J2AIXGD

Can anyone please confirm if I have the right power tubes and help me find the preamp tubes I need to replace? (Again, I've never replaced the preamp tubes in the 7 years I've owned the amp.) Are there any alternative preamp tubes that could be used? 

Appreciate any support!

       So, while I am waiting on it to be fixed, I would appreciate any suggestions on how to set it up and get the best out of it.  The music I play is: 50/60 Rock n Roll, Old Country, and Gospel. Prior Line 6 experience is with my Spider 2 160w 2x12, and a Spider 3 75w 1x12 amp..    Thanks for the info and replies.

Is anyone with one of these amps willing to trace the upper back panel on a large piece of paper that I can use as a template to fabricate one? I'm happy to pay you for the material.

Thanks!

The main thing that strikes me about this amp is that it's a "drive by wire" design, meaning, the tone, gain, volume, are all controlled via the digital processor. Those controls are not directly wire in to the amp in the traditional sense, using tube pre-amp circuits routed to tone circuits, then to channel volume and onward to master volume.  For example, when you turn up the bass tone control you're telling the processor to turn up the bass, rather than an actual pot controlling the bass frequencies within a bass tone circuit.
This amp would be better if the tone, gain, and volume circuits were not part of the digital processor, but were like a traditional tube or solid state amp.  Having the gain and tone controls in traditional circuits allows a cleaner and purer tone compared to the more processed tones of the SV.

After playing with the preset modeling voices and effects, I found I preferred playing in the "manual" mode as I enjoy the Bogner designed tube amp very much. But, the tone controls seem artificial, not bad mind you, just odd.
The way the SV is designed you can hear the processed tone, especially when plugged in but not playing.
I set my gains, tone, and master to what I want, and set my guitar volume to full.  Even when not playing I can hear a swishing hiss that sounds odd, almost like an out of phase hiss, and clearly processed.  On most amps there is inherent hiss, especially when playing with higher gain settings.  But, with non digital amps the hiss is normal and typical of the kind of hiss we've all heard.

With the SV the hiss is not the same, it's a processed, digitized sounding hiss. This is there even in manual mode, which tells us that even in this mode the tone is still being controlled by the processor and not a straight tone circuit.

The Spider Valve has some great tones, and it's very versatile for the player who likes to use multiple effects but doesn't want to fiddle and connect all those pedals. There are great clean tones all the way to modern fully saturated gain.  Metal players will easily be able to find a tone they like and can use without the need for external pedals. There are nice bluesy higher mid tones, and gritty blues tones as well.
All quite nice in total.

If you like having the ability to play various voiced tones that mimic other amps, then you'll love the SV.

For me, this is not the amp I was hoping it was.  I was hoping that this was a more traditional tube amp with a modeling and effects processor, where the processed sounds are implemented via an effects loop type manner.  IOW, I wanted a straight tube amp that has an effects and modeling processor that can be turned on or off, yet can be played just like any other tube amp when the processing is turned off.  The SV is not that amp.

The sounds coming from the amp are mostly created by the processor and that processor can not be turned off.  It's an integral and vital part of the amps design and function.

As I stated above, even the gain and tone controls are processed within the digital processor.
It is a tube amp, sort of.  It's a Bogner designed tube amp and it uses tubes in pre and power sections and that shows as the SV has some great tube qualities with lots of harmonics, and glassy overtones.  But, it doesn't sound like the pre-amp 12AX7's tubes are creating all that gain or adding much to the tone.  The nice harmonic and glassy overtones are created by the power amp tubes.
Most of the tones and sounds are processed via the digital engine. It's a great tone engine, but it's not as pure or clean in tonal quality as I want, which is what a non processor tube amp can give.

The modeling and effects are very integrated into this amp, so much so that even in manual mode it's not a straight pure tube amp.

The modeling effects are still in effect in manual mode.
IMO, this would be an even better amp if it were designed first to be a straight tube amp that has a modeling and effects engine that can be turned on or off.  This would allow the user to be in a true manual mode where the gain would set the incoming signal from the guitar to the desired level.  Then, the user can dial in the bass, mid, and treble tones independent of the processed sounds.

The channel volumes should also be independent, so that the user can decide at what level each channel plays.
As it is now the processor even handles the channel volume, and that's why there is so much volume variance as the user switches between different modeling presets. The presets have been done by the programmer, such that when we change from a blues setting to a crunch setting, not only do the tone settings change but so does the channel volume. You can tweak that by going in to the processors controls and dialing in the channel volume you want, but you have to do that for all of the presets. It can be done, but it's cumbersome.
If the channel volumes were separate and the user sets them, then we simply set the channel volume where we want and then the master volume, and then as we switch through the presets the over all volume should change only slightly due to differences in gain settings.
Instead, we can be in one preset and set the volume where we want, but then we switch to a different preset and the volume goes WAAAAY too high.  Not a good thing.
I don't think the master volume is part of the processor, it seems independent and directly controls the power amp.
And the presence control sounds outside of the processor, sort of a separate adjustable tone filter.

Final analysis:
I don't want to leave the reader thinking this is not a good and good sounding amp.  Far from that.
The SV is a very good sounding amp, and it's built very nicely, though a bit heavy for a 1x12 combo.  
This is a great amp for the player who wants versatility and variety to the types of sounds and tones one can get without having to use outboard pedals and processors. There is a wide variety of amp modeling voices along with a variety of digital effects, delays, and reverbs.
Plus, all of those things can be tweaked and then put into a preset that the player can call up later.
For the gigging guitar player this amp can let him build a particular tone for a certain song of songs and then use a foot switch to change between those sounds. Excellent functionality, as long as the user takes the time to understand how to change and set things, as well as learn the software so that the user can alter settings via computer control.

However, for those like me who are seeking a purer, cleaner tube sound, the SV is not THE amp.
One area where the SV isn't as good as the better tube amps is the responsiveness to the players touch, and to the volume and tone changes from the guitar. The SV has decent sensitivity, but it's not very good. The processor is in the way and is likely damping that one sought after detail from less processed tube amps.

I really wanted to get the Bogner Alchemist, which is a straight tube amp with Line-6 delay and reverb effects that can be called in to the signal path. The Alchemist is a straight out all tube amplifier where the effects can be brought in and can be shut OFF without affecting the amps tonal character. I don't know why Line-6 stopped making the Alchemist.  When it came out and during it's short life it received excellent reviews and was highly praised.  Why did Line-6 stop making such a well received and great sounding amplifier?
I can only speculate, but I don't know exactly.  I do know it's a damn shame that it's no longer being produced.

As you know by now, I will not be keeping the SV.  It's a very nice and very capable amp, but it's not what I want, close but not there.
So, my search continues.
I'm going to pick out one of the other amps that was on my list.
My list:
Bogner Alchemist (used)
Fender Super Sonic - newer versions 22 or 60 watt. (I kind of like the 22 watt better)
Carvin V3 micro 1x12 combo
Egnater Tweaker

The last month i played in my home with spider valve mk II hd100 and after playing at very moderetely volumes as usual i cut power from it and i covered it with a bed sheet. A few day ago i power on it ,take a few second to heating valves with standby on, but all the valves did not work !

I always use a current-voltage stabilizer so it is impossibile for it to take some current-voltage jump and during this month never have touched it , so it's impossibile to take account of physical damage.

All the valve doesn't not work at all, very strange. The amplifier hardware works very fine, all the lights are on , but the valves are not. I use it infrequently and at minimum volume, so although i buyed it 3 years and half ago it's strange that all the valves stopped to work suddendly. The last time i've played it there was a great sound, no oscillation in volume , great basses and dynamics.

Please help me ..

When I change by hand bass knob it moves to the correct position but then after one second it always changes by itself to the position of drive knob(if drive is set to 9 o'clock then the bass knob changes automatically to 9 o'clock)

What can cause this problem?

Thanks

I am going through and having to set every chan vol to somewhere around 15 or 20 in order to stop blowing my ears out.

I was going to save this up as a default bundle, then I got to wondering if there was already a bundle like that.

I do not see any bundles.

Does Custom Tone support bundles for the valve Mk 2 HD100?

--Joe

Wow, long long time wothout posting here ;o)

I am still the owner of a mark 1 SV 112 and still hppy with it. I never experienced the overheating DSP problem leading to neverending ressting of the amp, but it is true that I seldom used it at high volume for long periods of time. I only gigged twice with it and have played it in my personal home studio at home mostly.

What I would have liked to know is if this problem is systematic with MK1 SVs or if it is completely random. I mean, have there been random series that have the problem and others that don't have it ?

I have the Strymon SVPre that I installed when it came out and the DSP board is, it seems, the first make (Revision A from 2007).

So far, I have never experienced the problem. If I ever do, I'll try to fix it with a heatsink on the overheating areas of the board, but I'd really like to know if this is a randomly happening problem. If not, I might have just got a series without the flaw and I'll be glad about it ;o)

Thanks a lot for your answers.

Jay

At this time there is no software matching your selection

WTF? How did the guy in the video do it then? Is this software available or not?

You may not even feel the need to go FRFR or DT amp.

http://line6.com/support/topic/20408-helix-and-spider-valve-rocks/?do=findComment&comment=154007

cheers all

Some of those made great starting points to edit.

Any insight, past experiences or articles pointing me to the right direction towards figuring out what is happening will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I was in the middle of updating the firmware of my amp when suddenly it failed, and now I got stuck with a completely blank screen and an unresponsive amp.

Basically, Line6 Monkey doesn't recognize my amp, I already tried to power up while pressing A, nothing works.

The MIDI cable works fine, I have a POD 2.0 and it works just fine. Every driver and everything works properly.

Is there anyone out there who can help me?

I am still trying to learn the amp and line 6 line so I failed to realize the MKII had a looper and who knows what else I missed VS an MKI.

Should I be hunting for a FBV Shortboard MKII?

is there software I can download to make my own presets etc?

any advice or suggestions to get the most out of this amp will be appreciated. 
 

I spent some time searching/reading forums to see if anyone was reporting similar problems.  I saw two things

1. Thermal problems with the HD100 MkI
2. Someone suggested that if you play loud, sometimes the vibrations can cause the amp to think you are moving the knobs - suggested turning all the knobs to zero.

I decided to take the amp apart and inspect it.  Nothing seemed obviously wrong, but I hoped that disconnecting and reconnecting all the cables to the digital section might magically fix the problem.

No such luck.  Problem still existed.

I decided to turn all the knobs to their zero position - I wasn't playing loud, but had nothing else to try.

BINGO!  Turning all the knobs to zero and the problem went away.  I played for about 20 minutes with no phantom switching - previously it would switch every 10 seconds.

A little more investigation, and I noticed that when I moved the Drive or Bass knob, the channel would switch.  Looks like some cross talk between the first three knobs  (first 3 knobs are Channel, Drive, Bass - in that order).  None of the other knobs cause any problems.

So now the amp is usable - although I am a little hesitant to use it in a gig.  It still doesn't work right, but I don't actually use the Drive and Bass knobs much if  at all.

QUESTION #1 - anyone seen phantom channel switching like this?

QUESTION #2 - anyone got any suggestions for how to fix the problem I have with the Drive and Bass knobs causing channel switching?

Note: I bought another HD100 amp so I can play gigs.  I had to buy it used since they don't make new ones anymore.  Huge bummer because I think this is a fantastic sounding amp - and great for me since I play in a cover band and I need a versatile amp.

QUESTION #3 - if they don't make the HD100 anymore, what is the replacement in the Line6 product line?

Jack

I resetted the Spider Valve, I resetted the FBV (flash rewrite v1.10 via Monkey SW), I recalibrated the FBV, I tried different Rj45 cables, I tested the FBV as MIDI controller on PC and all reacts in time as supposed (does this mean the pedal is functioning?). I checked the connectors and Rj45 sockets, all seems clean and in good shape. When switching channels via amp buttons the FBV reacts immideatly.

What else can be done? Contact spray would be the next step..

It needs to be said that it was working well some time ago.

Any ideas? Any help is appreciated!! :)

Kr, Peter

I changed my Spider Valve 212 Tubes after one 6l6GC tube totally blew the the plastic vacuum seal.  It also blew some fuses (of course).  The last time I changed and biased the tubes I used thetubestore tubes with no problem.  I just changed the tubes with JJ tubes and the bias was almost perfect (34.9 and 35.1).  I also reset the computer this time.  Now the volume when totally cranked up on both (channel and master) is so low my strings are louder.  I removed the footswitch and all pedals just in case and it didn't make a difference.  None of the pots are crackling.  It does seem the tubes arent as bright and hot as the last ones.  Any thoughts? 

Much appreciated,

Iron Mosher

https://vimeo.com/525662331

my clean channel is no more clean, now it sound like fuzz.

I replace the preamp tubes, reset the amp to default settings but it didn't help.

What should I do?

Is my digital part creating this problem?

Please help

a HD100 MK1 and a shortboard.

I would like it to be looked at by a service technician since the person has mixed brand tubes in there. Although it is working I would prefer not to risk damage anything.

The website is not working for me trying to search for a repair location in North Texas. 
 

Also if anyone has any recommendations or advice on this head let me know. I am

new to modeling amps. Is there software I should download? Etc 

Thanks in advance 

Does this sound like a tube problem, a power supply problem or what? I love this amp but I can’t depend on it! Help!

thanks!!!

Unfortunate, the new software don't let me update the firmware of the foot pedal, bcs Line 6 Monkey can not be opened on os Catalina.

Anyone knows if they will update Line 6 Monkey too?

My Spider Valve mkii 112 makes no sound.

One day I turned it on and the volume was very low. It sounded normal otherwise. The next time I turned it on there was no sound at all. 

• The tuner works, so I know it's getting a signal from the guitar.
• There's no sound when I plug into the "power amp in"
• There's no sound from the "preamp out" into a mixer.
• It looks normal, the lights and LED are working,

Seems odd that it makes no sound at all. Any ideas?

Thanks. :)

Any ideas?

So this is my first tube amp, and it was working great so far.

However, Yesterday during band practise, after it had been on and working perfectly for two hours, the volume suddenly dropped. When I checked the amp to see what was going on, I noticed that one of the tubes (the one on the left) was way hotter than the others. when I turned down the volume, where was a small lightning inside the tube, and then no sound. From what I've gathered from the internet, the tubes weren't paired or biased properly. When the amp is on, the other tubes light up normally.

Anyway, when I bought the amp, the people at the store had only two tubes installed (the two in the center), to cut the output down and make it playable in the store.

I wanted to know if there is any specific manipulation to do in order to do that. (I have a gig in 4 days and I probably won't have neither time nor money enough to have the tubes changed and the amp biased before then).