All working 100% but no longer needed.

Would need to be collected from Chester area as I don't have a van to deliver and shipping would be prohibitively expensive. Thought I'd try here first before they're consigned to eBay!

Price each: L3S £170.00

                    LT3 £160.00

I’m dealing with an ongoing attempt to get an L3m repaired by my local authorized Line6 service center, and could use some advice and/or anyone’s particular experience dealing with these speakers.

It’s been in and out of the local authorized service center a few times over the last 7 months; and is going back yet again in a few days.

This has been stretched out abnormally long due to COVID shutdown, and according to the repair center, also due to in part their inability to get the response they need from Line6 to complete the repair. Meanwhile Line6 claims the opposite. I don’t know the truth of this; but I do know in all these months neither the repair center nor Line6 has been able to sort out how to actually repair this thing...

Here’s the short story:

-          When connected to the M20d mixer using L6 link, this speaker now shows up as an L3S; and NOT as an L3Tower (L3m/L3t).

-          The six speaker modes do not function properly when using the physical buttons on the back; only four light up; it won’t cycle to the lower two.

-          The sounds coming out of this speaker are severely muddy; major high frequency cut. Toggling the speaker modes doesn’t change the crossover/high cut

-          However! when using the M20d via L6link I can manually override the crossover going to the damaged L3m, and then audio passing to it is no longer muddy. It doesn’t stay like this however..

The speaker was damaged when it tipped partially over while on a speaker stand and the cable plugged into the L6link jack impacted the side of a guitar speaker cab, and pushed the jack in and broke some stuff. At that point it no longer worked via L6Link, but sound input to the analog XLR in was fine. That is no longer the case with the replacement link cards installed; XLR analog in is no good now.

-          So; first up; we contacted Full Compass, and bought the replacement L6link board, and installed it ourselves. This didn’t fix the problem…

-          So then we took it to the local authorized service center that Line6 referenced us to, and they ordered another of the L6link board. (not sure why? at Line6 direction?)

-          This board also exhibited identical incorrect behavior as the one we had already bought. identifies in M20d as L3s sub, low frequency sound only / no treble.

-          The most recent attempt for Line6 to troubleshoot this had my tech move a small jumper from old board to new.

-           It didn’t help. We had already done that from the broken board to the board we bought from Full Compass.

There is clearly something very wrong for this speaker to identify itself to the M20d as an L3s.; but that it seems promising I can override the crossover temporarily with the M20d, so the speaker is capable of performing properly; so it doesn’t *seem* to be be a power amp or tweeter or other functional issue; as opposed to a DSP related error.

If anyone has ANY ideas, please let me know!

I Thank you. :) 

• The supported Samsung dongle (WIS10ABGN) from the manual uses the MediaTek RT3572 chipset.
• Just having that chipset doesn't mean a dongle will work, because the driver has to work, too. The hardware could be fully the same but when it connects, the driver gives an identifier; if it's not in the list of compatible identifiers, it probably won't work. If a stick says it's compatible with WIS12ABGNX, as far as I understand it, it becomes much more likely that it'll work, because it has to identify itself to devices that support the WIS10ABGN.
• I took a dice roll on one on Amazon and it worked. "Wire Less Network Adapter, Dual Band Wire Less N Adaptor, 300Mbps High Speed 2.4G 5.8G USB WiFiAdapter for Ralink RT3572 Chipset for TVs" which is "PUSOKEI" brand. I see like 6 other ones coming up when I search for RT3572 and they all have the same images. They'll probably all work, but I've only tested this one. I put an image of it below. Note: it's probably 2-3 times larger than you're picturing.
• Make sure StageScape shows firmware version ≥1.20 when it starts.
• You test whether it works by hitting "i" on the top right, and hitting "Settings". https://line6.com/data/6/0a06434c12bb52431be9dd7c2/application/pdf/StageScape M20d Advanced Guide - English ( Rev D ).pdf#page=82
• 

So here's the background :

I bought the whole kit : 1 Sub, 2 L3T + 2L2T + M20D. Like 10 years ago.

1 L2T literally blew up. Smoke, and dead. Or soI'm an electrical engineer, specialized in semicondutors...

I opened it, and found the evidence : 2 power supply capacitors smoked dead. Changed them, blew again... Googled it, and found a repair shop in Australia (I am un Europe, France). He told me to go through the repair network. 1 company in France, and refused to even look at it, because : Not sold anymore, no spare parts available...

Found another guy on internet who explained he had such problems, and the amplifier module was the root cause. They are made by a Dutch company... refused to sell it to me, because "custom design for LINE6". Line 6 refuses to sell it to me, because End of Life, no stock, blablabla... It appears that amp module is a standard product so I could get it.

However, I would like to have the schematics to avoir having trouble reparing it. 

If it is discontinued, what is the problem then ?

Could LINE6 release the drawings to those who need it ?

They don't even make PA systems anymore !

Does somebody have them to share ?

Thanks 

Alain

Scott     

I'm a Live-Musician from Germany and still a big fan of Line 6. 

We as a Band are searching for a second L3s Subwoofer and two of the Line 6 StageSource Subwoofer Mounting Pole - Short.

If anybody know one, who knows one, who maybe want to sell one of these items, please contact me!

With best regards!

Julian

Line 6 Stagesource L3s Subwoofer.webp

Thanks.

yesterday I used the 2-input-mixer on the side of the L3T for the first time (yes, I own the speakers for a long time, till now they were used for FOH only), and I discovered that channel input CH2 has a problem, it works for a while, then stops working, then works again and so on. Input CH1 is fine, so I think changing the combo input part will do the trick. Anyone could help me finding out which part this is?

Thank you very much and greetings from Italy!

Thanks in advance for the help.

Happy day!

The touch part of the screen is still in the correct orientation which really makes it had to navigate. I thought it might have been a janked up firmware file or something so I downgraded it back to 1.0. Nope Screen still backwards. Went ahead and upgraded to 1.2, did a factory reset, and sacrificed a live chicken to the Line 6 gods, but the screen is still backwards.

Has this happened to anyone else? Is there anything I can do??

I juts picked up a M20d and I'm frustrated by the lack of guidance as to which currently available WIFI dongles will work with it.  I could sure use some help here.  Thanks.

Charlie 

Line6 Relay G50 manual is recommending to use standard batteries, not rechargeable ones.

Is there any technical reason for this recommendation ?

Does anyone out there use rechargeable batteries, and if yes any problem/issue encountered so far ?

Many thanks.

Danik B.

We have no problem recording and playing back on the SD card.  The only problem is without the set up that was used for recording, the tracks are all mixed up.

Any help will be appreciated.

Thank you,

Dennis

Update: the power amp is a Hypex Electronics audio amp module, slightly customized for Line 6. After examining the ins/outs and finding a lack of reliable schematics, I've decided to not mess with it. Instead, I've simply bypassed the HF compression driver from the circuit (replaced with a wire wound resistor). I run the L2T flat (Reference/PA) for using it as a straight 1x10 guitar cab. This sounds much better to me than the "Electric Guitar" 2-12" emulation response, which I feel added too much high end and bass boost. I can switch in the tweeter when I use it for a PA. Yeah, the guitar still goes through a/d/a, but it's good enough for home use!

Yesterday I was at a rehearsal and was setting up my L2t to run some backing tracks through the RCA inputs. Connected everything, and played a track and everything was sounding great as always. Went outside for about 5 minutes and came back to check the setup with the drummer, all of the sudden I only hear a whisper from what is playing coming only from the tweeter, and nothing else. Checked all connections, disconnected everything...tested on every input with a mic with different cables, also with my POD, and the same...very faint sound only coming from the tweeter.

Tested at home before writing this, and same result. I'm sure there wasn't foulplay from anyone, because I was the only one there setting up before the drummer arrived. I did notice today that the front led has both the white and red colors lit at the same time, maybe the limiter is stuck somehow, someway.

Any ideas, maybe a cable is loose or disconnected inside.

Thanks!

Both kickstands on my powercab plus 212 are broken. Very heavy weight fell on the amp when tilted and they snapped. Currently patched up with gaffs tape and superglue but that won’t hold

Anyone know where I can order replacements? Think they are the same as on   StageSource L2M and L2T

Any help welcome

cheers 

EDIT: I did just now check, and it powered off. and it has been about 4 minutes. So is it safe to assume that I can look at the receiver as a battery and despite whether the unit gets power, the transmitter will sit there, with a light, until it hits that 4 minute timer, then? Or should that not be happening at all, and I need a firmware update? 

Here's the routine:

1. The m20d was sitting for days unused, you turn it on even do a sound check, everything works fine, then 20 or 30minutes later after the m20d just sat there idling, there's NO SOUND coming out, and no it does not seem "frozen", the interface works.

2. POWER-OFF and then Power-ON and after reboot it just works fine again.

I've had it one time recently where I was using it to test a new Sennheiser Wireless handheld microphone system and as I was walking back to disconnect the wireless I tried to talk in the microphone again and lo and behold no sound at all, I actually thought Oh No! I thought this sennheiser system was all the rave, and it craps out like that all the sudden!? But nope, I go back to the mixer, I think I even see bars move as I talk but no sound comes out. I reboot the m20d Stagescape and then voila it works again.

Others who use the system have experienced the same problem, sometimes after turning it on and having it sit idle, the sound dies and requires a REBOOT to bring it back.

Has anyone had similar problems with their m20d StageScape?

Has anyone else had their M20D get stuck while booting up?  Any known remedies for this issue?

It there any news about an update to fix this? Is anybody working on it? Are there any plans for anybody to work on it?

Also, since the LCD is not working, I cannot access the Info page>WiFi settings on the mixer, to get the security pin.  When I try to access the security pin on my one currently connected Ipad, it says it's only accessible from the mixer.  Does anyone know a work around for getting the current security pin, when LCD is out?  Is there a default pin, after reset?

If I feed the L3t's from the Helix (USB input source from same Macbook) the sound is great via the AES link connected to the L3ts

When I feed the L3T's via the very same cable (removed from Helix and plugged to Iris) there is no sound.

Device is selected correctly in Macbook indicating that the Iris is connected)

My main question now is if the AES is compatible or is it actually a Line 6 type connection based on AES (works like AES but only on Line 6 equipment)

Has anybody provided input to L3t speakers AES port from a source other than Line 6 equipment.

The main reason for me doing this is to clear up the sound from Macbook via the Denafrisp Iris and send directly to Stagesource speakers and thus unload my Helix to only handle guitar effects to a different amplifier.

So is my old Is my G10 transmitter compatible with newer G10 SR Receiver? 
The charger port on my old G10 receiver is getting very dodgy, so I’m looking to replace it. My G10 transmitter is still going strong so can I just buy the upgraded G10 RS Receiver? 
Thanks in advance :-)

It then occurred to me that the StageSource series already HAS a sub woofer (though not matching the PC series aesthetic).  So, I'm REALLY curious if anyone has ever tried them together?

In particular I'm wondering if the L6 Link is compatible between the two?  Can I plug into the Sub and pass it through to the PC212+ and have them auto configure the high pass properly?  Does it also successfully send the control messages to change the speaker model on the PC212+ since it's supposed to be a pass through?

I have purchased a used L3T last year and lastly it started behaving oddly: after a while the sound gets muddy and I need to turn off/on the unit in order to get things back to normal.

To better describe the problem, attached is a demo recorded with my Zoom H2N: I plugged my laptop straight to Aux In (levels are good) and played some music; You can notice at 00:09 that the sound starts to deteriorate all of a sudden.

This happens as well while singing (Mic to XLR to L3T's front) but I cannot afford letting you hear my horrible singing voice.

Anyway, hope you guys have some ideas about what's going on!

Thanks

ZOOM0028.mp3

I apologise if this has been covered in depth. I can't seem to find any clarity on this stick model yet though. I just bought a Linksys Cisco AE2500 USB wireless dongle for my M20d. Yes, I know it's got an "A" in the model name, and the compatible dongle stated was just an E2500 - but I took a punt on buying this one, as the E2500 is almost non-existent in my country (Australia). Anyway, I plug it in to the M20d, and wait for it to initialise/be recognised, but nothing happens - the M20d just says "Status: No network adapter present". So is that it then.. give it a bin burial? I had hoped both models would be virtually identical. Any advice greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

The M20d 1.2 upgrade states the following in the marketing blurb:

"It is also possible to import multi-track backing tracks from external sources and utilize them in a live performance, making StageScape M20d the center of the production."

What format do the multitracks need to be? How do you go about letting media player know they are a multitrack backing track?

Has media player yet been upgraded with the option to 'stop' after each track rather than continue through the playlist and infinite loop?

I hope someone can shed some light on this as I don't appear to find anything else about it other than the press releases!

Thanks in advance,

Graham.

Does anyone know / have a link to replacement screws for the Stagescape rackmount kit?

I live in South Africa and the extreme heat has finally taken its toll on my M20D. It overheated and froze one too many times and died. It is a sad day indeed. My M20D got stuck in the startup mode and after many attempts to revive it, including reloading the firmware I took it to the local Line 6 distributer to get a repair quote. The feedback was grim. The M20D is discontinued and no longer support. They have tried their utmost best to help me and eventually (2 months later) informed me they have tracked the part (the HDD controller board). The shock was that it would cost  $500 to repair. The repair cost made little sense on equipment that would overheat and freeze again and ultimately break AGAIN. They even offered to sell me a new M20D at half the retail price ($926). This was insane seeing that I will buy a discontinued unit that will also overheat and freeze and ultimately break. So sadly I had to decline and bought a Soundcraft UI24R for $776.

The sad part is that I really love my M20D and still thinks it is much better that most of the unit out there, yes even better than the Soundcraft in certain aspects. So I kept the unit hoping someone would eventually come to the rescue and let me know they have a unit mostly intact which I can scavenge the HDD board from and fix the M20D or even the part I am looking for lying around and at a good price and will ship it to South Africa.

I really commend Line 6 on their efforts to make a mixer easy to use and has all the capabilities it had. Just sad it did not last long. I will really miss the M20D. So long old (untrusty) friend!

The way I have it set up is that I run the output of the HX into one of the channels on the Tonematch and I set the EQ for the channel to FLAT. Does that seem like the best scenario for setting up my HX to the PA?

I have a lot of disparity with EQ's and output levels when switching presets so is the best practice to leave the Global EQ on the HX and the Tonematch FLAT and individually adjust all the EQ's within each preset by adding an EQ block if needed and getting volume unity from preset to preset by adjusting the Output Block in each preset? 

Any comments or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thank you. Ed

https://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Variax-guitar-model-name-on-Helix-screen-big-enough-to-see/1022179-23508?submitted=1

I have a big issue with my StageSource l2t as illustrated in the attached video. It works fine for the first 5-10 minutes after turning it on. But then the volume suddenly disappears almost completely, and the only way to fix it is to reboot, and it will work for another 5 minutes before the story repeats... It sounds as if the power amp shuts down completely or something, but I am not an expert here and don't really don't know what is going on. All inputs are affected, and it seems the fan on the power unit does not spin. 

Does anyone have any idea what the issue might be, and how to fix it? The unit is a few years old and out of guarantee, so not sure how much I am willing to spend trying to fix it. Any help would be appreciated.