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You ALWAYS use a Helix amp, else it WILL sound like S#$&. In FRFR/LF FLAT/LF RAW/ Modes you'll likely use a CAB/IR in Helix (or an IR loaded on your PC+ called USERIR Mode). Which Mode you use depends on your ears. When I go this way I cut the HF Trim (tweeter level) by 6db. Sounds good to me. I usually use Speaker Mode. "AITR" is a term made up to differentiate between standing in front of a RAW AMP and listening to an engineered/processed amp such as on a recording or through the PA at a concert. IOW - 99% of the music you've ever heard and ALL of the recorded sounds you're trying to emulate with your modeler. Try EVERYTHING! Use what YOU like. DON'T believe everything you "hear". EVERY guitar played through an amplifier and speaker in a room is "AITR"!

Hi, Open a ticket with Customer Support: - https://line6.com/support/tickets/add.html Type “Native” into the Search function box and hit return. When it pops up a window saying that nothing matched your query, you will also see a button that allows you to open a ticket. On the next page - click the “No Product Applies” option and fill in your report in the space provided. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hey all, I didn't see any post that covers a potential bug I've found yet so posting here. I am using Helix Native 3.71 on Windows 11. My PC is decently high-end, 32gb RAM, 7900x CPU, etc. I've confirmed this occurs in both Cubase Pro 13 and FL Studio 21.2.2. UMC404HD interface.Fresh installs of everything. I've made a thread on Reddit showing users with different hardware set-ups (Mac) and different DAWs having the same issue however: Helix Native works fine once added to a channel initially, and even after switching through a few different presets, but eventually after switching through many presets (30+) it stops outputting any audio. The plugin still does show the input levels are present (see pics), but even if you disable all the effects or switch presets, once it enters this broken state it will no longer output any audio. If you restart the DAW or delete the plugin from the channel and re-add it then it works fine with any preset again. In FL Studio, it actually makes a quick buzzing sound at the moment it breaks. When this occurs, other instances of Native on other channels don't cease functioning. I've also gotten this just randomly too- without switching through a bunch of presets. ie: Just changing 1 preset after loading a project can cause this to occur. This feels like it might be a memory leak within the plugin; resources are being allocated when switching between presets but never released, so eventually it presents an OOM exception in Native. It seems to happen faster when switching between more intensive presets (ie: DEVIN TOWNSEND). However, I don't see any increase in memory usage in the Task Manager when this happens. Does anyone know why this is occurring and how to resolve it? Would any other information could help debug this? I went to the bug report page but Helix Native did not appear as a valid product that I could register, and thus I could not report a bug against it. Greatly appreciate any insight, thanks.

This path is likely your problem. I do this as Guitar >> Helix >> Mixer (XLR) Laptop (with audio) >> Mixer (USB) Mixer >> Heaphones Set the mixer as the USB playback device in Windows, and trim inputs from the Laptop and use the faders to set the over relative volume - then use Patch changes to adjust the Helix output levels. I normally do this with both my mixer and Helix connected via USB but the Helix USB only being used for edit. This approach allows both the channel input levels to be monitored and the relativities of patches to pre-rec music - noting that pre-rec audio may vary in loudness as well.

4cm: 1) Guitar>HXSXL Input This is where you put the FX you want BEFORE the Mesa Preamp After those FX you place the FX Loop L Block HXSXL SEND (TS cable = Left Send)>Mesa Input Mesa FX Loop Send>HXSXL L/Mono Return This will return the Mesa's Preamp (with the FX assigned before the HXSXL FX Loop Block) to the FX Loop Block After the FX Loop Block is where you put FX like Delay/Reverb that you want between the Mesa Preamp and Poweramp HXSXL L/Mono MAIN Output>Mesa FX Loop Return 2) if you want a CLEAN boost to the overall volume, you can either place a GAIN Block at the END of the chain (before the Output block) or, to conserve a Block, assign a FS to the Output Block Level and set the MIN (Bypass/Controller Assign in HX Edit) to 0db and the MAX to whatever you want (I use +4db). 3) Only if you want to replace the Mesa Preamp with a Helix Amp/Preamp, in which case you place the Helix Amp Block next to the FX Loop Block, assign both to the same FS, and SAVE the preset with the FX Loop ON (the default for the Preset) and the Helix Amp OFF. This will Toggle the FX Loop (ON = Mesa Preamp, Helix Amp=OFF) and the Helix Amp (FX Loop =OFF, Helix Amp=ON).

Thanks silverhead, yea I use the Princeton and the Amp off options. It's mainly to use the express as an interface for the acoustic. The problem is the volume level. Ive use multiple acoustics and the volume is considerably lower than an electric. I was wondering if there was a setting in the express to raise the line level or something like that for acoustics.

Yes, I understand. Just saying that if the only way to do that is with multiple copies of preset 2, differing only in the default snapshot, I wouldn’t do it.

He’s using the POD Express, not POD Go. It does not have the Clarion model (at least not yet?).

Quote the section that you are referring to.

If the Sunset is in an FX Loop and all you want to do is Bypass it without using the Sunset's internal Bypass functions just Toggle the FX Loop ON/OFF. Maybe we're not clear on exactly what you want to do?

Sounds fine to me with no jumping through hoops. Maybe you just don't like this amp?

Have you solved this yet? All is well on my system.

Yes i should have stated it better. I'm going guitar>Helix > Laptop/mixer. I am monitoring directly off the Helix via the Headphones jack. I have the windows/Helix output selected and its at 100, usually this is fine and then adjust my headphones output to where i want my guitar to be in my ears and then use the spotify volume setting to adjust the 'mix' of the song vs preset volumes. i dont know if something changed or what, but my spotify and windows volumes are maxed and my preset is overpowering the music. ok. i've never had to adjust this so i'm not sure what changed. I'll try this, thank you

I have several questions all related to each other. I have a stomp XL and am using the 4 cable method of connecting to my Mesa head. I want to use the original amp sound as I like it and just use the effects part of the stomp(distortion, Wah(I have an expression pedal) delay, chorus are the main ones. 1. How do I chain these in HX edit using the 4CM so I still have the Mesa sound but just with those effects? Where do I put the effects loop in the chain? I see L and R outs as well so I'm just confused on how to chain it together. It seems that when I have the stomp connected through the 4CM it colors the amps sound and I don't get the true amp sound. I do not have any amp or cab models in the chain. 2. If I just want to use the Mesa amp for my distortion and do a lead boost what would be the best stomp pedal for that? 3. Once I have the chain in HX Edit with effects loop in there, DO i need to turn the effects loop on and off and assign it to a switch? If so what does that do exactly?

Don't know if the pod go has the new Clarion amp, but I use that with my helix for my Acoustic guitar. The Clarion if very clean and has a ton of gain but keeps it clean.

I have the helix floor and use the pc in FRFR Raw mode. that sounds the best to me.

I don't understand the question really but this might be of use: https://helixhelp.com/release-notes/helix/3.15.0#global-midi-control-of-knobs-1-6-pagepage-and-preset-save

I think the problem is he wants to go directly from preset 1 to preset 2 with the desired snapshot ready to go. Otherwise, going to preset 2 and THEN going to the desired snapshot for that preset would be better.

I did something cool and thought I would share. There was not a lot of info floating around because who take an all-in-one kinda thing and puts it on a pedalboard? The pedalboard i bought is a Gator Cases large aluminum pedalboard. The pedalboard is really nice quality, has a made in the US sticker on it. It comes with a decent soft case that has a lid with some stiff material that will provide some protection to the top knobs/buttons. THe pedalboard has rubber feet that are raised up a bit and can have a power cable sneak out underneath the board. There is a clamp on the bottom to mount a power supply and my small one fit with plenty of room. If I could, I would change the holes to be larger or differenter because it was hard to get things lined up and still have the connectors go down into the holes. The power supply I have is made from Sweet Foot Pedals (look at my post history for the exact model). It has an output for the POD GO/HX and 3 "normal" outputs for more pedals. The power supply has worked good for me so far and eliminates the stupid wall warts. I made an input/output box with 3 pairs of jacks wired together. I used some special switchcraft washers to isolate the grounds for each jack so no ground loops will appear. I wired the left side of the box to the input side of my Drop pedal, and POD Go amp and main out. WHen I set up, I just plug guitar and amp/pa into the glittery silver box. The box is a plain aluminum pedal case with holes drilled in it and then sprayed with home depot glitter paint and a ton of clear coat. I'll prolly make some cooler labels for it. I used Ernie Ball ribbon style patch cables for most of the wiring. They have real small heads on them that worked nice with the pedals and pedalboard. I also tried some of those diy patch cables with "pancake" heads and they did not work with my drop pedals because the slots on the pedalboard are weird/small/angled. The POD Go and pedals are attached with the velcro material that came with the pedalboard. I'll see how it works out. I needed to remove the rubber feet from the POD Go to get it low enough. Another alternative would be to add a 1/8" thick plywood bottom to POD go (without the feet) and attach it with screws into the rubber feet. Then use bolts/wingnuts to attach the plywood to pedalboard. Pedalboard https://gatorco.com/product/large-pedal-board-w-carry-bag-gpb-bak-gr/ Power supply https://sweetfootpedals-com.3dcartstores.com/HX-Mini-Totally-Isolated-Power-Supply--APPROVED-BY-LINE-6--Handmade-USA-_p_569.html Cables - I used 12" and 24" https://www.ernieball.com/guitar-accessories/instrument-cables/patch-ribbon-cables

Have you tried turning down the Gain/Drive on the Princeton? Or increasing the Bias setting?

Hi All, I'm getting some digital clipping when using the Princeton Model. I've tried turning down the Master and CH Vol and still get some clipping. My signal is Guitar straight into HX, and L/R out via Line signal to my interface. Interface is set to line, gain is at zero on the interface. I have to volume knob turned all the way up on the HX. I could try throwing a compressor in front of the signal and see if that helps, but I'm open to suggestions. Again, only seems to be on the Princeton amp model.

Are you talking about an actual pitch glide, or are you just referring to artifacts that are introduced with a tempo change? If the latter, that’s a natural effect that occurs in the analog world as well when you instantaneously change the delay tempo. I’m not sure how to counter that, but I don’t have any experience with the DL4 MKII. There is a Global Setting that specifies whether tempo is associated with presets or is handled globally. Try setting this to Global and see if the artifacts disappear. Not ideal because then you would need to change tempo manually every time you want a change.

Hey hey! I was looking through some presets for my Pod GO here, but I saw that it didn't really have any Black Keys stuff, except Lonely Boy. If you have some good setup or preset, mind telling under here Thx!

Hi, I'm just about getting to grips with this pedal and it's enormous creative potential but in order for this to become my 'go-to' Delay I require the pitch glide is turned off! skipping from one tempo to another on each respective delay, creates all these pitchy artefacts that make using it as an 'all purpose' delay useless. I can't see anything in the global settings to address this issue at all? Any help would be appreciated.