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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/11/2018 in all areas

  1. Forty-five days is plenty of time; I doubt it will take even that long. I'll keep building presets and digging deep into the parameters until I''ve sussed out all it can and can't do. I've been programming synthesizers since I was a kid and the HX isn't nearly as deep as some of those beasts. Indeed, and the ability to so easily re-order the HX FX chain is what intrigued me. That alone goes a long way to achieving unusual textures. I suspect this is true but will be part of a new product or, more than likely, the product that was planned from the start; corporations, even small ones, deal in long term strategies that maximized already existing R&D results. I find it hard to believe the name "Helix" was an arbitrary choice; a bit too "on the nose". When EHX came out with the "Canyon" I immediately asked about their plans for the "Grand Canyon". They denied any plans, of course, but it was pretty obvious that a "Grand Canyon" was planned from the start. The Helix is over three years old and now that every permutation of it has made it to market, it's time for the "Double Helix" to be introduced; it's just too obvious. I suspect the Double Helix will incorporate the very "changes to the core programming" and "sonic joy" you mentioned.
    1 point
  2. OP here again. After messing with the Deluxe Phaser some more, I still like it. Set at 10 to 12 stages, it gets close to the middle settings on the Phase 100. Around 14-16 stages it gets deeper like the most extreme setting on the Phase 100. Here's what I have: Rate 0.3Hz | Depth 3.0 | Offset 4.0 | Feedback 25% | Wave: Sine | Mix 50% | Stages 10 | Spread 10 | Level -1.5dB Again, this does not sound exactly like a Phase 100, but it's in the ballpark. I also found a setting more like the Retro-Sonic, which is 4 stages like a Phase 90. I'm not really all that picky. I just like a fat phaser sound that retains the low end. For the record, I rather like the Boss PH-3 too on its 10-stage setting. Not quite enough low end for bass, but it's a great phaser. Another unsung hero is the old TC Electronic TC XII. I had one in my guitar rig back in the '80s and got lots of swooshy mileage out of it.
    1 point
  3. EHX has an interesting catalog and four of their pedals found a home on my main board. In a way EHX is a good example of creating pedals from "off the shelf". Many of their pedals are permutations of various ideas they've already marketed successfully. It's a double edged sword though. How many POG and Big Muff permutations to we need? No argument there. Line 6 can only survive by selling massive amounts to a large consumer base and that base wants familiar bread and butter. Most musicians who are buying modeled mutiFX are in cover bands (gigging or not) and need to "model" the boards of various known guitarists and their sounds. Line 6 is only one of several companies catering to that largest market of musicians. Guitarists in worship bands are probably a sizable market as well. That's he beauty of modeling, though. "Creating" a pedal doesn't require hardware prototyping, it's done inside computers. Using "off the shelf" modeled circuits already in their (virtual) inventory it seems like it wouldn't require extensive R&D (unless they are tying to recreate an already existing pedal). Totally agree, I've got a Rainbow Machine in my sights. Inserting it into my main board's chain is going to take some work, though.
    1 point
  4. If I recall the history of this it is the result of a design change and firmware update at a very late product development stage, perhaps in the beta test phase. An earlier design allowed presets with four flexible FX blocks and no FX Loop. Some of those presets are still in circulation. When loaded into the current firmware they still operate properly. However the current firmware no longer supports this format from an editing perspective so you can't edit a current preset to replace the FX Loop with a different FX block. In order to have 4 flexible FX blocks you need to find and use one of those early legacy presets like the Jeff Beck patch you mention.
    1 point
  5. Have you looked here? https://line6.com/support/manuals/spiderv60 Or check out my attachment: Spider V Effects List.odt
    1 point
  6. yes, This would the correct way. Or at least that is what I would do. Essentially hook up the V4 like it is a preamp of a regular amp First, no need to be like that your coming off really condescending and judgemental. second, who cares what he wants to do . It is his rig. He didn’t ask for your comments on that. Finally, I can think of a many reasons why I would want to do this. Maybe he wants the compact rig of the stomp but wants to have a high gain but prefers the full warmth of the clean tube most of the time. Maybe he doesn’t need all the switch’s the HX effects has and might as well get the amp models with the HX stomp. Maybe he wants an audio interface with amp sims for recording but doesn’t want to spend a ton on the helix and doesn’t want to buy an HXFX and a stomp.
    1 point
  7. So - we're assuming you currently have the Helix, Fender and cables set up as described in your first post; Guitar--->Helix-->Helix send-->Amp guitar input-->Power amp out-->Helix return-->Helix main out-->Power amp in In the Helix, you either have an FX Loop block, or both a Send and Return block. All effects you place in the Helix before the FX Loop (or send and return) will be before the Fender preamp - the FX loop will be the Fender preamp itself. If you turn this block(s) off, you would be bypassing the fender preamp. And all effects in the Helix after the FX loop will be after the preamp (what you typically say is "in the loop" of the amp in a more traditional setup). So, couple things to consider: 1) I have a very similar amp (a 1x12 Hot Rod Deluxe). I know a lot of people use it as a pedal platform, but I've never liked the way it reacts to high gain pedals. So, what I do is use the Fender preamp for clean sounds and light breakup sounds with pedals from the Helix, and then use a preamp in the Helix for high gain sounds. To do this, first insert a Helix preamp right next to the FX loop, and bypass it. Then assign that preamp AND the FX Loop to the SAME footswitch. Now, when you step on that footswitch it will toggle between the Helix preamp and the FX loop (which is your Fender preamp). 2) If you are using the Fender as a clean platform, then you may get better results with a much simpler setup - simply place your effects in the Helix in the order that you normally would in a traditional pedalboard (distortions before reverb and delay, etc) and the plug the Helix straight into your amp. No FX loop, no messing around with 4 Cable Method. Coming from a high-gain/metal background, this is something I resisted for a long time, but after seeing the guys on That Pedal Show get such great results with it, this is now the method I use for non-metal gigs. Guitar -> Helix (all effects) -> Amp guitar input 3) Once you get a handle on the Helix, you can do all kinds of crazy setups with real amps. For instance, I often run a Helix preamp in PARALLEL with my Fender preamp. So I'm mixing the sound of my real preamp with Helix preamps. You can get some very huge sounds this way. Spend some time with the unit, and the flexibility of it will become pretty quickly apparent. Just try not to get TOO lost in endless tweaking (fun though it is) and forget to actually play yer geetar.
    1 point
  8. While I duly acknowledge that what I've done to two Relay G10's in modifying them must certainly void the warranty, in fact my modifications have greatly improved the reliability of these units. The modification consists of wiring an ordinary 5.6 millimeter power jack in parallel with the big electrolytic capacitor on the receiver board, and properly mounting that power jack in the enclosure. The mod also entails removing the mini-USB plug from the power-supply cord and replacing it with a power plug that mates with said jack. The USB jack is left untampered with, so (presuming it has not already been damaged) it can still be used with a USB cable to run firmware updates with a computer. To the best of my knowledge, the green wire and the white wire within the USB cable are not used at all by the power supply, and are only present for use in firmware updating and possibly troubleshooting. Because the solder joints on the filter cap are very small and hard to get at, and because the USB cable is somewhat too large in diameter to fit the power plug optimally, this kind of modification requires patience and craftsmanship. Cheers, Richard W. Faith
    1 point
  9. I replaced mine in my Variax Standard just a few months ago. I had to do a little trial and error to find ones that just dropped in. I wound up finding these that fit perfectly: http://www.ebay.com/itm/262052785759 If you get some, look for ones with 10mm pin spacing, 2 pin, 6 in-line tuners
    1 point
  10. I just bought the G10 on New Years, didn't want the headache that a lot of customers are having. So I bought the breakaway cable, It works great! Thanks for the link!!!
    -1 points
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