Leaderboard

Weird thread.

After both measuring and testing, the line outputs on the Helix are impedance balanced IMO. If they were unbalanced the "ring" of the 1/4 inch would read shorted to the sleeve. It does not - it reads ~680 ohms (IIRC). I hooked three connections to my Bose mixer and L1 stick; XLR, 1/4" Left via TRS and 1/4" R via TS. Adjusted all gains on the mixer to the same place (made XLR out Mic level, 1/4" Line level. Results; XLR small hiss - no Hum, TRS same - small hiss no hum, TS small hiss small Hum. Impedance balanced is a method of simply placing a balancing resistor in series with the ring contact to ground. If you feed such an output into a balanced/differential input (most decent mixers line inputs including the BOSE) you get a reasonable amount of Common Mode (hum many times) rejection. It is even better with a true balanced output (either driven (solid state) or transformer based.

You can assign commands to those switches in Stomp Mode, but the original functions of them would remain active as well. So assigning a PC command to change presets with the Mode switch would probably frustrating as you would switch from Stomp Mode to Preset Mode whenever you hit that switch.

The volume pedal block "bypass" doesn't need to be on any toggle.... just remove it. When you do that, the most the volume will ever go to is the MAX setting you set for EXP2.

I think you're reading too much into the black and white text. I don't think he meant anything other than "look for additional info/help". For instance, have you looked or asked in the Headrush user's forum? Have you explored information about compatibility of connections re: Helix outputs and Headrush inputs (e.g. line vs. mic level; balanced vs unbalanced)? That sort of thing was all he meant. I don't think he was telling you to go away or anything like that. I think it's an over -reaction to call it "toxic".

I never said anything about "stupidity". What I meant by "not well thought out" was that you seem to be surprised by some of the reactions you've gotten. But honestly, it's to be expected...Showing up on an internet forum completely out of the blue, to ask for money from a bunch of complete strangers, will always look suspicious, and be greeted with skepticism for a good reason (especially if your audience is a bunch of cranky old guys ;) ): The world is full of scam artists. But I believe you, and I was not trying to insinuate that you're stupid, or a liar... so I'm sorry if it came across that way. It's just that your approach is a little off-putting, and more or less guaranteed to generate negative responses... that's all I meant, especially if anybody reading it has been scammed themselves. But you live and learn. Having stuff ripped off sucks, and I'd like to think that there's a special place in Hell for guitar thieves. ;) I hope you can get everything replaced. Merry Christmas!

Personally, I'd probably return the 312 and go for something of higher quality with a greater ability to contour the DSP of the speaker for the application. My personal preference would probably be a QSC CP8, or a Yamaha DBR10 which have far better reputations, customizability and sound than the Alto even though not quite as much wattage. Both of those can be tuned for use as a floor monitor, or stand applications as well as having their own low cut filters. Alto tends to be marketed more toward the DJ crowd whereas QSC and Yamaha are more professional live sound oriented. The Powercab could also be a good option if you prefer to go the cabinet route, but there's some people that feel they're underpowered for some applications.

As for playing along with audio from your mobile device (smartphone, tablet, etc.), you will not notice any latency in a bluetooth audio connection. In this scenario, it doesn't matter whether it were 5, 50, or 200 milliseconds of delay. Your perceived real time begins from the moment your speakers in your playback sound system emit the sound --- not when your smartphone initiates the bluetooth transmission of the signal. Any delay in the reception of the bluetooth signal by whatever bluetooth receiver you might choose (to use to connect to the Helix's FX Return 1/2 or FX Return 3/4) will be irrelevant. The most commonly suggested method to connect a smartphone to the Helix is via the Helix's USB connection. This conveys Stereo digital audio to Helix via USB Channel 1&2. This method requires the Apple camera kit, which I understand is essentially a USB on the go adapter for Apple gear. If you wish to use an Analog stereo headphone 1/8" jack as found on most all devices -- apple's latest excepted -- simply get a stereo 1/8" TRS to Dual 1/4" L & R TS cable. These are very inexpensive and work wonderfully with the Helix. Also convenient is that via this method you can adjust the playback feed audio on your smartphone. My understanding is that with the apple camera kit method you cannot adjust the audio feed level on the apple iphone. Rather you have to do so on the Helix via the Global I/O for USB channels 1&2. The 1/8" analog stereo method is how I connect my Android or apple iPods to the Helix for playback and this method works great. The headphone jack method also works great to connect your laptop, tablet, computer, CD player, or stereo system all of which have a headphone jack. The USB method works great with a Laptop or Desktop, as well as if you get a stand along audio interface. Hope this helps.