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Maybe try using the Kinky Boost instead of the Cosmo Echo ,I believe that it's modelled on the EP Boost which is itself modelled on the Echoplex audio path. Craig

Let me clarify guys. My point is that if it's mentioned in the manual it's there as a reference so I don't always need to keep it in my head; I can just glance back at the manual (often quickly in a PDF). Absent reading the manual, the process of discovering features or limitations by exploration can be like stumbling around. For me, a quick read through whatever manual is provided for any sophisticated gear is a quicker process to getting started. At least it has always been for me. YMMV. No offense intended.

I guess maybe I was a bit vague as to what I meant. I've just owned both the Alto and Headrush. They are both PA speakers, so you can put what you want through them. Point I was trying to get across is that for $299, the Headrush holds it's own against more highly priced competition. The Helix has enough customization options in it, that you can boost, or cut whatever frequencies you desire. I just liked the Headrush better. Sounded more like a 'guitar speaker' to my ears, but again that is personal preference. I don't recommend anyone take my word off of a forum. Go out and try it for yourself. If you like the powercab, or friedman, or any of the multitude of other options better, that is what you should go with. Just for $299, it does what it says it will do, although I challenge the 2000 watts it claims. Volume levels are closer to a Fender Hotrod Deluxe maybe, an amp I've also owned, but the Headrush does get loud, and I use it for a small venue band, and run it to FOH. Crowds are usually around 100 people, but I'm just using it as a stage monitor for myself. FOH pa is doing the heavy lifting. It will keep up with my drummer easily, who loves to be the loudest guy on stage, LOL.

Brief story: I got line 6 pod xt live and tried firmware ware update with all current versions of line6 softwares. Everything worked well until I was asked to switch the pedal off/on....then boom! <Invalid Error Code 02> The hustle: I followed all the pieces of advice on this issue....safe mode, press this press that, smash it on the floor....*thats actually not part of it*; send it to the Line6 I.T. guys.... None of them is around my country. At some point I encountered using midi cables and read all I could, bought several cheap midi USB cables to no avail.... And to crown it all, I dropped a support ticket and the best option I got was to get a replacement...*smh* I can go on and on to tell you how bad it felt, but I'm here to tell you how I got it resolved. SOLUTION After two months with a dead pod, I finally invested in a midi USB cable that's a bit expensive *ROLAND UM one MK2*...ever encountered it? Well, that's what I used; I flashed the 3.1 with anxiety but ended up happy. The cable works. So if u are like the former me, get the cable and flash with all drivers needed. #P.S. I'm posting this so that no one will waste so much time, energy and effort it took me to figure this out.

Who are you talking to with this one? I hope it not me because I always RTFM! Page 7 of the HELIX Floor/LT manual clearly states... "IMPORTANT! Never connect the Helix device's XLR outputs to a device whose XLR inputs have 48V phantom power enabled!". I am not disputing that. I was aware of that when I bought the unit so I prepared for it (by breaking out a DI box) and have accepted it as such. That doesn't mean I have to like it :) No worries there Kilrahi! You didn't miss anything so if that "RTFM" comment was directed at you it's completed unwarranted. The HELIX STOMP manual does not mention Phantom Power anywhere... but if you do connect the balanced TRS output to a console with Phantom Power engaged, the same problem occurs as with the Helix Floor or LT. I repeat... The warning is not in the stomp manual so it wont' matter how many times you RTFM :)

Okay, just to be specific, yes, that's normal. Helix tries to model what real pedals do while still giving you even better control. So in the case of a real pedal, when you stomp on it to activate it it's engaged and begins coloring the sound. Very few pedals in the real world (though it's becoming more common) allow you to adjust the mix between the original dry guitar signal and the wet effect. The Helix does which is great, but you should not think of the mix button at zero as a way to bypass the block. Think of it more as a way to reduce the pedal's most obvious purpose while still retaining some of its influence. Just like in the real world, the only way to completely remove its influence in your signal chain is to turn it off - that's true bypass. Also, as long as it exists on your signal chain, on or off, your Helix will keep DSP reserved for it because it assumes you might want to engage it at some point in time. Also, as codamedia pointed out, you actually have a TON of DSP still available through the second processor. Something us Stomp users can only dream of. Considering you love what the pedal does to the sound, I'd consider it a wonderful brilliant accident.

You csn use active pc speakers. I use Logitech z337 through my ux1. Mdke sure you set the gx as your output in your cimputer settings

I notice in their specs they say 2000 watts peak power and 1000 watts continuous. So that may explain the difference. The more important spec is SPL which really relates to "loudness" and it rates it at 131db SPL. For comparison the Yamaha DXR12 and QSC K12.2 are both rated at 132db SPL

With the Helix trying to be the $1500 swiss army knife jack of all trades it feels like a huge oversight to me. It's even weirder the later HX products didn't correct for it. What's more, you'll get musicians who won't know about the problem, plug it in, and think the age old complaint that even the most expensive modelers sound thin is true. Again, it's a great device and in my opinion far better than any other, but this is one particular area that just seems like a sad oversight, and it clearly reduces the value of the XLR outs.

I followed the outline in this video... but substituted the JD Aura in place of the Helix EQ's Jason is creating an IR from. On the JD Aura, keep the blend all the way up when capturing the 16 different tones.

I think it's highly unlikely the Headrush is any better tuned for guitar than the ZLX. Which guitar is it tuned for? Acoustic or Electric? Resonator? Les Paul or Gretsch? If it's tuned to the guitar that means your on stage sound will be different than the sound coming out of the front of house. This all sounds like marketing fluff to me. What is true in terms of difference is the Headrush has more volume, but at the expense of a lack of ability for the user to "tune" the speaker to their needs using a range of DSP contouring options. Additionally, the ZLX-12P is a bi-amp design (one amp for lower frequencies and one for higher frequencies) whereas the Headrush is a simple one amp design with different drivers for highs and lows. The bi-amp designs are used more in premium speakers because it makes it easier to evenly allocate frequencies given the nature of how well sounds project at different frequencies, so they allocate wattage differently for highs and lows. Those are really the only considerations that should come into the equation. As Cruisinon2 mentioned, the idea is you want a speaker with as little coloration as possible so that you get an honest representation of your tone. Some of that coloration can come into play depending on how the speaker is positioned which is why it's handy to have various contouring options to correct for it.

I'm assuming you meant Helix...as there probably aren't a whole lot of Headrush pedalboard owners in this particular forum. But either way, "the better way to go" is entirely subjective. I'm also not quite sure what you mean by "tuned for guitar", but the whole point of using an FRFR speaker is that it's not "tuned" for anything in particular... it's supposed to be a blank slate...a speaker that will provide as little color as possible, so that the modeler (whatever it is) can do what's it's designed to do... mimic something else. By preemptively "tuning" anything one way or the other, you lose that blank slate. So I don't really see that as an advantage of any kind, but rather another variable you'd have to work around. Most FRFR platforms will provide similar results (emphasis on similar...no two units can ever be expected to sound exactly the same, no matter what the spec sheets say). What that really means, is that in most cases you'll b e applying high and low EQ cuts to eliminate muddy bottom end and fizzy highs that often plague this kind of rig... but that will likely be necessary no matter what you choose in the end. Using FRFR speakers requires a different approach than a traditional guitar amp. It's just the nature of the beast...It will vary from one unit to another, some requiring slightly different tweaks than others, depending on the frequency response, volume, the kind of tones you're after, etc etc... but trying to predict which one will better suit your specific needs is more or less futile. In the end, you have to experiment. Buy from someplace with a reasonable return period so you have time to work with it, without worrying about being out a bunch of money.

Today we have a Nirvana tone and playthrough for Come as You Are. This was a lot of fun to record and while the tones aren't a spot on recreation, I feel it fits the song. Of course, all guitar and bass were recorded using the Line 6 Helix using Ownhammer impulses. The Chain: PRS Tremonti SE w/Fishman Fluence Moderns - Universal Audio Apollo Twin - Presonus Studio One 4

OK, so now we have a video showing the measurements and also how to power the HX Effects:

This video might help a bit. And below the video are some measurements of the mid-focus eq taken from this link: https://line6.com/support/topic/335-frequency-response-graphs-for-hd500-eqs/ Unfortunately, the links in the link are broken, thus the images for the mid-focus eq. So with all this information, you should be able to construct an equivalent using what's available in Helix.

Oi so guys it finally started working for me! SO uninstall all the line 6 programs (make sure they’re deleted from your bin n lollipop)... reinstall them etc etc... BUT, and here’s the thing I think I was doing wrong, make sure your line 6 gear is plugged in to your Mac (via USB) while doing all the reinstalling. Just keep that lollipop plugged in.... after each install check your system preferences/security privacy for that little message if it hasn’t already popped up. I find it hard to believe that I wasnt plugging my gear in beforehand but it worked finally. Let it be noted that I also just updated to Mojave. Not sure if that had any effect or not. Dunno. Good lucky guys Fingers Crossed!

The price seems fair for what they are. Someone had to come up with the specs (for two versions) and manufacture them... they aren't an "off the shelf" item. Seems if I spent $1500 on a Helix and I gig enough to make access to the buttons a priority... then $130 for knobs is worth it. YMMV

Firehawk provides a different concept - compatibility with mobile devices. It (and the AMPLIFi series) is a direct response to many pod HD owners who were asking your question in reverse, namely "Why can't I use my iPhone to download and edit patches? I don't want a to have to carry my computer around everywhere." The main reason people buy Firehawk instead of POD HD is for mobility. If you want to use mobile devices and Bluetooth, buy Firehawk. If you want to use computers and USB connections, buy POD HD. Firehawk is an alternative to POD HD - not better than POD HD. It wasn't designed to be 'a super version'.