Leaderboard

NOTE: This only works if you don't use the global EQ... (I did a search and didn't see anything, but if this has been discussed before I apologize) Scenario... XLR out > FOH (PA) 1/4" outs to personal FRFR Volume control is disengaged from the XLR so you can adjust your stage volume without changing the level to the FOH (PA). The XLR outputs can be set to MIC or LINE in the global settings, but they don't have a PAD which is common on most DI boxes. Even set to MIC, when the volume knob is disengaged the signal can be borderline hot. What do you do when the tech yells out "Can you PAD the DI"? GLOBAL EQ to the rescue. Turn it on Make sure the EQ options are flat (no cuts or boosts) Assign it to JUST THE XLR outputs Turn the volume down in the Global EQ to -10 or -20 (somewhere in that range will always make the tech happy) The global EQ is now acting as a variable DI PAD across all patches... exactly what I needed. NOTE: Since the Global EQ and the Volume can be assigned to different outputs independently you are not limited to just my example.

Some years ago I bought the Warmoth body/neck pre-built and routed to house the Variax 300 electronics. I installed Graphtec piezos, Earvana nut, and standard tuners. It remains one of the smoothest playing and most comfortable guitars I've ever owned. I still use it a lot even thought I now have a JTV-59. A great value for a very nice guitar imho.

Don't be discouraged. Keep asking questions, and welcome to the forum.

Ibanez AZ2204 The pickup selections/tones are much more diverse and sound killer, and this is coming from a strat guy.

In a Galaxy, far far away...

When you save them, save them with volume on full. Problem solved.

You would certainly know had you took the time to search the 10 years worth of posts available for the device. But, you know, we can't expect you to do something. For the record - I am a super nice guy. Just not to lazy lollipopers.

#1 - Buy something you will enjoy playing. The more you play the better you will get. #2 - Buy for purpose. If you are going to be gigging out I highly recommend buying two guitars so you have a back up. I have not had a string break live in 4 years but I did have an input jack come unattached. Trying to diagnose that at a gig and then solder it would have been a nightmare. Having a second guitar was less stressful. Your needs may be different if you are just playing at home, doing session work, recording for your own pleasure, etc.. #3 - Learn to take care of it yourself. I do all my own work except for frets. If there ever is a problem I can solve it. I have 4 good guitars that are very similar. I keep two tuned to E and two tuned to Eb. I always take two guitars to gigs.

Yes. The Ethercon Canon casings make for good lock. Jiggling and loose connections can cause transient on the lines that can damage circuitry in the guitars. It would be easier and less time consuming to get a VDI from the music store, rather than making one yourself.

Over the years I have collected a few guitars and still have most of them but my go to is my JTV89F, so i am in he Variax boat (I have 4, VAX700, VAC700, JTV59 and the JTV89F) Others - Gibson The Paul (First good guitar I owned going on 39 years), Kramer Pacer Custom, Parker Nitefly, Epiphone Flying V, Epiphone Les Paul

Get an FRFR with XLR out for a stage monitor. Run the output from the Stomp to the FRFR and the out from the FRFR to the FOH.

If you Can try the KingSlayer Patch..... It's my main Megadeth patch....

I made these from scratch..... from my HX Stomp.....I do not know how to convert them ???? to Helix Main system ??? Sorry my brother

You can get it to change between all of the modes - I know it's just about the same thing but still I like to explain exactly what it does. It's done in the global settings. You'd set either FS4 or FS5 to scroll through footswitch modes. In fact, you could set them both to do it with one going "up" and the other going "down." I use a dual expression pedal with a toe switch and set the toe switch to advance upwards through the modes. Then I use the expression pedal itself to control volume, etc.

for educational use: https://www.sweetwater.com/insync/411-frfr-speakers/ https://blog.andertons.co.uk/learn/what-is-an-frfr-speaker-cabinet If you are looking for "bedroom volume", get yourself a set of those $20 computer speakers. You know that they are loud enough to hear but won't disturb anyone. Plus, they won't break the bank (assuming your don't already own them). On the down side, they aren't FRFR (they are full range but lack the flat-response). So, tone creation is not advised. Also, at that volume, tone creation is not advised. And then it boils down to what to do live and in the studio (and at home when you aren't limited in volume). Me, knowing what I know, having access to what I have, I go ampless. I run direct. But, since not everyone is me - I would recommend using the XLR to go direct to the pa. That means that your "personal amplification device" needs to accept the 1/4" jacks.

The only problem I've got with this is the pricetag... most of the bigger guitar manufacturers comically over-value their products. I've owned several Ibanez guitars, and I'm sure it's a nice axe, but $2K for a bolt-on Strat clone? Can't do it. You can build yourself the exact same thing from Warmoth for $1200, maybe less depending on how pretty you want it...but for a solid color, opaque paint job, we're not talking premium figured wood anyway, so the body wouldn't be terribly expensive. And, as far as I'm concerned you'd be sacrificing nothing in terms of build quality. Plus, all the little details are yours to choose...neck radius and profile, nut width, fret size and material, etc etc. Buying off the rack, you're stuck with what they give you. And not for nothing, but that mini toggle switch could be dropped into any HSS Strat on earth, and give you the same # of pickup combinations. The way these companies price stuff is highway robbery sometimes...

Studio monitors, and/or a FRFR PA speaker or monitor wedge.

I have two Warmoth parts-casters... and you're not really "building" anything in the strictest sense of the word. It's really just assembling fully finished parts. There's no sanding, staining, or finishing... unless you want to. You can buy unfinished parts, but most of their stuff is done and ready to go, so aside from wiring up the electronics, there's really not a whole helluva lot to it. They'll tap and drill all the necessary holes. If you can turn a screwdriver, you're eminently qualified. And quite frankly, imho Warmoth "out-Fenders" Fender...and at a half to two-thirds of the price. They're two of the nicer guitars I own, and they won't be the last ones I "build". Already mapping out the next one...

your right Coda, without expressing it, I'm aware of that difference. Just mispoke (mistyped) while at work. hehehe

Have you considered building your own? I really don’t believe in spending too much money on a bolt-on body. The neck and electronics are where I prioritize. Although, it would be nice to be able to go to a place like Warmoth and tap on a few bodies to see how they ring.

Not exactly sure what I'm supposed to be hearing in that track... I guess I do hear some slight wooshing in the background, but that sort of stuff would never come through in a recording with other instruments. There's also all sorts of artifacts that happen in actual amps themselves.

This is actually quite common across the product range. Hasn't happened to me for a long time, but did happen a couple of times when I first got my Helix floor. Seems to have been cured by an update. If L6 has ever addressed this, I didn't see it. Anybody?

I've had it happen twice in a seven month period.

Yeah, it is always easier to have others do it for you than it is doing it yourself.

I had a guitar with two humbuckers. I wired it so each humbucker's coils could be series-in phase, series out-of-phase, coil one alone, coil two alone, parallel in-phase, parallel out-of-phase. This was accomplished with a 4 pole 6 throw switch for each pickup. I then set up one more switch that could do the same thing with both pickups. That amounted to (if my math is right) 216 different sounds/configurations. I was about to add a piezo bridge for acoustic simulation when the first Variax came out. I have barely touched my other guitar since and never put the piezo bridge in. For the most different sounds, noise free I might add, try a Variax. As stated before, it has it's quirks so it may not be for you. But if it does work for you, as it did for me.....Yahooooo. Get a JTV with pickups so you'll still have that option. The JTV's can also mix the modeled guitar with the magnetic pickups.

If I had to make a choice and own just one guitar.... it would be a Variax Standard (I'm a single coil guy) or a Variax JTV in a pickup configuration I like. IMO, the flexibility of the magnetic pickups along with modeling when you need it is a perfect combination. Since this question is posted int he Helix forum.... is it safe to assume there is a Helix in the gear list? If so, all the more reason to get a Variax!

Les paul, flying v, bc rich kerry king, a silverstar with dimarzio, washburn hb30 and 3 variax. Still prefer my jtv 69 with my custom models over anything else. Strat body with all the other guitars i need. And more. P.s. could wait for the summer namm to see if a new variax arrives.

Variax is an option, too. I like mine... but they have their quirks and limitations, and not everybody warms up to them. Definitely takes a little getting used to, same as an amp modeler. And while they are quite versatile, it's still not my workhorse. But definitely a useful tool in the arsenal.

No - you can't load IRs into POD HD devices.

Gee. I don't know the answer to that question. Let me check my owner's manual(s) for you.

I’ve had my FHFX for almost a year now. Using it in the band at church every week, rarely having problems, working through or around the problems and short comings I’ve run into as they’ve come up. In reading the problem posts in the forum, I’ve come to two opinions I’ll share. (Note that I mean no offense to anyone in the user community with these points.) 1. It’s time to face facts, this product is not intended and never will be supported as a premier product. Line 6 has provided an exceptional product for the amateur / low budget professional to easily get some killer tones. It is not going to provide the updates of additional amps, pedals, microphones, speakers and flexibility some of you ask for. It’s not their business model. If you’re absolutely obsessed with improving your tone to that degree, you will be required to buy their Helix product line. Sorry to burst your hopes, but face it, for $400 bucks they provide a lot of great tones and flexibility. For $1600 you get updates and premium service. 2. Now, this point is directed towards Line 6. You have sold us a product that has bugs and does not perform as you have advertised. I accept your plan is not to enhance the product, but your responsibility is to make it work as designed and marketed! Remote issues, cloud issues, and additional PROBLEMS listed in this and many other threads are your responsibility! Ignoring users that cannot properly use the device is a failure of your management. Think of it this way, if I’m not happy with the Firehawk FX reliability (NOT ITS CAPABILITIES!) and I decide to upgrade to a premium product, why wouldn’t I choose to try another company product. Axe FX, Boss, and others compete with Helix. I probably won’t be looking for a new board right away, but others may be making the decision soon. Therefore I would suggest Line 6 consider these points and FIX THE DAMN PROBLEMS WITH THE FIREHAWK FX!!! Thanks...

I'll add that I haven't even tried plugging in my guitar yet...

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the Kalthallen Cabs. http://cabs.kalthallen.de/kalthallen_free.html There are a Ton of them . I also bought some OH's. I've tried them all but in the end I've gone back to the Line 6 cabs in the Helix. Honestly, With a Line 6 Cab and the Parametric EQ you can match any IR you want if you have a good enough ear. For those who don't have the ear for that or maybe you haven't developed that yet you can use the Voxengo Curve EQ http://www.voxengo.c...roduct/curveeq/) to "sample" the sound you want and then use the Parametric EQ in the Helix to Mimic that sound. My Go-To cab in the Helix is the Rhino 4x10. It's very Beefy like a 4x12 cab but it might be a little dark for some so you can use the Low Cut in the Cab settings and also if needed you can throw a Simple EQ right before or after the cab to brighten it up a bit to your taste. Give it a try. It's so so different from Any of the other cabs in the Helix!!