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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/05/2019 in all areas

  1. Hi,datacomms.I'm too old to get mushy,but a REALLY big thank you for posting this video,it has helped me enormously. Since my first attempts with modelling pedals,i've been useless at getting them anywhere to a decent Amp sound,also I have never used effects except for a couple of different fuzz boxes in the mid 60's(when it became compulsory),so watching Jasons vid has made me realise that my lack of effects knowledge,is probably the major reason for me struggling so much with Amp models. I have of course watched loads of patch building vids before,but the way he builds the patch & explained it(the important bit) has made the penny drop,without having the eq/comp/cabs set up correctly it's probably impossible to get the "amps" sounding right. I know most of the members on here & other forums,will read this & think of course "lollipop head",but I've been gigging for 60 years & only used Guitar straight into Amp(except for the fuzz box period),so I have never realised the importance of the "tools" to get to grips with Amp modelling. This is a big deal for me,i actually think that by copying or referring to these vids,i can possibly get to grips with this,i've never thought this before !! I'm going to take the plunge & buy a Helix,i'll start with the Stomp & then see where this goes(hope my long suffering wife doesn't read this). Oh & i'm also going to subscribe to his channel & how the hell do you get the smileys working !!. Once again thanks,A LOT.
    2 points
  2. I've been using my Helix Rack as my only audio interface for several years with no problem. It's on whenever I am using my computer, whether for recording or not.
    2 points
  3. OP was asking about the LEVEL of the repeats, not the amount (# of) repeats.
    1 point
  4. The Vetta II 2.5 had that in it. I didn't do enough research to check out and see if it actually worked but since it hasn't been included in anything else, I'm assuming it either didn't work well or at the time, no one cared about it. I think it would be hard to incorporate here since there would be no way to tell how loud whatever you were playing through would be. You would need to know that for this to be effective.
    1 point
  5. That's why (unfortunately in today's sue-happy world) they have to use names like "New Jimmy" when trying to describe the tone/sounds. I can see why a 20 year old might have issue with some of these names as their timeframes go back 40-50 years, as I'm over 60 and I don't know some of them myself. ; )
    1 point
  6. Yep, no problem! Solid as a rock since 2016! Why would you have cause to think otherwise?
    1 point
  7. Thanks,datacommando.i'll go through these,one of the advantages of the "old" bit is I have the time(as long as the time doesn't stop).
    1 point
  8. It's been done, sort of... with a 10- band graphic EQ. It was posted some time ago. It was supposed to be a curve that would compensate for added volume...you could just drop in at the end of your signal chain, allowing you to tweak your patches without pi$$ing of the neighbors. Then just click the block on when you're getting loud. It's around here somewhere...I messed with it briefly. But honestly, it's the same amount of work... you have to repeatedly A/B loud vs soft, and figure out exactly which to boost and cut to end up with the same result at both volumes. What works for clean tones won't necessarily be the same for dirty tones. I ended up just doing what I've always done: keep separate patches for home and stage.
    1 point
  9. Yeah....plug a calibration mic into the mic input, place it at the"listening point" in the room, press the "Calibrate FM Block button", grab a big ole 'A' chord and VOILA! FM Block calibrated at that db level! I love it! Next time I'm really bored I'll put it up on Ideascale......maybe in v4.0? ETA Spring 2035.......
    1 point
  10. It was my experience when I was writing SW that no matter how many geeks and robots tested the product, it always took an everyday user to break it.....
    1 point
  11. Hi, I am the guy mentioned above who noticed this problem. They told me I have to wait for the new firmware to fix this problem, they changed every chip and kept happening, so yes, a software problem, but I'd like a LINE 6 (US) Confirmation of this, since I'm from Mexico, so I don't know it Line 6 (US) is really aware of this. For me, it's a serious problem.
    1 point
  12. I'm convinced I was smuggled out of Texas as an infant and dumped in NY... it is wretched here, lol. The older I get, the more I realize I'm behind enemy lines...;)
    1 point
  13. I believe that 1. There will not be a "Helix 2". Not for at least a few years. The latest HX product is pretty new, and they are still able to add SO much. It was built to last WAY more than any other product they've ever made. 2. belly-aching and worrying about it is a bad reason to not buy something that WILL let you make music TODAY.
    1 point
  14. jaysen99, I haven't played around with a Duoverb HD, but from reading up on the specs (100-watt stereo power amp) - I'd say, "yeah, should work the same way." I don't know if you'll need a dummy plug in the front of the amp. I used to run it into my old Flextone II head without a dummy plug and it worked great. Funny part was that the Flextone II head had a single input for the stereo loop RETURN. But, it was a stereo jack, so I used the same y-cable and simply reversed it. The two mono ends went to the output of the HD500 and the TRS (stereo plug) end went into the loop RETURN on the Flextone II head. I have also run a similar set-up with my X3 bean with fantastic results. Remember to turn off the cab sims!
    1 point
  15. davisdc50, I just happened to pull out my HD147 and HD500 this weekend! (I've snagged a lot of gear since that post...) YES! Absolutely, I am tweaking patches for this set-up. The way I run it requires ZERO set-up on the HD147. I run the guitar into the HD500's "Guitar In" and (believe it or not) a stereo 1/4" to two mono 1/4" (a Y-cable) out of the HD500's "Headphone Out" to the HD147's effects loop stereo L/R "RETURN" only. You have to use a dummy plug in the front of the HD147 (or just one end of a guitar cable) or you won't hear anything. Now EVERYTHING runs through the HD500. I think the HD147 Master Volume is the only thing that will respond. Hooking it up this way bypasses the HD147's pre-amp and goes straight to the power amp section, so be CAREFUL with the volume (both on HD147 and HD500) or you will have a "Back to the Future" moment. Ha! Naturally, you won't have access to any of the HD147's modeled amps or effects when hooking it up this way, but you have waaay more in the HD500 anyway. Be sure to turn off the cab sims in the HD500 rigs or it'll sound wonky. It doesn't seem as bad on the clean settings, but really muffles the sound on the dirt settings. I usually start of with the noise gate in the first block of the HD500 and then pick a modeled amp (the versions with "pre" at the end of the name sound a little better to me) and then add the stereo effects afterwards. Sounds fantastic and only takes a few minutes to get a smoking tone. The absolute best-guide-in-the-world for making heavy/metal tones on the HD500 is available from a power-user named "MeAmBobbo". Look for his free guide on the Internet and consider throwing him a couple of dollars if you like it. You can use the HD147 this way for any of the current rackmount or floorboard-based modeling rigs too. Heck, it even works with the "bean" series PODs. I occasionally run my Desktop HD POD through the HD147 as well. The Line 6 stuff is extremely versatile in how you can use it. Many of the stock presets sound amazing if you simply turn off the cab sims and tweak the EQ to your liking. When you go shopping for a used HD500(X), check to see if the model pack upgrade has been done - it's a $100 package from Line 6. If you have the unit powered up in front of you, press and hold the "View" button until the menu screen pops up. Go to page 12/12, all the way to the right, with the circle button and it will tell you if model packs have been installed. I loaded mine up and it says: "Standard Model Set", "HD Metal Pack", "HD Vintage Pack" and "HD Bass Pack." If it doesn't have the upgrades, Line 6 puts them on sale every now and then. Hope this helped! Have fun and good luck! Happy hunting!! TravDaddy
    1 point
  16. The B7K leans more towards being a modern digital overdrive/distortion pedal with EQ; great for metal, hard rock. The REDDI is a big honkin' old-school analog tube-driven preamp, perfect for that fat round tone in hip-hop, R&B, rock, country, and pop. There's a reason so many recording engineers swear by it. Having both bass pre’s modeled would be the best of both worlds! Whatever, I'm getting the tone I want through the Kush plug-in for tracking.
    1 point
  17. I definitely agree that there is a severe need for more modern bass amp models. However, you can try using the guitar cabs and you might be surprised at them. Since we're not at risk of blowing the speaker, they're perfectly safe to use. Most of the bass cabs are too dark and muddy for my taste, although I can make some of them work. I disagree that most of the effects don't have a blend control. Most do. And you can always set up a parallel path to mix in dry signal. You're totally right about usable filters though. I've never been happy with the filter models on any Line6 unit. The "Legacy" Autofilter is the best one still. I wish for a QTron or an MXR Bass Envelope Filter model.
    1 point
  18. Just got a Dunlop DVP4 mini volume/expression. One DIP switch to switch over inside, and swap the direction via the global settings. I will be able to use it as a volume pedal for my mini rig as well, and it leaves lots more room in the backpack for cables. It has a good sweep for such a small pedal, plus adjustable drag on the treadle.
    1 point
  19. HD500X headphone out into a HD147 head stereo effect loop RETURN only, through a 4x12 JCM900 4x12 cabinet. Absolutely freaking magical. In stereo. Great at any volume. You can substitute an older Flextone II head (black and red); it is also a 300-watt stereo head. Early ones are even USA-made and can be found all over for less than $200. HD147 requires a dummy jack (one end of a guitar cable) in the front jack when used this way, the Flextone II does not. LOVE IT!
    1 point
  20. I seriously cannot for the life of me understand why everyone gets their panties in a bunch over getting new amps all the time.... what is it you cannot get out of the helix right now? It has every flavor you need covered, just learn how to dial it in.
    -1 points
  21. Hey, it's Cowboy Troll, with a fresh pile of ill-humored negativity to dump on our party! You must be enjoying it, 'cause you keep coming back, but in case it's simply because you're technologically challenged, there's a black box at the top right of each page that says "FOLLOWING". Just click on it, then click "UNFOLLOW" at the bottom right of that dialog. BYE BYE!
    -1 points
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