Leaderboard

DISCLAIMER: I do not own a stomp. I believe there are TWO Sends and TWO Returns, but they are labelled L/R instead of 1/2 like the other HX devices. I see they also label one...potentially as a AUX return. I am assuming each send and return/aux can be inserted as blocks independently. If I am wrong in this assumption then my suggestions below may not work. I also know that the L/R Sends share a single TRS output... you will need a splitter (Stereo (TRS) > 2 Mono (TS)) in order to send each send to a different direction. Now on to my suggestion :) ------------------------------------------ You say you have 3 blocks left... and that you only used 1 effects loop. That should leave one "send/return" pair available... so this is how I would approach it. This will all be done on a single path... keeping it really simple. The trick it to rid yourself of the notion that the Stomps "output" has to be used for the amp. Remember, a SEND is just another output that you can insert anywhere you need it. Insert the remaining SEND block after your last effect. SEND that signal to the amp and set the "dry thru" so no signal continues down the path toward the output. Insert the remaining RETURN block after that.... have the monitor mix fed to this return With one more spare block... optionally you could even add a reverb, EQ, or compressor after the return if you want to sweeten the monitor mix a little. The result.... the monitor mix (return 2) should be the only signal reaching the headphone output. Here's another trick you could use to make use of the last spare block mentioned in #3 above.... Move that spare block in front of the return Insert an amp block... or if you don't have the DSP power, insert a cabinet block of choice. Turn up the dry thru from your send block to allow your guitar signal to continue on to the amp sim. This will not effect the tone you send your amp, but it will give you an amp sim in the Stomp that you can BLEND with the monitor return. To adjust the amount of guitar in the headphones.... simply adjust the MIX control in the return block NOTE: This option is very handy if there isn't enough monitor mixes to allow you to get the guitar level you want/need in the monitors. You will hear the amp sim in the headphones, the FOH still gets your mice'd up amp.

Thank you, I just saw your reply. I have not tried and update since I reverted back. I need to do another backup and then I will try it again... i gave up on waiting for a reply. Thanks for your kind advice. Peace, Chris

Thank you soundog for your reply. It must be my audio-interface. The problem also accurs with other distortion/guitar-amp plugins. I've decded to not buy Native at this moment but first use a workarond with a separate hardware-amp-modeler, so I don't have amplify the (bad) inputsignal from my audio interface. Maybe when I have some budget I'll invest in Native + a new audio-interface. Thanks again for the reply!

A little off topic, but I found the Helix model of the Whammy pedal to be better than the simple pitch for that application. But I still generally agree with everyone else that the DigiTech pedals actually do a better job. The reason I figured this out is interesting and might help someone out if they ever get in a jam like I did. During a runthrough before a show, one of the screws that held the springs on my guitar's floating bridge broke and I couldn't tighten the other screw or the tuning pegs enough to compensate, so my guitar flat without any way to tune it the rest of the way up. The best I could do was about 0.6 of a step flat. So I set up a block with the Whammy model at the front of the signal chain and set the effect pedal so that heel down was a step down and heel up was neutral (no pitch change). I was able to get it roughly in tune, and it was good enough for the runthrough. I ran home to get another guitar before the gig though.

I’d put any pitch effect before the helix.

The Stomp seems to be known for having funny expression pedal issues. What's weird is that it worked for you before. It seems like it ought to be able to again. If the stereo cable is flashing "exp 1 active" and "exp 2 active" then that means the Stomp is currently setup so that it is seeing your movement of the expression pedal as a toe switch toggle. It's possible you can fix this by changing the global settings. Here's what I would try first: 1. Go into the "Global Settings" of the HX Stomp. 2. Global Settings > Footswitches > FS4 Function (Make sure this is set to "Expression 1." 3. Global Settings > Footswitches > FS5 Function (For now, set this to Expression 2." 4. Global Settings > Preferences > Exp/FS Tip - Set to "Expression Pedal 1." 5. Global Settings > Preferences > Exp/FS Ring - Set to "Expression Pedal 2." Test this with both the TS and the TRS cable. Does this stop the switching when you use a TRS Cable (it should)? Does it still bork out with the middle being 100%? If you are still having issues here, the last thing you can try is to reverse the polarity. To do that: 1. Global Settings > Preferences > Tip Polarity - Set to "Invert." 2. Global Settings > Preferences > Ring Polarity - Set to "Invert." 3. You can try to alternate between tip polarity being opposite from Ring polarity, but this would only matter if you use the TRS cable. If none of this works then I'd open up a support ticket and get Line 6's take on it. It's possible something about the new update messed up the functionality of pedals that used to work just fine.

Step 1: Select snapshot you want to be first. Step 2: Save You only have to save once. Now every time you select that preset, that specific snapshot will be selected.

Hi, I'm pretty new to Line 6 and this whizbang stuff (stombox guy from way back lol). Anyway I bought a used pod xt live, and my laptop is a windows 7. I couldn't get line 6 edit to work either until I installed 32bit java. You have to do a google search for it, the 64 bit wont work at all. If I can get it to work you guys can too hth good luck

I managed to get this permanently sorted for myself, sharing the tips so everyone else can avoid the same user errors I did. I am running a Surface Book 2, FYI. Firstly, it does not like being made to run high performance in clamshell mode, as heat dissipation is not optimal. This causes the system the throttle the CPU, in my case down to 0.8 gHz… meaning there was no longer enough processing power for real-time processing. Cue the emergence of clicks and pops. This is exacerbated by moving the power slider to “best performance”, which you need to. When not in best performance mode, the CPU frequency is throttled dynamically to conserve power. As it throttles up and down to meet shifting demands, it hits the point where real-time output suffers, creating the odd click and pop. Also, my CPU has 4 physical cores and 8 logical ones. Cantabile and Reaper identified this as 8 cores, and defaulted to running multi-threaded with 8 cores. However, because real-time processing is critical for audio, this actually resulted in more clicks and pops. Manually setting this to the number of physical cores (in my case 4), solved the problem. In summary: Clicks and pops were related to CPU throttling down due to heat, CPU throttling down due to power conservation, and the DAW trying to make use of all logical cores instead of all physical cores. Making sure your mobile system is sufficiently ventilated, your power setting is on “best performance”, and your number of cores is the same as your physical number fixed this for me. Previously, I was unable to run a single heavy load patch (drive pedal, compression pedal, 2 amps, 2 2048 IRs, stereo delay, reverb, chorus) without clicks and pops. Once I had all that sorted out, I managed to get 8 instances of that heavy-duty patch running at a buffer of 96 with 2 ms latency… Now I’m satisfied (also, embarrassed of my user error and pleased with having resolved it). Hope this helps anyone else who’s run into problems.

While I duly acknowledge that what I've done to two Relay G10's in modifying them must certainly void the warranty, in fact my modifications have greatly improved the reliability of these units. The modification consists of wiring an ordinary 5.6 millimeter power jack in parallel with the big electrolytic capacitor on the receiver board, and properly mounting that power jack in the enclosure. The mod also entails removing the mini-USB plug from the power-supply cord and replacing it with a power plug that mates with said jack. The USB jack is left untampered with, so (presuming it has not already been damaged) it can still be used with a USB cable to run firmware updates with a computer. To the best of my knowledge, the green wire and the white wire within the USB cable are not used at all by the power supply, and are only present for use in firmware updating and possibly troubleshooting. Because the solder joints on the filter cap are very small and hard to get at, and because the USB cable is somewhat too large in diameter to fit the power plug optimally, this kind of modification requires patience and craftsmanship. Cheers, Richard W. Faith

Not debating, as you are correct. Just including below why you are correct. For end user listening 44.1khz is plenty. It encompasses the entirety of human hearing. Humans hear in the 20hz to 20khz range, though as you get older, and depending on environment, as you become an adult that is reduced down to about 17khz. The 44.1khz has a freq range of 1hz to 22.05khz. That encompasses the entirety of human hearing including babies, and children. Anything more would only be noticeable in the studio with expensive high-quality equipment, and there is a large chance it won't be that noticeable even there. Also 12bit was cassette. 16bit was CD. 16bit is plenty for consumer audio. The only real benefit to 24bit, 32bit float, (or higher) is more headroom in the mix (in the studio) when the mixing/mastering engineers are still working on the project. When they get finished it will be out at 16bit, 44.1khz on a disc.

I think this depends on whether you are editing a FH tone on the unit, or one from "my tones". I.e. If you select a patch on the FH unit, edit it and then save, it will duplicate in "my tones". However if you start by selecting the tone from "my tones", edit and save, it will update not duplicate, however your tone on your FH unit will remain unchanged because you are editing the cloud copy only. This is obviously a bit annoying so I only edit and update "my tones". Only when I'm happy will I then save each to the FH.