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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    My ideal setup: A desk with a desktop or laptop computer. The Helix is connected (via USB) to the computer. A pair of good studio monitors connected to the Helix. This setup takes up minimal space and will sound good at all volume levels. Your computer will use the Helix as its sound card for playback (backing tracks!). You can even get into recording. Add to that easy access to tabs and tutorial videos from the computer and it's the perfect practice space. Notes: Studio monitors are "near field" speakers. You will want to be close to them unlike the PA type FRFR monitors (like Headrush). You can add an audio interface to the setup so that you can use your studio monitors with or without the Helix. If money isn't an issue, don't get rid of your tube amp. When I can be loud I still fire up my tube amps just for fun. Starting out like your, I would have had a hard time deciding between the LT and the Stomp but others have made a pretty strong case for the LT. All I can say is I have the LT and there is no way the Stomp would be enough for me now.
  2. 2 points
    1) Personally, for a new person getting into modeling I think it might be counterproductive to go with an HX Stomp simply due to the fact that the majority of video tutorials and presets you can buy or get free are going to be for the larger units and wouldn't work correctly on the HX Stomp. The most important functional differences in my opinion between the LT and the full floor unit comes down to two things: Durability and Flexibility. The Floor is built like a tank, but that may not be important if it's going to sit in the house. The additional inputs on the Floor are useful especially when it comes to recording or using external effects or additional inputs. If you don't see those things as important to you then the LT is the answer. 2) As far as output, be aware that you tend to get what you pay for in this area. I think it's silly to spend the kind of money one spends on a Helix and then attach the cheapest outputs you can buy because no matter how good the Helix is, it will always be limited by the quality of the output device. This goes for headphones as well. Probably the most often recommended heaphones among Helix users are the Beyerdynamic DT770 in the higher ohm configurations as they tend to be more consistent with what you get from good quality monitors. I personally own the 80 ohm version but many go higher that than. I own quite a number of different headphones but the DT770's are the only ones I use with the Helix. Given your situation you could go with studio monitors or live powered speakers. The real gotcha here is that in order to get the best representation of the sound out of the Helix with live powered speakers you really need to be playing close to or at performance level volumes due to the fact that's what they're designed to do and tend to be more affected by the way we hear things known as the Fletcher-Munson curve. If you do go with studio monitors there's a WORLD of difference between cheaper speakers and higher quality speakers in this area. Personally I have several different live speakers that I use. Mostly I depend on my Yamaha DXR12, but I've also used my QSC CP8 as well as my Electro Voice ZLX-12P. As far as studio monitors I use Yamaha HS-7's and have for many, many years. 3) The only real use for a headphone amp would be if you were to choose a very high impedance pair of headphones as the higher the impedance the lower the output. 4) Personally I think the whole "amp in the room" thing is way overstated. The fact is, the amp in the room experience is only heard by the person standing near a traditional amp and cab. Once you mic that amp and cab and send it through a PA or record it with a mic, you have the same situation as you have with the Helix. Audiences rarely experience the amp in the room sound. What is also a fact with traditional speakers is the sound varies greatly depending on where you're standing relative to the speaker simply due to the way they work. This is the reason why so much attention is given both in live performances and in the studio to what mic's are used and how they're placed on the cabinet....the same way it's done in the Helix when working with studio monitors or live powered monitors. What you're hearing using good headphones, studio monitors or live powered speakers is the sound you would hear on a production recording that you've been listening to your whole life or in every concert you've ever attended. The amp in the room only relates to what a musician hears standing near a cabinet. Even in concerts nowaday the artist rarely hears the amp in a room effect because they're hearing the mic'd up version of the sound through their in ears.
  3. 1 point
    (Bear in mind, this is coming from someone who loves mid-boosted, thick, creamy guitar sounds and is apparently the world's only fan of the Full Range/Flat Response system, but I really think what you're hearing is the "Classic Speaker" update. Everything with the treble above 2 becomes an unlistenable wall of static.)
  4. 1 point
    Honestly, I think what you're hearing is just the "Classic" mode on the speaker. It has an awful midrange cut and equally awful mega treble boost, I suppose in a failed attempt to make up for the proverbial boxiness of the 1x10" combo. I would recommend dialing in a preset you know very well and flipping the "Speaker" control back to "Full Range" – apart from a few peripheral updates, I think this 2.00 firmware is bogus as hell, and most people probably haven't even noticed that it automatically turns your maximum volume down to 78%, as well! You'll have to go thru all your presets turning the Volume parameter off, cause guess what: it doesn't recognize or save changes to the max volume percentage. Maybe it's good for the Remote app or something, but as a staunch straight-into-the-amp user, I think it's trash. Maybe some slight updates to the amp presets – I thought my Dual and Triple Rectifiers sounded very good last night, and my Bogner Überschall (i.e., Bomber Über) was screaming through the Brit 4x12 V30 cab, but everything non-basic-sound-related is basura.
  5. 1 point
    The Helix amp models have gain, channel volume and master volume (assuming the original amp is setup that way) so you can get some nice overdriven tones at pretty low volumes. A lot of amps these days - including your Blackstar and my Marshall, get their OD from the preamp, not power amp. Yes, they tend to sound better when the volume gets to a certain level, but it's not a requirement like it was with some of the non-master volume amps of the past. I sold what few pedals I had when I got the M13. So at this point I'm only using what's in Helix. Again, I'm not a big effects user so it's not like I have to have that certain pedal that's not included with the Helix. If you want to add pedals with the Helix you certainly have that option - either before or after the Helix, or within one of the loops. There are others on here that can provide better information on how to set this up.
  6. 1 point
    In a volume limited environment, how good it sounds is somewhat dependent on the Fletcher-Munson curve, which describes how our ears perceive sound at different volume levels. At lower volume levels the Low and High frequencies are attenuated. You may need to use an EQ to compensate. At lower levels, FRFR generally sounds better than a guitar speaker.
  7. 1 point
    Ideal? No. Will you hear something? Yes. Will it be good enough for now. That's up to you. One fun thing about using modelers like this is stereo. Try stereo effects, even through your TV. Chorus and Ping Pong delay are two that floats my boat. Add some reverb and pull up some NASA videos to watch while you play.
  8. 1 point
    There are a lot of guys that either run their Helix into the effects loop of an amp, or use something like a Seymour Duncan Power Stage into a guitar cab. You're still using the amp models in the helix (I use the preamp model in this case) so you're really not defeating anything. you're just powering it using a different source. You should at least try you Blackstar as while 5w is still pretty loud, you might be pleasantly surprised by how it sounds. Won't cost you anything.
  9. 1 point
    The amp and speaker(s) will change the tone to some degree, but that's no different than if you plugged your amp head into a different cab. Same thing with cabs and IR's in the Helix - you're going to get those nuances that a Greenback 25 gives compared to a V30, for example. An FRFR speaker is designed to be flat response so pretty much all your tone/characteristics comes from the Helix. I have a G12M-65 Creamback in my amp and a 1x12 closed back cab with a G12T-75 and really like the tones I get out of it with my Helix patches. However, if I'm using the JCM800 amp model, for example, it will sound somewhat different through my amp than it does with headphones, but that's because the speakers I'm using I'm my amp versus the cab/IR's I have in the Helix. Neither one is better or worse, they're just different.
  10. 1 point
    I personally like playing through "regular" speakers so monitors will be fine. And as I implied before. Just plug it in to your home stereo. See how that sounds before you pony up for some new monitors. It will definitely sound good for average playing/practicing and yes, it will sound different than an amp in the room. One of the things modelling is missing is the interaction between you and your amp. It doesn't have that, for lack of a better word "rubbery" feeling where you can kind of coax stuff out of your amp by changing where your standing or just vibrating the string a certain way. It's something that only the guitar player can "hear/feel" but I know what it is and modelling doesn't really have it. Doesn't mean you won't like what you hear, just know it will be very different.
  11. 1 point
    As mentioned above I would go with the LT. The Helix floor has a little more capability for recording, plus the extra loops, however, amps, effects, processing is exactly the same. The floor has scribble scripts (a little display above each footswitch), where the LT lists them in the display. I have the LT and am perfectly happy with the presets, effects, etc. shown in the display. I came from the M13 and quickly ran into the limitations of only having 4 effects active at once. Moving to the Stomp with only 6 was not an option for me. And I'm not one who uses a ton of effects or complex routing. Where the extra blocks come into play for me is using snapshots. Also, with the LT you can have up to 8 snapshots and the Stomp is limited to 3. The LT has a headphone amp so you shouldn't have any problem driving higher impedance headphones. I use the Sony MDR-7506 that are rated at 63 ohms and they sound really good. However, others on this site use much higher impedance headphones without issue. I don't fully understand the Amp in A Room vs. real amp, but I'm really happy with how my setup sounds and I have three different configurations. With the Helix LT connect in 4CM to my Marshall DSL40C: I have some patches that I use the DSL for tone (preamp and power amp) and the Helix for effects only (drives in front of the amp, time based in the loop). On some other patches I use a preamp in the Helix and then route the signal direct to the Effects Return of my amp so now the Helix is my preamp and effects and my DSL is just the poweramp and speaker. And then for recording direct, or headphone playing I have some patches that are all Helix: amps, cabs/IR's, effects, etc. All of this is done through the setup/routing in the Helix and I don't have to change any cables at all. It's an incredibly versatile unit.
  12. 1 point
    4. The Helix Floor can sound just like a real, vintage tube amp, by using amp emulation only (no speaker cab), then taking output from the helix into a simple power amp, then into a guitar speaker cabinet. You don't need anything fancy--I have built several 200w power amps from components available online for under $100. They sound great at home and on stage.
  13. 1 point
    In Global Settings>Ins/Outs set Return type to RETURN.
  14. 1 point
    I would consider the HX FX rather than the M13. It has everything the M13 has and more, and has a better future. In fact I have just ordered an HX FX with exactly this purpose in mind - replacing the HD500 in a DT-25 setup. I believe the HX FX presets can control the DT-25 configuration using instant MIDI commands but that remains to be confirmed (by me, at least. Others?)
  15. 1 point
    It should be as simple as that. The one thing you may want to check is the level of your amps loop, then set the Stomp I/O appropriately. Some amps are instrument level loops, some are line level.
  16. 1 point
    I have all three and gig with Helix and HX effects all the time. HX Stomp is for backup. The flexibility of all three with a Variax and Powercab 212 is hard to beat. I'm really enjoying both the flexibility and quality of tones. Line6 has really produced a wonderful ecosystem and set of complimentary products. Glad I stuck with them over the years.
  17. 1 point
    While I agree with everyone here that an HX Effects or an LT is a better choice for most people, to answer your original question, two Stomps play together just fine.
  18. 1 point
    They’re in pages 45-54 in the HX Edit manual: https://line6.com/data/6/0a020a4024285d8d400160c84/application/pdf/HX Edit Pilot's Guide - English .pdf#page46
  19. 1 point
    Yes, the Helix acts as a buffer. With 4cm you do not have to worry about cable length, within reason of course.
  20. 1 point
    I'll be that guy and say that the price increase made me appreciate my already-purchased Helix that much more :)
  21. 1 point
    FYI re: Helix and control of DT25/50: (as of Helix FW 2.82 and HX Edit 2.82) If L6 Link is connected, the DT25 disregards MIDI commands to the power section (Topology, Power Amp, Tube Config). This means the legacy Helix template preset 'DT25-DT50 Remote', which is programmed to offer footswitch commanding of the DT power section (via MIDI messages) *will not work* when the L6 Link is connected. So, be aware! You can, however, save 8 different power section setups (Topology, Power Amp, Tube Config) in Snapshots and recall them from the Helix over the L6 Link. You cannot (per my experimentation) command the DT25 power section via footswitch buttons (over L6 Link). Unlike most other parameters, the Helix won't let you assign these to a footswitch. In summary, using L6 Link, you *can* set up your Helix to give you DT25 power section variations at your feet, and that is (must be) done via Snapshots. This info was confirmed by both experimentation and consultation with Line 6 Support. Now you know (if you didn't already)! Since there are 8 Snapshots, but 16 possible combinations of Topology, Power Amp, Tube Config Topology (x4) Tight, Loose, ZNF, Resonance (I-IV) Power Amp (x2) A or AB Tube Config (x2) Triode or Pentode you won't be able to put every possible combination into a single preset. Attached are 4 preset files : DT25 cA 01.hlx 8 Snapshots of Class A setups, varying Topology and Tube Config DT25 cAB 01.hlx 8 Snapshots of Class AB setups, varying Topology and Tube Config DT25a cTri 01.hlx 8 Snapshots of Triode setups, varying Topology and Power Amp DT25a cPen 01.hlx 8 Snapshots of Pentode setups, varying Topology and Power Amp Enjoy! DT25a cPen 01.hlx DT25a cTri 01.hlx DT25 cAB 01.hlx DT25 cA 01.hlx
  22. 1 point
    Just a quick update…. I recently purchased a Variax 300 because I got it for a great price. Just took it apart and did the GHOST upgrade and thought I would share a few pictures. Now I have done GHOST saddles on 4 Variax guitars. I found that if you back the saddle all the way, then connect the wire, the service loop is perfect. On this 300 bridge, I used some adhesive copper strip to create the ground plane. There is a small exposed ground area on either side of the 8-pin connector. I folded a tiny amount of copper strip over and soldered the copper to that ground area. Sorry, I didn't get a before picture. I drilled an access hole in the circuit board that lines up with the very front of the slot in the bridge plate to run the wire through. from top to bottom. I hope this helps someone here on the forum. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.
  23. 1 point
    Here is a video I found of what your bridge should look like Sergio. https://youtu.be/9itJCmOZC-k This is a video that shows how to change to a new bridge, but it gives a good view of your existing bridge and circuit board. Looks like you could attach the hot wires to the same location as the existing pads. All the grounds could be attached to the common ground pads where you see the green wires attached.
  24. 0 points
    You bet I will! I don't want a madman determining how much I have to pay for my guitar modeler!
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