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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/14/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Nope, it's not new, and it's only confusing because whenever a post gets made about it, people who don't quite get it muddy the waters by talking in philosophical circles instead of taking 10 quiet minutes to understand how it works. For posterity, here is what's going on, again, from top to bottom. If you have questions after this, please read it again. First, let's talk about real-world analog pedals and amps: (1) First, we need to understand that input impedance (represented by Z) is a property of a circuit. Everything you plug your guitar cable into has a certain input impedance. Every pedal you've ever used has a certain input impedance. (2) Some pedals like fuzzes have LOW input impedances (e.g. 10 000 Ohms aka 10 kOhm). Some other pedals have HIGH input impedances (e.g., 1 000 000 Ohms aka 1 MOhm) (3) The input impedance of whatever your guitar is directly plugged into affects the sound of your guitar's pickups. This is because your pickups become part of the circuit, and the input impedance interacts with your guitar pickups to create what is essentially an analog low-pass filter. (4) If your guitar is connected to something with very HIGH input impedance, it will have no noticeable filtering, and will sound bright with all of the treble frequencies passing through. If you connect your guitar to something with LOW input impedance, the combined circuit acts as a low-pass filter, which attenuates treble frequencies. The lower the input impedance, the more the treble gets attenuated. (5) Ok, given #4, why would we ever want a low input impedance for something you plug your guitar into? Well, many old-school effects like fuzzes don't sound or feel 'right' without their low input impedance chopping the treble frequencies out of the input signal. Low input impedance is generally an undesirable thing for a guitar input, but at the same time it's essential to making some pedals/amps sound the way we expect them to in the real-world. (6) The interaction of guitar pickups + input impedance applies to the first thing your guitar is directly plugged into. If you have a pedal with 1MOhm input impedance first in your chain, and then a low-impedance fuzz after that, the fuzz won't sound right because your guitar is 'seeing' the 1MOhm impedance, not the lower impedance of the fuzz. Likewise, if you have a buffered pedal first in the chain, this will also behave as if your guitar is plugged into a high input impedance. (7) If you have a true-bypass pedal, and it's in the bypass state, then the input impedance of the NEXT pedal in the chain is what your guitar 'sees.' This is because a true bypass is basically like adding some extra length to your guitar cord and connecting it directly to the next pedal. Ok, now let's talk about how the Helix models input impedance: (A) The Helix/LT/Stomp have a variable input impedance circuit on the guitar input. This means there is an analog circuit on the input which can be switched through many different values of input impedance. It can go from 1 MOhm all the way down to 10 kOhm. This isn't a digitally-modeled effect -- it is an actual analog circuit that loads the pickups. (B) If your guitar is plugged DIRECTLY into Helix's guitar input, then your pickups are loaded by this analog input impedance circuit. If you have things in between your guitar and Helix, then those things determine the input impedance seen by your guitar as described earlier. (C) Every model within Helix (amps, pedals, etc.) has an input impedance value internally coded into it. No, you can't look at the value anywhere, but just understand that a 70s Chorus pedal has a 22 kOhm input impedance, and a Scream 808 has a 230 kOhm input impedance, and so on. These internally-stored values are based on the input impedances of the real-life pedals. (D) The internally-coded input impedance of the first block in your signal path sets the Helix's input impedance value by default. In other words, if the first pedal in your signal path is a 70s Chorus, the adjustable input impedance circuit will be set to 22 kOhm. This input impedance still applies whether that effect is bypassed or not. This behavior is realistic for pedals that aren't true-bypass, but is unrealistic for pedals that ARE true-bypass. Like it or not, that's how it currently works. (E) You can override the auto-adjusted input impedance by choosing a fixed value for it in the input block of your signal path. The parameter to adjust this is named "Guitar In-Z." The default value is AUTO which behaves as I described above. You can manually set it to any value you want, and that will be the new input impedance of the guitar input circuit no matter what is in your patch, and no matter their bypass states. (F) The outcome of the default Auto behavior is that if you have a pedal with low input impedance (e.g. Industrial Fuzz) first in your chain, and you bypass it, then whatever is next in the chain will sound darker, because it's behaving as if it, too, has a low input impedance. If the next thing in your chain was an amp, it'd sound like the amp's instrument input circuit had a 10 kOhm input impedance, which no amp will likely have in real life. Again, this behavior is how real-life pedals without true-bypass behave. This behavior is not how real-life pedals with true-bypass behave. (G) Line 6 chose to do it this way, and some people disagree with that. If they'd chosen to set the Auto-Z based on the first non-bypassed pedal in the chain, some people would be happier and some would probably not like it that way, either. If this really matters to you and is causing problems, you can either (1) manually set the Guitar In-Z to a fixed value; or (2) link the Guitar In-Z value to snapshots, and then manually set the value you want for each snapshot along with the bypass states of your pedals; or (3) link the Guitar In-Z to be controlled directly by a footswitch rather than snapshots, and then assign that same footswitch to toggle the bypass state of your first pedal. If you have plenty of DSP to spare, you can also split your patch into multiple inputs with different values and mute/unmute them, but that's a pretty brute-force approach IMO.
  2. 1 point
    @qwerty42 Thank you very much for the detailed explanation and write up. It helped me set up a test to confirm what you have said is accurate and also that my Helix appears to be functioning normally. Not sure why my initial test (in my first post) setting the impedance to 1M didn't work. I may have made a mistake or maybe the setting didn't take? Who knows. Anyways, this is the test that confirms everything seems to be working properly: Setup: Guitar-->Cable-->10k input Imp (or Auto Z if arb 1st in chain) -->arb fuzz -->Amp (Architype Clean)--->dual path of Ownhammer (r)Evolution IR's-->Merged--->delay-->reverb Result: This sounds wonderful. This may be the perfect fuzz amp, or at least the best on helix I've found so far. Set the gain near 8. Cleans up nice with guitar volume rolled down, just like the real fuzz face is supposed to do. Sounds best with passive low output pickups. Doesn't sound as good with active pickups or high gain pickups. Test 1 Bypassed Arb Fuzz 1st in Chain: SnapShot1) Guitar-->Cable-->10k input Imp -->bypassed arb fuzz -->Amp Result - Sounds muddled and terrible. SnapShot2) Guitar-->Cable-->1M input Imp -->bypassed arb fuzz -->Amp Result - Sounds fantastic. All highs back. Lot's of shimmer. Makes me smile. SnapShot3) Guitar-->Cable-->Auto input Imp -->bypassed arb fuzz -->Amp Result - Sounds muddled and terrible. Auto must be staying at 10k. Test 2 Deleted Arb Fuzz: SnapShot1) Guitar-->Cable-->10k input Imp --->Amp Result - Sounds muddled and terrible. SnapShot2) Guitar-->Cable-->1M input Imp --->Amp Result - Sounds fantastic. All highs back. Lot's of shimmer. Makes me smile. SnapShot3) Guitar-->Cable-->Auto input Imp --->Amp Result - Sounds fantastic. All highs back. Lot's of shimmer. Makes me smile. Test 3 Moved Bypassed Arb Fuzz after Amp: SnapShot1) Guitar-->Cable-->10k input Imp --->Amp-->bypassed arb fuzz Result - Sounds muddled and terrible. SnapShot2) Guitar-->Cable-->1M input Imp --->Amp-->bypassed arb fuzz Result - Sounds fantastic. All highs back. Lot's of shimmer. Makes me smile. SnapShot3) Guitar-->Cable-->Auto input Imp --->Amp-->bypassed arb fuzz Result - Sounds fantastic. All highs back. Lot's of shimmer. Makes me smile. Test 4 Simple EQ (no adjustments) 1st in Chain, Bypassed Arb Fuzz 2nd in Chain SnapShot1) Guitar-->Cable-->10k input Imp -->Simple EQ-->bypassed arb fuzz -->Amp Result - Sounds muddled and terrible. SnapShot2) Guitar-->Cable-->1M input Imp -->Simple EQ-->bypassed arb fuzz -->Amp Result - Sounds fantastic. All highs back. Lot's of shimmer. Makes me smile. SnapShot3) Guitar-->Cable-->Auto input Imp -->Simple EQ-->bypassed arb fuzz -->Amp Result - Sounds muddled and terrible. Auto must be staying at 10k. It's clear to me now that the first effect in the chain does in fact set the Auto impedance value. I think the tests also show that the bypassed fuzz when not first in chain doesn't affect the signal. It's unclear to me why this didn't work when I first tested. The only thing I did notice in this series of testing is that the Auto Z setting doesn't not automatically change sometimes, for example, if I have the bypassed-arb-fuzz and move it after an effect with a higher impedance, the Auto Z doesn't change automatically to match the newly positioned first in the chain, until something else is changed, such as switching the snapshot to another then back or actually adding an effect before the arb-fuzz. Those force it to change but it could be perceived as a sound quality issue if someone doesn't recognize the Auto Z wasn't forced to change. I think this only happens if the chain content isn't changed, such as just shuffling effects around, until it's forced to change. Anyways, thanks for all the responses everyone! It looks to me the best solution is using snapshots to manually change the impedance between 10k and 1M for the effect I used.
  3. 1 point
    Hi, I' have upgraded the firmware of my Helix Rack to version 2.92 without using Line6 Upgrader, as just said Datacommando in this message. Helix Edit detects automatically if your Line 6 does not have the latest version and guides you step by step during the upgrading. It's easy and secure. Thank's. Regards. Helix33
  4. 1 point
    Very interesting question.Yeah, what rd2rk said would be the simplest way of going about it if you were able to somehow split between two discreet paths. I also see a more sordid/complicated method of possibly assigning multiple effects to the expression pedal - but not using the two presets you showed specifically. All that aside, the first question that pops into my mind is that - if you COULD do what your asking with these two specific presets, would the mix in between even produce a sound that's desirable? One can't automatically assume that it would and without doing it I suppose you'll never know. I'm not sure what DSP allows in this case, but if you could simply move the last reverb from each preset (the one's in the lower signal paths) to it's upper signal path respectively, and then create a new preset with the clean in the upper path and the Dist in the lower, then you could assign the expression to blend between the two. But you may have to sacrifice at least one effect block from the upper signal paths of each preset in order to do it (due to DSP limitations). Lastly, with the last update, there's a lot of new possibilities using the "command center". Someone else might be able to shed light on that as I haven't had time to explore as much as I'd like. But I think you can now assign a foot-switch to automatically change back and forth between two presets so maybe instead of assigning this to a foot-switch it could be assigned to the expression pedal. I don't know.
  5. 1 point
    Great, all inclusive explanation! This is indeed one of those subjects that gets brought up repeatedly. I've taken to saving my explanations in Notepad files so that I don't have to re-type them over and over. This particular explanation deserves a sticky! Oh, wait, nobody reads the stickies.....
  6. 1 point
    And thanks for the extremely detailed lesson, Qwerty. It feels so weird to be 37 years into a guitar career and somehow not knowing this stuff. I've never been a vintage gearhead, or even really that much of a pedal freak so I just never had to deal with any super drastic effects like that.
  7. 1 point
    BTW, I edited my original post once I realized why I had only *just* encountered this problem.
  8. 1 point
    Wow, this is all new to me as I've primarily giggled with my Variaxes or used a wireless so I've never run into this until tonight. Just now I put an Arbitrator in front of an Essex 30, and to me the bypassed sound is just unusable. I don't remember ever encountering this before but likely because maybe it's just possible I never used a regular pickup guitar cabled into the guitar input and wanted a patch where I could kick fuzz on/off. I literally thought this was a bug and was about to file a bug report when I did a search and found this thread. Maybe in 37 years of playing, I just never ran a real tone-sucking impedance pedal. This is crazy! I feel like my world just got turned upside down and like "How the hell have I been a professional guitar player for 33 years and never had to deal with this?" My guess because I used wirelesses a lot, and likely pedals that just didn't have as drastic an effect as a Fuzz Face, I'd guess. And then I switched to Line 6 stuff from their first product (the AxSys 212) and Variaxes as soon as they came out. For now I set up a whole separate second path now which seems unnecessarily complicated for just wanting to toggle a fuzz on/off with no gain/tone loss, or setting Input Z manually and I'm guessing compromising the fuzz tone.
  9. 1 point
    Not two completely different presets, no If you had two completely different tones, Clean on Path A and Distorted on Path B, you could assign an expression pedal to fade one out while fading the other in, but each tone would need to fit entirely within it's own discreet path.
  10. 1 point
    I would like to interject at this point that your success in the amp modeling game will be equally depending on your choices for the output system you use as it will for the modeler. This is THE most commonly overlooked aspect of modeling. Investing in a high end modeler and then trying to save money on an output system is probably the most common situation that frustrates new users. I'd say set aside enough money and time for serious consideration of both if you don't want to be disappointed.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    I use a novo 32 Big enough for the helix and expression pedal a b9 a KOT and my wireless I'll post a pic
  13. -1 points
    if it sounds ok into the speakers, but not so ok when you add a mixer before the speakers.... obviously the mixer is the problem
  14. -1 points
    I didn't catch that part (other than for his low B string). I just saw that it sounded amazing direct to the speakers.
  15. -1 points
    so, basically... you had a phase issue
  16. -1 points
    6 years of whining... solved in 1 month
  17. -1 points
    Always remember just one thing about this 'worse product ever'... I am the one with the Grammy.
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