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  1. Oh, maybe preamp and full amp model blocks are only an option in Helix. Sorry, I know nothing about Pod Go yet, other than the great videos Paul Hindmarsh has posted. In Helix, you have a choice of a full amp model block, meaning both the preamp and power amp sections are modeled, or just the preamp. You would generally use a preamp-only block if you have a tube amp you are plugging into that is going to provide the power section "color", like the Line 6 DT25/50 or really any Mesa, Marshall, etc. If you are plugging into a guitar amp that is neutral and intended for use with modelers (Line 6 Spider Valve, PG Bias Head, Fryette Power Station, Duncan Power Stage, Katana maybe, others), then you would use the full amp model blocks generally. Reading about the Katana and the Tube Logic power section, I'm guessing that the "Tube Logic" tech may be able provide some of that tube power amp feel and coloration if desired. If you can't disable it on the amp or software, you may be double-dipping on the tube-ness if using a full amp model (not just preamp model) which can be unpleasant...like too much icing on a cake. I found it best to neutralize the amp as much as possible and let Helix or other modeler do all the work. Personal preference and experience though. Helix also has cab model blocks (and can use impulse responses / cab models). It looks like the Katana is using a somewhat traditional guitar-type speaker and maybe not full range (not sure though), which can color a sound as well. So using the modeler's cabinet models through a traditional guitar speaker is kind of double dipping on the coloration as well, again could be unpleasant. But all this is generally easy to check with some experimenting with the modeler and A-B tests with the amp and headphones.
    2 points
  2. There are many listed in the link below and an inexhaustible supply to be found on the web.
    1 point
  3. Uhm. You are likely about to enter the biggest rabbit hole of the ultimate tone hunting crusade in the digital realm. For a start, check out Line 6's freebies, the "Allure Pack". They are available here: https://line6.com/allure/ Then there's a free Marshall 4x12 pack from Redwirez, you only need to sign up for the newsletter, I find these excellent for any kind of typical rock sounds: https://redwirez.com/ York Audio has a teaser pack for $1, a Mesa 2x12 with V30s, IMO they're quite nice, not just too much variety, but that might even be a good thing: https://www.yorkaudio.co/product-page/mes-212-v30-limited If you want the ultimate rabbit hole for free, look up Seacow Cabs (no, I don't post a link - because in case you're just starting out, these will be complete overkill, seriously!) And if you plan to spend some bucks, here's another list: http://dshowmusic.com/impulse-responses-for-line-6-helix/ Some of these sites offer free teasers, but again, I really don't recommend to jump onto too many of them in case you're new to this. There's also a plethora of threads about free cab IRs on pretty much any guitar oriented forum, but the same as above applies - it's just too easy to completely get lost. You might as well try out the two IRs attached, I created and mangled them myself, but they're nothing impressive, they're made to suit my live playing needs (I think they're good as an alround cab suitable for pretty much any amp - at least that was why I created them). Gen_01.wav Gen_01_bright.wav
    1 point
  4. One difference on how IRs and cabs can be used with HX devices is that cabs have many parameters such as selecting different mics or their distance. These parameters can be switched from snapshot to snapshot. You can achieve a similar result by swapping out the entire IR used by the snapshot. Just different ways of getting there.
    1 point
  5. A preset knows to use an "IR" because an IR block was used rather than a Cab or Dual Cab block. When the IR block is placed into the signal chain you then configure that IR to use one of the IR's you have loaded into the 128 available slots for IRs in the Helix which tells the preset which one of the IRs will be used for that preset. Generally speaking an IR or a Cab block are interchangeable. The difference being in a Cab block you have to do all the work of configuring which mic or mic combination is being used, how they are placed on the cabinet, and a number of other relevant factors...all of which can be changed at any time to vary the sound. An IR, on the other hand, is already preconfigured with that sort of information so it's just dropped in with no additional configuration info needed. I personally prefer IRs simply because they are quicker and a lot less work than cab blocks.
    1 point
  6. Good luck with this and good on ya for running the test. At least you have eliminated one possible cause which is what troubleshooting is all about.
    1 point
  7. Hi, I'm sorry but I don't know the answer to this specific question, unfortunately. Some have reported that simply having a Disk 0 which shows up as 'online' in the disk listing is enough, without it being the drive that the OS is installed on. I haven't actually had this problem on my own systems, so I can only speak via the information that others have provided. If the disk 0 fix doesn't work, near the end of the thread that @HonestOpinion linked, there's a different fix someone posted which might help: https://line6.com/support/topic/49342-hx-edit-281-and-helix-native-starting-with-with-a-blank-screen-and-crash/?do=findComment&comment=331452 Edit: quick question -- it is HX Edit you're having issues with, right? Not Helix Native? If it's the trial of Helix Native and that won't start, I've seen that issue too and that's one I can help with. It's a different fix.
    1 point
  8. Wanted to repost this link I posted above as it will actually walk you step by step through how to resolve this issue if it is a "disk 0" problem. Actually a fairly painless way to resolve this. Of course there are other reasons it may not be working but this one is easy to check for. Here are the relevant parts of the fix provided by Camelot_One's excellent troubleshooting. "And this is really easy to check: open a command prompt as Administrator and type the following commands: DiskPart List Disk You should get a list of the drives in your system. Look on the left for the Disk number and make sure the list starts at Disk 0. It doesn't have to be the drive your OS is on, it just needs to show up as Disk 0 and show a status of Online. When my Storage Spaces drives are detected first, my drive numbers start at 1 or above, Drive 0 isn't listed at all, and HX Edit/Native won't work. I am able to consistently reproduce both the problem and the fix by shifting the bios drive detection order. I think what is happening is that the software does some sort of quick hardware detection at startup, and gets hung up if Disk 0 isn't online. (The emulated Storage Space drive will show up as a separate, higher Disk number) I suspect the same problem might occur when the first disk is part of a RAID. So if DiskPart doesn't show a Disk 0 with a status of Online, go into the bios and try to re-order your drives. On my ASRock Z390, I was able to do this by just disabling both SATA controllers, restarting, then turning them back on. That shifted the NVME drives to the front of the line, with the SATA storage spaces drives at the end. (Note: this is the drive detection order, NOT the boot order) You could also try changing the physical port your drives are connected to. Or if all of your drives are part of a storage space or RAID, you could try adding another drive to the mix."
    1 point
  9. Sorry. I was refering to the actual pedal (Mimiq) not the Helix's Double take. I see the Mimiq wasn't being directly discussed. I still think it has to do with randomly changing a delay in mseconds although it may have some modulation thrown in has well. I've used it once and was actually impressed by it (The Helix's). Much better than what the Vetta amp had (I can't remember the name.)
    1 point
  10. There are no dumb questions :) I wish I had access to a POD Go.... I'm looking through manuals but don't see anything written out clearly. My hunch tells me that "full amp model" includes the preamp, power amp and cab, while "pre amp model plus cab" is likely just the preamp and cab, no power amp modeling. The power amp modelling has settings like "sag, bias, x-bias, etc... etc..." Ultimately, you will want to avoid power amp settings and a cabinet/IR if you are going into the power amp input on a Katana MK II.
    1 point
  11. Hi. The firmware, doesnt only destroy the battery life, but also make the charging process extremely unstable. I got the same red flashing crap for days, (no way to charge), then started charging again, then stopped again...etc etc. It's the firmware that injected a dumb communication code, with the goal to avoid full charging of the batteries. Believe me, as I had this on 2 G10 units, and tried to live with it for 4 weeks, but it will get worse with time. At some point, charging was impossible on both units. Open a ticket wont solve anything, as they will send you another one, with same problems. If I were living in the US, I would have started a class action against L6, but unfortunately Im in EU. For sure, what they did, isnt legal. Anyway, get rid of it, as soon as you can, and move to a different brand. Good luck.
    1 point
  12. Yeah, I remember watching this before. It's really damn close.
    1 point
  13. So anyway - the physics of speakers is very well understood. dispersion wise, any multi-speaker cab, or multiple cabs, with speakers outputting the same frequency range of the same signal, will result in beaming (directionality).... the longer the cross sectional area in any one direction, the lower the frequency the beaming starts in that cross section (and it continues into high frequencies). So a 212 cab has some very serious beaming of midrange frequencies on one direction since the total distance of the moving speaker from outside of one speaker to furthest outside limit of the other speaker is probably going to be like 24 or 25 inches (end to end, and often 2 speakers have 3 or 4 inches between them), and beams in the other direction (90 degrees or 270 degrees from the first sample) much less so since the cross section is roughly 11 inches (most 12" speakers are not 12" moving diameter). 412? bad in both directions. pa speaker with one main speaker doing most of the output, crossing to a horn at high frequencies? even at all frequencies covered by the main (10", for example) speaker... and better dispersion up high because of the improvements in using properly designed tweeter. 10 speaker has good disperion into higher frequencies than a 12" speaker does. IF you can get one that is very sensitive and has super high power handling and is built strongly and sounds even over it's range... ....then a PA speaker that is 10" with horn, and with a loud power amp, can easily be as loud as a 412 guitar cab. Power handling is in the design - not the size of the cone. Efficiency sort-of also in design, but larger cone and more surface area do make a speaker louder... and 4 speakers is louder than 1 or 2.... so the cab has to work much less to make that same level of sound - but the 110 pa speaker may well be able to do it. There are plenty that can't do it - and bass (guitar or drum or keys) output at high level is WAY harder to achieve and might blow up a 110.... for guitar, there are some amazing 110s, like the headrush frfr. Major brand, 1000 to 2000 watts (peak) amp, high efficiency speakers?? It's a no brainer - it should be outstanding. Bi-amped speakers have used weak amps for tweeter and big amps for woofers for several decades, actually... but some designs do benefit from having the same output power for each since there are some INCREDIBLY high efficiency PA 10", 12" and 15" speakers out there now, where in the old days the tweeter horn was always way more sensitive than the woofer and needed less power... these days, the power output isn't so dramatic. Yes, without low frequencies there is for sure a difference, but there are readily available 2 channel super high power amps these days that make biamping with the same power output for tweeter and woofer a good cost decision, while it never hurst the marketing material to sum the outputs and say "look, we have 3 killowatt speakers!"... when in fact it's a tweeter amp that peaks at 1500 watts max but would fry the tweeter if it ever did that much output, so its output level is cut to match properly. Marketing drivel, eh? it's annoying - you gotta read between the lines. Still, I'd say that would make a pretty outstanding FRFR speaker. NOTE: nearly all FRFR speakers are NOT flat response... listen to some videos where they compare FRFR speakers - they all sound dramatically different. It shouldn't be that way, but it is. They're just flatter than guitar cabs, is all. So you may have to use global eq after to get your tones to match what you're used to, by probably cutting some highs, some presence area, and possibly cutting lows a bit too. Global EQ is best for matching your FRFR's quirks to how you think it should sound... (like compared to line out into recording studio board through very truly FRFR studio monitors in a treated room that has had frequency analysis and correction done to it).
    1 point
  14. I have 2 G10s, I unfortunately upgraded them both. Their battery life after upgrade is almost useless (less than 2 hours). Before the upgrade they would last 6-8 hours of play time easily. Line6 you have to resolve this!
    1 point
  15. You can use the HX Stomp alone with headphones and don't need your amp.
    1 point
  16. You need to update HX Edit to the latest version as well as the firmware. You were using the old editor. That’s why the IRS weren’t showing up.
    1 point
  17. Yes, the firmware completely destroyed the battery life on both my G10. One, the older, went from average 6 hours, to barely 2 hours of life. The other one does last 3 hours max. After this, it’s all a mess of nonsense red/green blinking while charging.. As for the heat, never had a problem. I upgraded because I got scared by the warning message they spammed everywhere. I cant believe they did a such awful move without properly warning customers. Anyway, who’s paying for the battery replacements?
    1 point
  18. I saw your post while trying to fix a similar problem. This worked for me: After I installed all the latest upgrades to the drivers and the editor, I restarted the system then followed these steps. 1. Open System Preferences in OS X Catalina 2. Select "Security and Privacy" 3. Select the "General" tab 4. Look at the bottom for an alert about system software prevented from loading 5. Select to allow software from Line 6 6. Open POD HD500 Editor 7. Connect the POD to the USB Done! I hope this helps!
    1 point
  19. Here's how I got it to work with my Variax 600 and X3 Live on Windows 10. I downloaded everything including Java, but as soon as I started Variax Workbench it said that it required JRE 1.6.0, 32-bit in order to work. I installed different versions of Java but nothing worked. The breaking point came when I finally realized that it said 32-bit... So... during the install of Workbench you might be given the option to download the latest version of JRE. You need to SKIP THIS. This is where I got stuck. You will be sent to a download link that installs the latest version of your operating system. If you, like me, have a 64-bit system, that is what will be installed. But Variax Workbench requires 32-bit and will not work with 64-bit. NOTE: Variax Workbench and Workbench HD is not the same thing. Download Line 6 Monkey on https://line6.com/software/. It's available for Win 10. Download Variax Workbench from the same place. NOTE: You need to choose Win 7 or 8 to find this download. Download JRE 1.6.0 32-bit (Java Runtime Editor). https://www.filehorse.com/download-java-runtime-32/6037/ Install all mentioned software. I don't know if order matters but I installed JRE last. Run Monkey, log in and see if you need any updates. Run Workbench and enjoy. Hope this helped!
    1 point
  20. used it for 2 years without any problems, and just updated the 1.05 firmware yesterday, and now my G10T won't be charged anymore (The pulse red light forever) That's mean if you update to the lastest firmware, that is the way you throw out your Line6 G10 because it will become useless after that.
    0 points
  21. -1 points
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