Leaderboard

A while back I linked to a cheapo trick of using a guitar wireless transmitter/receiver as a wireless IEM. That one was mono and a bit clunky, but works pretty well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXTZNY5Ta-o I saw a stereo transmitter, so I thought I'd try it for this application, since I'd like my nice lush choruses & reverbs to come across in stereo. I tried this one, but there are a few different versions around $40: https://www.amazon.com/LEKATO-Wireless-Transmitter-Receiver-Rechargeable/dp/B08FDQ2VHW Results: It's ok. Kinda meh. Here's why: 1. This model doesn't have a headphone out jack like the mono one in the first link; it has stereo 3.5mm plugs (with 1/4" adapters). I used a 3.5mm "gender bender" to plug in my headphones, and the plug folded up out of the way nicely. The problem is, the output is much lower than the mono model. When you crank up the output of the Helix's headphone out to get more volume, you start to clip the transmitter. So it's ok if you listen softly or have very efficient headphones, but not if you want to crank it up with less efficient ones. This makes sense; it was intended to drive an instrument input, not a set of phones. 2. Both the mono one and this one have about 14ms latency (I split the signal and measured it on my audio editor). That's ok to my ear UNTIL you add in the latency from any wireless transmitter you're actually using for your guitar. My 5.8GHz transmitter has 7ms latency (I measured that, too), so together they're over 20ms. This is ok for slow picking or strumming, but once I start chugging it gets a bit bothersome. I'm not sure why it didn't bug me when I tested the mono model. Maybe I was using a cable to feed the Helix. Maybe I had less coffee that day. I dunno. So, no free (or cheap) lunch. Given what's on the market (and my PC desk!) now, it seems to me that a 5.8GHz stereo IEM with 7-ish ms latency should be possible. I'd buy one if it were under a hundred bucks.

ground loop...so is the computer a laptop or desktop? if it's a laptop, the buzz might might get better if you run on battery. Another thing to try is insure that the amp and computer are on the same grounded circuit and the ground is actually a good ground. Or if they are on the same circuit, try putting one of them on another circuit. reverse direct box....So another way to isolate the tube amp (or some other ground loop sensitive device) from the computers is to run thru a direct box backwards with the ground lifted...You would need a 1/4 TRS to female XLR...then just a normal 1/4 1/4 patch to the amp.... AVR - Automatic Voltage Regulator power supply....You could put your amp or the computer on one of these. The benefit of using a transformer on the power is that it makes ground loop impossible.

Nothing to do. The Split block splits the main stereo signal into two stereo signals. The Mixer block mixes the two stereo paths back into one stereo path. Since IRs are Mono, the two stereo paths are now one mix of two Mono paths, but post Mixer is still stereo until you add another Mono block. If you add a stereo block post mixer, you've got stereo. Control the level of IR1 vs IR2 either at the IR blocks or at the Mixer block. Control the placement in the stereo field at the Mixer block.

This is not up for debate in 2020. install the 64 bit system unless your computer cannot handle it.... which would be a very old computer. There is no benefit to running a 32 bit system any longer... it's time to move forward! 32 bit programs will run on 64 bit Operation systems. The only issue that can occur is if you have old (very, very old) devices (printers, scanners, audio interface, etc... etc...) that don't have 64 bit drivers.

Hi, It was not my idea but try this, it`s work for me. macOS 10.13 and 10.14 has implemented an additional security layer for kernel extension drivers, such as the Line 6 audio drivers. After the Line 6 device is connected, the customer must open the Security Control Pane and accept the Line 6 driver in order for the device to be recognized. Typically, but not always you'll see this message when your driver gets blocked, or is not available for use with your DAW: However, sometimes the driver gets blocked and the message won't appear. Your driver and hardware simply won't work. In either case, you'd need to approve the driver in System Preferences > Security & Privacy: Additional information about this change can be found at https://developer.apple.com/library/content/technotes/tn2459/_index.html#//apple_ref/doc/uid/DTS40017658 For some cases if the "Allow" button does not change anything, or the "Allow" button does NOT disappear after clicking. Please try these steps: Go into: System Preferences > Keyboard > Shortcuts > Select 'All Controls'. Then: Go back to System Preferences > Privacy & Security > Press 'Tab' until 'Allow' is selected > Press 'Spacebar'. Note: the Privacy & Security page may need to be unlocked before 'Tab' will work.