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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/19/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    So here's the thing with Warmoth... if you buy one of the "in-stock" necks, you'll save a considerable chunk of change, but most of those will already be pre- drilled for a Strat. If you have them build you one from scratch, you can opt to not pre-drill for the mounting bolts, but not only is there an up-charge for not drilling the holes, the whole thing will probably end up costing ~25% more than one they've already built, and it's a much longer wait. Fortunately, it doesn't really matter. You can buy a neck that's already been pre-drilled for Strat mounting bolts. Only one hole is offset on the Variax body... the other three will line up just fine. So that one hole will have to be doweled and re-drilled (it's too close to just drill a new hole and leave the existing one) but this quite simple to do, and even if you don't trust yourself to do it, any competent local tech/ luthier can do it in their sleep, and it's not expensive... you'll spend less money doing this than the extra $ it'll cost you to build one from the ground up. Either way you choose to go, Warmoth makes great stuff. I'm not affiliated with them in any way...but I've had probably 5 or 6 of their necks on various guitars over the years. I've also built both Strat and Tele "parts-casters" from Warmoth necks and bodies, and they're two of my favorite guitars. As far as I'm concerned, they do Fender better and prettier than Fender does, and for 30-50% less money depending on how figured/ exotic the piece wood, the finish you choose, etc etc.
  2. 2 points
    Adding to what Cru is talking about, a picture is worth a thousand words. ; )
  3. 2 points
    You should also be able to import presets (multiple simultaneously if you wish) by drag/dropping them into the Helix Native preset slots.
  4. 1 point
    Got me reminiscing about my first impressions when I received my Helix. The qualities you mention are certainly in there but that is definitely not what struck me initially. As a matter of fact I had to acquire some knowledge and experience with not only how the Helix worked but also how it interacted with my monitoring system and PAs before I was truly satisfied with the sound or "feel". What struck me initially was the incredibly well designed user interface, the I/O options, scribble strips, and the sheer potential of the system. It was also abundantly clear that flexibility was a prime directive in the Helix's development(with the exception of lacking multiple routing splits). You could use any combination of pedals you wanted, if you wanted three delays and five EQ blocks, that was up to you. You were not forced into using only a pre-designed set or order of pedals with a rigid allocation scheme for available DSP. That was a really appealing approach to me. Also felt like it was a high quality device, built to last.
  5. 1 point
    Helix does not have an internal amplifier. To use it direct you need powered speakers. To use it with guitar cabs you need an external amplifier. Duncan Powerstage amps, Quilter, any PA amp (not optimal) or the various tube poweramps. A guitar head with an effects loop allows you to send the 1/4" out to the effects loop return. Of course, you're always going to sound like that power amp through those speakers, since you probably don't want to use cabs/IRs on Helix when going that way. Using cabs/IRs is what powered FRFR speakers like the Headrush FRFR108/112 or L6 Powercabs are for..
  6. 1 point
    Couldn’t have asked for more helpful answers, cruision2 and spikey, thank you! Now back to the original programming... or not. :-)
  7. 1 point
    I know it’s a rhetorical question but .... I think you, like me, fell in love with the rich sound and dynamic response of the new Helix modeling technology. That existed in V1.10. The rest has been lots of additional models and very cool bells and whistles.
  8. 1 point
    Isn't this normal with acoustic IR's? Unlike cabinet IR's I find acoustic IR's should just be lightly blended in... I don't think I have any as high as 20-25%. In fairness, I do not own any 3 Sigma IR's... but I do own a few others, and I made a batch of my favorites from my Fishman Aura and even with the Aura hardware I never ran the blend very high.
  9. 1 point
    Sure, no problem. Have a look at the attached patch, snapshot1 (STRUMMING) (it should be the default one if I have not made any mistake while saving). The IR that I use with this is Taylor 612 piezo 1a. I am also attaching a short audio file to give you an idea of how it sounds like for me. It is the raw track with no postprocessing recorded in Garageband. Important: while recording this I kept the "high" eq slider on the guitar preamp relatively high -- that's where most of the highs are coming from; mids and lows are neutral on the preamp. This tone has some chorus, reverb and delay, and I am going for a slightly scooped sound to fit in an acoustic/electric song. YMMV. acoustic.hlx acoustic.mp3
  10. 1 point
    Sure - but still, that amount of DSP power is "reserved in any case" as you can still activate the global EQ on even the most maxed out presets. And as far as multiple global EQs go, that's really not necessary. The option to save presets would be sufficient.
  11. 1 point
    https://helixhelp.com/release-notes
  12. 1 point
    Sorry, but imho, that "feel" you want is the "amp in the room" which is accomplished by having a real guitar speaker pushing a certain amount of air. Nothing else.
  13. 1 point
    It is now a month since we were told not to update our iPads if we want remote control of the M20d because of an incompatibility. Presumably if we do update we loose the remote control option. The App Store is still reporting version 1.21 from Aug 31, 2017 as being the current version. It there any news about an update to fix this? Is anybody working on it? Are there any plans for anybody to work on it?
  14. 1 point
    Hey guys, I was trying to solve this as well and to be really sincere, best way to do it is just moving the input jack... hahaha That's pretty simple once the input jack / PCB is only held by the front nut. I replaced by a dummy jack (just to look the same) and I created another hole on the rear panel to install the input jack (can you notice which one is the new one? hahah) Ps. use a rubber/plastic nut to separate the chassis to the input jack. Easy and now all my cables are hidden!
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