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After troubleshooting possible power problems, S.O.P for wonky Heli is to do a factory reset.

If this has never happened during practice/rehearsal and does not happen again my first suspicion would be poor power or a loose power connection on the device or at the wall at the venue .You can always get a power conditioner as a preventive measure for the future.

There is no way (and has never been a way) to switch presets and have the tempo retained (on just one preset) without setting that setting to Global. However you are correct... when you do that ALL presets pick up on that tempo. What you are eluding to an is "auto save" function... and that have never existed in the Helix line. (to my knowledge) Are you sure you are not talking about retaining tempo when switching "snapshots".... for that you just need to set the global snap setting to "recall" instead of "discard". Then you can change snapshots all you want and the new tempo will be retained..... BUT once you change presets and come back it will load the "saved" tempo once again.

Let me start with the amp.... I've owned two Hiwatts over my career... and the Helix NAILS IT, but not with the default settings. . Crank the master setting in the amp up to 10. Raise the mids to about 9 Raise the DRIVE to about 5-8 for humbuckers, 7 - 10 for singles coils. Adjust to dirt level tastes. Leave the other "amp" settings. Now the cabinet The internal 4x12 Fane Who Watt cab is great... it's the default MIC that is not! Change the mic setting to a ribbon.... I use the 121, but all the ribbons are great. Set the distance to 5" Set the early reflections to about 50% Too me.... that's a Hiwatt Tone I am very used to and is extremely dynamic to touch and guitar volume. A bit of grit, but not too much. Of course.... adjust to your tastes.

As we all know, snap shot naming is not something that Pod Go yet has though hopefully Line 6 will be adding this in a future update. But one of the great things about Pod Go is that you can create a whole range of different tones from a single patch, and use snap-shots to switch seamlessly between them, as well as using the stomp mode to switch fx on/off. It's an immensely powerful piece of kit, and for fun a few months back I was playing around with the idea of a single patch that might cover a whole gig. I posted the patch on line 6 Custom Tone here: https://line6.com/customtone/tone/5101684/ I recorded variations from the same patch with a single guitar - my Patrick Eggle Berlin Pro that has humbucker and single coil options. The idea was to have a single patch where I could go from one extreme to another - from funk & jazz cleans, to glassy cleans (ala 'Pretenders') to light crunch (ala Wishbone Ash) right up to classic rock (ala Led Zeppelin and even Rush type tones). So I was wondering if anyone else had experimented with the same thing and if so I thought that just to make a change from the usual Pod Go queries it might be interesting to start a thread where folk could perhaps share their gig versatile patches with sound bites too. So, if you got 'em, please do share 'em!

I had a recent problem with my Spider Valve MkII HD100 head - it would randomly switch channels for no reason. I removed the shortboard and took all my effects out of the effects loop and the problem still occurred - about every10 seconds it would switch channels a couple times. I spent some time searching/reading forums to see if anyone was reporting similar problems. I saw two things Thermal problems with the HD100 MkI Someone suggested that if you play loud, sometimes the vibrations can cause the amp to think you are moving the knobs - suggested turning all the knobs to zero. I decided to take the amp apart and inspect it. Nothing seemed obviously wrong, but I hoped that disconnecting and reconnecting all the cables to the digital section might magically fix the problem. No such luck. Problem still existed. I decided to turn all the knobs to their zero position - I wasn't playing loud, but had nothing else to try. BINGO! Turning all the knobs to zero and the problem went away. I played for about 20 minutes with no phantom switching - previously it would switch every 10 seconds. A little more investigation, and I noticed that when I moved the Drive or Bass knob, the channel would switch. Looks like some cross talk between the first three knobs (first 3 knobs are Channel, Drive, Bass - in that order). None of the other knobs cause any problems. So now the amp is usable - although I am a little hesitant to use it in a gig. It still doesn't work right, but I don't actually use the Drive and Bass knobs much if at all. QUESTION #1 - anyone seen phantom channel switching like this? QUESTION #2 - anyone got any suggestions for how to fix the problem I have with the Drive and Bass knobs causing channel switching? Note: I bought another HD100 amp so I can play gigs. I had to buy it used since they don't make new ones anymore. Huge bummer because I think this is a fantastic sounding amp - and great for me since I play in a cover band and I need a versatile amp. QUESTION #3 - if they don't make the HD100 anymore, what is the replacement in the Line6 product line? Jack

I just this morning came across a really nice setup with the WhoWatt. I generally use somewhat the same guidelines mentioned above on the amp setup, but by accident I stumbled across using the Matchless G12H30M25 speakers in a Redwirez IR using a Neumann U47 2 inches off the cap edge with my Strat Elite which uses Gen 4 noiseless pickups. What a GREAT dirty blues sound!!! Sometimes you just never know where you'll find gold!!!

My best advice is to avoid 80's power ballads if at all possible.

I have two of the HR108's I've had for over a year now and they are great. Use for practice, rehersal, monitors, etc. Very versatile and affordable. The stereo effect has been fun to learn as well. I am not making a living or gigging so take my opinion in that context. I highly recommend them and it beats the crap out of hauling a around a 4x12 and head or even a 1x12 and a head.

You need to set the BPM setting under Global Settings to Global in order for it to work like you’re describing.

I think there is a benefit in suggesting that people read the manuals when the question pertains to basic information that is contained in the manuals. Of course there is much more benefit in consulting with other users here about more detailed information not contained in the manuals, or about more complex product usage and configurations - information not contained in the manuals. I know that people learn differently and Line 6 provides many video tutorials in addition to manuals. Those who don’t learn well via text should definitely take advantage of those videos. But here’s the thing.... by asking questions here in this text-based forum a person has already accepted that they will need to read the answers in order to learn. So whose authorship and writing would be best to learn from? On the one hand you have the manuals, written by technical writing professionals in a clear and concise manner with information that is virtually guaranteed to be accurate. On the other hand you have a written response from a non-professional writer whose information may or may not be accurate or thorough and is almost certainly presented in a less clear and concise manner. That’s why I recommend the manual for basic information.I will continue to do so, though some consider it rude, because I believe it’s the best way to learn for those who want to read.

There is rumor that direct light on the optic sensor can disengage it from functioning properly. I was playing an outdoor gig and mid way through, I completely lost sound. The PodGO was fine when I got home, but rendered useless at the gig. Is there any work around on this?

I never paid much attention to the WhoWatt, thought it sounded kind of lifeless. Your settings bring it to life! It's not an amp that lots of people use, so it's good to hear some suggestions from someone who's owned them. Thanks!

Thanks codamedia. Me kinda oldie also likes this kinda info for starting point to patch-building.

Thank you very much for this. I wish we had more favorite settings from folks who have actually owned the amps. I've dialed in the Helix amps to my liking but someone who knows them well can show me (us) settings we might not have thought of as you just did here.

Hi, There are no Line staff here and only very occasionally do they visit these forums - See the “sticky comment” in the black banner stripe at the top of this page entitled “Why is Line 6 not responding” This link is where you need to go to have any hope of it been seen by anyone from Line 6: https://line6.ideascale.com/a/index Before posting any new ideas, please do a search to see if it's already been listed. Multiple requests for the same thing will thin out the votes. Also, post your ideas one at a time. Many users don’t vote for combined suggestions. You should use this thread to let other users know what your suggestions are, with links to IdeaScale, so they can vote on it if they wish. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, Should be simple enough to patch your Ditto looper into the second send and return on your HX Effects. You will need to decide where you need to place the FX send and return in your signal chain. It will most likely depend on what effects need to be added to the signal before going into the Ditto. I have a Ditto x4 (among others) which I use with my Helix floor. I sometimes have the “amped” guitar with any overdrive effects into the looper and added delay and reverb after the Ditto. There are no strict rules with this stuff - just use whatever works for you. Hope this helps/makes sense.

I'm a bit of the grid so late to respond. Thanks for the various input. It sounds like the Head Rush would be the way to go and not to expensive. Thanks!

++ on the Alto TS308. Both myself and my fellow guitar player in my band use them.

I have had a pair of Alto TS212 monitors for about 4 years that are still working great for me as monitor for the Pod or as a little PA when I need it for that. I think the current model is TS312.

Here's mine. Really just the Sennheiser Wireless XSW-D and my Yamaha THR100HD Amp footswitch. With the lid on... Made from the leftover timber from these.

First I haven't tried the Line 6 Powercab but I own a Laney LFR-112. It's a great frfr with a more classic guitar cabinet look (If you don't turn the LED on;-)) I have owned Alto TS-210 keep blowing that up and it's sound was lacking. I have af Yamaha DXR10 and the Laney LFR-112 now. I can say that building my sounds on the DXR10 at home and bringing them to rehearsal to my Laney I don't have to tweak anything. I love my DXR-10 and can certainly get a "amp in the room" fell with either cab and just as good sound with the Laney. The 100 watt DXR is pretty much matched by the 500 watt Laney loudness wise. So as mid priced cabs goes I really would recommend both Laney and DXR10. I'm considering the LFR-212 for gigs with lacking PA. I have used my cabs with Amplifier, AX8, Stomp and Floor and they all sounded great thru the cabs. I play mostly hard rock and I play loud:-) and i'm matching the band without the PA to boost my sound. I used to use a 100 watt tube Marshall amp with a big 1936 2X12" speakers. The Laney is moore bulky than the DXR10 and weighs moore. So conclusion: I would certainly recommend Laney LFR-12, what a great bang-for-buck frfr.

There are very few pieces of gear I own for which I would give an unconditional endorsement - everything has pros and cons. In any case being unrealistically enthusiastic isn't helpful to yourself or to others. The LFR112 is exactly what you would expect - a well made, reasonably priced guitar oriented monitor speaker with a pretty flat response and plenty of level for rehearsal. If you want a =perfect= translation from your studio monitors to your stage monitoring solution you're going to have to spend quite a bit more so be prepared to tweak. Would I buy it again? Yes. Might I buy a second for stereo? Possibly. Would I have bought some Matrix gear had I £2k handy. Probably!

Hello. I have been playing surf since its birth. Yep, I am that old. Yes, the Stratocaster would be preferable over the Les Paul. For surf you want the clean crisp single coil sound. Jazzmaster and Jaguars are number 1. Stratocaster is fine. Most play on the bridge pickup. I do not a guy who likes the middle pickup. However, in general, go with the bridge pickup. You want a clean tone. No distortion. The amp model that comes closest would be the red twang. That model is based on a later blackface Twin Reverb. Not perfect, but darn close. Close enough to my older Showman. You will need to tweak the EQ settings to suit your taste and to fit the song you play. Start with bass at 5, mids at 7 and treble at 6. You want to simulate the sound of the old Fender Reverb Unit (I do play an old 61 tank). So set the control to spring reverb put it just above middle (say 6/10). Outsiders (not really surf players) think you max the reverb. You do not. That would muddy the sound. You want it wet, but not drowned. You really don't need any other effects. You can try them to see if you like adding them. But clean with some reverb is the fundamental surf sound. Now for the Shadows, turn down the reverb. Maybe around 2/10. For Hank's sound you need echo. Not sure which one of your choice will get you there. Could be tape echo or maybe delay. My gut says try the tape echo first. Most important for this sound is to master the tremolo arm. Hank is the wizard of the tremolo. He gives it a warble that is darn hard to duplicate. If you want to learn more about playing surf guitar, please check out the Surf Guitar 101 forum. We have a great bunch of guys and gals there, everyone from absolute beginners to old hacks (like myself) to some of the best surf guitarists on the planet. The gang is pretty good about helping beginners. We want to keep surf alive so we welcome new folks. SG101 is really a good place to browse around. Everything about surf guitar you could want. https://surfguitar101.com/ Later, Norm