Leaderboard

The hx stomp only has a try stereo send so I didn't have a break out cable for that, only had a trs to trs patch lead and the aeros has a trs stereo aux in so I just went with that way. I just checked and the aux in was set to inst not line so that could be the problem. Il do some tests tomorrow. Thanks for the reply man

This is all that ever needs to be said on this topic... no matter how many times it repeats itself. The "quick fix" for leveling patches that we'd all love to have ain't coming. Period. And above is the reason why. Particularly when it comes to clean vs. dirty patches, matching the final outputs to some arbitrary dB level is an exercise in utter futility. The crunchy tone will always seem louder than the clean at any given measured volume. The perception is all that matters in the end... and perception is anything but universal. No algorithm is ever going to be able to account for that fact. Individual adjustments will always be necessary. This "problem" will never be solved with anything but one's ears and the save button.

Is it just me, did I do something wrong, but the new 3.11 update, the slider paths for parameter adjustments are now gone. I liked having that. Where did they go?

I also prefer the old look but definitely not one of those issues that I feel adamant about. Glad you opened a ticket though as it may indeed have been an unintentional change in the 3.11 firmware.

I suppose you could do this in a relatively simple fashion by having some kind of auto-adjust function that modified the level at the Output block such that all the presets/snapshots would have the same output level. That at least would sidestep the issue of changing the gain to various blocks upstream which would definitely change their tone/operation. You would still be left with at least three problems/variables though. Firstly there is potentially the issue DunedinDragon alludes two which is that unless you gain stage all your blocks to unity the second you activate/bypass a block your levels would change anyway. Secondly, Fletcher-Munson - just because two presets have the same output level does not mean that their perceived loudness would be the same. The third issue would be how the modification in the level might impact your monitors downstream. Still, I could see auto-leveling on the Output block being useful in sort of a broad brush way, especially if it could dynamically account for volume changes caused by activating/bypassing blocks and getting a smooth transition doing this would probably be difficult and possibly require some not wholly insignificant processing power. Ultimately it would still require further user adjustment to truly get your presets and snapshots sounding level in relation to each other.

Yeah, everything works okay and the grey track bar could be argued to be just a purely aesthetic thing, but I had grown used to it visually as a way to kind of let me know where I am with the parameters without always looking at the numbers. I use the numbers with certain things obviously like frequencies, etc. If I had to chose between the two, the older style was more to my liking and feels more like a DAW. But c'est la vie I suppose. I will get used to it. Just glad it was not something wrong with the software. We'll see what the ticket brings.

I have just got back into the studio and opened HX Edit, and you're correct - the grey track bar are no longer visible in the editor. It doesn't in any way interfere with how it works, purely an aesthetic thing. Until you pointed it out I hadn't noticed, and I am possibly only interested in the numbers and the sound rather than have it look pretty. There is no mention of any changes to the visuals in the Pilot's Guide for HX Edit Rev.Q(v3.01,) and even though areas of the text may have been updated to reflect HX Edit and Firmware update procedures, the screen shots of the HX Edit GUI remain the older style with the grey track bar. Probably didn't think it was worthwhile, or possibly an oversight. Ho hum, that's progress I suppose. Unless, of course, it is an actual "bug" in the editor. As you have submitted a ticket for this maybe you should flag it up in the bug report section of this forum and see if that goes anywhere. Hope this helps/makes sense.

@HonestOpinion This is the answer I was looking for. Yes. I am speaking of the grey track bars in the background behind the sliders and they are missing in 3.11. (alphanumeric numbers are still there, just did not capture them in the picture). I knew this must be it because the grey track bars were there right in front of me when I was doing the update and then they disappeared when the update was complete. However, since I thought maybe something was wrong in the system, went through the whole process of what datacommando was saying above. Sometimes, we are not crazy and L6 just dis something stupid. I know the track bars are not essential, but it was an environment I have been used to and I think this version looks really odd.

I had the aux in set to inst not line so that could be the problem. Ive promised my wife attention tonight so I won't be able to test until tomorrow. Have you tried plugging the guitar directly into the aeros input (eliminating the stomp send)? This works fine, I just really want the loops to have a delay/reverb tail at times when I stop or delete tracks ( great for ambient looping) Ive had it for about a week now so haven't had too much time with it, ive had many loopers including software so im pretty savvy to the loop world. I find the midi maestro is kind of compulsory. So far I love it, its not perfect which I can explain more tomorrow but the developers are working on a new firmware to be out hopefully soon which will make to a better workflow, I do appreciate how they listen to the things I have suggested in regards to track locking and a few other things (loop decay and fades) etc...ask any questions you like and I will answer tomorrow ...

In case you missed it guys ! Yes, I can talk ;) I don't feel comfortable doing this but was asked to - and it's a good thing :)

@Wondo100 Sorry not sure if you are talking about the alphanumeric values at the right side of the sliders which seem to be missing in your screenshot(I can confirm they are still here in HX Edit 3.11) or the sort of greyish tracks(bars) that used to be the background behind the sliders. If you are talking about the grey tracks don't bother reinstalling or resetting, they are indeed not there in HX Edit 3.11 or at least they don't show up on my screen. I suppose the bars might still be there with perhaps some color value that was changed that affected the contrast making them effectively invisible(at least on my monitor) and although the old look might arguably be superior depending on your aesthetic I find it doesn't matter to me much one way or the other. Good catch though, hadn't noticed them missing until you posted.

I should update this before replying to your questions. I've changed my setup a bit! I now run my guitar into a Samson MDA1 direct box (low cost, excellent quality), which splits the guitar signal. One of those signals goes to the Stomp input, the other (XLR, which also powers the Samson) into Apollo input 1. I take a mono wet signal out of the Stomp into Apollo channel input 2. When tracking guitar, I monitor the wet signal for inspiration (through Apollo headphones, mixed with my DAW output), but record the dry/Apollo 1 guitar signal. @vanb777, this gives a more robust guitar track level that I'm used to and can control; the Stomp USB record level is also too low for my liking (I adjust Native's input level accordingly). And, yeah, I now monitor the guitar with headphones into the Apollo. All my audio ins/outs (and headphones/monitors) are controlled through the Apollo; keeps things more manageable.

Submitted ticket. Tried everything and it sill will not work.

Yes. I am familiar with the procedures. Factory reset done. No problems on the hardware unit. Restarted the computer. Also, did a hard shut down of the computer. Uninstalled HX Edit and reinstalled HX Edit. Still, same problem. No slider paths just the slider. Not to my liking anymore. I need that reference of the slider path. This sucks as a ticket does not always yield results. I wonder if I am the only one experiencing this.

The update process is mostly automated now. It's very straightforward, really. You begin by downloading the HX Edit v3.11 software installer package from the Downloads section of this website (See tab at top of this page. Select HX Edit from the drop down menu in the middle field - All Software - ). Execute the downloaded installer program to perform the installation, including all per-selected components. Then run the HX Edit program with your Helix device connected via usb. Log into your Line 6 account from within HX Edit; see 'My Account' tab at the bottom right of the HX Edit window. You should then be notified that an update is available for your Helix firmware. Follow the instructions exactly to install the update. If something goes wrong or is confusing just come back to this thread and post your experience describing where things are going wrong in terms of the instructions. Note that, contrary to your belief, you can update directly from your current old firmware, per this comment I copied from thev3.11 Release Notes: My Helix/HX is at version X.XX. Can I go straight to 3.11? Absolutely, but note that if you're starting with a version lower than 2.80, the update will appear to happen twice. This is normal.

Hi, Don’t Panic - It is very rare that a glitch in the firmware will actually turn your device into an paperweight. I will assume that you have read through and tried all the suggestions posted here, but let’s just give this one more go around. I keep saying that I will stop doing this, but here we go again. Once more from the top! You don’t mention what your computer and OS are, but I will guess Windows plus the routine should be the same for Mac. Also you don’t say what version firmware you had installed and or if you have updated firmware previously with success. Firstly go to the "DOWNLOADS" menu at the top of this page and from "-ALL HARDWARE-" select HX Stomp. Leave the "-ALL SOFTWARE-" menu item as it is, now select your Windows system or Mac OSX from under the "-ALL OS-" tab, then click “GO”. On the next page you will find the first 3 items you will need. The Line 6 Updater v. 1.23, along with HX Edit 3.11 for your HX Stomp and then you will need the Firmware 3.11.0 Flash Memory. Download all these items to your computer and note where they are. Then: Remove all previously installed Line 6 software from your computer especially the Windows drivers and then restart your computer. Make sure to turn off the power to your HX Stomp. Unplug the USB cable from the computer and the Stomp. Power up the Stomp while holding down “PAGE >”. This puts the hardware into “Safe Boot”- Update mode. (NOTE: Should doing this give you a completely blank screen, you should still be able to re-install the firmware again.) Leave the HX Stomp powered up. Now you can install the latest HX Edit v. 3.11 (with all the drivers) Reconnect the USB cable to the Stomp and your computer - Do not use a Hub. (Some USB ports on the front of a PC can act as a hub, so use one on the back). Ensure that HX Edit is closed and also shutdown any other background tasks, screen savers etc., also disconnect from any internet services. You don’t want anything to interfere with this installation routine. Now, find and launch the Line 6 Updater Utility and select "Offline Mode". Your HX Stomp and current firmware version should now show up in the window, click on the dark green coloured band and you should now have the option to select a local file - point it at the Flash Memory file you downloaded and let it get on with the update. When it completes your HX Stomp should restart and go through rebuilding the presets after which, you can launch the new HX Edit v.3.11 software and you should be good to go. No guarantee is given or implied - you do so at your own risk. If this fails, contact Line 6 Customer Support and raise a ticket. Hope this helps/makes sense.

There's also this: https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/line6-helix.1586637/post-32680304

Try this... https://helixhelp.com

I've poked around and haven't been able to find the answer to this, which I assume is common knowledge in general ... I am trying to use a few external stereo pedals in the fx loop of my Pod Go and not having luck maintaining their stereo capabilities. Can someone point me in the right direction? I'm using TRS cables but I'm guessing there's a specific cable that goes in/out of the Pod Go and splits into two cables so it can go into the L/R of both the I/O of the external stereo pedal that I need to use? Thanks in advance.

yes you need what's called an "insert" cable. it's just a Y cable, stereo jack to the pod go and two mono to the fx. for both send and return of course. then set your loop as stereo. should work actually.

Hi, First thing to try is hold down Foot Switches 2+3 while powering up the Stomp. This should perform a “Factory Reset”, then from there you can try the update again if necessary. I can see that the Stomp is on v2.71 and if you are trying to update to v2.92 you should have be aware that there was a major change to the Helix Core Operating System at v.2.8. The firmware release notes mention that at a point about 50% through the update the Line 6 Updater displays a second dialogue and the LCD reads “Boot Failure. Entered Update Mode” THIS IS NORMAL. I don’t have a Stomp, so I’m not sure if that message is shown on the unit’s screen, but I think that this is probably what has happened to your box. Hopefully the Reset should fix it but, if it doesn’t you could try powering up the Stomp while holding down “PAGE >”. On a Helix FX box this puts the hardware into “Safe Boot” mode. NOTE: This option is not documented in the regular Reset Options for the Stomp although I have read that others have had this keypress work for them. Should doing this give you a completely blank screen, you should be able to re-install the firmware again. No guarantee is given or implied - if you decide to attempt the Safe Boot routine, you do so at your own risk. If you’re using a Windows PC check this thread for a comment about doing offline updates. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Well, I managed to fix my own problem and for the benefit of anyone who might have similar difficulty in the future I'll explain. My version of Native version was outdated (1.0) and I was trying to import presets that contained elements from newer versions. I installed the latest version available and voila! All fixed. Yes, this was my bad, but in fairness, a little consistency from Line 6 please. I've had my Helix floor unit and editor for a while now so I'm no stranger to the whole general concept. I understand there must be certain software developer limitations, but I shouldn't have to spend a half a day of my valuable time trying to simply find where the settings menu is in order to find out what version I have. Even that was in a ridiculous place and hard to find once I found the well hidden settings menu. The manual is of no help because it was for a newer version and everything was changed. To add insult to injury, when I went to the Line 6 download page and punched in Helix Native for Windows 10 it told me there was no software for that criteria. Whaaaaaat? Fortunately, I happened to see in another location a link to read more about the new version of Native. Line 6 I love you. But pleeeeeze quit trying to satisfy the constant and never ending begging for updates until you're ready. You keep spitting out updates faster than the rest of your team can follow. And when you do come out with something new, quit making unnecessary changes to the basic format indiscriminately. Be more consistent between platforms and just because you can change something doesn't mean you should.

Dear Line 6, We would be honoured if you could even just acknowledge our anxiousnesses about this. Many of us here genuinely love your hardware and our patience has been, by far, exemplary. I hope you agree that it would be only fair if you could address this pebble in your shoe. Many thanks, no diatribe. A

That's a really sneaky territory. You know, when it's about describing tone and sound with just words, in the context of subjective hearing spectrum and personal taste, variables are so many that sometimes it's like playing ping pong with 12 balls... Anyway, one of the thing to consider when using the Helix, as any other modeler, is that isn't trying to replicate an amp in the room, but a recorded/mic'ed system, to be listened through hi-fi, or FRFR speakers/monitors. This is already throwing into the equation everything above the typical 5.5KHz range of a guitar cab speaker, and sometimes may happen that our ears aren't liking stuff ringing too much above that area. So, first thing I'd try is to shape the high freq range to limit and/or remove stuff in the far right of the spectrum (I'd say above 7Khz you can start dropping, unless you are using Helix with non-guitar instruments, like a synth or similars). Also check your guitar signal is robust at the input and first stage of the path, keeping a good amount of headroom. A typical path to tone harshness is when you try to push a weak guitar signal (through gain, or multiple cabs, or doing a bad gain staging) trying to bring back some tone thickness, but there you are also pulling from the floor tons of noise and unpleasant harmonics because of hard clipping. My 3C. :)

Hmmmm, Im not sure I do believe that video. Im tempted to overlap the A with B and do a phase test... ;)

Whhaaaaaat? Oh my god, this is getting more intricate than watching Interstellar in reverse play...

Well, while I do agree about the difficulty to describe a sound with words, we do also have to agree that (given the personal taste) hearing is a subjective experience. Not sure if you ever did an audiogram test, but as with speakers, we do also have our own "frequency response", and we are all different as humans, due age, high volume damages (yep, it's a serious thing between gigging people), etc etc.-. Also, when you are getting older, you start developing specific frequencies notches (typically on top of 4Khz), and an early falloff on both edges of the spectrum. This means you may want to pull more highs to compensate your hearing perception, while a young folk would perceive this as way too much. Same on the bass side. This is something people tends to ignore, but it's a fact... so yeah, I do tend to believe (or at least Im not bashing them) these folks that are hearing stuff that Im not, and viceversa. You could easily test this, "hiding" a generated tone above 8KHz@0dB SPL, in the middle of a guitar signal - and see how many will spot it. I do always suggest my friends gigging musicians to do an Audiogram, at least once a year. ;)

Helix doesn't accept/work with TRS cables and exp pedals. The EXP port does only listen for tip and sleeve. You either need to mod the medal, or the cable, to make it a TRS to TS, isolating the Ring.

Not sure what's the message here. I do have the Stomp, and Rack too. If you have a TRS pedal, and you use a TRS/TRS cable, straight into the Exp port, it won't work. It will go 0/100/0. Pedals in Helix must be TS, but since 99% of the market is TRS, you either need to mod the pedal, or the cable, as I did for all my TRS pedals. Said that, not sure that's the problem with the OP, as he should still get 0 to 100 to 0. Just trying to help, like you.

Oh yeah! Who's reading the manual in 2021? :D

Ok im confused now. In the OP you said it's a Moog Exp Pedal, which is a TRS/TRS. Now it's a M Audio, which is a TS pedal. Hard to help when things arent clear enough. Still not clear if Helix or a HX stomp... Anyway, if it's a Moog Exp Pedal, like the EP3, you just need a Y Cable, TRS to TS/TS (like pic 1), and a custom cable with TRS on a side (that you'll plug to your exp pedal), and a TS on the other side (that you'll plug into one of the two TS female from that Y cable). The custom cable it's just a TRS cable with the ring wire cut and isolated on the TS side, and only Tip and Sleeve properly weld to the jack terminals. This worked for me 100% of the time (even with few TRS Expression knobs) , so I guess it should help your situation too. Then, if it is a M-Audio, it should work as it is. STILL, if it's a HX Stomp, you need that Y cable.

I tried that, but for me doesnt work. I mean, if I connect a TRS pedal, straight into EXP port, does the 0/100/0 thing, even with all properly setup as the manual. Manual isnt clear if the example it's using a TS pedal or a TRS tho... a bit foggy.

Bought one from another brand for the HX Stomp (pretty much same design concept), and removed after 48Hrs (sorry, I'm not saying is bad product/idea, but imho is overdone for the purpose).... I did find extremely difficult to dial with all the rotary and buttons, half buried down that thick piece of plastic. Also one of the rotary was touching the edge of the plastic while rotating (since that rotary doesn't always perfectly rotate within its axis), and that scratched the knob a bit. Then, I do have cats, and just after two days there were lot of cat hair trapped between the cover and the Stomp... Much prefer just single protective films for the display. At the end of the day, the LCD is the most sensible area, imho. Anyway, if some EU guy here (no UK) is paying for shipping, Im happy to give you for free (costed me 35£ + 15€ of Custom fees). :)

A good practice, that always worked for me, is to download and study the manual (which are all available in pdf for every modern pedal in the market), before to buy new stuff. Also cheatlists are good help. This way I do get two advantages; 1) If Im gonna buy it, I will already know good stuff as soon as it arrives new home, so I can start messing with it, out of the box. 2) Manuals are telling you what's doable and what's not, so that's enough info to decide if buy or not buy. In this specific case, you also have a trial of Native, to experiment the details, and the sound of everything. We do live great times. :) Works for me 90% of the time.

If you download the trial of Native, you can test all the combination you'd like to test, using the plugin in compatibility mode. The only thing that you can't test are FX Loops, as they are hardware, but those are basically DSP free. It's LOT OF FUN, and does really give you a realistic overview over the hardware counterpart.

Hi, Display on the top isnt same nature as the scribble strips. A scribble strip has a very strong backlight, also leaking on the boundaries, while the main display looks like a dim lcd. I do have the same output as your on my Helix Control. Never seen one with main display bright as the strips, I dont think it's possible. Even in promo shots, the difference is evident.. Mine;