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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/04/2021 in all areas

  1. "The first rule of Mac hardware and/or OS upgrades, if you rely on them for music production is: DON'T, UNTIL THE DUST SETTLES. The second rule of Mac hardware and/or OS upgrades, if you rely on them for music production is: DON'T, UNTIL THE DUST SETTLES..." -Tyler Durden
    2 points
  2. Regarding those factory presets which doesn't make any sound, aren't they named as "4CM:..." ? If they are, you need to hook the stomp up using 4 cable method. You can find details from HX Stomp manual.
    2 points
  3. Lol…do you have this in a folder to copy and paste? Thanks. I’ll check it out.
    2 points
  4. Here's what works for me, and tested on a stage multiple times. Basically I dialed in an additional distortion block. Whenever my guitar doesn't feed back by itself, I engage a certain snapshot, and it starts feeding back musically. I played on a pretty big outdoor stage and had no issues whatsoever. I use that special feedback snapshot sparingly. Like at the end of the phrase, or right before coming in to convey this "amp about to explode" sound.
    2 points
  5. I still like the sound of Pod Farm 2.5 and there are a lot of amp models which are not available in Helix Native. It´s very easy to create good sounds and the amp models look nice. Are there any plans to update to a resizeable GUI and add some new gear ( more cabinets & mics ) ? The stand alone version doesn´t work correctly with my Zoom UAC-2 audio interface. It seems that the +18dB button (which is not visible) in the mixer is turned on in stand alone mode. Therefore the output level is way too loud. Can this be fixed ?
    1 point
  6. Do not pass go, do not collect $200, and place this notion directly in the crapper where it belongs... Pitch shifting just barely works playing a solid body, unless you're turned up loud enough to avoid hearing the guitar itself acoustically... with an actual acoustic guitar, you can forget it. You'll hear both the guitar and the shifted signal, as will everybody else in the room.
    1 point
  7. No…I didn’t try those ones out yet. These were FX, and DI. But thank you for trying to help.
    1 point
  8. Oh, yes - lots of variations for different hardware units, plus Windows and Mac OS, all in Notes on my iPad. It became somewhat tedious having to continually re-type the reset, re-flash for all the firmware updates and USB issues. I still try to edit each for any particular instance. Hope this fixes your HX Stomp, but in the unlikely event of this being a hardware problem, then you will need to contact Customer Support. Good luck. Edit: More suggested reading for you - especially the section headed “Anything else I should know?”
    1 point
  9. This is re-post of a firmware re-flash instructions from months ago, when this was a regular chore. Also, I recommend that you become familiar with all the reset options for your device, and the best place to find the info is here: https://helixhelp.com Don’t Panic - It is very rare that a glitch in the firmware will actually turn your device into an paperweight. Let’s just give this one more go around. I keep saying that I will stop doing this, but here we go again. Once more from the top! Firstly go to the "DOWNLOADS" menu at the top of this page and from "-ALL HARDWARE-" select HX Stomp. Leave the "-ALL SOFTWARE-" menu item as it is, now select your Mac OSX from under the "-ALL OS-" tab, then click “GO”. On the next page you will find the first 3 items you will need. The Line 6 Updater v. 1.23, along with HX Edit 3.11 for your HX Stomp and then you will need the Firmware 3.11.0 Flash Memory. Download all these items to your computer and note where they are. Then: Remove all Line 6 software from your computer and then restart your computer. Make sure to turn off the power to your HX Stomp. Unplug the USB cable from the computer and the Stomp. Power up the Stomp while holding down “PAGE >”. This puts the hardware into “Safe Boot” mode. (NOTE: This option is not documented in the regular Reset Options for the Stomp although I have read that others have had this keypress work for them. Should doing this give you a completely blank screen, you should be able to re-install the firmware again.) Leave the HX Stomp powered up. Now you can install the latest HX Edit v. 3.11 Reconnect the USB cable to the Stomp and your computer - Do not use a Hub. (Some USB ports on the front of a PC can act as a hub, so use one on the back). Ensure that HX Edit is closed and also shutdown any other background tasks, screen savers etc., also disconnect from any internet services. You don’t want anything to interfere with this installation routine. Now, find and launch the Line 6 Updater Utility and select "Offline Mode". Your HX Stomp and current firmware version should now show up in the window, click on the dark green coloured band and you should now have the option to select a local file - point it at the Flash Memory file you downloaded and let it get on with the update. When it completes you can launch the new HX Edit v.3.11 software and you should be good to go. No guarantee is given or implied - you do so at your own risk. If this fails, contact Line 6 Customer Support and raise a ticket. Hope this helps/makes sense.
    1 point
  10. Thanks. I had a feeling that was the situation but didn’t want to act before knowing for sure. I used to be the tech guy for our six sites (when I was teaching) and I’ve seen similar messages. Don’t like to be a nudge but does that mean I should run the “update”. Even though I’m already using the latest firmware? Looks like that’s what you’re saying. Factory reset might be in the future, too. Also curious about the overwrite procedure. Just can’t figure out why I’d have lost those presets after they’d been working fine. Part of me was thinking thet they were using data from the previous firmware and were now outdated.
    1 point
  11. Hi, What you have encountered is an over zealous “Gatekeeper” that is inbuilt to the Mac OS. Read this, which will save me having to type out the same old thing one more time. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT202491 Oh, yeah - when weird and unexplained stuff starts to happen, do a factory reset and/or re-flash the firmware. Also when stuff gets total screwy - use the Line 6 Updater, and ensure that nothing else is running that might interfere with the installation. Hope this helps/makes sense.
    1 point
  12. Thanks, NBell. First thing I did last night was check the firmware. 3.11 for the the Stomp and Editor. Both the Stomp and Editor came as 3.11. All good there. I ran the rebuild and still have the same problem. 28 of the factory presets for guitar (not counting the 4 cables) aren't producing any sound. Same with some bass and acoustic presets. What's odd about it is that these presets were running without a problem previous to when I checked them out last night. I've had the unit for about 2 weeks, now, and this was the first time I noticed anything amiss. I just now checked out a video about updating. I ended up downloading Line 6 Updater.pkg (thought I don't think I need it?), but my computer won't run it because it says "Apple can't check it for malicious software. This software needs to be updated. Contact the developer for more information". There was also a section of the Update video talking about running an overwrite in order to fully integrate the newer amps etc. Said it doesn't do it automatically, as that would erase all my tones, IRs, etc. Again: I already had these presets working before...so don't know that that's the issue. Wondering if I should do that or if I've mistakenly changed something in Global Settings (I'm just now getting the hang of not touching anything "nearby" while making changes).
    1 point
  13. Paid presets - in a word, yes. Some paid presets are using stock cabs, others will use the creators favourite Impulse Responses (IR's). The problem with paying for presets is that what you hear are with the creators specific guitar/pickups and recording gear. These will never sound exactly the same with your gear and will nearly always need some tweaking accordingly. Building on @grdGo33 response re IR, an IR is actually a little more than just the sound of an amp and a mic. An impulse response (or IR) is a sonic measurement of the sound of a speaker, room or microphone in relation to a sound source. In guitar terms, this is usually your amp. After your guitar itself and the dialled-in tone of your amp, there’s a lot more that can affect your sound. The speaker type, the space you’re in (ie natural room ambience), the build of the cabinet, the microphone you’re using, the microphone’s preamp or position both relative to the distance of the mic from the speaker and its distance from the centre of the speaker. With both single and multi-speaker cabs (eg 2x12, 4x12), some IR's are recorded with several mics at the same time. The combinations are literally infinite. The idea of an impulse response is to capture all of that information in one go, so you can instantly recall that setting. This means that you can retain your preferred tone, right down to the detail of your favourite mic placement and room sound. The problem is that when you buy IR packs or even use IR's that are available free, you could find that you have literally dozens and dozens of variations of the same speaker. Eg using mic type A/B/C individually or in combination at distance 1-12", offset from the speaker central axis by 1-12". So it's a real rabbit warren and trial & error to find the ones you like best. Now, even though in Pod Go there is only a distance of mic from the speaker option but no mic 'off axis' option in Pod Go, you still get a good choice of mic types and the ability to alter high & low frequencies and to add a natural room reflection, and a good choice of cabs and speaker options. This means that you already have the ability to vary the tone from the stock cab model considerably. When you hear an IR compared to the stock cab, your immediate thought might be that the IR is much fuller sounding & bigger eg with more bottom end or 'sparkle'. But one of the reason's is the dB setting of the IR is typically set higher than the stock cab '0dB' setting of the stock speaker, so it's sound is more prominent. But here's a key 'trick' - if you raise the stock cab dB to eg +6dB there's a huge change to how the stock cab sounds and very often you can get extremely close to a third party IR of the same cab. Some IR's are better than others but there are so many free IR's around, I'd strongly recommend you try these first before deciding to buy. Because we all hear & like different things, an IR that I might rave about you might hate. Similarly, buying patches - you might think these are great but I might hate them. Remember, there are a ton of patches available free on Line 6 Custom tone (I've contributed a few myself) so there's so much to try out before spending money. Buying an IR and/or patches is therefore a lottery. Why do folk buy? Well, some IR's can be particularly good and some patches might be well crafted. But most often it's because folk want a quick fix - instant tonal gratification without having to do the work themselves. But here's the thing, if all you do is buy stuff you're not really learning about Pod Go yourself and it's that journey of discovery that you'll be missing. And there are a ton of patch building vids on Youtube to help guide you and teach you. But it's still ultimately one persons ears versus another so even a top patch designer's patches, regardless of pedigree, skill in the studio etc, might not suit you. To make the point, have a listen to the Pod Go demo NAMM 2020 by Phil Hindmarsh, and then load down the exact same patches he was using from Line 6 Custom Tone - Paul is a fab player and in the vid, his tones sound spectacular. Now load those identical patches into your Pod Go - and I guarantee they won't sound like in the vid. https://line6.com/customtone/search/?submitted=1&family=pod_go&search_term=PH Phil's skill aside, remember that this is mixed & EQ'd at the board, and your guitar, amp, speakers and even guitar cables or wireless system will be different. And everything impacts on your tone even down to the type of pick you use! And if you are a gigging player, remember that patches which might sound great in your room at home through headphones or your own home amp might sound 'meh' or even bad live in a band mix or through your gigging amp at stage volume or even if (like me) you don't use an amp and put your MFX straight through the main board/PA. And vice-a-versa ie great gigging patches might sound bad at home. And all those fine nuances as between 1" or 3" off axis etc that you might discern at home through headphones - well, & trust me here as I'm a gigging player, they go straight out the window as you'll never ever hear such differences in a live band mix. And all the reverb, delay & distortion settings that sound great at home - chances are you'll need to take everything down as in a live band mix you need tones that cut through the mix and don't sound muddy or washed out. There's a thread on this board on IR's, including posts from me with links to free IR's - so do a search and check that out to get you started on IR's. Remember, learning about tone & what your gear is capable of is a journey, and that folk selling IR's and patches want to make money. I'm not saying don't buy stuff or that there isn't some good stuff out there - but there's a lot of free options to get you started and there's no substitute for learning at least the basics yourself.
    1 point
  14. I have seen it done with the HD500 I don't remember how (because I have no use for it), but it happened.
    1 point
  15. OK, wtfuzz dl'd, and it's doing exactly what it's supposed to do, sending USB 1/2 to the output assigned in Global Settings>Ins/Outs>USB 1/2 Destination. If you have it set to MULTI, it goes EVERYWHERE EXCEPT USB 1/2. However, it does not (and is not) go(ing) to the Inputs. That patch has Path 1 Out set to Send 1/2 and Path 2 Out set to USB 1/2. I have the 1/4" on my Helix connected to a tube amp return and L6 Link connected to my PC212+, which outputs (via XLR) to a mixer. XLRs on Helix are not connected. If I change the USB 1/2 Destination in Global Settings to XLR, I hear playback in headphones. If I change it to 1/4" it plays back through the amp, and Multi plays back everywhere (except USB 1/2). If I change Input Block source to NONE or any unused input, it has no effect on the signal. No effect added to either path affects the signal. That means that the signal is going to the outputs directly, not through the signal path! Conclusion: The patch works as expected. Review the above and, hate to say it but, RTM. When I first got my Helix, the manual was very confusing, and I had to read it multiple times and try all sorts of experiments before I figured it out. It's a lot like plumbing, which I suck at. FWIW - Multi Band 4 twd.hlx failed the same way that the first DL of wtfuzz did, with a message that the link was trying to DL multiple files. The second attempt at wtfuzz worked, but didn't DL the patch name. IDK what's up, but you might want to run a malware check. Just sayin'.....
    1 point
  16. I saw your post while trying to fix a similar problem. This worked for me: After I installed all the latest upgrades to the drivers and the editor, I restarted the system then followed these steps. 1. Open System Preferences in OS X Catalina 2. Select "Security and Privacy" 3. Select the "General" tab 4. Look at the bottom for an alert about system software prevented from loading 5. Select to allow software from Line 6 6. Open POD HD500 Editor 7. Connect the POD to the USB Done! I hope this helps!
    1 point
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