Leaderboard

If for no other reason, do it for the planet.

As Mr. Dragon said in his post, the issue i discovered was the failed solder points. As i opened the Helix i found that one or two cables has come loose quite a time ago making the twist for scrolling function not working for months. (Aaaand i discovered that my Helix was in a serious need of an internal clean up) The third cable came loose and the whole joystick died. I had to solder these back in place and strenghtened the solderpoints/small cables by adding some supporting silicone glue. In this way the solder points will not be moved as the joystick is used. this is definitively a weak point on the Helix, wich could be avoided if theese solderpoints/ cables has ben better supported with silicone or hot glue in the first place.

After returning to 3.11 and following ALL of the instructions, if you still have the problem, attach your actual presets (not recordings) after switching from IRs (if thats what you're using) to stock cabs. Also, what's your playback system, and which Helix model are you using?

Helix FX refers to the Helix FX in your preset. And where does the signal go AFTER it returns to Helix from the attenuator? Also, Attach a copy of your preset (not a screenshot) so I can see what's happening.

Hi, I’m not in a position to check out your example presets right now, as the studio is locked until tomorrow, but I’m intrigued by this statement: - “I opted to try to restore some old Factory Presets by loading old Firmware into the Helix.” I cannot comprehend as to why you would need revert the firmware to restore old presets? Simply load them in to your hardware and let it rebuild the presets to bring them into line with the current firmware. Also bear in mind, any presets that you have created and updated to v3.11 will not work in earlier versions. Hope this helps/makes sense.

The one thing you might want to consider is that the "latest and greatest Variax technology" is now 11 years old. Technologically speaking, that's ancient... and updates ceased years ago at this point. It's a good bet that the next generation, whatever it is/will be, probably isn't too far off... exactly when is anybody's guess, of course. Just food for thought...

I find the best thing to do is make your adjustments with headphones get them as close as you can, then switch over to the amp and EQ from there. It really depends on what you are doing. I like to use mine predominantly as effects, so I am more interested in setting delay times and such. Other guys I guess are more interested in tonal aspects of different amps etc and that is a different kettle of fish requiring flat response monitors / headphones. Like the other guys have said, play around with it. I got some great lead tones using amp cabs and I am just plugging into the front of an old school valve amp. Even cabs can sound good. Try them is the best way, you will soon find what you want. I have my Pod Go for sale now. It's a nice enough unit and has all the bells and whistles etc but its too much for me. I find the Comp / EQ's don't really work for me. Distortions and OD's not keen. I also found every different effect I added some tonal color that I didn't want. If I select a delay I want it to make my natural amp sound delayed, not make it brighter, or duller etc. I gone back to my little Nux MG-300. Good basic effects that work how I want them to and very easy to use. Dialed in everything I wanted in under an hour. I sat on the pod for days. I notice there are an awful lot of these used units for sale and the price is coming down fast. My feeling is the PodGo and similar is more suited to a person who doesn't have or doesn't want a heavy guitar amp, that can simply plug into FOH and get a simulated sound of a particular amp or wants to go DI into their DAW or recorder without mics. I already have a nice amp and want to retain its character. I personally don't think a Amp / Cab sim unit into a PA or anything else will be the same as a proper amp. It may sound similar but its never gonna feel the same. Just my thoughts of course, to each his own and whatever works best for you

It always is. I could kind of see them releasing a 64-bit version of Monkey in some ways, as there are products people can still buy new that use Monkey, however, from what I've heard for Line 6 folks, it would be a pretty monumental task just because of the way Monkey is written and all the legacy connections. The thing is that Macs are still represent a minority of the computers out there, and even for a music-oriented company like Line 6, a minority of their users are on Macs. So you have a small sliver of their overall user base who are affected by the lack of 64-bit support for these applications, and it's not like adding it opens up additional revenue streams for them. It would be a nice thing to do, for sure, but unfortunately, I don't think that's enough justification for them.

There is grounding among the various units, regardless of whether they connect to a power line ground or not. Here's an article you might find helpful. FWIW I once had a problem where audio devices hooked up to my computer's USB had noise. Apparently the motherboard's USB port was "dirty" - for example, USB hard drives connected to the computer caused clicking and other noises. The solution was getting a USB card, which I dedicated solely to audio devices.

Leave it all on, kilowatts be damned!!! I also like to have the heat and A/C duke it out in the summer, just for sh*ts 'n' giggles...and I'm considering hiring someone to stand in the bathroom to constantly flush the toilet. ;)