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Aside from the suggested USB cables testing/swapping and using your primary USB port (closest to the main power connector of your PC), backup any of your custom presets and Global settings. Then, completely uninstall all of the Line 6 software from your system! Doing so should also remove any vestiges of Line 6's drivers. If necessary, use Control Panel or Microsoft's higher tier software removal tools. Next, with a known clean system (i.e free of any Line 6 software), go to Line 6's site and download HX Edit. Install HX Edit. It should install a clean set of drivers and software. If following such installation, the problem persists, at least, you can advise Line 6 of the steps you took, as they further assist you through your Support Ticket. Hope matters get resolved soon.

Sounds like you have done some shuffling around with drivers and whatnot as you attempted to troubleshoot this. I would download and reinstall the version of HX Edit that matches your firmware just to make sure things are back in synch. If you have not already, I would also try swapping in other USB cables and try connecting on all of my USB ports (front and back if you are on a desktop PC). If you are on a laptop, same advice and obvious though it may seem, make sure it is plugged in and charging, not running on battery. Good luck with this.

"Preset Levelling" is one of the most common question raised with modelers, and one of the most difficult to accomplish. My suggestion, based on the specifics of your question, is to assign the LEVEL in the Output Block to Snapshots.

If it's during power on or power off, then it would be a filter cap discharge cycle, also known as the RC time constant. Might not be as well matched to the transformer as it could be. How long since the tubes were swapped out last? Are they the specified tubes and bias? Tubes choices to use for the DT Series,... DT-50 Series: 12AX7EH Electro-Harmonix approved for the DT50 pre-amps. EL34EH Electro-Harmonix (matched pairs) for the power amps. DT-25 Series: 12AX7B China for pre-amps. EL84EH Electro-Harmonix (matched pairs) for the power amps. Power amp tube choices are crucial, and must be properly biased by a tech or Line 6 authorized service center who knows the product. Don't do this yourself, the shock hazard is too great,... and it hurts when you get electric shock. Leave it to a tech trained who is for this. These valve amps are particular about tubes and tube brands. Do Not use substitutes, No Mesa, Groove Tube, Tung-Sol or JJ or (etc) substitutes. No hot rodding of an already Bogner hot rod. How often do you play it? Gigging musician (once every 12-18 months), weekend warrior (once every 20-22 months), bedroom/closet studio rocker every couple weeks (once every 24 months)?

I know it's been discussed to death many times over but I've tried FRFR many times/systems and it just doesn't sit with me. Maybe at home it's ok but at practice/live you can't beat your own cabinet. It's a totally different playing experience interacting with a real cabinet. Anyway - the helix amps/preamps sound great through the Terror Stamp.

When an effect is far too sensitive I will place a simple GAIN block before it and turn it down several DB until the effect responds the way I want it to, then make up the gain loss with the output level of the effect. I tie both blocks to the same "stomp switch" so they toggle on/off at the same time. I don't know if that will work for you or not, it's just something I discovered when trying to get some effects to respond like the original versions I have owned.

In case anyone thinks that this " Power surge on USB port" error is something new - here's a video from Feb 2019. Hope this helps/makes sense.

That's true unless you want to connect your Helix to a computer. If so you need the Line 6 drivers. And HX Edit is also additional software if you want to use it - it's not necessary. As for your current driver issue, there are 2 Line 6 drivers involved. One is for DAW support (that's the one you mention). The other is for general usb audio support. Find it and download/install it. if you are still experiencing issues open a support ticket. btw... installing HX Edit first, per the installation procedures, installs both drivers.

Huh? Guess you must have missed this:- Obviously HX Edit 3.11 is the current version, but this routine (using the latest version) still remains the way to do it. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Oversampling can be heard. It's not necessarily "better", but there is a sonic difference. Sort-of like it's more "crisp". You can also only really hear it in isolation. In the mix it makes almost no difference. Like if you export your track as a wav file or a high-quality mp3 -- sounds almost the same.

Only way you could do that would be to hook up a wrong impedance load, right? Like hooking up a ~2 ohm load (instead of 4 ohms), like putting 2 4-ohm speakers in parallel (stupid way to increase volume!)

Hey, I love that a Line 6 expert answers questions here, but your example of 'cranking up the amp'?? That makes no sense. The 75 has a maximum volume attainable, and it should not make a difference if you have channel volume and master volume on 10 or not as to what the amp can attain for volume - whether you are in a garage or an arena. Of course throwing a big boost on the input to get more volume can present issues - but typically this would fry the input circuit, right?

Solid state amps don't "overheat" - like a tube amp that gets hot from the tubes themselves. There are components that can go bad and overheat, as can happen in any electronic device.

Well... considering I don't plug my Helix into an Amp I honestly don't know if the Helix does this or not. The one thing I can say is I don't get caught up on the little things.... for me it's about end tone. If I get a great tone out of something I wouldn't care if a slight amount of highs are sucked out.... but I would care about a slight amount of highs being sucked out if the resulting tone was not good :) Obviously, the POD Go requires one more cable to reach the amp... have you actually checked to make sure it isn't the extra cable that causing this slight loss of high end? Cables are notorious for sucking high end, often in unpredictable manners.

I moved from Pod GO to HX stomp XL. I don't need a full helix or lt...a bit too big for my needs. I did a lot songwriting demos with the GO and it works wonderfully. The only annoyance for me was having to spin up patches in native. My main reason for moving was I needed midi to integrate some other bits....stomp xl layout is basically a GO without an expression pedal and I do think it sounds better overall than the GO...maybe it's converters, maybe it's a placebo.

Hey Leonardo, no need to post the same thing in multiple old threads - start a new one, if you need to. After 'cooling off' does the amp work again? If so, then it may be a bad solder joint on the circuit board (no way for you to find it, though). If not, then it could be an internal fuse.