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I got all excited by this, ok, finally, a way to make it work! BUT, alas, it did not make any difference in my case, the same message about failing to connect to the DSP. BUT #2 I dug a little deeper this time and went the route of deleting all traces of Helix Native (https://uk.line6.com/data/6/0a020a410ad46078912adaa0e/application/pdf/Helix Native Pilot's Guide - English .pdf - search for remove) and then reinstalled and voila, Logic 10.7.2 and Helix Native are now nicely playing together on a 16" Macbook Pro M1 Max. Hoorah! That made my Sunday. Thanks to all who have weighed in over the months.

Thanks Silverhead And Voxman55, you guys are awesome, you were both right, I hit the DSP wall, I looked into the DSP limits when I made the choice to buy the pod go instead of the helix, or the helix hx, and I recall it saying something to the effect that the DSP chip was 85% in the pod go as compared to the helix (100%) I forgot about that aspect of the pod go , I didn’t think it would be a big deal, and to be honest -it’s not, I play out about once a month and the pod go will fit all my needs for bar room gigging. Voxman55 thanks for the link, and I will definitely watch some more videos, I’m just more of a hands-on guy, and it is easier for me to ask a question on the forum when I run into a problem, I feel like I have a good handle on the pod go at this point, but knowledge definitely is power, as it turns out, my ( beach balls) were too big, lol

I appreciated the suggestions and help. Unfortunately I could never get it work properly. I decided to sell my Ernie ball and get a Dunlop mini volume pedal. It’s great because it’s half the size and is designed to operate both volume pedal and an expression pedal.

Put the looper at the end of the signal chain. You record with the sounds active that you want in the loop. If you change sounds while playing over the loop they won't change the sounds you already recorded. If you want to add an effect to the total sound (like reverb to simulate a room sound or something) you would put that at after the looper so that effect applies to everything, regardless of if it was on or not when the loop was recorded.

SOLVED... & it was so easy.. ONLY ONE STEP (OK, two.. no uninstalling or reinstalling or re-downloading needed) Thanks to you all, so I had to post it here: System: Macbook Pro w/M1 Pro + Monterey. Problem was: New computer came with Monterey, migrated everything from old Macbook w/M1 + Big Sur, all but Native worked. Solution: 1. (Not sure if this step is necessary but probably it helped) Run Logic, go to Plugin Manager and if Helix Native isn't validated, quit, run again in Rosetta, go to Plugin Manager, select Native and "rescan selection" and see it get enabled.. then quit Logic. 2. In Finder top menu bar, click Go, press the Option/Alt Key to reveal "Library". Under Library > Application Support > Line 6 find "Helix Native" folder and rename or delete it (rename is better just in case) That's it. NOTE THAT YOU'LL LOSE ALL PRESETS AND IR'S AND SETTINGS.. I had them on my Helix Floor.. Now run Logic WITHOUT Rosetta, check if Native's still "enabled".. and then in a new track, insert Native and VOILA! Just like I guessed, an existing setting or preset must have caused the problem and it was located in that folder that I renamed. Once it was renamed or deleted, Native recreates that folder this time without the problem. I didn't have to delete Native at all, I just luckily found where the problem was and it's gone.. Finally I can use Native after 2 months.. All the posts here helped, so thank you, hope this works for others :)

Hi JuRo1971, I put the SY-200 in one of the effect loops (send 1 / return 1) in mono. Mine sounds great. The issue that I was talking about here, regarding MIDI, was about program changes, which I did figure out. I was using a MIDI (DIN plug) to 3.5mm TRS MIDI - but mine was a type "B" - to transmit MIDI program changes into the Boss SY-200, you need to make sure your 3/5mm MIDI cord is type "A."

The factory reset feature using the onboard controls was removed when Variax HD was released. The online manuals were updated in 2019 to reflect this. The paper manuals still have the old procedure. The only way to perform a full factory reset is with Line 6 Monkey or to reload the factory presets manually.

So usually a Fender combo amp has this little piece of 1/4 inch cable that is coming from the speaker itself. This little cable is plugged into the “speaker” jack in the back of the amp. Simply unplug that little speaker cable and plug it into the Baby Bomb’s out jack. All combo amps have an ability to use an external speaker cabinet if you want…so you can plug an external amp into it. Just obviously do not turn on the amp, and unplug any pedal switches from the amp prior. And so you’ll have a simple speaker cabinet with a short cable coming out the back of it that you can power with a micro amp…

Do yourself a favor, subscribe on this site and download this: https://www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=24065.0

I had a similar experience with an Amplifi 150, just sound out of the tweeters no woofer. Here was my diagnosis path, big thanks to @rdownings for a good starting point. So I unscrewed the rear panel, inspected power pcb and woofer amp pcb couldn’t see failed components, so removed the power supply board at the bottom, put the connectors back on and ran it outside the case and checked and had all the voltage rails , +-45v +-19 and +8v, same issue. Was going to swap out the woofer amp board as I have 2 150’s but decided to check all the audio signal cables and connectors and it started working, so might have been un seated connector or could still be dry joint while knows, but it’s working. But yeah think checking voltages off power pcb before removing it is the fastest thing, then audio connectors , and then amp module. I got lucky !

I would try a couple of things before replacing it. 1) Rotate the knob back and forth quickly, through its full range of motion, many times. This could dislodge some dust and dirt that may have built up in the shaft. 2) Use a cleaning fluid. Search for ‘cleaning a potentiometer’ for materials and method. DON’T use a common household lubricating fluid such as WD-40.

Hi, You might want to check this thread and follow the links - save me from typing it all out again. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Did you ever fix this problem? I just go a HX stomp XL and am having the same problem with the 250k Ernie ball.

This. Please keep bluetooth, ipads, iphones, iclouds, and all other obsolete-next-year toys far away from professional guitar gear.

I have a 6180. When I am at full toe down, the volume goes back to 0. I inverted the polarity so the 100 is no longer in the middle but I still can figure out how to fix the full toe down problem. Slightly before full toe down I am at 100. Do you have the same issue ?

Ok, the saga continues. So I got the M Audio, and it works great. However, it has the cable attached. So I can't figure out how I can also get another input so that I can use my footswitch for tap/tuner. The M Audio has a cable integrated into it's design, so I can't do the normal Y cable method. Any ideas? Sidenote: over and over I see that the Line 6 wants to see TS instead of TRS cable for expression and such... but the M Audio, the first that I've found that works correctly with this unit, is using a TRS cable. What's up with that? Sidenote # 2: My trusty VP Jr works just perfectly with the HX effects. Why wouldn't this be universal across the line?