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SRV is laughing from the sky now. :) (just joking eh)

According to the link below the Helix's headphone output is 12 Ohms. 4 Best Headphones for Helix – Music Gear Zone If that rating of 12 Ohms is accurate for the Helix's headphone output that means, using the 8:1 rule's recommended ratio, a headphone with an impedance of around 96 ohms should be well matched to the Helix. You can of course go higher(or lower) but the more the headphone's impedance exceeds that 96 Ohm mark, the more you may have to turn up the headphone volume. As you up the impedance rating of the headphones there can be a point of diminishing returns, where you feel as if you are not able to get adequate headphone volume anymore. This will depend to some extent on the construction and sensitivity/efficiency of the headphones. Headphones Ohms Ratings Explained - zZounds Music Blog Update: I always try to use the equipment I will be using on stage to design presets intended for stage. I use an FRFR primarily as a monitor as it is most similar to a PA speaker. Stands to reason the results are just more predictable. If you do use headphones though, it occurs to me that in addition to the quality and inherent frequency response characteristics of a given headphone, that impedance mismatches may contribute to why some users get worse results than others when taking those presets, designed with headphones, directly to stage(usually a bad idea anyway IMHO). The Fletcher Munson Curve, as usual, is probably a big factor in this as well. See the quote below from the second link provided. "Why does the 8:1 rule matter? If the source output impedance is more than 1/8 of the headphone impedance, you’ll get distortion in the form of audible variation in the frequency response. Highs, lows, or mids may get extra emphasis. These variations in frequency response can range from subtle to easily audible, and often unpredictable."

This might help: External amp switching issue after updating to 3.11 - Helix - Line 6 Community

Snapshot copy only works within a given preset. Not between presets. And yes, the only way to ‘delete’ a preset is to copy another preset over it.

ADDITION: OK, so I posted my last post in the other thread about this issue and someone commented that it didn't work for him. He says, however, that he additionally deleted all traces of Native as told in the Native Manual and that did the trick. That makes me think that having previously taken the same steps as he did, probably paved my path and that my "simple solution" in the above post wouldn't have worked without those steps. So I had to add this info here.. Clean Native first and then follow my post right above..

Oh, so my method didn't work.. well I actually didn't mention my previous attempts in my last post as I had no success with them, but now I think maybe they paved the path.. What I did previously: 1. Delete all traces of Native like you did, as told in the Manual (which didn't include my last step) 2. Re-download and reinstall Native So now I think these two steps, combined with the last (deleting/renaming the Library > Application Support > Line 6>Helix Native folder) do the trick. BTW, I'm sure a clean install on a new computer would work OK. We had problems because we were migrating from older systems. Thanks for the feedback.

I've experienced all sorts of popping noises when certain blocks are enabled/disabled when switching snapshots. First of all, ensure it's in fact the amp block, not something else. For example, I had issues where acoustic sim would pop really loudly. If you checked and the issue is actually the amp blocks, and if you must use 2 different amps, use the A/B switching. Place one amp on path "a", the other on path "b" and switch between them (they'll be on all the time, non bypassed).

Was messing around with the Helix yesterday and came up with this, if anybody is interested in getting the signature delay sound...

I got all excited by this, ok, finally, a way to make it work! BUT, alas, it did not make any difference in my case, the same message about failing to connect to the DSP. BUT #2 I dug a little deeper this time and went the route of deleting all traces of Helix Native (https://uk.line6.com/data/6/0a020a410ad46078912adaa0e/application/pdf/Helix Native Pilot's Guide - English .pdf - search for remove) and then reinstalled and voila, Logic 10.7.2 and Helix Native are now nicely playing together on a 16" Macbook Pro M1 Max. Hoorah! That made my Sunday. Thanks to all who have weighed in over the months.

Sounds like you've sorted this out. As a long time variax and Helix user I will confirm you can do almost anything you could think of using patches and snapshots. Rather than saving tunings in the Variax save them in the Helix and let the Variax just manage the bassline sounds - it helps your workflows be easier. I have patches that swap between accoustic, and 3 different electrics and tunings for each to do rythym, lead, slide parts. As you've found, making sure there's not mag 'leakage' unless you want it. The other tip is make evey patch force tuning. Although the release notes etc say otherwise the Helix/Variax combo does not return to the previous tuning when you change patches - you must force or you retain the previous tuning. Make a Template with the globals and basic setting you want - it will make a huge difference (eg each string's tuning managed by snaps in a template will save you six right clicks when you want to enable it - not much but a bit meh). Without knowing your OS I will say I have found Edit and Workbench very stable, but they have been unstable with some USB ports and some cables. I have one brand new cable that refused to connect. I use win 10.

You need to explain your question more clearly. I see you are a new user here. We aren’t mind readers, and we sometimes poke some good-natured fun at unclear questions. Don’t get turned off by it. Just provide more detailed information about what you’re asking.

Below the bell-shaped capital with volutes, two rows of acanthus leaves and elaborate cornice. But only if corinthian. I knew my art history study would be useful one day.

Success! I'm happy to report that my Line 6 'Won't Go' is now a Pod Go again!!! :) Support suggested I load the firmware offline from a Flash file that is available from the same location as all the other stuff; firmware, updater, edit etc. So I downloaded the flash file and tried loading it using updater and in update mode (power on whilst holding down page> (right) on the Pod Go) At first the same thing happened - it started to load but then crashed. I changed to a different PC (which didn't work yesterday whilst online) and it worked straight away in offline mode! Happy days. NOTE: If you are logged in to your account, updater doesn't mention 'offline mode' but you need to choose the 'local file' option at the start/top of the list - you then locate the downloaded flash file on your computer - it's a .hxf file - in my case it was in my downloads folder. If you are not logged in to your account, updater gives you the option to work offline. Since then, I have done a factory restore (hold down C & D buttons and turn on) which means I can see all the new stuff in v1.3, and I have loaded my backup with my user patches in tact, plus some IR's that I purchased awhile ago. Everything working and sounding great. Faith restored Thanks for all your help with this - it wasn't much fun, but I got there in the end!!

- Quit HX Edit! Don't start it again until you're finished with everything following. - Go here and download the Line 6 Updater (in case it's not installed on your machine already): https://line6.com/software/ - Also download the "Flash Memory" from there (it's the actual update). - Install the updater. - Reboot the Helix while holding down switches 6 and 12 (this will take you to safe boot mode). - Start the Line 6 Updater, select "Offline Mode" and see whether it finds your Helix. - If yes, select it and choose "local file". Point it to the Flash Memory file you've downloaded.

Hmmmm... same request, two usernames? I'm getting confused :) IMO... that's a beautiful tone. This is what I would do.... Strat Bridge Pickup (w/fresh strings.... you can hear that clearly at the end of the clip) Fender Twin Model (double normal) Bring the drive back to about 3 Highs around 3 Lows around 5 or 6 set the mids around 6 or 7 Insert the TILT EQ and set the TILT to DARK 60 (this simulates moving the mic closer to the edge of the speaker) (Optional)... Simple delay with a 400ms delay time, 2-3 repeats, keep the mix low, around 15%. For Reverb, just insert the '63 Spring and leave it as is. LA Studio Comp at the end of the chain... just inserting it will bring out the desired flavor, but I would also roll the gain back to about 5. The majority of the tone is how he picks, and his subtle use of the tremolo bar on the guitar! He's a master! Attached is a quick preset based on the settings I mention above. Keep in mind this was made in Native, with MY STRAT which is a '62 re-issue. You may have to adjust for your gear a little! EDIT TO ADD: Although I used a Fender Twin model for the amp, I am pretty sure Hank plays VOX amps... I'm just more comfortable dialing in the Fenders. Hank Marvin.hlx

Unfortunately, you cannot use model packs with the iLok version. If you purchase the PC version you will be able to use the model packs though.