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Hello everyone, I just released an update to Helix Help, https://helixhelp.com, to match the 3.15 release. This includes all of the new models, release notes, and other information. Along with this release many of the models have been updated with better descriptions and some bugs have been squashed. I am currently working on some clean up/including some additional information. I hope you all enjoy firmware 3.15! It's a doozy! Jason

Well, I guess after 7 years it was finally my turn to have a problem upgrading...sigh... No big deal. The system just got hung up installing the firmware. When it became obvious it wasn't really going anywhere, I just killed the HX Edit program from the task manager, started HX Edit 3.15 again and went through the update of the firmware again and it all worked perfectly. Who knows what caused it, but it's nice to know the update process is robust enough that it doesn't get thrown into a tizzy if the update procedure gets interrupted. Nice solid piece of software.

The "tone stack" on the Ventoux amp is really something, a distinct departure from traditional amps. Props to Line 6 for innovative thinking, and not doing just another model of an existing amp. I'd love to see more of this "re-imagining" in future updates. Sure, the classic amps were great...but maybe Ventoux is the start of the next generation of classic amps that are possible only through modeling. Impressive as "word-I-can't-use-in-a-public-forum" :)

Are you navigating to your backup files via the 'Restore From Backup' command under the 'File' entry in the HX Edit menu? If it is not working, assuming the backup file is not totally corrupt, you can try the 'Extract Files From Backup' command on your backup and at least rescue and restore the presets you most want to retain. Btw, your backup files should have a suffix of ".hxb". Also, are you getting any kind of error message when you try to restore the backup?

shoot. I missed that line. Thanks man! will do

This solved every issue i had, thank you very much!

Just wanted to note there is a 3.15 update to Native available now for download as well. The gift that keeps on giving, more innovation and yet another awesome update. Thanks Eric, Ben, and everyone else at Line6!

For the bass, there's this Variax Bass Quick Guide.pdf There is a chart like the one at the beginning of this post that I can't find on the internet. I'm pretty sure I have it but it's not with me. If I do find it, I will post it later.

Hi, You can get it to play once only without overdub being engaged, simply ensure that the LED ring on the foot switch is NOT flashing. Hitting the “PLAY” switch immediately stops recording, and starts playback of whatever you have in memory. The play “ONCE” button is intended to be used in a similar fashion to a “fade out” effect on other brands of loopers. Ideally you would ensure that the Looper is not record enabled (no flashing LED), then if you have your timing right, kick in the play “ONCE” switch as your recoded loop is running and it will play through to the end of your loop and then stop. Another option would be to record a very small audio sample into the looper and then use the play “ONCE” feature to play back “one shot” snippets every time the button is pushed. You didn’t mention MIDI CC in your original post. I generally use one of my several dedicated external loopers for the more serious stuff. I haven’t messed with the on board looper’s MIDI implementation while using an external sequencer, but the full list of MIDI CC# and values are listed on page 73 of the Owner’s Manual. https://line6.com/data/6/0a020a3f041b611d61cac763b/application/pdf/Helix 3.0 Owner's Manual - Rev F - English .pdf Hope this helps/makes sense.

It does thanks, I was hoping that I could get the loop to play once only without overdub being engaged. I'm trying to sync the looper to a sequencer by using CC commands.

What silverhead said, head knows his stuff. Check the model gallery in the owners manual. Stevic had some patches where certain strings were attenuated or muted altogether. If that is not the case,... alcohol on a cotton swab, drip it onto the piezo/saddle, then blow out with canned air. Repeat as needed. It clears out any dust debris and such. The saddle acts as the chassis ground for the piezo, keep it clean prevents intermittent connections. If it's still a problem, it should be serviced by a Line 6 authorized service center.

(quote from another thread, but bumping this one instead) That's pretty sad... Just sounds like excuses, it's very easy to say that people didn't demand this feature because it didn't get enough votes... But how many PGO users are on ideascales, and how many know about this feature, or that they can vote for it on ideascale?! Just to know about any of this, you have to visit this support forums or 'the gear page' forum's pod go thread or whatnot, learn of existence of the feature by reading a bunch of posts, and then you have to REGISTER to ideascale, wait for approval, then go to the bother of finding the exact place to vote. No wonder there's few votes, takes a bunch of very unlikely events to occur to make it possible to vote. If Line6 was really interested in knowing if Pod Go users are interested, there could have been a simple poll somewhere; which features would you like most; a, b, c or d. Or, would you like to have this? Yes/no. Then people would vote, and you'd get an idea of what people want. But this voting "if we get enough votes" thing is designed for user requests to be ignored. Anyway, maybe it's not as bad as I assume. Maybe ideascale works better than I'd wager. But I've never bothered to check it out in the past. Like most people, the bystander effect is real; why do I need to vote, I'm just 1 person, doesn't really matter, others will do it. And yeah, certainly Line6 is aware of all of that. I guess the idealists views ideascale as a good faith effort, and the realists view it for what it is. (The previous L6 answers confirm this, see my 1st comment in this thread) And yeah, to answer to the original quoted comment. It's a very silly answer. Minorities always complain. There will ALWAYS be people complaining. And it's not like you couldn't run out of DSP previously... Anyway, it just sounds to me like another excuse not to do it.

I've got 2 laptops, both are the same brand but different models one is working with hx edit just fine, the other was ok until it just have stopped opening the HX Edit app and since then no progress... ....ok. I've read this, and it was my sollution: I found the answer on reddit. There's an SD card in my card reader. When I eject the card, HX Edit runs. When I insert the SD card again, HX Edit does not run. .....maybe someone like me will need this info. ..thank You and all the best

Nope, it's not new, and it's only confusing because whenever a post gets made about it, people who don't quite get it muddy the waters by talking in philosophical circles instead of taking 10 quiet minutes to understand how it works. For posterity, here is what's going on, again, from top to bottom. If you have questions after this, please read it again. First, let's talk about real-world analog pedals and amps: (1) First, we need to understand that input impedance (represented by Z) is a property of a circuit. Everything you plug your guitar cable into has a certain input impedance. Every pedal you've ever used has a certain input impedance. (2) Some pedals like fuzzes have LOW input impedances (e.g. 10 000 Ohms aka 10 kOhm). Some other pedals have HIGH input impedances (e.g., 1 000 000 Ohms aka 1 MOhm) (3) The input impedance of whatever your guitar is directly plugged into affects the sound of your guitar's pickups. This is because your pickups become part of the circuit, and the input impedance interacts with your guitar pickups to create what is essentially an analog low-pass filter. (4) If your guitar is connected to something with very HIGH input impedance, it will have no noticeable filtering, and will sound bright with all of the treble frequencies passing through. If you connect your guitar to something with LOW input impedance, the combined circuit acts as a low-pass filter, which attenuates treble frequencies. The lower the input impedance, the more the treble gets attenuated. (5) Ok, given #4, why would we ever want a low input impedance for something you plug your guitar into? Well, many old-school effects like fuzzes don't sound or feel 'right' without their low input impedance chopping the treble frequencies out of the input signal. Low input impedance is generally an undesirable thing for a guitar input, but at the same time it's essential to making some pedals/amps sound the way we expect them to in the real-world. (6) The interaction of guitar pickups + input impedance applies to the first thing your guitar is directly plugged into. If you have a pedal with 1MOhm input impedance first in your chain, and then a low-impedance fuzz after that, the fuzz won't sound right because your guitar is 'seeing' the 1MOhm impedance, not the lower impedance of the fuzz. Likewise, if you have a buffered pedal first in the chain, this will also behave as if your guitar is plugged into a high input impedance. (7) If you have a true-bypass pedal, and it's in the bypass state, then the input impedance of the NEXT pedal in the chain is what your guitar 'sees.' This is because a true bypass is basically like adding some extra length to your guitar cord and connecting it directly to the next pedal. Ok, now let's talk about how the Helix models input impedance: (A) The Helix/LT/Stomp have a variable input impedance circuit on the guitar input. This means there is an analog circuit on the input which can be switched through many different values of input impedance. It can go from 1 MOhm all the way down to 10 kOhm. This isn't a digitally-modeled effect -- it is an actual analog circuit that loads the pickups. (B) If your guitar is plugged DIRECTLY into Helix's guitar input, then your pickups are loaded by this analog input impedance circuit. If you have things in between your guitar and Helix, then those things determine the input impedance seen by your guitar as described earlier. (C) Every model within Helix (amps, pedals, etc.) has an input impedance value internally coded into it. No, you can't look at the value anywhere, but just understand that a 70s Chorus pedal has a 22 kOhm input impedance, and a Scream 808 has a 230 kOhm input impedance, and so on. These internally-stored values are based on the input impedances of the real-life pedals. (D) The internally-coded input impedance of the first block in your signal path sets the Helix's input impedance value by default. In other words, if the first pedal in your signal path is a 70s Chorus, the adjustable input impedance circuit will be set to 22 kOhm. This input impedance still applies whether that effect is bypassed or not. This behavior is realistic for pedals that aren't true-bypass, but is unrealistic for pedals that ARE true-bypass. Like it or not, that's how it currently works. (E) You can override the auto-adjusted input impedance by choosing a fixed value for it in the input block of your signal path. The parameter to adjust this is named "Guitar In-Z." The default value is AUTO which behaves as I described above. You can manually set it to any value you want, and that will be the new input impedance of the guitar input circuit no matter what is in your patch, and no matter their bypass states. (F) The outcome of the default Auto behavior is that if you have a pedal with low input impedance (e.g. Industrial Fuzz) first in your chain, and you bypass it, then whatever is next in the chain will sound darker, because it's behaving as if it, too, has a low input impedance. If the next thing in your chain was an amp, it'd sound like the amp's instrument input circuit had a 10 kOhm input impedance, which no amp will likely have in real life. Again, this behavior is how real-life pedals without true-bypass behave. This behavior is not how real-life pedals with true-bypass behave. (G) Line 6 chose to do it this way, and some people disagree with that. If they'd chosen to set the Auto-Z based on the first non-bypassed pedal in the chain, some people would be happier and some would probably not like it that way, either. If this really matters to you and is causing problems, you can either (1) manually set the Guitar In-Z to a fixed value; or (2) link the Guitar In-Z value to snapshots, and then manually set the value you want for each snapshot along with the bypass states of your pedals; or (3) link the Guitar In-Z to be controlled directly by a footswitch rather than snapshots, and then assign that same footswitch to toggle the bypass state of your first pedal. If you have plenty of DSP to spare, you can also split your patch into multiple inputs with different values and mute/unmute them, but that's a pretty brute-force approach IMO.

Thank god I came across this post. I had the same problem and this got me going again. Thank you for the info my friend!