Leaderboard

I don't have my Helix with me at this time... so I'm just going on the images you posted. So what you are saying is the TOE SWITCH is not available as a controller. This has to be an oversight at Line 6... it's just another switch and should be assignable like any other switch on the Helix. I'd recommend that you open a support ticket with Line 6 and ask them if there is a reason why the TOE SWITCH isn't an option as a controller. You may get a direct response as to why it isn't. "Ideascale" is usually the best place for feature requests but something like this would get buried pretty fast. I see it more as an "oversight"... unless they had a good reason not to include it. FWIW... I've considered using the toe switch to control values at times. Ultimately I never did, but I certainly assumed it would have been an option, just like any other switch on the Helix is.

RE: Send > USB...would be nice to have consistency...USB is an IO no different to a 1/4" I would have thought Thanks DC

FWIW... with my LT, I use a 2nd EXP pedal, which is auto assigned to EXP 2 at all times. That leaves my TOE SWITCH open to do whatever I want with it. I actually use it to TOGGLE my VOLUME & WAH blocks ON/OFF. Both are controlled by EXP 1, but only one is on at any given time. The TOE switch can control the ON/OFF state of anything, I honestly did not realize it wasn't allowed to control "values" like every other switch on the Helix does. MAYBE... just maybe... this is because it's default "controller setting" is to change EXP1 to EXP2.... I digress, OP should ask Line 6 why it isn't an option, I might even do that myself :)

You should follow the advice given by “codamedia”, in the post above. Contact Customer Support and/or post the suggestion of adding the extra toe switch functionality on IdeaScale. Hmm… well the Helix doesn’t have the ability to break out to a USB channel in mid path, even with a FX Loop block, but it would be possible to move everything that is currently after the suggested break point down onto Paths 2A and 2B. That way you could lose path 1B and then change the output at the end of Path 1A from Multi to whichever USB channels you want to send to your Live computer. Then you would need to change the input of Path 2 to receive the USB output channels from your Live computer, through the other effects on 2A and also to the looper on 2B, finally out through Multi, XLR or 1/4” sockets. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Cheers Yeah snapshots is blessing/curse deal. Im using it with the hold function from command centre and the quick press calls the default snapshot, the hold action calls the deeper level ie slight verb vs deep verb and so on which seems to make it a lot easier...but its a far cry from multi state ie cycle though 3 states of the snapshots and double click calls default etc. A simple 2 S/S preset could feed into the looper on snap 1, and give you the straight through path on snap 2. How much more complex does it need to be? Yep thats the issue, once you assign the ss, you lock all the snapshot assigned parameters into that ie you cant turn them on/off per snapshot but more than that, the very nature of the way the looper is used is fully related to the toe switch...just seems quite lame to assign it to a fs when the exp2 trigger is the key. The snapshots always occupy (by choice) the top row but they are limiting in many ways as it hardwires the pararmeters so that means they have to be set for each snapshot where some need to be stomp type. Anyway, the toe would have been perfect but I guess I just have to workaround it... RE: Send...Yeah the send depends on who/where Im playing. If Im at a larger gig, the send goes to FOH for a separate out for the looper where my mix engineer has more control vs small intimate gigs where I just feed it back into the path. I also get a feed back from the FOH into Live and am setting up the lower row of FS to control Live One thing I would like to do but havent worked out is... I would like to have a usb send at the currently selected block in the image so that I have a dry/compressed/eq feed to go into midi guitar in the Live computer. I realise 7&8 are di channels but I would like to trim and compress a bit. Just seems very logical that a send should also be able to route usb and be consistent with the rest of operations ie send/usb as output 'jacks'

Cheers...just making sure I didnt miss anything ie if it was consistent handling or not. Im happy with Exp 1/2 onboard...just be nice to have a bit of flexibility to use the exp2 as external switch etc

Re the video: Helix has a variable input impedance selector. Pod Go has a fixed impedance of 1M Ohm. If he had Helix set to 'Auto' I'd be interested in a comparison using the other impedance setting in Helix. For those less familiar, placing a buffered unit in front of Pod Go will deliver the same highs. A buffered unit might be eg any Boss stomp pedal - the pedal has to be powered but not stomped 'on' to benefit from the buffer. The other buffered device could be something like the Line 6 G10 Relay wireless system that is a buffered device. I use the G10 Relay, so do not have this issue, and is why similarly the Pod Go Wireless doesn't have this issue ie it's an issue ONLY when using cables. However, it is also very much down to the make, length & type of guitar cable you are using because different cables have different impedance, that can make a big difference to your tone. I tested my Pod Go with a good quality Vox coiled cable and my Piranha cables and the tonal difference with both as compared to via the G10T or placing my Boss CS3 pedal in front of Pod Go, was negligible and nothing like the variation in this video, which is quite extreme. Now, whilst there has been a lot of posts on forums/boards/youtube vids on this issue, you need to appreciate that putting a buffered unit in front of ANY MFX unit will brighten tone and not until you hear the difference do you think anything is 'wrong'. now, although Helix offers an impedance selector, a 1M Ohm input impedance is standard in mid-range MFX. Even the brand new Boss GX100 is 1M Ohm, whereas it's big brother the GT1000 is 2M Ohm. So this is not a 'fault' with Pod Go, but an additional option in Helix that is 3 x the price. I have a Vox Tonelab SE, LE and ST - and the same tone brightening occurs when using a buffered device in front of these. I also have a BBE Sonic Stomp Maximiser, and this makes tone sound brighter/clearer too. The same issue applies when using a guitar amp if you plug direct into an amp and then compare with a buffered device in front of it. So, whilst there is a tonal difference, it's because of the more sophisticated impedance options in Helix, rather than an issue with Pod Go Impedance. And here's a further thought. Many of the more expensive wireless devices allow you to change the settings to replicate guitar cable impedance. Why? Because a lot of players don't like the brighter tone, and want it to sound similar to their cabled sound. This whole thing has just got a bit out of proportion. But whilst it's possible Line 6 might be able to do something in v1.40 firmware, I suspect only a physical mod would 'solve' the issue for those seriously troubled by it - but you never know. However, having said all this I still would have hoped that Line 6 would have said something to at least confirm Pod Go impedance definitely is 1M Ohm. The fact they haven't even done so does potentially raise a big question mark and could give some credence to (reportedly) 'techs' who say they have tested Pod Go and found the input impedance to be only a third to a half of 1M Ohm. If that is proved to be the case then it might suggest Line 6 may have cut corners to save a few pennies. The problem is that if Line 6 refuses to comment, customers and potential customers are left to speculate, and that's not a good thing. So Line 6, if you are looking in - please confirm what the Pod Go input impedance is.

Recently updated - pedalboard 2.0

My board in it's current (final?) state. The compressor, Sub n Up, drives and volume all come first in the chain. HX Effects handles all of the other effects and sends midi control to the AA. The AA is the amp sim, plus a bit of "always on" plate or spring reverb. The board itself is on the large size as it was constructed when I was using an M13.

I'm not as attentive to cabling as most :) After many iterations, I'm pretty settled now...I certainly don't want to go through the pain of reprogramming again. The 2 H9's run between the Stereo outs of the HX and the AA6 and the HX is the heart of the system. I use the AA purely as an Amp Sim and HX Blocks can run before the AA6 Amp or between the AA6 and the Cab (ie - what would be a 7CM with a "proper" amp) - before it goes out to the 2 H9's. The Roland controls final volume and the Mission is into the HX and con control HX and/or the H9's - I've got the odd preset where it controls all three at once :) Having said it's settled, I have one fx loop spare in the HX and it's always just sitting there, winking at me...I've no idea what will go in there, but something will one day.

When I first moved away from using/micing my amp, I still had my Elektron Analog Drive and also my H9 on the board. I soon realised that between the HX and AA6, I had everything I needed. I use the HX as my master, using MIDI to change presets on the AA6. The EV5 controls a final volume block on the AA with the Mission attached to the HX. HX Presets are changed from an iPad which calls up the correct patch when I select the song; the HX is normally in snapshot mode. The whole thing is cabled up 4CM meaning I can place HX effects before and after the Amp sections in the AA and still come out of the HX into the Cab section of the AA as the final output into the desk. The best part is I think I've only really scratched the surface of what these 2 can do together. David.

About 40 feet. That's what I got consistently, at 4 different gigs, in different venues and at home. I guess all of them were running wifi. lmao... Funny thing is, my g50 worked PERFECTLY in the same venue when I swapped them. It's running in RF1 mode and I have no issues at all. Where the g70 dropped out 40 feet away (with line of sight), the g50 went about 250 feet with no dropouts at all in a busy casino that I know for a FACT is running Wifi. As a matter of fact, the Wifi router was about 10 feet behind me. I returned the g70 and bought a new g50. It's beautiful and now accommodates fatter rechargeable batteries, as well as having a much more solid jack for the cable. Quit with the excuses, Line 6, and please just FIX THE PROBLEM.