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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/21/2023 in all areas

  1. Be sure to compare the HX Stomp to the Helix Floor. That's what I use (the Stomp) in the studio and for live performance, and it meets my needs. Of course, the Helix Floor has all the bells and whistles!
    1 point
  2. Hi, I agree with the comment above from @soundog - about “Hi-Z” connections and trying to get a decent result by using the generally average sound card available in most computer systems. Your Focusrite will be just the job for your purpose. Focusrite have a good reputation and have been around for quite a while - for many years I used a Focusrite Saffire until I could no longer use the FireWire connection after updating my Mac. Again, as noted above, don’t overdrive your input to Native - here’s a quick guide. Hope this helps/makes sense.
    1 point
  3. I wouldn't care much of FRFR for Bass honestly, and I'd just hunt for a good PA 15" speaker, with a "flattish" response giving you some juice at 40Hz without have to implement a subwoofer. Even something capable of producing -3dB at ~55Hz would do the job. That's if we are talking about a standard 4 strings bass, tuned E standard. If you go lower than that, maybe with a 5 strings, you need big and heavy stuff. It always depends what you need for; gigging? bedroom practice? stage monitor? 8" for bass is a bit weak (the 108 FR starts at 52Hz at -12dB, your E string fundamental sits at 41Hz), unless you are playing at bedroom levels and you don't care much for fundamentals.
    1 point
  4. Hmmm ... those forum posts might originate from some who think certain interfaces don't have a "Hi-Z" guitar input as good as the Helix hardware. As @datacommando sez, your Scarlett will work dandy, as will most any quality interface. Just be sure to keep your input levels low in the Helix Native UI. If you overdrive the input, you won't get good results. Experiment with what works best for you.
    1 point
  5. What you described only happens when POD is connected to the computer with the editor open and it happens because the editor keeps track of all the changes that take place in all the patches loaded into the program, (even just turning an effect off or on is a change), so when you select a patch in the editor it recalls it in the state it was left in when it was last used during the current session. The advantage deriving from this behavior of the editor is to be able to edit several patches and then save them all together with a single command. POD behaves differently when disconnected from the editor, and does not keep track of any changes made to patches already used when selecting the next ones, in this case the only way to make the changes permanent is to manually save (directly on the device) each patch before selecting the next one.. So when POD is disconnected from the editor when a patch is selected it is always recalled exactly the way it was saved. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ All about POD HD500/X help and useful tips
    1 point
  6. It's interesting that you'd make this distinction, which implies that these later models have a different DC voltage requirement than the 300/500/600/700 models of yesteryear. That may in fact be technically true, given that the 1st generation models used 6AA cells for a nominal 9Vdc for their battery supply vs the labeled 7.4Vdc lithium battery used on the JTV. (and, probably, the Shuriken and Standard models as well -- I don't own one of them, so I don't know for sure...) As we know, battery/cell voltages drift downward as they discharge during use, so there's really a range of acceptable voltages that can be applied without damaging the instrument. I'd not be afraid to apply 10volts to my Variax 500 or 600, feeling fairly confident that the circuit would handle the slight overvoltage. That said, I've adjusted my adapter board to output 9 volts, to simulate a battery. When powered by a battery, there's also a Vmin cutoff voltage, below which the guitar onboard processor will not function. I have a pretty good idea what this range is, in a general sense, but won't throw out numbers that I'm only making an educated guess about. But getting back to your comment about adjusting the modified circuit in a box designed to replace an XPS A-B box, I would guess that the XPS, given that it's designed to work with any of the Variax models, doesn't know or care if it's a 500 or a JTV that is connected to it. So what appears that a safe thing to do would be to adjust the output of the DC buck converter used in these projects to the voltage that is output by an XPS A-B box. (In my opinion, it's probably not really required to take this precaution, but it certainly wouldn't hurt to do it!) So to take this safe approach, we need to know what voltage an XPS supplies to the guitar. I have two XPS switch boxes, and they're slightly different. The Line 6 logos are different and the operation of the power LED is also different. One of the boxes came with my original early release Variax 500. The other one was supplied with either the 600 or my JTV 59. I think the documentation refers to the XPS supply as optional, so it most likely came with the 600. I've never even plugged that one in until today, to run a voltage check... What I found is, the output from these two XPS boxes appears to be a well-regulated, nominal 7 volts DC. Specifically, the output of one of them is rock-solid at 6.98 volts, and the other one is 7.01 volts. That's pretty darned close... So my recommendation to anyone considering using this adapter scheme to supply power to any model of Variax via the TRS cable, would be to set the output to 7 volts. The guitar shouldn't know any better, and will thank you for it.
    1 point
  7. JTV power options, at least at the time that this was written. See page 7. James Tyler Variax Pilot's Handbook I can confirm that my JTV-59 works with the XPS footswitch/power supply.
    1 point
  8. The post in which I first proposed using a DC-DC converter to power my Variax 600 discussed an onboard solution that replaced the Variax 6-cell battery holder, and was, indeed, targeted for the original Variax 300/500/600 guitars. But the original circuit can easily be modified with a few additional components so that it can sit on the floor and provide guitar power via the TRS connector, along with the guitar signal, which is passed through from the Variax to an amplifier. (XLR connection and functionality are not included.) But it works reliably as a power source, as testified to by Westryder, who wrote Although I defer to psarkissian's official forum voice and expertise, I would expect that it would also work with other Variax guitars that use the XPS box. Here's a quote from the JTV Pilot's Guide that discusses powering the JTV without a battery: "Note: There are two ways to supply power to Variax without a battery. When connected to VDI Digital Input equipped hardware, such as a POD X3 Live, power is supplied via this connection. Or, use the optional XPSDI direct box/power supply and TRS cable. With this box you can power your Variax and it also works as an A/B box to send your signal out of a DI to go direct to a board or acoustic amplifier with certain models." Variax external power supply (corrected).pdf
    1 point
  9. Not very useful for JTV, Standard or Shuriken guitars. More useful for original Variax using alkaline batteries, and that circuitry.
    1 point
  10. Too bad. I have the original Pod Kidney Bean, multiple Variax guitars from the 2000's and a couple of POD x3 Lives. Nothing is supported by Line 6 anymore. However, my 1940's Martin D-18 still works fine, as do my Fenders, Gibsons, Gretchs, Ibanezes, Taylors, Yamahas, old Chinese knockoffs, and even my old Jeep, Toyotas, Harleys and Indian bikes. Line 6? You f-cked up.
    1 point
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