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POD Go can only send MIDI PC commands, and only when you switch presets. There’s a global setting that controls whether or not it does that. So I think theoretically as long as your Big Sky preset (program) numbers are synchronized with your POD Go PC numbers you should be able to do that, assuming your Big Sky accepts incoming midi over usb. Not sure how you would make the usb connections work though. For further details consult the manual.

Factory reset fixed it! Weird

Hey guys Today we have a play through of one of my tracks, Heavy as Heavy. I recorded the track with all new guitar tones using the Line 6 Helix Rack. I used the PV Panama amp model which is modeled after the Peavey 5150. I stayed inside of the Helix this time using the 4 X 12 Uber T75 Cabinet model using a “Dual” Cab block blending two different mics and placement on the same cab. CHAIN: PRS Tremonti SE loaded with Fishman Fluence Moderns Line 6 Helix Rack using the PV Panama amp model and 4 x 12 Uber T75 cabinet model Into the Universal Audio Apollo Twin which feeds Persons Studio One 3 Drums are courtesy of Toontrack Superior Drummer 3

And all of that for a parameter that he doesn't want to touch anyway, lol... "Well it seems I've stumbled into the 'time well spent' ward..." -Dr Bob Kelso

I think there should be a video of each original amp with several volt meters hooked up to each of the deep amp parameter locations, each amp being the exact same original amp that was modeled. Then, we need to make sure, that they are mic'd exactly the same way with the same mic, as they are in the Helix, which wil be recorded directly. And lets not forget that the room, temp and air pressure must be exactly the same as they were when the amp was modeled. Then, as the actual parameters are changed on the real amps, they are also changed in the Helix equally, so we can not only see the original parameters, but, listen and compare the sounds and settings to the ones in the Helix. Of course we also have to make sure that the voltages created in the amps, are exactly the same as the virtual changes in the Helix. And we would do that by hooking up virtual voltmeters to the actual virtual amps in the Helix in exactly the...............................er.............................ummmmmm..............ohhh............maybe not.

... interesting you should say that, because I learned from Andy Summers that the default values for the deep amp parameters are the closest to the real amps being modeled. Small world, huh?

I wonder if he likes Andy Summers...;)

I believe the underlying sentiment behind his statement was "In the name of all that is decent and holy, please let this bring and end to this pointless discussion". Clearly it has had the opposite effect....

Upstairs on the eighth floor of a four storey building, I'd suspect. Either that or at the Common Sense Department of his brain.

Where did you get the information?

The default values for the deep amp parameters are the closest to the real amps being modeled. There.

We lack curiosity? Hardly. We're just not curious about the one thing that you are curious about. To me at least, the thing you are fixated on is completely irrelevant. I get the sounds that I want and my curiosity lies in experimentation - trying things. Unusual combinations and effects chains that are impossible to do in the real world, for example. I'm not curious about whether or not the default settings of the extra amp parameters are accurate or true to the real amp because of all the reasons people here have already said. Think about it for a minute. If you're modeling an amplifier, wouldn't you want to start with the device as-is? Now, I'm not sure if Line 6 owns all of the ams they model (somehow I doubt that) but even if they did, they would have to physically mod the amp first in order for the default settings to be inaccurate. What possible reason would they have to do that when doing so would basically render that amp a totally different beast than what it was? Doesn't make sense. As for you not trusting your own ears, well, no amount of data will help alleviate that. Your ears will remain as fickle as they are now and you'll still experience the same "love it today, hate it tomorrow" bit. If that is not the case, then the issue is psychological and I stand by my statement that what you're fixated on is really not important with regard to how the Helix sounds. Back to your curiosity comment, without said curiosity, none of us whom are happy with Helix now would have gotten to this level of satisfaction. You need to be curious about the inner workings of the device to get the most out of it. Heck, you have to be curious just to even want to try an amp modeler. You have to want to ask "What if?" If that isn't curiosity, I don't what is.

Here's what I'M curious about....HAVE YOU OPENED A SUPPORT TICKET? Or are you just another TROLL, who'll continue to hang around jerking our chains and insulting us until we stop responding? HAVE YOU OPENED A SUPPORT TICKET? If so, since you refuse to believe anything anybody here says, PLEASE refrain from posting again until you get an answer FROM SUPPORT! Curious people want to know, and YOU ARE THE EMISSARY!

Regarding bias, there really isn't a single value that's optimum, but rather a target range for whatever power tubes it's using. The tolerances of power tubes aren't anything like modern electrical components. They vary a lot even from tubes labeled the same from the same manufacturer. That's why you see tubes sold as "matched pairs". The manufacturer attempts to bin the ones that are performing similarly together. But even then, the bias in an amp can drift. There are some amps where you can't actually adjust the bias apart from modding them. Basically, tube amps aren't static systems. They're always changing. Now, I guess we could say that whenever they model it, they're kind of creating a model of that amp at the moment when it was modeled, so there are discrete, measurable values for these parameters. As to whether those are truly optimum, who knows? That's why the give you a range to play with... I mean, I understand the spirit of the question. I just think that it's one of those things that's not worth worrying about.

Sorry, but Line 6 is not going to 'officially' answer your question here. I understand that you'd like to see a definitive answer from Line 6, and I'm not saying you shouldn't have it. I'm just saying you're not going to get it here. You'd be better off to open a support ticket and ask for that info directly. Also, as phil_m explained there is no hard-wired 'correct' bias. Every physical amp has its own bias. It's quite reasonable to assume (although you don't seem to want to) that the default DEP parameters for every amp model are those that most accurately reflect the physical amp being modeled. I expect they keep tuning the model until, for instance, a Bias value of 5 along with the other related DEP parameters at a value of 5, or 10 or whatever, makes the amp model sound as close as possible to the physical amp. Am I 100% certain about that? No. But why would they do something different? I know you think that you can somehow make things 'better' (despite what your ears tell you) if only you knew what the 'technically optimum values' are, but what we are all trying to tell you is that it's a futile chase. Even if you do manage to get some magic values from Line 6, your ears may tell you something different - because your ears and brain are different from anyone else's. Are you then going to stick with the so-called optimum values or go with what sounds better to you? If the latter, why not start with the default values and experiment until you find the values that work best for you, and forget about whether or not they match some hypothetical optimum values? Again, I'm not trying to say that Line 6 shouldn't give you an answer. But I am saying that you won't hear it here, and it's likely not useful anyway except perhaps to satisfy your obvious curiosity. Good luck in your ongoing quest.

I understand you just fine...my point is that you continue to harp on finding obscure info that will not help you in the long run. You said you want fewer things to tweak... so if you don't want to mess with those parameters, don't. It's not required...pretend it's a "real" amp, where the bias is not only an unknown, but a fixed entity which can't be manipulated anyway. In the end, it either sounds good, or it doesn't. And if you ARE satisfied having created tones that you like, then who cares where the bias (or anything else for that matter) is set? If you found out tomorrow that the default values in question were all wildly inaccurate compared to their real world counterparts, are you gonna go change them all, screwing up tones that you were otherwise happy with? Why...to claim "authenticity"? You're making things harder than they need to be.

If, by your own admission, you don't know what the "real" amps are supposed to sound like, then the peace of mind you're looking for will remain forever elusive, because you'll never actually know if you've achieved it anyway. Stop worrying about where any one parameter should be... there is no magic formula with this stuff. When it sounds good to your ears, that's where it "should" be.

Actually, my *guess* is that yes, the default settings for the deep controls, which aren't always 5/10, reflect each actual amp, or maybe a version of it that the Line 6 amp designer dug. At the very least, they're a reasonable starting point of you want to ignore them. OTOH, maybe a fairly decked-out modeler like Helix isn't where you want the be if you actively dislike options. No shame in that at all.

Well....this is why you have those things hanging off the side of your head called "ears"...they don't work on numbers, they work on sound vibrations. When it sounds right...you're done.

I don't know the answer. But, just looking at several amps, since, so far, every deep parameter is on 5.0 except the bias, I would guess that they are set to the amp that they modeled. I say that since even the same amp from the same manufacturer, often is slightly different. I always thought the idea of the deep parameters is the ability to "custom shop" your amp from where it normally is. In the real world this would require opening up the amp and possibly replacing electrical components. It just wouldn't make sense for them to "customize" the amp for you. They do this with the Master parameter. If an amp doesn't have a master volume knob, like the Marshall Plexi, they have the Master parameter set at 100. This gives you an option of lowering that which, in the real world, doesn't exist. Even if it's not, whaddaya gonna do? But I would definitely approach it as if they are accurate where they're at.

This goes to the question of why people buy a Helix. When I plug into a real amp, I tweak the front panel tone stack to taste, done. There are no DEEP parameters to mess with. Over time, I might try rolling tubes or swapping speakers/cabs, but the amp is what it is. Helix, of course, is reproducing a sound that reflects a mic'd amp, so regardless of the real world amp-in-the-room considerations, a user ALWAYS has to deal with that. Add that no two "identical" tube amps are going to sound exactly alike, and even if they did the sound would vary with the room acoustics, temperature, humidity, barometric pressure, ear wax build-up...... Bottom line, Helix is NOT a real amp. There's no way that the engineers could possibly design it to sound like a real amp-in-the-room. If you're using it as a real amp-in-the-room (or even as a recording tool), they've provided the deep parameters so that a user can tweak it to sound as close to what the user THINKS that real amp in the room the user is in at the time SHOULD sound like. I watched an interesting Anderton's video last night in which a blind-folded Rob Chapman was asked to rate, on a scale of 1 to 10, six $1000+ amps, all played thru the same Marshall cab. Being Chappers, he felt compelled to try to also identify the amps. He managed to correctly guess ONE, the Victory amp (surprise surprise, he liked it best), and he couldn't tell the difference between the REAL Victory and the Kemper profile! Could be the answer for anyone who wants the real amp-in-the-room experience is the Kemper (and a separate cab for each favorite profile), not the Helix? Me, I ain't got that kind of bread, so a tweaking I will go! If it sounds good, it is good!

I'm wondering if the OP meant the deep parameters, which always seem to be set to 5 out of 10, like Sag, and Bias, etc.. But to Cruisin's point, What do you mean OP? There are many threads on how to map an amp's controls to the controls Line 6 represents in their models. The controls line 6 gives should correspond to their counterparts on the real amps. Unfortunately, Line 6 had to make a choice, given that amps all have different names for their controls, even for different years of the same amps, they had to choose between copying the names from the amp, or choosing a sort of consistent naming convention between all amps. They've tried to match the names where they could, but sometimes they don't for the sake of interface consistency. They've also given us controls that some of the real amps don't have. For the most part, though, just about all the amps have most if not all the same controls as their real counterparts. So typically "Master" would be the Power amp volume control. Not all amps have this. For those that don't, Master should be set to 10 "Drive" corresponds to the pre-amp volume control on most amps, many times the only volume control on the amp (those without a Master Volume). "Volume" is a Line 6 gain control to help you balance the volume of the amps across multiple patches, and does not color the tone. Master and Drive do color the tone just like those controls do on the real amps. After that, you're on your own from amp to amp. So to answer your question, when you purchase a real amp, are the knob settings the closest possible? As far as how to set them up, it's highly recommended that you download the manual for the amp in question, and go to YouTube and find videos that show how different people like to set up their amps. Definitely check out HelixHelp.com Also go to TheGearPage forums and search for @benadrian's posts as well as @SHWang_Guitars, and of course Digital Igloo and Frank Ritchotte and Design Guy