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Posts posted by msc1958

  1. I am very happy with the installation of the sub Board housing the CR2430. Continuity test confirmed. I tried powering the amp up. The Display screens were still unlit and inactive and a cyclic clicking sound was heard from both speakers.  I then tried a "Flying Blind" firmware 1.01 SYSEX update, using MidioxSE, Midisport 2x2 anniversary and Windows XP SP3.  The send SYSEX command finished sending the firmware file after about 10 minutes.  MidioxSE displayed its progress and did not hang up.  Pressing the vetta SAVE button did not place the amp in play mode. I am open to any suggestions before I open the amp up and start probing.  Thanks!

  2. Almost there. To remove the PCB, remove 4 hex nuts AND 4 XLR screws. Unplug any ribbon cables attached to board and remove 3 Phillips head screws located atop. Unscrew connection securing green ground wire. Carefully remove PCB.






    Siilicon type glue was used to support and stabilize battery. Remove rubbery silicon glue located between board and battery using a small screwdriver. Notice CR2430 battery appears to float atop board. This space allows soldering both top side and bottom side of board that is double sided. Yes, traces on BOTH sides!




    I am going to try and remove the battery by cutting the connective tabs close to the battery and leaving them on the board. This will allow me to run leads from the tabs to a battery socket that I will install external and separate from the board. I rather apply heat to the tabs than the board and possibly have traces lift.


    Cut the bottom tab first. I used a thin x-acto saw blade. To prevent damage to the board, slip a small piece of credit card material between the board and the bottom side of the negative tab. Place the saw blade between the top side of the tab and battery. While cutting, stabilize any battery movement with fingers.




    Tried to cut the positive top tab with saw blade but the battery moved a lot and was difficult to hold securely. Opted to use variable speed drill and dremel cutting wheel. Do this with a slow speed for better control and to prevent the cutter from uncontrollably spinning off the surface. Try not to cut into the battery. Here's the result.






    Since my wife is a great housekeeper, I took the board outside to removed the residue of cutting wheel dust and metallic tab filings by using short blasts from a can of compressed air.




    Next step is to prepare a scrap piece of breadboard to house the battery holder and tin the tabs on the PCB and tin the wire leads. Install and mount the breadboard assembly. Use hot glue where needed. Reassemble the entire amp.










  3. My Vetta combo has a VDI Card. It has to be removed in order to remove the PCB that houses the CR2430. Remove cable connectors to the VDI and 6 Phillips head screws. Card comes out easy.








    I prefer to place hardware back into its original location. It takes the guesswork out of where everything goes. They also do not wind up on the floor somewhere!

  4. First off, I want to thank all members who I have PM'ed for files and software and have delivered! Many, many thanks also go out to those forum members who actively post and share their knowledge base with us. Now for my situation.......


    I took a chance and purchased a dead Vetta one combo. Plug it in and nothing - no LCD screen activity, not even at any viewing angle - quiet as a mouse. Took the chassis out and the fuse is good and that is a good thing indication that the boards inside did not get fried. Took Ohm readings on the speakers disconnected from their leads and they read 6.4 ohms unloaded. Now, do I really need an isolation transformer to probe for voltages with my DigitalMultiMeter? I've been reading the service manual and you can't miss this warning. I also tested the CR battery and it is .004 volts. I may take the board out and retest the CR battery not sure I had a good ground. As the amp is 16 years old, I'm not hopeful the battery will give an acceptable voltage reading on my DMM.


    Before I Chang the battery, is it worth my time to try a firmware update? I have read that others have had dead screens and updated by Midi and were successful even though they were "Flying Blind".


    Here's the link for flying blind at reddit:





    I am replacing the original CR2032. Chassis removed from Vetta combo by removing 4 speaker leads and 6 Phillips head bolts. The exterior chassis insulating tape is sticky. You may have to persuade the chassis from the cabinet by wiggling gently back and forth. .






    Chassis top is the user interface ( UI ). Separate UI by removing 5 hex socket bolts. Lift UI at that edge and insulating Tape will act as a hinge. Remove 3 ribbon cable connectors from chassis and Carefully peel insulating tape from classic and leave connected to UI.




    Fuse passes continuity test. No burn or dark spots on fuse glass. Next step is remove the battery board from the chassis.



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