jaminjimlp

I used to do this with the Variax and HD 500... two sounds at the same time. (Don't have the Variax anymore.)

 

I did some stuff with two electric sounds at once that was really really fun, too. Probably still have the patches, but no clips.

 

now that's pretty awesome.... makes me want to try a variax

 

 

 

so you plug in the guitar a cat 5 cable and the 1/4" at the same time?

I'm always wary of bundling the power cable alongside signals in case it generates hum and noise.

 

Take a look at this stuff - https://www.techflex.com- it's pretty much the same as Pedal Python but cheaper and you can get it in different diameters to match the number of cables you have. it's about £1/metre here in the UK

 

Mike

yeah I found this in the states http://www.cableorganizer.com/over-expanded-pet/

 

• Extra expandable braided sleeve can open nearly four times its original size, allowing easy installation over cables with large connector end faces - perfect forautomotive or marine application

its about $37 US for a 100' X 1/2" spool

They all look like great ideas but the last one looks most practical just because you could change out any single cable pretty easy even though the first one is real nice and life time warranty if you had a problem and had to send it back that could take some time. I think I will look into the last one for my XLR pair and a extension cord, thanks for posting this I hadn't even thought about it.

I appreciate the path but I specifically need to go from the variax 12 string model to the les paul model and then change a bunch of presets

It's for 'wanted dead or alive'

I don't have a variax so I don't know.... Is it not possible to have a separate variax model for each path? that would be a cool thing to add if helix doesn't at the moment then you could have a acoustic exiting one path and a full blown metal tone out the other or guitar and a bass...

 

In the preset I shared both paths exit without going though each other. I have updated the preset even more this weekend and will add it to the link when I get a chance for anyone who would like to use it. oh and the IR goes in IR slot #6 not #5.

 

That's how my preset is set up already.

There are 4CM templates in the last preset bank as well as others but I haven't done anything with them myself I have seen them and wanted to point it out if you didn't know already...

Scott, if you are still following this, about the only thing that made my GNX4 usable was a guy that modeled amps and artist sounds for that pedal, I think his patches are still available at MFX Supermodels, totally worth it if you are really going to keep using that pedal.

these are the ones I have

@zooey. That doesn't sound good at all.

 

@Gawwuf. The one good sound I do get from my GNX4 is based on one of those Supermodel patches.

I turn down the gain to play Eric Johnson stuff. And turn up the gain for Satch and Vai stuff.

If it wasn't for that one single patch. The unit would only be good as a boat anchor. :)

 

One thing I did not mention before is that the USB<-->Computer on the Helix seemed to be pretty good. Low latency.

That's was plus for the Helix. I was happy with that part of it.

 

-ScottA

which ones did you guys like???  and scott you never replied about the 11 rack have you looked at it? 

 

Lol. Don't say that. The Helix is far better quality than my GNX4 pedal.

My GNX4 is definitley not great. It's too bright sounding and out dated. Which is why I'm looking to upgrade. But the Helix as it is right now. Is too far in the other direction for my taste.

whoa out dated?!?!?! I still have my ART SGX 2000 express and that unit I got in 1992 and it still has some awesome sounds, I think better than the GNX4 but not as good as the 11 rack and it can cut through the mix when the GNX4 can't (if you read what my experience was using it with a band). but I digress I updated because I wanted something I could tweak and get good tones on my own and I can with Helix... and it's compact (2 big things for me) I'm not looking for a fight here just pointing out what worked for me. I hope you can find what your looking for...   

Ive had the Helix for about a week now, and have so many times wondered what time it was in a dark room with just the lights of the pedal.  I then have to turn the light on, or fumble for my phone to see.  As awesome as the Helix is, I think it would be great if they could incorporate a way of having a digital clock in the top right corner.  Nothing seems to be using that real-estate on the main screen.  It would help while playing live for too..when to end the set, when the club closes, etc..  I am still new to the forum and the way things work, but would like to recommend it to line 6.  How do I do that?  Thanks in advance.

WOW this turned ugly really quick......  Dude I was totally serious about a count down timer I think it would be a great Idea and if you had not suggested a clock I would have never thought of it. when the joke was made I just played along and took it as a friendly jab and laughed. even when the point was made about an internal battery was made I still thought, hey the countdown timer will still work. I love the idea but at the same time thought I don't want to sacrifice DSP to get it so a "count down block" would be great if you have enough room left to use it just like the other blocks.

Here's an amazing highly portable product that meets both needs, and then some, at a very reasonable price!

 

http://www.amazon.com/Casio-Mens-W756-1AVCR-Sport-Watch/dp/B0013M6BRA

That looks like some kind a newfangled digital thingy I'm not sure if I would understand how to work it and maybe I can velcro it right to the front of the Helix and put a light on it so I could see the numbers.

As for your ears...yes, perception of tone can absolutely change from one day to the next. Ear fatigue is very real...especially if you're playing through headphones. Play long enough, even at modest volumes, and your ears start to get "numb", for lack of a better term. Tweak too much for too long, and the next day that patch is very likely to sound a bit "off".

This is true, a guy who makes great presets said before about IR's and stuff that after about 15 min of swapping IR cabs or whatever that your "ears are fried" and IR you go through say. 50 or 100 ir's you won't be able tell much difference and you need to walk away for a wile.

 

 

I use the actual firmware

 

On the second day, this effect was in general existant but far smaller without having changed anything (as far as i remember). The presets still sounded a lot better but still not great. So did my ears change overnight or what could be happened? As the samples from other people sound the same to me, i think my ears are still OK? Michael

have you loaded the latest firmware and reset the presets as well because the original presets were not very good because they had a problem where all the candidates somehow got changed to using the same microphone and don't sound the way they were supposed to.

I can say when I first went through the first presets on firmware 1.0 that I couldn't find anything really usable in the whole first bank in the second bank of factory reset as I did like several of the sounds but once I loaded up the latest firmware and then did a reset on of the presets sounds 10 times better.

If you go to post an idea on there add a countdown timer I think that would be useful as well as to how much stage time you have left a lot of times we play with other bands at events and we only have a certain amount of time... So a countdown timer would come in very handy.

Ive had the Helix for about a week now, and have so many times wondered what time it was in a dark room with just the lights of the pedal.  I then have to turn the light on, or fumble for my phone to see.  As awesome as the Helix is, I think it would be great if they could incorporate a way of having a digital clock in the top right corner.  Nothing seems to be using that real-estate on the main screen.  It would help while playing live for too..when to end the set, when the club closes, etc..  I am still new to the forum and the way things work, but would like to recommend it to line 6.  How do I do that?  Thanks in advance.

I play with my band and I also play church I have really enjoyed the helix but I haven't played too much around with the band lately since I've gotten I started to play at church again and always had issues even with my 11 rack. I love the 11 rack but there was just a lot of stuff to carry and a lot more hooking up and everything, but helix is pretty nice I can just run a couple of XLR's to the snake and hook up my two expression pedals and plug in my guitar and my G 50 relay, it makes it much easier and not to mention that I have much better control now than I ever did. I totally love it.

Hi jaminjimlp,

 

The problem with the sound in the Helix was definitley not my EQ settings. It's a weakness (or a strength depending on the listener) in the unit itself.

I tried every way possible to get the thing to push the sound forward (Eq., compression, Tone settings on individual pedals). But it always sounded too distant for my taste.

 

ColonelForbin posted a video of the Glenn Delaune Satriani patch.

Glenn is considered to be an expert at making patches by many. And when I listened to his Satriani patch I can hear the same problem plain as day.

It's not in your face. It's not crisp. It's sort of soft and distant sounding.

This is proof that it's not me or the settings I used. It's just the way the unit sounds.

I don't like the way the Helix delays and the reverbs push the sound away into the background.

I like my guitar to be up front, in your face, and crisp sounding. With lots of compression.

The Helix has more of a low end, softer, deeper, thicker sound to it than I like.

 

For anyone that doesn't hear what I hear. I can try to give you a way to hear something similar.

If you have a Helix. You can do this little experiment.

*Note that I'm going from memory here. And I can't remember the exact names.

 

-Create a new patch with nothing in it

-Add a distortion pedal from the "dist" option

-Now go through each pedal one at while playing.

 There is one in there that really stands out from the others called: "Valve-Rectifier" or something similar

The difference between the rectifier and the other pedals. Is similar to the difference between the Helix and my GNX4.

In other words. The rectifier was the ony usable dist pedal for me (that's not good).

That's where I would begin my sound. And I'm already above and beyond most of the other effects.

 

Next. This is where the sound change becomes more subtle.

Now add a slight amount of reverb to the patch. The sound of the guitar gets slightly push back(not good).

I'm guessing that not everyone will hear this. But I do, and it really, really bothered me.

 

My GNX4 is very bright. Too bright.

But it's got that in your face sound and high compression sound that I like.

That's why mixing them together could have given me the "perfect" sound.

But spending that kind of money on a pedal that needs a helping boost from another cheaper pedal made no sense to me.

 

The Helix sound is a good sound. But it's not the kind sound I like. It's too muddy and too distant.

If Line 6 can figure out how to make the next version hotter with more presence. Then it might be a keeper for me.

If not. It's still a good pedal. Just not the right one for me personally.

 

 

-ScottA

You know I meant to say in my other post but it was getting to long, one thing that I remember hearing Michael Angelo say when talking about his tone was "you know how most people when dialing in there tone cut the mids somewhat or all the way? I crank my mids all the way up to the max" and that guys guitar is in your face!!!  and seriously share that preset please... check out the 11 rack too its in your price range and is 10X better than the GNX4.... 

To me the obvious way round is to have the delay spillover

If the looper can persist from patch to patch with no break then why not a delay?

Its 90% of the time not an issue for me unless I'm using the variax

I need to be able to switch between my acoustic patch and my electric patch quickly for a couple of songs and that's where it punishes me

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/a6ja1ccg9opnsvu/AAANth50j9N_AJMVN2ykjfJua?dl=0

 

Try this, it is an acoustic preset I made that has the 2 paths separate with just moving the EXP 2 (if you don't have an EXP just re-assign it to EXP1) the other sound is kinda well ... metal I am sure you will need to tweak it to your liking as this was saved when I first made the preset and have tweaked it a lot more for myself. the Taylor ir needs to be at the 5th position in you ir list (I think) my guitar sounds better or more like an acoustic using both pick ups or the neck pick up. I have EMG 81 and 85. I have found this preset to be all I need when I play at church.

I'm posting this not to slam Line 6. But to give them some honest feedback.

 

I bought the Helix recently because of all positive word of mouth about it on the web.

I really liked the UI design. But I just could not get the kind of sound I wanted from it.

No matter what I did. The sound was always a little bit muddy. And it sounded like I was playing behind the band.

I wrote several custom patches, and I tried every option it had (EQ, compression, etc.) But it just didn't have the "presence" I wanted.

It always felt "Back of the Band". It lacked a cutting edge to my ears.

 

I have been using a Digitech GNX4 pedal for about 10 years. And while most of it is total garbage. I do have one custom Joe Satriani sounding style patch that makes the thing sound pretty darn good. Although a little bit thin sounding.

I spent $400.00 for this pedal roughly 10 years ago. And I'm basically only getting one good usable sound from it.

I was hoping the Helix would give me a catalog of other sounds to use. Plus a better "Satch" sound than my GNX4 pedal.

But I just did not like the bottom heavy and muddy sounds from the Helix.

 

On my GNX4. I can switch quickly and easily between wah & pitch shifter with the toe switch using the on board rocker pedal. And I use that all of the time.

On the Helix. You can't do that. You have to play this little game of disable the wah and enable the pitch shifter thing. That was very disappointing to me.

 

With my GNX4. If I lower the volume knob on my guitar to about half. As I pick the strings. The notes start off muted and then slowly ramp up. As If I'm rolling the volume knob up by hand. Eddie Van Halen uses this volume knob rolling technique very heavily in his solos.

This happens because the GNX is cheaper. But I have grown to really love this behavior. It makes soft songs sound so beautiful. And I use it constantly. And this behavior is gone on the Helix. Because the Helix is more accurate.

I would severely miss this behavior if it was taken away from me. Maybe this "auto volume roll up" can be built in as an effect?

 

 

In summation:

-The Helix has a thicker, muddier, sound than what I wanted. It's not really bad. But it lacked a cutting edge to my ears.

-My old GNX4 has a thinner, cheaper, sound than what I want. But I love the way the pedal works (even if it's inaccurate).

-The Helix removes some of the GNX4 behaviors that I love and use all of the time.

-The selection of amps was a bit limited compared to other pedals

 

If the Helix cost around $600.00. I probably would not have returned it.

I would have kept it and tried to mix it with my GNX4 pedal to try and get that middle sound that I'm looking for.

But at a price tag of $1500.00. It made no sense to keep it.

 

Please take these things as constructive feedback. And not criticisms. The unit just wasn't quite what I wanted or hoped it would be.

I wasn't turned off by it. But I wasn't $1500.00 worth of turned on by it either. ;-)

But it wasn't too far from the target. I actually thought about keeping it for a while.

I can't wait to try out the next version.

 

 

-ScottA

Hey bro, I have an old GNX4 and the preset disk made by a 3rd party (the good ones) I forget the name right now... I got it about a year or 2 ago when I was using my 11 rack for most playing out but wanted something I could leave at church and was easy to carry so at $80 bucks I thought hey how bad could it be it was a lot newer than my art sgx 2000 so how bad could it be? I got it, I thought it sounded great but when I played with the band it was like no matter how much louder I was I got lost in the mix and couldn't hear myself. I asked on the 11 rack forum about it and a fellow on there who owned it as well at one time (singtall) told me "that was the problem" with the GNX4 he explained that the digital "fizz" that the models had took so much mid range cut to sound good that you just couldn't cut though the mix with it and there is no "fix" except another MFX peddle and it was pretty much better as a door stop. I love the sound I got from my 11 rack and still have it but dialing in tones for me was a chore but with the help of singtall, it is a bad boy... but I wanted to get the Helix for the fact it was an all in one floor unit  and I can dial up a tone easily I love it. if you wan't something in the $600 range try out the 11 rack you get PT with it so its like they throw it in for free... or just look for a unit with the expansion pack on ebay and there around $300 the only bad thing is you need a midi foot controller also.

 

so the "playing behind the band" thing may have been the way you were EQing your tones... I guess if you scoop out to much of the mids you just can cut through the mix... ( I'm not an engineer so I may have the terminology wrong)

 

all that said I wanted to see if you would share that GNX4 preset with me so when I pass it along to someone they might be able to use it.  

OK Get your mouse ready to mark "problem solved" or is it "best answer"....

 

Here is what you need to do: buy 2 Helix's and an A - B Switch box connect them accordingly,

set up your patches so that when you need to change from one to the other all you do is hit the A B Switch

then wile you are still playing change the preset on the Helix your not currently playing through

and then hit the A B Switch when its time for the next "Tone"

if the changes are really fast between tones in a particular song well those "tap dancing" lessons your mama made you go to when you were a kind just paid off big time!!!

and if that's not complicated enough for you. DI can make a MIDI controlled A B Switch and you can link the 2 Helix's together with the A B Switch and you can use a Midi controller with a computer attached to already have the programmed preset list send a signal to the Helix you are about to use with the preset your about to go to. (this is where a well trained roadie would come in handy and could do all this back stage for you as long as he doesn't get to drunk before or during the show)

 

There now that wasn't so hard was it. I mean really, wasn't it obvious where I was going with this?!? (try to envision me patting myself on the back) WOW I'm like some kind of Einstein of MFX units I just know Line 6 is trying to contact me and give me a job right now as you are reading this....  

 

Yeah I know it would REALLY work but the point is lighten up guys... I hope you got a laugh out of this as I did wile writing it.

 

The weird thing is I had thought of this scenario back in 1992 when I had bought an ART SGX 2000 and a friend used it for a gig and said to me "there's to much time between presets for me to get one" who knew 25 years later we would still face the same issue. 

 

I do all I need to for each song in 1 preset and find it is sufficient for me.

Really you don't need to use an a-b switch here you can just have them in the same path. Just one block "on" and one block "bypassed", both assigned to the same toggle. and save it of course.

thanks everyone for the reply. I also forgot to add, I pulled the trigger to soon and I got me the sp1-r which I guess is for axefx2. Doesn't work with the helix rack. any way can I rewire this instead? thanks once again for the help.

From:

http://missionengineering.com/

 Wiring.

Most potentiometers have three connectors; Clockwise, Counter-clockwise, and Wiper. Amazingly, there are multiple different ways these can be wired, all achieving largely the same result, which means yet more variations for expression pedals. The most common expression pedal wiring is to connect the pot to a 1/4″ stereo (TRS) instrument jack as follows:

CW —— Sleeve

Wiper — Tip

CCW —– Ring

An alternative is with the tip and the ring reversed as follows:

CW —— Sleeve

Wiper — Ring

CCW —– Tip

Yet a third way is as follows:

CW —— Sleeve

Wiper — Tip

CCW —– Tip

 

In this last one, the wiper and CCW are bonded together and connected to the tip and the ring is unused. This requires the use of a mono (TS) cable such as a regular guitar cable, in place of the stereo (TRS) cable used in the other two. These three are the most common that we see in expression pedals, but we keep finding more. Sometimes a dual gang potentiometer is wired in parallel to create a single pot with half the resistance. For example you may see a dual 20K Ohm potentiometer bridged into a single 10K. In this case the pedal will function the same as if it were a native 10K Ohm single pot.

.....................................

 

OK so now we know we can do this:

 

This also alleviated the backwards operation problem and the 0 - 100 - 0 problem...

 

The third way is the Line 6 way. (after some google searches I found this out)

 

which means after the conversion you don't need to use TRS cables anymore you can use TS cables. Also now with either the 12k ohm pot in the one and the 10k ohm pot in the other I get full 0% to 100% on the Helix control.

here is what I did to make mine compatible so there would be no need for re configuring. the Potenteiometer on this 1 is 10k

Here is before

here is after... so just moving 1 wire (the green/ring) and put it together with the (red/Tip) and the (black/sleeve) stays the same.

also I jumped out the black on the side pot that is for changing the "throw" of it to disable it and not doing it made it have issues when you adjusted it it would not go back to full throw. (If that makes any scents to you)

My other one

here is after... so just moving 1 wire (the green/ring) and put it together with the (red/Tip) and the (black/sleeve) stays the same.

 

this model had a duel 24k pot and I soldered each connection 1,2 and 3 to 1,2 and 3 (you see it better in the picture above) making it a single 12k pot

 

This can be done with a soldering iron with no extra solder. just heat up the green wire pull it off and put it on with the red and heat it up to connect it. 

 

 

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

 

I am re-posting this from another thread on the same thing

 

 

 

 

 

ALSO:

 

from yet another post....

 

Really you could take an old crybaby or Vox waH and just rewire it and it would work the same.

 

Here is one new:

http://www.guitarcen...ffects-Pedal.gc

 

Most wah wahs have a 100k or a 250K potentiometer, most expression pedal seem to have something around 10k to 25K, after doing a little research there is some folks that said they have used 250 K pot and rewired a Wawa pedal to work as an expression pedal and it worked fine or you can just buy a new potentiometer (thank sure it is linear and not audio taper or logarithmic) for an expression pedal and put it in if you have to but I would try to go ahead and wire it up first according to the way that I have explained above. 

 

Remember you don't have to worry about getting tip ring sleeve input jacks just tip sleeve is all you need and is what is already on a Wawa pedal 

From:

http://missionengineering.com/

 Wiring.
Most potentiometers have three connectors; Clockwise, Counter-clockwise, and Wiper. Amazingly, there are multiple different ways these can be wired, all achieving largely the same result, which means yet more variations for expression pedals. The most common expression pedal wiring is to connect the pot to a 1/4″ stereo (TRS) instrument jack as follows:

CW —— Sleeve
Wiper — Tip
CCW —– Ring

An alternative is with the tip and the ring reversed as follows:

CW —— Sleeve
Wiper — Ring
CCW —– Tip

Yet a third way is as follows:

CW —— Sleeve
Wiper — Tip
CCW —– Tip

 

In this last one, the wiper and CCW are bonded together and connected to the tip and the ring is unused. This requires the use of a mono (TS) cable such as a regular guitar cable, in place of the stereo (TRS) cable used in the other two. These three are the most common that we see in expression pedals, but we keep finding more. Sometimes a dual gang potentiometer is wired in parallel to create a single pot with half the resistance. For example you may see a dual 20K Ohm potentiometer bridged into a single 10K. In this case the pedal will function the same as if it were a native 10K Ohm single pot.

.....................................

 

OK so now we know we can do this:

 

This also alleviated the backwards operation problem and the 0 - 100 - 0 problem...

 

The third way is the Line 6 way. (after some google searches I found this out)

 

which means after the conversion you don't need to use TRS cables anymore you can use TS cables. Also now with either the 12k ohm pot in the one and the 10k ohm pot in the other I get full 0% to 100% on the Helix control.

here is what I did to make mine compatible so there would be no need for re configuring. the Potenteiometer on this 1 is 10k

Here is before

here is after... so just moving 1 wire (the green/ring) and put it together with the (red/Tip) and the (black/sleeve) stays the same.

also I jumped out the black on the side pot that is for changing the "throw" of it to disable it and not doing it made it have issues when you adjusted it it would not go back to full throw. (If that makes any scents to you)

My other one

here is after... so just moving 1 wire (the green/ring) and put it together with the (red/Tip) and the (black/sleeve) stays the same.

 

this model had a duel 24k pot and I soldered each connection 1,2 and 3 to 1,2 and 3 (you see it better in the picture above) making it a single 12k pot

 

This can be done with a soldering iron with no extra solder. just heat up the green wire pull it off and put it on with the red and heat it up to connect it. 

 

 

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

 

I am re-posting this from another thread on the same thing

 

 

 

 

 

ALSO:

 

from yet another post....

 

Really you could take an old crybaby or Vox waH and just rewire it and it would work the same.

Here is one new:
http://www.guitarcen...ffects-Pedal.gc

Most wah wahs have a 100k or a 250K potentiometer, most expression pedal seem to have something around 10k to 25K, after doing a little research there is some folks that said they have used 250 K pot and rewired a Wawa pedal to work as an expression pedal and it worked fine or you can just buy a new potentiometer (thank sure it is linear and not audio taper or logarithmic) for an expression pedal and put it in if you have to but I would try to go ahead and wire it up first according to the way that I have explained above. 

Remember you don't have to worry about getting tip ring sleeve input jacks just tip sleeve is all you need and is what is already on a Wawa pedal 

just for future refrence for others coming to the game late...........................

 

 

From:

http://missionengineering.com/

 Wiring.
Most potentiometers have three connectors; Clockwise, Counter-clockwise, and Wiper. Amazingly, there are multiple different ways these can be wired, all achieving largely the same result, which means yet more variations for expression pedals. The most common expression pedal wiring is to connect the pot to a 1/4″ stereo (TRS) instrument jack as follows:

CW —— Sleeve
Wiper — Tip
CCW —– Ring

An alternative is with the tip and the ring reversed as follows:

CW —— Sleeve
Wiper — Ring
CCW —– Tip

Yet a third way is as follows:

CW —— Sleeve
Wiper — Tip
CCW —– Tip

 

In this last one, the wiper and CCW are bonded together and connected to the tip and the ring is unused. This requires the use of a mono (TS) cable such as a regular guitar cable, in place of the stereo (TRS) cable used in the other two. These three are the most common that we see in expression pedals, but we keep finding more. Sometimes a dual gang potentiometer is wired in parallel to create a single pot with half the resistance. For example you may see a dual 20K Ohm potentiometer bridged into a single 10K. In this case the pedal will function the same as if it were a native 10K Ohm single pot.

.....................................

 

OK so now we know we can do this:

 

This also alleviated the backwards operation problem and the 0 - 100 - 0 problem...

 

The third way is the Line 6 way. (after some google searches I found this out)

 

which means after the conversion you don't need to use TRS cables anymore you can use TS cables. Also now with either the 12k ohm pot in the one and the 10k ohm pot in the other I get full 0% to 100% on the Helix control.

here is what I did to make mine compatible so there would be no need for re configuring. the Potenteiometer on this 1 is 10k

Here is before

here is after... so just moving 1 wire (the green/ring) and put it together with the (red/Tip) and the (black/sleeve) stays the same.

also I jumped out the black on the side pot that is for changing the "throw" of it to disable it and not doing it made it have issues when you adjusted it it would not go back to full throw. (If that makes any scents to you)

My other one

here is after... so just moving 1 wire (the green/ring) and put it together with the (red/Tip) and the (black/sleeve) stays the same.

 

this model had a duel 24k pot and I soldered each connection 1,2 and 3 to 1,2 and 3 (you see it better in the picture above) making it a single 12k pot

 

This can be done with a soldering iron with no extra solder. just heat up the green wire pull it off and put it on with the red and heat it up to connect it. 

 

 

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

 

I am re-posting this from another thread on the same thing

 

 

 

 

 

ALSO:

 

from yet another post....

 

Really you could take an old crybaby or Vox waH and just rewire it and it would work the same.

Here is one new:
http://www.guitarcen...ffects-Pedal.gc

Most wah wahs have a 100k or a 250K potentiometer, most expression pedal seem to have something around 10k to 25K, after doing a little research there is some folks that said they have used 250 K pot and rewired a Wawa pedal to work as an expression pedal and it worked fine or you can just buy a new potentiometer (thank sure it is linear and not audio taper or logarithmic) for an expression pedal and put it in if you have to but I would try to go ahead and wire it up first according to the way that I have explained above. 

Remember you don't have to worry about getting tip ring sleeve input jacks just tip sleeve is all you need and is what is already on a Wawa pedal 

From:

http://missionengineering.com/

 Wiring.
Most potentiometers have three connectors; Clockwise, Counter-clockwise, and Wiper. Amazingly, there are multiple different ways these can be wired, all achieving largely the same result, which means yet more variations for expression pedals. The most common expression pedal wiring is to connect the pot to a 1/4″ stereo (TRS) instrument jack as follows:

CW —— Sleeve
Wiper — Tip
CCW —– Ring

An alternative is with the tip and the ring reversed as follows:

CW —— Sleeve
Wiper — Ring
CCW —– Tip

Yet a third way is as follows:

CW —— Sleeve
Wiper — Tip
CCW —– Tip

 

In this last one, the wiper and CCW are bonded together and connected to the tip and the ring is unused. This requires the use of a mono (TS) cable such as a regular guitar cable, in place of the stereo (TRS) cable used in the other two. These three are the most common that we see in expression pedals, but we keep finding more. Sometimes a dual gang potentiometer is wired in parallel to create a single pot with half the resistance. For example you may see a dual 20K Ohm potentiometer bridged into a single 10K. In this case the pedal will function the same as if it were a native 10K Ohm single pot.

.....................................

 

OK so now we know we can do this:

 

This also alleviated the backwards operation problem and the 0 - 100 - 0 problem...

 

The third way is the Line 6 way. (after some google searches I found this out)

 

which means after the conversion you don't need to use TRS cables anymore you can use TS cables. Also now with either the 12k ohm pot in the one and the 10k ohm pot in the other I get full 0% to 100% on the Helix control.

here is what I did to make mine compatible so there would be no need for re configuring. the Potenteiometer on this 1 is 10k

Here is before

here is after... so just moving 1 wire (the green/ring) and put it together with the (red/Tip) and the (black/sleeve) stays the same.

also I jumped out the black on the side pot that is for changing the "throw" of it to disable it and not doing it made it have issues when you adjusted it it would not go back to full throw. (If that makes any scents to you)

My other one

here is after... so just moving 1 wire (the green/ring) and put it together with the (red/Tip) and the (black/sleeve) stays the same.

 

this model had a duel 24k pot and I soldered each connection 1,2 and 3 to 1,2 and 3 (you see it better in the picture above) making it a single 12k pot

 

This can be done with a soldering iron with no extra solder. just heat up the green wire pull it off and put it on with the red and heat it up to connect it. 

 

 

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

 

I am re-posting this from another thread on the same thing

 

 

 

 

 

ALSO:

 

from yet another post....

 

Really you could take an old crybaby or Vox waH and just rewire it and it would work the same.

Here is one new:
http://www.guitarcen...ffects-Pedal.gc

Most wah wahs have a 100k or a 250K potentiometer, most expression pedal seem to have something around 10k to 25K, after doing a little research there is some folks that said they have used 250 K pot and rewired a Wawa pedal to work as an expression pedal and it worked fine or you can just buy a new potentiometer (thank sure it is linear and not audio taper or logarithmic) for an expression pedal and put it in if you have to but I would try to go ahead and wire it up first according to the way that I have explained above. 

Remember you don't have to worry about getting tip ring sleeve input jacks just tip sleeve is all you need and is what is already on a Wawa pedal 

Really you could take an old crybaby or Vox waH and just rewire it and it would work the same.

 

Here is one new:

http://www.guitarcenter.com/Vox/V845-Classic-Wah-Wah-Guitar-Effects-Pedal.gc

 

Most wah wahs have a 100k or a 250K potentiometer, most expression pedal seem to have something around 10k to 25K, after doing a little research there is some folks that said they have used 250 K pot and rewired a Wawa pedal to work as an expression pedal and it worked fine or you can just buy a new potentiometer (thank sure it is linear and not audio taper or logarithmic) for an expression pedal and put it in if you have to but I would try to go ahead and wire it up first according to the way that I have explained above.

 

Remember you don't have to worry about getting tip ring sleeve input jacks just tip sleeve is all you need and is what is already on a Wawa pedal

 

 

Just looked up prices in the UK for Mission Engineering EP1-L6. :blink:

 

Are we really talking £120 ($170 US) for a pedal with a simple Pot in it?

I've tried this with my EP1-KP.. Bridging the green and red does nothing. The helix won't recognize it at all. Still not wanting to fork out $150 just for a mono linear potentiometer in a new enclosure.... Mission won't tell me how to modify it as it's some contract bulls..t

 

OK you have to move the green to the red you cannot just put a wire across and bridge them it doesn't work that way you have to take your green off of its connection and put it on the red. try that and see if it will work and this must be done on the Jack side not on the pot. leave the pot connected the way it is. make sure it is a 10 or 12k pot. The green and the red must be on the tip connection of the Jack. You only need a regular instrument cable you don't need a TRS cable....

 

If you still can't figure it out take it a few pictures of your pedal like I did so that I can see what is going on with your situation try to give me a good shot of the back of the potentiometer so I can see the ohm rating on it and also the designation Of 1,2,3 connections.

Sorry if I am stating the obvious here, not sure whether this was clear, particularly to someone who does not yet own an L3t, but the L3t auto senses whether it is upright or horizontal and automatically sets the mode to either reference or monitor accordingly. The L3t speaker can even sense whether it is upright on the floor or pole mounted and will adjust its sound accordingly. However, if you prefer another mode (reference, monitor, guitar, acoustic, etc.) you can change this by pressing the "Speaker Mode" button on the back of the L3t, regardless of the speakers spatial orientation.

This is absolutely right and the "sensing" thing is an accelerometer like in your phone that tells the device that you have turned it to another position. 

I too, am currently using an L2T with the Helix in PA Ref mode. Does anyone know if I will see any benefit to using the official Line 6 L6 LINK cable as opposed to a very high quality BLUE microphones mic XLR cable? hate to shell out 60 bucks if I dont have to, but willing if it is better. Eventually I will be adding an L2M for stereo.

I have been using Dmx Cables for 3 years now they work great. Line 6 says the only thing they recommend is AES/EBU cables. you can use a regular mic cable as long as the ground is separate from the 3 pins but it may have bad connection issues. I have done just that when I was at the house noodling and was to lazy to get up and go get them from the other room. but to answer your question, find the best quality ones you can at the lowest price.

 

And if I was not clear enough in my thoughts on using the L2 VS the L3 I'll try to just make it real short and sweet and unless you're playing in a 7 string an 8 string or a bass just get some L2M's, you'll save quite a bit of money and you won't miss anything because if you were using the L3's you're not using the low-frequency driver. i.e. The Second 10 inch woofer because the crossover.