jaminjimlp

Thanks, make sense, I will compare the two.

I believe it depends on whether your Helix preset uses a cab/mic model. If not, set the L2 to Electric Guitar and it adds some EQ to simulate a guitar cabinet. If you are using a cab/mic in the preset (that was my assumption) then set the L2 to PA/Reference to give more of an FRFR EQ.

Here's what the manual says about the Electric Guitar mode:

The overall frequency response emulates the sound of a 212 combo amp. The 10†speaker plays full range, with the horn adding only the smallest amount of sparkle.

Edit: So it seems to me that if you use a cab/mic in the preset and then also set the speaker mode to Electric Guitar then you are doubling up on the cab modelling. That may sound great and there's nothing wrong with doing it. Let your ears be the guide.

All this being said and yes it is correct but if you are looking to hear what your helix will sound like coming out of the FOH then well you're making presets at home with an L2 it would be better to use it on PA reference with the L6 link so that you'll have complete transparency and know what your sound will be coming out from FOH if you were to do it the other way without using FRFR set up then you are coloring the sound so it will not give you a true impression of what will come out of the XLR into FOH

I have both L2's and L3's because I have the Line 6 Dream stage and I found out a long time ago (a few years) messing around with them and my 11 rack I noticed that with the L3's I was only hearing the guitar out of 1 of the drivers I thought something was wrong and I tried the other and it was the same so I asked in a post on the forum for the stage source  speakers and found out from Don Boomer a line 6 tech told me that was normal because of the cross over in the speaker and if I plugged in a bass and sure enough playing on the low end there was sound from both drivers on the L3's so unless you are playing a 7 or 8 string guitar and doing dive bombs on the whammy bar or a bass you will never get down to the frequency passed the crossover to use the other driver and that kinda makes it a waste, but if you use the L3T's and L6 link them and use the mixers (2x L3T=10 channel mixer) on them to run a full band that will be worth it.

 

that being said the 2 L2M's with the L6 Link are real sweat and you will save a few hundred bucks and your back and they are extremely loud and clear.

Here is a thread that was started here a wile ago and there is some good ones here including the kemper cab thats floating around (sound very good)

 

http://line6.com/support/topic/17076-links-for-free-impulse-responses-ir-here/?hl=free

Thanks Jim, did they say what "kind" of lube? I'm assuming not "astroglide".

that I don't know but it is clear and like a grease or jell

I don't know what cab it is supposed to be but it was made with a kemper and sounds better that most I have heard.

Load the helix app on your computer if you haven't already, go to impulses, drag-and-drop that IR on to the helix app at whatever position that you want to put it in one of your presets and a block and go to IR cabs and load the IR block then when you select the IR block you will see that you can select which are or will be used in the preset do not use the cab block with an amp but use IR block and you will see the difference... we have put some links out before for free IR's that were found around the web and if you search I'm sure you will find it I will put a link from my dropbox here. so you can see there are several on there that you may try. But with the due diligence you can do a lot of adjusting to the Helix cabs that are already on it because of Mic position and other settings.

 

 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/m19ymuuus8qid7d/AACLHcDWpEUZsUF54GLom6Xua?dl=0

I have it from a very reliable source which I cannot reveal so please don't ask me to... during the assembly of these units the bushing between the pedal and the actual mount was left dry (not deliberately) the rest of the axle has lube on it, that is where the problem lies so if you just add the small drop of lube at the right side of the pedal axel bushing you will have no more squeaks.

I fixed it with a drop of lube on the right side of the peddle axle bushing.

Dude I tried your preset. I liked the idea that there is a 2 channel amp running at the same patch. I just don't like the sound of the amp, too bass for my style and too dark.

Thanks for checking it out. the metal tone is really heavy on it but I guess that the clean, rock, metal tones was what I was looking at a 3 channel kinda thing. if the bass is to much on the metal tone you can go in the para EQ at the end of path 1 and roll off some more low end. If you would like to change amps or some thing I would like to see what you come up with.

 

The original preset used an IR I made and thought it sounded better but I wanted to try and get it to sound the same with the stock cabs. I will share that if you want it.

Wow I can't get anyone to even try this ...? it might be the most awesome preset you ever heard... or not... should I make a video? or a sound cloud sample of it? maybe I shouldn't have asked for help.

Bro, would like to help you, but I don't know what you try to achieve, and I am pretty sure that most if not all of the viewers have the same opinion.

 

 

Tone is subjective - so if it sounds good to you, it doesn't matter what others think!

Its hard to validate sounds you like with the opinions of others because we all like different things :)

so did you try it?

I see the 86 people have looked at this but no one has replied, has anyone tried this? I was hoping someone would at least say hey man it sucks, I like it or hey is great or whatever. you know I can take constructive criticism and I have no problem with that you won't hurt my feelings I promise you that.

 

Really I think it sounds pretty dang good but if you don't that's OK. I would just like to know somebody tried it.

I made it with the new matchstick amp on path 1 and put all the same FX on each path and have a toggle control the same FX on each path. I put a toggle called High Gian that swaps paths, the path 2 amp is supposed to be clean and you can hit the Timmy distortion to get a little overdriven sound and you can hit the High Gain for more of a hard rock/metal sound. Also setup a lead boost toggle. Kind of like a 3 channel amp.

 

Let me know if you think it sounds good, I don't know how good my ear for tone is. I am using a charvel with an emg 81 to make it.

 

 

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/txuw9vlyhg4iwoy/DUDE%27S%20MATCHLESS.hlx?dl=0

this was the first way I figured out how to do that with the exp...

 

put a volume peddle block on each path, set each path input to guitar, control each with say exp 2 then set one for 100% min - 0% max and the other to 0% min and 100% max it works just fine but it has a blend of the 2 paths during the switch from one to the other.

 

The better way is to start with the same thing a vol block on path 1 and a vol block on path 2, set each path input to guitar, set each one to 0% on both min and max now instead of using the exp use a toggle to control both the strip will say "multiple (2)" (I name mine either: Dirty, High Gain or Amp Swap) now bypass one and not the other and save your preset and wa la you have instant switch of tones, it is better to do this with the main paths so you can add alot of FX with each amp also you can make a lead boost with the "simple EQ and just around 3 to 4 db + on the output it's kinda like having a 3 channel amp one each preset. Here is one I made with the new matchstick amp and put all the same FX on each path and have a toggle control the same FX on each path... let me know if you think it sounds good, I don't know how good my ear for tone is. I am using a charvel with an emg 81 to make it.

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/txuw9vlyhg4iwoy/DUDE%27S%20MATCHLESS.hlx?dl=0

The new firmware update is awesome! Some new distortion/overdrive pedals, a much needed second phaser pedal with some crucial options, a new flanger and autofilter, a new tremolo, as well as fixes to the Helix app and the issue with the expression pedal losing ability to control the volume after a custom label. The new ability to swap multiple block footswitch assignments from one footswitch to the other is a huge timesaver. L6 is clearly listening to their customers and so far is really on the ball with enhancements and bug fixes. For my money this is the best MFX on the market right now at any price and getting better by the month.  You could not pry this thing away from me. Great job guys! Thank you very much!

a big +1 from me too... also the 4 sec clearing of the touch select, for a wile I had turned it off because I was sick of constantly having to cansel it because I still have mine on the desk and hand editing presets.

 

i talked to one of the guys in tech at line 6, he said that there is no need to do global reset on 1.06.  and there hopefully will be an update soon telling us not to do it anymore.

yes but if you didn't this time you won't see the matchstick presets its a great reference or start point for some great presets.

I tried a new ribbon mic (made sure the phantom power was off because it will ruin a ribbon mic) the volume was super low... try using the template for mic's in the last preset bank.

did you try reloading the 1,06 firmware?

 

delete all the blocks and start over.

Guess I shouldn't be giving tips as it took me 3 hours or more to do the update, I was about to box it up and take it back but I gave it one more try and it worked. Line 6 installer wouldn't read my helix, so my thing was different than yours.

Good luck

mine was doing that as well I had 1.04 and the helix app did see it but the line 6 updater didn't... after trying unplugging and plugging I just switched the helix off wile still connected to usb and soon as it booted it saw it I updated and the new amps are sweet,,,, thanks Line 6.

L6, any ideas on when the El Capitan clicking and popping will be fixed?  It's really bad and I can't do any reamping because of it.  I upgraded to EC before purchasing the Helix because after tests all my other stuff worked perfectly. 

not yet ... it's a mac problem but DI said they may not wait on apple to fix it.

I remember building a simple compression stomp box from a electronics warehouse kit way back when (maybe 25 years ago) and it explained that what was happening with the waive form because of the circuit and it went something like this: the sound waive enters the input of the circuit and is boosted then the peak of the waive gets "cut off" so the result is that no matter how light or hard you play the strings the out put volume will be the same.

 

Here is the best image I could find to illustrate what is happening (there was something like this in the kit): 

the threshold wold be the "cut off" point"

 

so that being said PeterHamm is right.

 

Any signal coming into a compression peddle will be amplified and causing the same thing you are talking about. I have heard of some people saying they put there volume peddle block at the end of the chain, but I haven't tried that myself. I guess my brain can't let go of the "real world application" of a volume peddle.

just listened to the 

Line 6 Helix Matchless Amp demo by Glenn DeLaune they sound sweet

 

From:

http://missionengineering.com/

 Wiring.
Most potentiometers have three connectors; Clockwise, Counter-clockwise, and Wiper. Amazingly, there are multiple different ways these can be wired, all achieving largely the same result, which means yet more variations for expression pedals. The most common expression pedal wiring is to connect the pot to a 1/4″ stereo (TRS) instrument jack as follows:

CW —— Sleeve
Wiper — Tip
CCW —– Ring

An alternative is with the tip and the ring reversed as follows:

CW —— Sleeve
Wiper — Ring
CCW —– Tip

Yet a third way is as follows:

CW —— Sleeve
Wiper — Tip
CCW —– Tip

 

In this last one, the wiper and CCW are bonded together and connected to the tip and the ring is unused. This requires the use of a mono (TS) cable such as a regular guitar cable, in place of the stereo (TRS) cable used in the other two. These three are the most common that we see in expression pedals, but we keep finding more. Sometimes a dual gang potentiometer is wired in parallel to create a single pot with half the resistance. For example you may see a dual 20K Ohm potentiometer bridged into a single 10K. In this case the pedal will function the same as if it were a native 10K Ohm single pot.

.....................................

 

OK so now we know we can do this:

 

This also alleviated the backwards operation problem and the 0 - 100 - 0 problem...

 

The third way is the Line 6 way. (after some google searches I found this out)

 

which means after the conversion you don't need to use TRS cables anymore you can use TS cables. Also now with either the 12k ohm pot in the one and the 10k ohm pot in the other I get full 0% to 100% on the Helix control.

here is what I did to make mine compatible so there would be no need for re configuring. the Potenteiometer on this 1 is 10k

Here is before

here is after... so just moving 1 wire (the green/ring) and put it together with the (red/Tip) and the (black/sleeve) stays the same.

also I jumped out the black on the side pot that is for changing the "throw" of it to disable it and not doing it made it have issues when you adjusted it it would not go back to full throw. (If that makes any scents to you)

My other one

here is after... so just moving 1 wire (the green/ring) and put it together with the (red/Tip) and the (black/sleeve) stays the same.

 

this model had a duel 24k pot and I soldered each connection 1,2 and 3 to 1,2 and 3 (you see it better in the picture above) making it a single 12k pot

 

This can be done with a soldering iron with no extra solder. just heat up the green wire pull it off and put it on with the red and heat it up to connect it. 

 

 

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

any 10k or 12k ohm pot can be used to make your peddle work

I am re-posting this from another thread on the same thing

From:

http://missionengineering.com/

 Wiring.
Most potentiometers have three connectors; Clockwise, Counter-clockwise, and Wiper. Amazingly, there are multiple different ways these can be wired, all achieving largely the same result, which means yet more variations for expression pedals. The most common expression pedal wiring is to connect the pot to a 1/4″ stereo (TRS) instrument jack as follows:

CW —— Sleeve
Wiper — Tip
CCW —– Ring

An alternative is with the tip and the ring reversed as follows:

CW —— Sleeve
Wiper — Ring
CCW —– Tip

Yet a third way is as follows:

CW —— Sleeve
Wiper — Tip
CCW —– Tip

 

In this last one, the wiper and CCW are bonded together and connected to the tip and the ring is unused. This requires the use of a mono (TS) cable such as a regular guitar cable, in place of the stereo (TRS) cable used in the other two. These three are the most common that we see in expression pedals, but we keep finding more. Sometimes a dual gang potentiometer is wired in parallel to create a single pot with half the resistance. For example you may see a dual 20K Ohm potentiometer bridged into a single 10K. In this case the pedal will function the same as if it were a native 10K Ohm single pot.

.....................................

 

OK so now we know we can do this:

 

This also alleviated the backwards operation problem and the 0 - 100 - 0 problem...

 

The third way is the Line 6 way. (after some google searches I found this out)

 

which means after the conversion you don't need to use TRS cables anymore you can use TS cables. Also now with either the 12k ohm pot in the one and the 10k ohm pot in the other I get full 0% to 100% on the Helix control.

here is what I did to make mine compatible so there would be no need for re configuring. the Potenteiometer on this 1 is 10k

Here is before

here is after... so just moving 1 wire (the green/ring) and put it together with the (red/Tip) and the (black/sleeve) stays the same.

also I jumped out the black on the side pot that is for changing the "throw" of it to disable it and not doing it made it have issues when you adjusted it it would not go back to full throw. (If that makes any scents to you)

My other one

here is after... so just moving 1 wire (the green/ring) and put it together with the (red/Tip) and the (black/sleeve) stays the same.

 

this model had a duel 24k pot and I soldered each connection 1,2 and 3 to 1,2 and 3 (you see it better in the picture above) making it a single 12k pot

 

This can be done with a soldering iron with no extra solder. just heat up the green wire pull it off and put it on with the red and heat it up to connect it. 

 

 

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

 

I am re-posting this from another thread on the same thing

it's kind of ridiculous....near the end I lean into it a little and you can hear it scrapping the side of the opening. I am just setting my foot on enough to use it in the first part. 

 

 

 

 

 

I fixed it with a drop of lube on the right side of the peddle axle bushing.

Thanks Jamin do you think the line 6 lt2 would be nicer at low volumes than the QSC K10's pr K8's?

 

QSE an Mackie as far as that goes are great companies and make great speakers and yes they sound great, but the tech that is in the Line 6 speakers is IMHO superior and the L6 line with the digital connection is awesome. also the versatility of the "T" version with the built in mixer you can plug in another guitar or mike and use it without an external mixer. 

 

you really need the FRFR to get the best sound that said if your on a budget and it's for personal use in a small rm any decent studio monitors will sound great I have some M-Audio BX8-a's and they sound great with Helix too.