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Posts posted by mtreehugger

  1. ...still hoping somebody has some knowledge/experience on this, as I'm still concerned I may have a defective guitar.  


    One idea occurs to me... Is it possible that the switching issue has to do with whether the patch on my HD500 forces the Variax model or not?  I have noticed that at least some of the time the switch won't go on/off (modeling/mags) until after I rotate it to a different model, and then at that point it becomes functional.  From what I can tell, this is on patches that force the model upon the guitar.  Can anyone out there say if this is normal, intended behavior? 


    (sorry I haven't had time to further test this idea more definitively, plus my time is running out very soon)



  2. My brand new Variax has had only intermittent success when I've used the switch to go from mags to modeling.  Oftentimes it sticks when I use it, and sometimes I can depress it several times yet still the thing won't switch modes.  This can happen while switching from/to either the modeling or the mags.  I seem to notice a higher success rate if I remember to hold the switch down for a couple of seconds before releasing it.  Other than the problem stated it seems properly installed, and it doesn't wobble or anything.


    Questions:  Is the switch intended to operate in the manner described so as to curtail inadvertent switching while playing?  If not, should I be worried?  (It is still in the return period, so I could ship 'er back for a replacement model.)  Is there a simple fix?


    THANKS in advance for your help!



  3. 22 hours ago, psarkissian said:

    Alt Tune is on momentary, long enough to find the position, then goes off once you found it.


    How hard it is to change a pick-guard depends on how much experience you have with this

    sort of thing. It can be a chore.



    Thanks, man!  I swapped the pickguard in my Strat and that was a chore!  I figure this might be a lot worse, but maybe not?  Is one of the major differences between this and a strat getting the knob tops to remain on the guitar after reassembly?


    One other thing...  Sometimes when I first fire up my dream rig, I find that my HD500 is locked up.  This never happened with conventional guitars or my Variax 600.  I find that plugging in the Variax last seems to avert the issue.  The variax standard is at firmware 2.23 and I believe the HD500 is at the most recent level, but my DT25 is at factory reset status, so its firmware is prior to the major update that opened access to all the various amp models for users w/o Line6 controllers (by way of using MIDI to select amps, reverb, etc.).  Is there any kind of known compatibility issue with my amp or, in particular, older POD?

  4. I finally found a great deal on a (not) scratch n dent V-Standard at SW, and after 2.2 days I'm starting to get blown away.


    Let me back up.  I entered the modeling realm with an HD500 when they were fresh (what, 2010?), thinking that I'd have more capability than the Spider Valve MkI that amazed me.  First thing I noticed on the POD was that all the stock presets sucked.  Playing at very low volume, I had to develop my own, which relied on a fair bit more gain than I'd normally go for in order to achieve any kind of crunch.  I moved from FRFR to DT amps, but still, always kinda had more gain than I wanted (except when I went totally clean with the lovely Twin model).  I picked up a Variax 600 and finally reached "dream rig" status, but really only liked the Strat models, Tele neck, and the Rick bridge.  The alt tunings seemed kinda crappy too.  Most of the other electric models were just too loud--much louder and with more gain than my real guitars with hot pups.  When I first tried my new V-Standard, it was looking like more of the same (except usable mags).


    So I wondered, how do I get away from my presets with too much gain and into presets that work for my Variax?  In an epiphany of sorts, I started trying out all those presets in my HD500 that sucked, and guess what?  NO MO SUCKY!  They're amazing, for the most part.  Also, to my surprise, they all have variax settings already. 


    So all I had to do was plug my dream rig in, using an ethernet cable and the digital L-6 Link, and now folks, I hardly have to tweak, I can just play my heart out!  Turns out those patches were very well crafted using Variaxes of some kind, and so far about 2/3 are keepers!  Has anyone else noticed this as well, or am I the first to stumble on this total treasure chest?


    The magnetic pickups are pretty sweet too!  But the other thing I'm really thrilling over is the neck on the Variax Standard.  I was afraid that something this flat, this thin, and with medium frets might not work for my aging knuckles, but I gotta tell you that even with 10's at concert pitch this thing is a joy for my hand!  It's the most comfortable neck I've felt since the Japanese Variax 700 I've been wishing I'd have bought--and that's saying a lot.


    I do have questions:


    Is the light on the alt tuning knob supposed to be only momentary (unless you go to the "model" position)?  I wish the thing would stay lit in mag mode so I could dial up the tuning I want without activating all those other tunings in between.


    Does anybody know how hard it would be to change pick guards?  I'm thinking white would look very sweet with my sunburst brown...





  5. I have posted on this subject before, but now it's to the point where it's intolerable.  I normally use the L6 link to my HD500.  I used to fire up the pod first, then the amp.  After a while it started to hang up during it's startup routine, and when it did that I'd get no sound.  I'd look at the lights, and sometimes they were all lit, sometimes none were lit, or sometimes I'd see the wrong combination of lights.  And it does this to this day, only more often.

    After some experimentation and reading something Line 6 wrote, I changed my routine to starting both devices separately, then connecting the L6 link.  If I got sound, I could then plug in the L6 link too and everything was rosy.  For a while this worked.  When the problem resurfaced, I resolved to employ a shut down routine where I'd go to standby, then unplug the L6 link, then wait, then power off, then unplug from the wall.  (powering up still required keeping the L6 link unconnected at first)  This worked flawlessly for a while, but now it too fails quite often, and any time I don't get the sequence EXACTLY right it seems to always fail.  


    Once the thing fails to initialize correctly, I have no choice but to restart it, and it usually fails 5-15 times after that before eventually starting.  I've done a factory reset so many times I could puke.  I've flipped the power and standby switches with it unplugged ad nauseum.  I have exceptionally clean and uniform power PLUS a power conditioner, so it's not that. 


    When working correctly, I believe the lights and relays go like this when the power switch is thrown:  1) all on; 2) all off; 3) coinciding with the last amp setting (prior to connecting the L6 link).  when having the issue, it usually makes it to step 1 or step 2 and hangs there--and I get no sound.  A couple times it's even gone to step 3 and looked right but still no sound--but I think in those instances I was doing the multiple restarts in fairly rapid succession.


    I'm at wits' end, but I figure that were I to ship it to Line 6 they probably wouldn't witness the problem (remember, it's intermittent).


    Below is a similar thread I did earlier in the problem's evolution.


    Anybody out there encounter anything like this?


    Thanks for reading!!!





  6. Update:


    There was one time where I forgot my new procedure and turned on the amp first.  However, after letting it boot and then starting my HD500 (connected via L6 LINK), it acted the same as always.




    I had this happen over a year ago as well, and I know I'm not the only one who has experienced this.  

  7. Het,mrtreehugger.I can't tell from 


    Hey,mrtreehugger.I can't tell if you think i'm interfering &/or being a pain in the a**e,or if you think i'm helping :)

    If you think i'm not helping just say the word & i'll stop posting in the thread,but 'till then :D

    I believe given the signals being carried,that using an XLR cable is incorrect & is just a way of sort of getting it going,but that an AES 110 Ohm cable is the correct cable,an XLR will corrupt a Digital,at best.

    I too wish Line 6 would chip in on this.

    Just be assured my only intention of being active on the Forum is to help(if i can).



    Old-Rocker, I'm sorry!  You are being helpful, definitely not a pain!  I was trying to give you credit for being the first with the idea that the POD should be turned on first (formerly, I always turned my amp on first), but in hindsight I can see how my writing wasn't very clear.    :wacko:

  8. mtreehugger.just for information & my own curiosity i have downloaded & read(quite a few times)the Pod HD/DT25 L6 Link document,i have to say i find the instructions "vague",but i'm pretty sure it says.

    Set up The Pod (go through the various screens) for L6 Link,then wirh XLR/AES cable already connected switch on the DT25 & it should see the Pod & set itself up ready for use.

    I think what you're describing is pretty much the same procedure,but maybe the Pod should be fully ready before the DT 25,is switched on?

    As i say i had to read it several times i find it a bit vague.

    I really don't understand why they even mention an XLR cable,it should definitely be an AES cable,because(once again if i'm reading it correctly)the link cable also carries the Guitar signal,which is converted by the Pod to Digital,so the cable is carrying a Digital signal(please correct me if i'm wrong on this)because if this is the case the cable has to be AES to maintain the correct ohms for digital transmission.

    If i'm correct with the above i don't get Line 6 mentioning an XLR cable at all & this should be the basis for a whole new thread(it probably has been).

    Sorry for going on again,too much time on my hands,in my old age. :D


    Old-Rocker, you've kinda been saying the same thing all along.  Originally you were talking about transient voltage spikes or whatever, and here you're paraphrasing the L6 documentation, I believe.  There's definitely something to it, because 4 times in a row I've had HD500 on first and last, and I haven't had to pull the plug.  The first time was scary slow (see above), but the next 3 times have been "normal" from what I can tell.  I'm still wondering about that factory reset, as I think my amp got "confused," it's just that I hate to re-learn stuff I've forgotten and I'm 90% sure a factory reset will wipe my firmware update (and the other 10% says I should re-flash it anyway just on general principle, but I digress).


    As for the XLR cable, that is suitable if you have a shorter one, but the longer it is the more unreliable it becomes.  A few years ago the general consensus was that an XLR cable under 10 feet in length would work fine in just about any environment.  I use an AES cable, it didn't cost much.

  9. Tried again last night with the POD on first.  When I flipped power to the amp, all switchable lights flickered on/off.  And they stayed off for what seemed like forever.  Then they all came on, and this lasted about as long (20 seconds I'd say).  Then, with a bit of a flicker, I had only 1 light per switch (which is correct).  I flipped standby and it worked normally.


    While I find this to be scary slow, it could be that perhaps the total time to get operational might be the same.  Before, I'd start my amp first, wait for it to initialize everything and find its operational state, then I'd turn on my POD and wait some more while the POD booted and then communicated with my amp.  I've always believed that even if none of those switchable parameters were actually going to change due to my HD500, it would still take the same amount of time as if they were changing due to handshaking protocols or whatever.


    Still thinking about doing a factory reset, though.  I think I'll try it one more time as is, and if I still seems unstable, I'll restore the factory settings and see if that helps.

  10. I'm pretty sure I've done this before and all it did was reset the programmed amps back to the way it was from the factory. So all the controls would work they way they did from the store. I don't think it reinstalls the original firmware. Don't take my word on that though as it's been a while. This is going to make me drag that amp out and hook up via midi & DT Edit again, lol.


    I thought you were using DT Edit.  You just set up your 2 channels and put it away, then?  I still haven't played with it.  I think I downloaded it but for some reason never completed the mission.  I like my POD, I guess that's why.

  11. Hey man, I was referring to reset where you hold the 2 switches together while powering up. You know the simple one. Not the complicated one. :)


    See my attachment. I really don't know if it will help.


    Thanks for the handy clip!  Yes, this is the factory reset.  I could be wrong, but I believe doing this will wipe away the firmware update, leaving me to later re-install it via MIDI and Monkey.

  12. That's sounds strange. Have you tried to reset the DT and then try what the manual describes? I got to try mine out again soon. Lately I always just use the amp by itself.


    Hey Brazzy!


    A factory reset?  I hate that on accounta I hate ta hafta read up on how to hook up MIDI all over again (to subsequently reinstall the latest firmware update).  However, your suggestion is most excellent!!!  Thanks!!!

  13. Well, this is an ongoing thing now.  FYI, with power to the HD500 off, the DT should not see it, and the L6 LINK should be invisible as well, correct?  So I first threw the power switch (still in standby) and watched carefully as all switchable lights flickered on then off within a fraction of a second.  And they stayed off.  I threw the power switch back off, unplugged my amp, plugged it back in, tried it again, and this time all switchable lights came on and stayed on.  


    ("all switchable lights" includes all 4 voice lights, both chnl A & B lights, both triode and pentode lights, and both the class A and class AB lights--i.e. every single light that can be in either on or off state when power is applied.)


    I tried it a 3rd time and it operated normally (I think):  All lights came on, then a few seconds later only 1 light per switch was illuminated.  I turned on my HD500 and played as normal.


    Following suggestion here, I am going to have my HD500 on when I turn on the DT and when I turn it off and see if this makes a difference.  I will not change any settings on the POD unless the amp is also on.

  14. I don't know if this applies to L6 link,but normally when switching on Equipment,it's generally Pre-Amp(HD500)first,then Power Amp (DT25)this avoids the DT25 seeing a mains spike.

    Switch off is opposite Power then Pre,as i said i don't know if this is the case with L6 link,but this is the procedure i would follow.

    If I do as you suggest, I'd be avoiding a "mains spike," but I'd be forcing the DT to look at the L6 LINK sooner rather than later.  Not sure if that's a good or bad thing.


    Please note that I modified my original post because the problem appears to be ongoing at this point.



  15. I normally don't do this, but yesterday I turned on my HD500 before my DT25H had fully gone through all of its startup routine.  (I run the two connected via L6 LINK.)  When I tried to play, I couldn't get and sound out of it.  I noticed that my amp was locked with all four voicing lights lit.  In standby I disconnected the L6 LINK and tried slowly flipping all manner of switches.  At one point I had none of the voicing lights lit, and at another point I saw the amp retardedly responding to my command to change voices.  I slowly turned it off and on a couple times, tried LPM, but nothing would produce any sound other than the sound that normally passes to the speakers when I flip a voice or bias switch.


    In desperation, I unplugged my DT25H from the wall and played another amp.  This morning I tried it in LPM and it worked!  The volume seemed way too low for the settings.  But then after about 60 seconds of playing the volume abruptly went back up to where I'd have expected it.  I put it in standby, connected my L6 LINK, turned off LPM, and tried it--and it worked normally!


    So I'm happy it's working, and from now on I'll be VERY careful to not boot both devices at the same time.  However, I'm worried that this problem may still somehow return despite my best efforts.


    Has anyone else experienced this, and is there any knowledge base or consensus about what the heck is going wrong?




    **** EDIT / ADDITION **** 10/14/16 ****


    Oh no, it happened again.  This time I was careful to follow my routine, which has been to turn on the DT25 first and wait until it has time to fully load and change the settings to whatever it was last set for.  Then I turned on my HD500 (connected via L6 LINK).  Then I got no sound.  The amp's panel showed no voice selected (lit) and no bias selected.  I shut it down, pulled the plug, went through the same paces and it worked.


    **** EDIT / ADDITION **** 10/15/16 ****


    Well, this is an ongoing thing now.  FYI, with power to the HD500 off, the DT should not see it, and the L6 LINK should be invisible as well, correct?  So I first threw the power switch (still in standby) and watched carefully as all switchable lights flickered on then off within a fraction of a second.  And they stayed off.  I threw the power switch back off, unplugged my amp, plugged it back in, tried it again, and this time all switchable lights came on and stayed on.  


    ("all switchable lights" includes all 4 voice lights, both chnl A & B lights, both triode and pentode lights, and both the class A and class AB lights--i.e. every single light that can be in either on or off state when power is applied.)


    I tried it a 3rd time and it operated normally (I think):  All lights came on, then a few seconds later only 1 light per switch was illuminated.  I turned on my HD500 and played as normal.


    Following suggestion here, I am going to have my HD500 on when I turn on the DT and when I turn it off and see if this makes a difference.  I will not change any settings on the POD unless the amp is also on.

    **** EDIT / ADDITION **** 10/14/16 ****

  16. I've seen a good deal on a second hand DT50 probably a 2014 model.

    I've read a lot of reviews from 2011ish that diss the DT50 quite a lot.  Lots of poor sound issues, hums, volume loss and so on.  Some people have also found the integration with the HD500 poor.

    I was wondering if these were teething troubles and the recent amps and firmware are all good.  I see the DT range has been whittled down, and the Firehawk 1500 looks interesting.

    Any comments?



    I have both DT50 and DT25.  I play the DT25, and am saving my DT50-112 for a future where I need more volume. The 2 amps are amazingly similar sonically.  I recommend the HD500 (or HD300/400) to unleash the potential in these amps.  Without it, some are using MIDI to configure the 2 channels (with the latest firmware), but with it you don't just have 2 amazingly configurable channels, you have hundreds.  Poor integration?  No, it's excellent integration.  I'm guessing that the gripes are about the volume level disparities between the different amp models, which in my opinion is a very poor design choice by Line 6 common to both the HDs and the DTs.


    The main flaw in the DT50, which the DT25 doesn't have, is a very loud noise floor.  It puts out a lot of hiss, particularly in voice III.  This was driving me crazy in my basement, but I never even noticed it when playing in a band, even between songs.  Right now folks are giving it away, but I'm predicting the DT50 will be highly sought-after in a few years because it's got more power. 


    I'm fairly certain that the last DT50 to come off the assembly line wasn't any different than the first, except firmware and fuses (which are easily upgraded).  My advice:  If you have an HD pedal, you will love the DT.  If you aren't afraid to play with MIDI, you still might love the DT.  If you play alone in a small room, don't get the DT50, get the DT25.

  17. Hi friends!


    I've got an HD500 running into one DT25 combo amp.


    I welcome any advice for improvements, whether they be the perfect adjustments to the BF-Double to fix the farty overdrive, advice for dual amps with one DT-25, the perfect overdrive pedal (with settings), an alternative to the BFx2 model, or even ditching the HD500 amp models with the perfect DT-25 settings, etc...




    I'm using the same rig you are, and am also finding myself using the twin model more and more, but can't get good over-driven lead tones out of it.  Have you tried the solo 6?  I believe the hottest version of the 3 solo models is "crunch," and it rocks!  I love this amp, and kick it in for leads quite often--it has a ballsy clarity to it. Because it uses voice I, it has many of the characteristics of the Fender models, so it might blend well with the BF twin in dual amp mode (also voice I). 


    Geez--now that I think about it, that actually sounds really sweet!!!  I may have to try this dual amp mode thing myself!  (maybe put the stomp boxes in front of the solo to put it on top for the <ahem> solos...)

  18. I will happily sell you my DT50 1x12 so I can buy a VOX AC15 ... just drop me a note


    The AC15 seems like such a one-trick pony to me!  I'm predicting these DT's (especially the DT50 since it's no longer made) will be sought after and will command very high resale values in a few years.  We're the lucky ones to have them now.  I'm playing & loving my DT25 today whilst saving my DT50 for future use (and abuse, hopefully, coupled with some zep-ish debauchery if I'm really lucky  : - )

  19. I have some experimenting to do. I think a lot has to do with the master volume. I'm playing in a small room so the master is down on the amp, but cranked on the POD. I may need to re-think this a bit. Live on stage with the amp turned up I could see things being different. Thanks for the ideas.


    In general, most report that DT amps seem to sound better when the HD master is set to about half (12:00), but direct from HD sounds better with master maxed.  Unfortunately, you can't be in 2 different master settings for your POD at the same time, so your solution of a set list for each seems mandatory to me.  


    On the bright side, I think I'll try using full amps (I have the same rig) since you guys are reporting success.  Deep edit parameters are on my mind.  Might open a whole new DT world for me.

  20. Also,... When was the last time you had the tubes changed out?


    They should be changed out every 12-18 months if you're a gigging

    musician, every 20-24 months if you're a weekend rock warrior.


    Use the specified stock tubes, no substitutes.


    I think you're referring to the power tubes, which must be electro-harmonix.  any 12ax7 or equivalent will work in the pre-amp.

  21. Local tech just sent me home with the amp. Was beyond his expertise to troubleshoot or fix.


    I don't think your amp is broken.  Please allow me to share my experience:


    I did not notice the noise when I bought my previously-owned DT50-112 because it was on the floor behind a desk in a large room (the seller met me at his work, which was an auto repair facility) and still had remaining warranty so I only wanted to make sure there were no obvious problems.  The amp was so unused that the next day it smelled plus made all that noise and I freaked out!  I brought it in for service, and I posted a hundred times in various threads here on the forum, searching for and sharing answers.  Ultimately I bought a DT25 head, which amazes me daily in my basement.  I'm hanging on to the DT50 for when I need more power, but may sell it some day if I find that I don't.  Maybe.  I'm predicting these DT's (especially the DT50 since it's no longer made) will be sought after and will command very high resale values in a few years.  We're the lucky ones to have them now.


    Here's the thing:  Those DT50's are noisey beasts if you practice by yourself in a small room at low power.  The noise floor is fixed depending on which voice you select, which is unfortunate and probably why they don't make them any more (which is VERY unfortunate).  Turning up the volume makes absolutely no difference until you get to screaming loud, in which case the noise has long since become inaudible.  When I did take the DT50 and play with a band, I never even noticed the noise.  Not once, even between songs.  I forgot all about it, actually.  So what seems huge and horrible in my basement doesn't even exist under the conditions the amp was designed for. 


    If your goal is to play in a group, my advice is to ignore the noise when you practice because you won't hear it in a band.  There was a guy who said he played in a church band and had to switch to voice 1 or standby between songs, but I think that's rare.


    Here's what helps:  


    1) voice 1.  Have you tried the soldano amps?  (they call it "solo" something or other)  there's clean, crunch, and overdrive models available, and you can get very nice hi gain tones in voice 1!!!!!  If you don't have a POD HD, get one, or you can use MIDI to download the update for your amp, then download DT edit to set one of the voices (doesn't matter 1-4 or which channel) to one of these louder solos.  Any amp using voice 1 will have minimum noise, but the solos seem to my ears to be the best high gain tones.


    2) use 2 speakers.  You've already got this covered.  If you think your DT-212 is noisey, the 112 is actually a bit worse.


    3) put a Mesa MBSPAX7 in the inverter slot.  It's a very clean tube, and for me it took just enough of the edge off that with 2 speakers I could forget about the noise (except in voice 3, which is the worst).


    4) be sure to try low power mode if you haven't already.  Over time I found that I don't like it much, except in the case of the solo amps, which react very nicely with it in the DT50.  If you do use MIDI and DT Edit, LPM can be turned off or on via MIDI commands and, from what I hear, probably saved to a patch in the POD HD as well!  (if so, each patch would require a LPM setting as it won't automatically change states for you)


    5) practice in a bigger room (if that's an option).


    I hope this helps!




    I wrote the above in response to your personal e-mail request, which did not state that you'd already played in a band and were concerned with recording.  When I later saw your post, I copied that response here.  Sorry for the TMI!  Have you tried the low-impedance direct out jack for recording?  (I have not, I just use my HD-500 direct to record.)  Otherwise voice 1 and the SPAX7 may be helpful.

    • Upvote 2
  22. just picked up a floor model how can I tell if it has been updated already to the new software. I don't want to buy a usb-midi unless I really need one.


    I believe they all shipped with V 1, but don't know for a fact.  It's not easy to tell w/o midi.  But w/o MIDI the update is somewhat useless anyway.  It was reported to make switching between voicings and classes smoother, but I never really noticed any difference.  One thing that MIDI gives you that a POD will not is the ability to change the topology (voices 1-4) without changing the amp.  I'm probably experimenting with this soon.

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