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Perfect

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Posts posted by Perfect


  1. Check out pages 5.3 and 5.4 of the Advanced Guide for instructions on how to use the Auto Scan feature: https://line6.com/data/6/0a064339312b551b201bd3ec1/application/pdf/Relay%20G70%20&%20G75%20Advanced%20Guide%20(RevA)%20-%20English%20(%20Rev%20A%20).pdf

     

    I have both the G70 and G75 and have used them in a lot of different venues, and have never had any issues with dropouts.

     

    Hi Phil.

     

    Yes that is the procedure I have now followed numerous times. However, the G75 still has significantly less range before dropping our than my G30, which just seems wrong.


  2. I’ve been gigging with a Line 6 G30 for years and it has been reliable (except for PSU cables wearing) although on the odd occasion I have wished for something with more power/range when playing a venue where I can run around outside. Through these forums I was made aware of a good deal on the Line 6 Relay G75, described in glowing terms by Line 6 "Relay G70 and G75 deliver the best reliability and sound quality of any wireless system. A high-resolution pure digital radio captures your signal with four calibrated internal antennas, then immediately digitizes the RF signal. Super-high-resolution digital processing with triple RF filtering, fully optimized in-band rejection, and improved near-far response ensures clear channel performance."

     

    The G75 arrived today and the unboxing was favourable with metal construction, more options and a much bigger receiver than the plastic G30. Plugged in the G75 and the sound quality seems good with a nice clear signal into my Helix. I then started recording and took a wander with my guitar to test the reception, which unfortunately showed significant dropouts on playback. I then plugged in my G30 and walked the exact same route – no drop outs at all. Following this I have played with channel scanning (trying channels with both the least and the most signal bars in case I was getting it wrong) updated the firmware and taken numerous walks with both wireless systems. The result is still the same that the G75 has less range than the G30 and drops out where the G30 doesn’t. This is very disappointing and appears to be a downgrade in a key performance area for a wireless system. I thought the newer/higher end systems were supposed to have a 300 foot range compared to the 100 foot "line of sight" range of the G30…

     

    So right now I’m pondering whether to try and return the G75 as I want more range at gigs, not less. Any thoughts or suggestions please? Is there something that I’m missing/doing wrong?


  3. When I first tried the Helix in a shop I was also underwhelmed with the sound, although impressed by the build quality and interface. However I took a punt and bought one. Got home, connected my guitar and a good set of monitor headphones and before long I was converted. Also now using it for gigs through a power amp and my guitar cabs.


  4. If you aren't worried about the cost then go for it. I think you will find that the Helix sounds significantly better and you will end up using it all the time. Also, the learning curve is negligible (certainly easier than the HD500) and you will probably be up and running before you know it.


  5. I had a flawless gig last night... Well... After I replaced the bad/faulty patch cable from my wireless to my Helix. LoL!

    Welcome to one of the great guitar truths: If you have a problem with your wireless system, at least 90% of the time it will be down to one of the wires :-)


  6. Regarding possible issues with the power supply it's the first time I've used the Helix at this particular venue, although I have played there quite a few times previously using other gear with no issues.

     

    However, I can believe that some places are worse than others when it comes to the quality of the mains power as back when I used to gig a midi rack system with a Marshall 9200 power amp there was one venue (now closed) where on several occasions it blew fuses, which never happened at all anywhere else.


  7. Mid way through a song in the second set tonight my guitar suddenly cut out. I wasn't even touching the Helix at the time. I tried changing patches (nothing doing) and quickly checked the cables (all still connected) and everything looked fine and the power amp was still on. Turned the Helix off and back on, it rebooted and then sound magically returned and it worked for the rest of the gig. I really hope this sort of wobble doesn't happen again!


  8. First time out with the Helix I took my old gear as well, however all went well so now I don't do that. Of course it's a good idea to have some backup for emergencies so I do take a spare power amp and an FX pedal that should let me scrape through a gig if something blows up.


  9. I'm suggesting the string vibration thing as well - you probably have a "headstock harp" as I once heard a guitar tech call it. If so you just need to damp the strings. I own a Gibson SG that does this and found that a rubber band at the base of the headstock just above the nut is an effective solution.

    • Upvote 1

  10. There is really no reason to need to use more than one preset for one song.

     

    Shhh you. Someone should just lock this thread, I think it's been pretty well argued out by now.

    That reads like someone is trolling. It has been clearly established that the patch switching delay is a real issue for some Helix users. Posting to tell them that it isn't a problem (for YOU) and then saying that the thread should be closed does not look good.

    • Upvote 2

  11. For live use with my wireless I would prefer the rack unit to enable shorter cables and getting the most expensive bit of kit off the floor. However I've got the floor unit because it was the only option available at the time - plus I didn't really want to cough up the extra for the controller.


  12. A great way to figure out what the bad frequencies are is to use the Global EQ. Leave the low cut & high cut alone for now. Use the high EQ setting to find the offensive frequencies by turning up the High Gain level and using the High Freq to sweep the upper range. When you find the offensive frequency then use the High Q setting to see how wide you want to cut that freq and then turn the High Gain down until the offending freq disappears. You can do the same for the low end but I think just using the Low Cut will get rid of any boominess.

    That sounds like a plan - I was hoping that someone might have already done the work though! :-)


  13. I have found (with various modelers, not just this one) that running without cab and mic sims, while the intuitive thing to do with a "real" amp and cabinet rig, doesn't necessarily yield good results...often resulting in exactly the "harshness" you describe. Never worked for me. There's nothing that says you can't run cab/mic sims into an actual cabinet, however. I did just that for years with the POD before going to an FRFR rig, and I'm not alone. You might be surprised at the sounds you can get that way.

    I'm not saying a cab sim can't work through a cab and I think I did end up doing this years ago for some tones on older Line 6 gear. However this was when there wasn't the option to slip in an EQ block after the amp. Plus the cab model was probably more simple than the current generation and so maybe did less to mess up the live sound. The IRs I tried on the Helix today did not sound good through my guitar cabs. If the Helix amp model is as authentic as it should be, then it really should sound right being amplified directly into a "real" cab.

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