psarkissian

Make sure you have two green LED's on the JTV interface during

the entire Flash update (or re-Flash) procedure. If you get a Red

blinking LED, then re-initialize by clicking on "Change Device" on

Monkey, and re-Flash it again. 

The device under the knob is the same, so the Models will come

up in the same order, in the same way.

However, the stop points on either end are such, that the Model labels

on the knob won't line-up perfectly with the select LED indicator (just tried

it on one of my test fixtures). So, there may be some confusion which Model

is engaged until you play it (or it come up on the display of your multi effects

floor unit, if you have one).

Aside from those caveats, should work fine.

Older part like that is not available anymore.

Same with other parts for the 500.

Palico's idea is an option.

WXT has the cup on the bottom the WGC doesn't. Use the WXT if you have the

amp with the the bear trap or clamp type retainers.

WXT are good for amps with the spring retainers, since the base cup helps counter

any pressure from the springs. With taller tubes, the spring pressure was enough to

crack a tube during transport.

5881 vs 6L6WGC (or WXT),....

1) Bias won't be the same between them because,...

2) the characteristic curves are slightly different, and so,...

3) you can't get away with the same sort of swapping we used to get away with

back in the 1960's and 1970's. This is a different beast.

Be aware, it may work now,...  but later,... that's another thing.

And how hard you run it,... that factors into it as well.

12AX7B is fine, anything else is fancy, and unnecessary overkill, but it will work,

it's th s small signal pre-amp stage.

I tested it on a JTV-59 with Flash v2.00 and v2.21, it’s less apparent when using Flash v2.21 (the latest and current).

It sounds like the effect is a quirk of filtering processes,…

-The pick-ups are inductors with a magnet. Passive Filters- inductor, capacitor and resistor are passive components, and create a “first-order† passive resonant filter circuit.

-In Model mode, the filter is built around a function block, and if there is an amp (real or virtual) involved, then it creates

an active filter circuit. Since it is an active filter, it is automatically a “second order†filter.

-Passive filters are smooth across the frequency response band. Neve uses this in their mixing consoles, it’s a smooth response, and then they send that output to an amplifier, allowing gain changes and still maintaining that smooth response.

-Active filters have emphasis and de-emphasis just before the roll-off frequency point. Synthesizers use this by exaggerating the emphasis and de-emphasis to create undulating filter sweeps, by cascading “second order†filters into one another to create extreme filter sweeps.

The Chebyshev response curve is the one that is the smoother of the active filters, is stable and easier to control, and keeps ripple and emphasis to a minimum,… which is why some of us like using them in audio circuits.

It’s how some Wah-Wah's works,… volume/tone pot is tied into an active circuit making it an active filter, changing the cut-off point or the Q-factor (gain at the resonance point). The more orders of active filter, the more extreme the effect you can get out of it.

Sounds like what capdoogie is experiencing is an ultralight version of active filtering in Model mode vs passive pick-ups. Like I said earlier, less apparent with Flash v2.21 program.

Or,....

Log a ticket, get an RMA, and send it here to Line 6. The tech here who

does the old Variax guitars has a couple jack assemblies,... he can install

one (and check other stuff too while he's in it). I just asked him about it.

Modifying a JTV assembly to fit can be done, but it's also a can of worms

if you're not an experienced tech or circuit person.

Open a ticket, get an RMA and take it to your nearest authorized

Line 6 service person. When you do take it in, take the guitar, cables

and accessories and the HD500, so they can go through it all an

"fine-tooth-comb-it" along the entire signal chain. They will have

access to service data and info.

BTW,... I'm acquainted with silverhead, he knows his stuff.

That too,... yeah.

Rewolf48,... yes. 

Using a regular CAT5 cable, it can jiggle and wiggle, 

and that can (and often does) bend and damage the 

pins in the VDI jack (in older Variax and JTV). And that 

can (and often does) damage or short out circuitry. 

We see this all the time. We've been telling everyone

about this since the days of the early Variax guitars, to 

use the correct cable for the correct use. My lab mate 

has dealt with early Variax from the start, and I've

serviced hundreds (literally, so I've lost count) of JTV's

from its beginnings. We've seen too many bent pins 

in VDI jacks and too many shorted out boards,... 

please, use the correct cable for the correct use.  

Been doing this a long time (and I count in decades,

not years). I have an old 300 Electric and four JTV's, 

only VDI's on them and never had a problem. 

I don't care what brand of VDI you use, just use a VDI cable. 

It will save you a lot of grief later. And it will keep your 

guitars from ending up on my bench. 

That jack in the link is a JTV-69,... it won't fit physically and the electronic
connections are not the same. Parts for JTV's are NOT interchangeable with
the older Variax guitars (300/500/600/700).

Do not use regular CAT5 cable,... use the VDI cable with the casing. Regular
CAT5 will just wiggle around inside the jack, pins get bent and boards get
shorted out. We wee this all too often here,... please, don't become a statistic.

We've been warning people about that for years. And I think there may be
something about that in the Pilot's Handbook. We see this on our tech benches
all too often,.... use the proper VDI cable.

Take the 500 Electric to an authorized Line 6 service center, or Line 6 itself.
Don't try to open this can yourself,...  leave it to the pros.

The Equalizer (EQ). 

When you see a message like that, it's usually a

time-out error of some sort. Re-Flash it.

That would do it too.

Bravo.

Re-Flash it, do it again. It may take a couple of tries until you 

get a "update successful" message. Make sure you have green

lights on the interface during the entire update process.

If it asks to keep existing patches, click on "No". The last thing you

want to do at this point is to save anything from a failed update.

Follow the prompts.

Whichever you feel more comfortable doing.

Could be the jack itself, a solder point, or something

upstream in the circuit.

Pull the knobs off, make sure the nuts holding the controls in are

snug (not overly tight). This maintains the integrity of the chassis

ground, and keeps intermittent contacts from occurring.  

Since it cuts off the speakers, then that part of the circuit works.

And the plug is a TRS, so now that points to an issue with the jack 

on the amp. Intermittent connection inside the jack itself.

It will need to serviced by an authorized technician in your area, 

or returned to the place of purchase for other options.

Does it cut off the speakers when you plug in the headphones?

I like maple too.
Black 69S with maple-on-maple neck, played a couple earlier today,..... sweet!

Not frequencies, but other devices sharing those frequencies.

It's an unregulated free for all frequency band,... so it gets bit crowded at times.

I have lots of experience with JTV's.

A couple dabs of white glue. Take a photo and post it here,

when you're done if you could.

Check for Line 6 authorized service in your area (Euro/Scandinavia region)

for the one closest to you. If it's still under warranty, use it. The way it's wired

on the inside, is not the same as a guitar with passive electronics.

Someone mentioned ganged pot,.... not quite the way you think it is. Line 6

authorized service will have access to the service info.

I'm the guy at Line 6 headquarters, who services JTV's. I see too many times

when a JTV comes across my bench because someone got in over their heads,...

and voided the warranty in the process. Going through proper channels is less

trouble. The people at the "authorized" service centers will have experience

with these,... and some else might not. JTV's are unforgiving for someone who

has little or no experience servicing JTV's. Going outside the system is risky

that way.

And I'm in constant contact for assistance with my Euro counterparts, should

they need any.

What Charlie_Watt said,.... most likely an intermittent connection.

Log into your account and make sure the guitar is registered, then

go into the Ticket system in your account and log a ticket. Then

Customer Support will be brought into it.

Connect the JTV to Line 6 Monkey with the USB interface widget

and check the Flash version of the JTV.

If you have Flash version of v1.90 or earlier, then Workbench HD

won't be compatible. Flash versions of v1.90 or earlier work with an

earlier version of Variax Workbench.

Update the Flash to the current v2.21 program, then try Workbench HD again.

When it comes to a Bigsby Bridge mod to JTV-59,... what Stevekc says.