psarkissian

Are you using the VDI connection or 1/4" guitar plug and battery?

If you're using 1/4" guitar in (with battery), is it a TS (1 insulator ring) or TRS (2 insulators rings)?

Sounds like you got it into some sort of "save mode" or held down one of the

knobs too long and it went into some sort of mode. If need be, and you want to

get into a factory default set of settings, the re-Flash the unit using Monkey.

Otherwise, your probably fine.

I've serviced hundreds of these and the only time I see LED's light up in other

than the usual colors, is when it's in some programming or save mode. Which is

something I never need to use, since I use it as is and don't do much custom stuff.

Sounds like you're okay now. Contact Line 6 support if that should change.

With neck relief, it takes about two days for the wood to settle into its position.

It's not like action or intonation, where the results are immediate.

Buzzing above the 12th fret, action low, a sign of relief is over-bowing a smidge,

that goes to how the set-up is.

Sounds like a set-up needs to be done from scratch first, then go from there.

There are a number of things that can contribute to warbling, RealZap mentioned

pick-up height. Yes, I see this often enough.

The sound sample is more indicative of string buzz (not warbling) from the string nut slots,

if there are burrs or wearing in the slots. Fret buzz can also contribute. Both kinds of buzz

can become part of the signal and end up being processed like the rest of it, hence this

distorted dual-tone effect from being Alt Tuned with the main signal.

Intonation can be off enough to where a dual-tone appears.

On a couple of occasions, an 89F turn out to have the piezo lines in the wrong sequence. 

An easy fix at the service center.

Typically, it's a matter of which string and how it manifests. It won't always be the same

every time, in every situation. It requires a service tech experienced with this product to

tease that out.

Is on all the strings or just a couple?

Every fret,... or just certain strings on certain frets?

Trying to do it yourself can leave you chasing your tail or chasing ghosts in the machine.

It's not our grandfather's arch-top Gibson anymore, with passive electronics. Need a service

tech (Line 6 authorized service) experienced with troubleshooting this product for that one.

"But the neck, if it were not for the hole spacing, would be a drop-in replacement.

Any half-way sentient luthier...if they succeed in making a living wrenching on guitars,

should be able to handle it without too much drama"---

Most definitely. :)

"Unless of course you meant slapping a wider nut on the stock JTV neck...

but who in their right mind would do that?"--- Precisely, you hit the nail on the head. :)

But then, I've come to expect that from you.

Unfortunately, there are modified JTV's that come across my bench all too often with

mods that should have never been done, including mod' or 3rd party nuts, or backwards nuts.

As a result, there are maybe four people besides myself (and Tyler's people), in all

of North America, that I trust, to do mods on a JTV,.... and not mess it up.

And the user names here I recognize as a savvy bunch. :)

Sounds like Charlie got one with the later fret edge spec.

Oddly enough, a wider nut would bring the strings out closer to

the edge and make the problem worse.

cruisinon2 have ties to Warmoth? ;)

Single row of contacts, so don't go trying to replace it with a CRL from Stew-Mac,

that one won't work as a replacement (I get asked that one all the time).

And yes, the Model circuit routine also goes through there to give you your five

versions of Model.

Sounds like time to take it to the local Line 6 authorized tech in your area.

There is a +/- tolerance, of which, if my calculations are correct (some

metric to linear converting),... the 0.01 inch is well within the tolerance

range by almost a whole decimal place.

Comparing a Variax 600 to a JTV is an apple to orange comparison,

and so isn't really all that valid beyond general comparisons between

old vs new product.  Apples vs oranges,...

The problem with the high-E slip had to do with the fret edge dressing,

which was addressed wit a newer fret edge spec.

All of which was covered in forum postings two years ago, when the current

fret spec was rolled in.

The 69 in that photo looks like the old fret spec,... from 2011?

In this case with the early 69's, it was a fret edge bevel thing.

The 69S models came in after the revised fret spec was implemented,

so the 69S has the newer and current fret dress specs.

I have no problems with the old spec neck that I have on mine. I do

strings pulls and the "chicken scratch blues" thing every now and then.

It's been okay, string slip is rare with me.

Ditto, davidb7170,... just don't tap on the magnet too hard.

Being the JTV tech here at Line 6, I see this sort of thing every now and then, fortunately not too often.

Just needs a going through by a tech, to check the circuits and contacts, and make sure it's all good in the end.

The maple-on-maple necks are a smidgeon different contour than

rosewood-on-maple,... or at least it feels that way.

Some prefer the maple-on-maple, Some prefer the rosewood-on-maple.

They each feel a bit different.

All the 69S guitars should have the current fret edge spec, so high-e slip

should be kept to a minimum. It's odd that there would be high-e slip on

a 69S with that fret edge spec that it has. Unless there's something else

going on there.

I own a JTV-69 with the old fret spec, the only time I get high-e slip off is when

my technique is sloppy at that moment, otherwise it's no problem for me.

This pattern suggests a short of some sort. Take it

to your local authorized Line 6 service center.

2 should be mid+bridge, 4 should be mid+neck, somehow

there is a short that's not allowing that to occur.

spmartin,

Any affect on changing the neck and scale would be in the area of

tuning and intonation. If distance from nut to bridge changes, there

could be problems in that aspect of it.

I don't know what the affect on warranty support that would have.

Depends on how much affect it has on interfering with the normal

function of the guitar. Check with Line 6 support on that.

Hi Stevekc,

Sort of correct, it wasn't CNC with the neck width.

It was the fret edge spec in earlier 69's. Was never

a problem with the "S" versions.

What was the serial number of the guitar in question?

If it's an "S",.... maple-on-maple, or rosewood-on-maple?

BTW, enjoyed servicing that 59 with the Bigsby bridge.

rkhiii,

Positions 3,4,5 work fine? But, 1 and 2 don't?

Also call the Line 6 support line they can walk you through the process,

and if there's still a problem they will go through some options.

-- Have you tried with a different computer?

-- What kind of computer? What is the OS on it?

-- Does the USB connector on the 500X look alright?

There is a general string-to-edge clearance spec that I set to, and I have the tools.

We don't usually bring them back for a set-up issue (check with the support line on

those options). But if there is something off about the neck, I'll be able to check it out.

I make a point of playing a variety of styles so that I cover most of the bases. From

what I recall, your 89 played nice when it was in last. 

Also, it is standard with me to do set-up for the climate of the end destination (ie- your locations).

If it's a smidgen off after four days of acclimatisation, take it to a local guitar tech to get that final dialing-in.

I hear about this off and on from those who do string pulls or Gulf Coast Chicken Scratch Blues.

The only time it happens to me on my 69, is when my playing technique isn't up to par at that moment.

Version 2.04 is the current one.

FrozenOzone,

For an 89/89F, have a tech check and re-align the neck. Nut position can

also be a factor. That's part of my standard check list when I do a set-up.

Yours might need a slight dial-in since I worked on it last.

The reason for the Hi-E slip thing on the 69 is usually for a different reason.

jackoloki,

If there is Hi-E slipping, that can be fixed. Call the Line 6 Support

Line so they can give you options on how to proceed.

What Charlie said,... most definitely. And the same for non-trem as well, but

to a lesser extent. Changing gauges will always need some set-up, some more

than others.

Take it to a Line 6 authorized service tech who will have access to service info,

including set-up specs.