codamedia

I'm pretty sure it's not a one time assignment and it needs to be assigned in each snapshot. (someone, please correct me if I am wrong) When you press one of the buttons you are changing snapshots.... you have not yet assigned those buttons, in that new snapshot. Also, make sure you save before changing the snapshot or you could lose those settings in a heartbeat depending on your snapshot choice in global settings (recall vs discard). Best practice is to always save before changing snapshots while editing.

I have seen statements like yours a lot of the forums, yet my HX Stomp never exceeds "warm", even after a 4 hour gig (sunlight excluded). I wonder how/why there would be such a discrepancy? My blocks are filled, but maybe I'm not running blocks that demand a ton of DSP. Those black cases don't do the units any favors. It's something I never think about until I have to do a gig in the sun. My LT bakes in the sunlight... I do everything I can to prevent a direct hit.

Your question is legit... there are several multi units on the market that allow you to scroll through a list then push to actually activate the preset. It is more limited on a Stomp, but YES it is possible to view your presets without hearing each one. The limitation is that you must be in preset mode to do this and depending on how you use your Stomp it may require additional footswitches to bounce between modes. (the big Helix units also need to be in preset mode, it's just easier to toggle in/out) Note: I don't have my stomp with me to try at the moment... I'm not sure if you just see preset numbers, or if you see the actual names. Either way, you need to organize before hitting a stage. How it works! In preset mode you will see three presets and must choose one to hear it. When you bank UP (FS2 & FS3) you see the next 3, but nothing loads until you choose it. Same applies to bank down (FS1 & FS2) From the manual... The important word is "queue"... that means nothing is loading, until you tell it to.

That's how you see this update? Not me, but I guess time will tell. When 3.5 was released they promised more cabinets coming soon... and that's what this update has provided. They unrolled these fairly quickly, and provided a couple other goodies while they were at it.

Global settings...

If you are talking about the factory presets, those are not volume matched. That would not be the fault of the speakers or your setup. IMO... in that setup your output on the Stomp should be set to LINE.. the input of the Stomp should be set to Instrument. I don't know which Yamaha's you have... but if there is a -10/+4 option, set it to +4. I don't go near factory presets, but matching levels on presets can easily be done at the output block of each preset.

Most newer devices are unleashed into the 5Ghz world... which in time is going to free up some of the 2.4Ghz space. But yeah, right now it is terribly congested. I've seen this happen with UHF systems. They became completely unusable because everyone from cabs to security used it. Fast forward 10 years & I'm the only one on stage with a UHF IEM system... I'm also the only one on stage that has never suffered any recent interference (knock on wood).

As somebody that never, ever, uses a looper, I would hate to see a "dedicated" footswitch on the Helix that I couldn't re-assign. I'm already upset enough that I can't re-assign the tuner/tap tempo :) Don't get me wrong, I'm not against upgrades to the looper... I just don't want dedicate hardware assignments.

If you are clipping the harmony block in this (non 4cm) set up... everything down chain from that is also seeing too much gain, you just might not notice it as badly. I would simply add a gain block in front of the harmony block and reduce the volume until it sounds good. When you turn the harmony block off - the rest of the path should still be getting the reduced gain it is used to in your 4cm setup. If that doesn't work try placing the "twin harmony block" in a parallel path - and set the tilt EQ in front of it on that path. This gives you really simple gain and tone control over the harmony block without compromising the rest of the path. SIDE NOTE: You could try the non 4cm setup into your normal amp to see if that same problem exists. If it doesn't, it just the amp/speaker at the rehearsal room giving you grief.

The Helix is the single best gear purchase I have made in my 40+ year career. It was the first modeler/multi-effect that met my wishlist, and has since exceeded it.

Have you tried the Ratatouille instead of the Vermin? IMO, it's a much nicer (more accurate) sounding RAT in the Helix.

Thanks for clarifying. In the studio and within most DAW's this is called a "side chain" and I would welcome it on the Helix. Right now we can do the same thing physically with an expression pedal, a footswitch or even a Variax control (tone or volume), but having it set to dynamics would be great. There is a Dynamic split... but all that does is introduce a parallel chain based on sensitivity. The ability to control a specific parameter in any effect of your choosing would be an outstanding addition for creativity. Implementing it as another controller has merit... providing there is an easy way to assign a footswitch to turn it on/off. That is where adding it as a block would be a simpler, more intuitive approach. (IMO of course)

The website has not been updated on the LT page. Nothing to worry about, the LT has everything the Rack & Floor has regarding amps/effects. There are just some physical and functional differences, some already mentioned above.

I use my Helix with pedal steel... it works great. I recently got an HX Stomp as a backup and now I use that primarily for Pedal Steel to keep them separate... but the premise is exactly the same. I just use a Deluxe VIB amp with a Rochester Comp and a Reverb of choice. I haven't dug into the new 3.5 cabs yet so I'm still using an MBritt IR as a cabinet. One of these days I'll likely replace the IR with a nice dual cab. I also do the Paul Franklin trick with delay... just a single repeat at 200ms, set so you barely notice it.

No, not with a single button. One option is to think of this in reverse. Set the screen to 8 snaps then anytime you want presets a single press of a bank button (any one) will reveal your presets until you choose one... then back to snapshots (or stomps if you were already there) you go. Of course, we all have different workflows and that may not work for you. After I choose a preset I want instant access to my snapshots/stomps, not more presets. I have zero reason to always keep presets displayed, so that's why I keep them one click away.

Over the years I've learned that a neck can play a large role in shaping the tone for a guitar.... but it's not a predictable role. You can't just look at the composition of a neck and expect a certain tone. There is too much interaction with every part of the guitar to know how something will sound until you try it. The only thing I know is that when I change a neck on a guitar, the tone of that guitar certainly changes and it's not just because of the nut.

I agree. That's the Adrian Belew approach... which produces very realistic seagull sounds. IIRC, Belew adds flange as well as delay. Matte Kudasai from King Crimson Discipline is a masterful display of the technique. Identical no... but through technique you can easily get a "mad laughing effect" that you have complete control over. IMO - it's much more realistic.

This is a little off topic... I just want to add my approach. I always set my inputs explicitly for each type. Even if the preset is essentially the same... I'll copy it and change the input. The reasons are two fold. Primarily, with quick changes on stage I don't want to forget to turn down the other guitar and have it "live" while playing the intended guitar. For me it's easier to grab the Variax and switch over to my primary Variax preset. The next reason is that it allows me to fine tune that preset for the guitar it was designed for. I don't suffer from "sounds great on the tele, not as good on the Variax" or vice versa.

In snapshot mode the footswitch turns on the snapshot...if it double hits it just reloads the same snapshot (with the default global settings) so you would never notice a problem. In stomp mode if it double hits it turns on the effect, then off again.... that's why you notice it. My Helix took about 4 years to display some footswitch issues, which is on par with any multi-effect I have ever owned. Since this is your first problem, #1 may work for you. When it first occurs... try the self cleaning option. Push down the footswitch and spin it several times. Repeat that a few times. This works for some, not for others. If it continues, you'll need to clean the micro switch which requires opening the unit. Don't attempt this if the unit is under warranty, and if you do attempt it... read up on it first. It's not difficult, but there are several things to be careful of. Once a good cleaning has failed the micro switch will need to be replaced. Just like cleaning, this is not difficult as long as you are comfortable with working on your own gear.

I think the end of the review sums it up... when it comes to modeling, stick to the major units. A re-branded "Eleven Rack / Headrush Gig Board" with added Peavey modeling won't be replacing my Helix anytime soon. If I ever decide to look at profiling I'd look at the Tonex. Certainly there will be features here that impact others in a more positive way than the Helix does... but not for me.

LOL, no problem...

Nothing wrong with a Bad Monkey... it's a great $50 pedal. There is nothing special about it either.

Try inserting a RETURN block at the front of the chain, and make sure it is set to "instrument" level. Plug the guitar into that return and see if the problem remains. This will tell you if the problem is just a dying input, or if the problem is deeper down the line. If it's just the input at least you can work around that until you get a chance to have it fixed.

I think the last 4 words are onto something :) I have a hard time trusting what we are being told. If this is a legit problem the OP has, I highly doubt it has gone through accurate troubleshooting with multiple guitars and HX/Helix devices as we are told.

Lots of great answers already which you have acknowledged... I'll just share my reasons. 1: Freedom of placement. I can choose the exact place I want that control at my foot, and it is different at almost every location. Sure, you could put a GAIN block anywhere in the chain as well and assign the pedal... but that leads me to #2 2: The VP block is the only option that offers LOG taper like a guitar volume/volume pedal uses. Anything else is much more linear. I think there is room for improvement on the taper, but for me it works. I do hold out hope that a future update will offer more taper options.