ArneLine6

Hi Derek,

The FH1500 does not have a input directly to the speakers for a power amp but you could use the line output from the Vox head and connect it to the monitor input on the FH1500.

The returns can be used but they do not switch the impedance according to the models loaded. So, in general, the front guitar input is the way to go.

Did you connect the sub to the other stage source speakers using the Line 6 Link connection? Depending on goals it could help to change the crossover setting on the back. The higher the crossover is set, the more low end energy is send to the subs instead of the L3 tops.

Hi Peter,

The FX Returns on Helix do not have the automatic impedance switching and overall specs of the Guitar In on the front. Please try to use the Guitar Input on the front and go from there.

Thanks, 

Arne

Very[/u] Loud indeed. looks like this may get it done. The weight is a drag but the FB1500, a fbv and guitar and I'm set.

Make sure that the Firehawk 1500 is updated to the latest firmware. There a a few DB's more in that :-)

A lot of fun can be had with a routing where you create a dry send right after the amp/ cab into the guitar in and a stereo send with 100% wet effects into the stereo monitor in.

Feeding the same signal into the guitar in and into the stereo in is dangerous in the sense of phasing issues and will probably not always work.

The stereo input goes to the stereo system. If only the left side is plugged in it goes to the mono (center) system. The guitar in always go the the center system and the internal stereo effects always go to the stereo system.

Which Helix outputs are you running to the Firehawk 1500's monitor and guitar inputs?

The factory reset is:

Hold the small encoder knob and the big volume knob pressed while powering up.

It looks like you were putting it into a test mode.

The stereo wide speaker mode uses an algorithm that gives a wider stereo spread perception. You will realize the difference only with strong stereo effects.

With an L2t you can connect your mic to one mic input, your acoustic guitar to the other pre amp input, add eq and effects, connect your AMPLIFi TT to the RCA Aux inputs and still have a line input left for a laptop or drum machine.

The L2t can cover any coffee house situation. If you need more volume you could use the L3t (disclaimer- the weight is similar to a Firehawk 1500)

Another option is a small PA, a small mixer and 6 signal cables and 3 power cables.

Yes I agree, but if I were designing this, I'd add that functionality to the App and save them to presets OR enable the Amp's EQ knobs to have a dual functionality just as the volume knob has when you press it in.

 

I think you meant to say 1/4" aux input on the L2t. And yes, the L2t would clearly be a good option, but its priced a little high for that field.

 

But back to the Firehawk....so if you were to use the Firehawk as your coffee shop acoustic guitar/vocal rig, you would get what device to make that all happen well? A small PA? The only small PA's I have seen tend to be noisy little devils and they get quite and clean when they get bigger.

 

Thoughts?

 

Thank you again!!

 

Adam

Thanks, I meant RCA Aux input.

The L2t has an 1/8" aux input where you could connect the Amplify TT to. The Firehawk 1500 was intentionally not designed as an "all in one- personal pa"- it's a stage amp, for guitar.

Had we added a mic input we would have added some separate controls for the mic channel with gain, eq, effects and the you would look at a panel with 8 additional knobs- on a guitar amp.

This one has two inputs that can be used with microphones and it has eq and effects:

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SSL2T

The Firehawk 1500 is first of all a stage amp. We do have a stereo Monitor Input but this one does not have mic pre amps so you would need a small mixer or something else with a mic pre amp.

We have thought about this but wanted to keep the guitar application as clear as possible.

The inputs go to the 3 systems: Stereo Left/ Dry/ Stereo Right. The crossover business between the 12" and the other speakers is not the point here. It basically looks like this:

This is actually a bug, sorry. The intended behavior is that the speaker mode is set globally so it would not change when the patch is changed. We'll fix that.

Have you tried turning the Monitor Input gain back a bit? It sounds like clipping could be happening. If your Monitor Input gain is anywhere past 12 o clock this is where I would start.

Did you try other cables?

We do intend to give you an option, we just need a bit to do the work.

Ok, then you are up to date. 

WOW! Is there anything this amp can't do? Just hooked up my Taylor acoustic. Pick tube preamp some fx and bamb, sounds like my fender acoustisonic but better with built in fx. Next up the full tilt bozo. Playing live with my electric and acoustic hooked up xlr out to mixer and monitor feed back into my Fh1500.

Great! Please make sure you have updated the firmware (http://line6.com/software/  -> software-> line6 updater) because we have just changed the audio routing so that the Monitor Inputs do not go to the Main Outs to prevent a feedback loop with a mixing console. 

If you realize that you need to adjust the sound so that another speaker connected to the XLR out sounds as close as possible it depends, of course, on the speaker the XLR signal will go through.

The easiest way to adjust low end of the speaker system without affecting the XLR outs is to change the speaker mode either in the app or on the amp itself. We have three speaker modes:

Wall

Intended for situations where the amp is close to a wall or in corner. The low end is cut to account for the increased low end response caused by the walls.

Floor

Intended for situations where the amp is used on the floor with the kick stand. The low end is cut (less) to account for the floor coupling.

Free Field

Intended for situations where the amp is used on stand, a case- not close to a floor or walls. The low end is not cut.

In the app the output tab has a setting for that:

On the amp, enter Live Edit mode by pressing the small encoder knob, turn the small knob until the display shows "SPKR", press the small knob again, turn the big knob (volume knob) to select the speaker mode. Press the "TAP" button to get out of Live Edit mode.

For more fine adjustments indepently from the XLR outs use the global eq. This one accessed from the app- the last element in the signal chain.

As long as the speaker can take it and no limiter is hit 😄

Let's talk real power not peak.

It has a 80 watt center channel amp.

2x80 amp and a 440 watt amp.

 

Looks like a total of 680 watts rms with high 1% thd.

 

Not sure how loud one 12 and what looks like two 6.5's are going to be compared to a regular 2-12 cab and would fail up against a 4-12 cab.

 

1% thd can be picked up by the human ear.

I miss old specs back from 1997-2000 like on a ppi power class amp signal to noise ratio 115 decibel , thd .006, dampening at 500.

 

Guess I'm still old school and I hate seeing peak power ratings. To get the full peak power you would have to blast a the perfect hrz for an instant with some really high total harmonic distortion level.

Watts are actually not a good way to measure how loud a system gets in general. The same amp (watts) to a highly efficient speaker can be twice as loud as to another, less efficient speaker.

That is why we have used the dBSPL @ 1m spec. That says "how loud (sound pressure, unweighted) can the system get at 1m distance". We have still published the peak power just because it is what everyone else does and we also published the RMS watts (sine, continuous, all at 1% THD).

There is no simple solution since most people are not familiar with dBSPL and "Watts" does not actually say anything about how loud a system gets.

One useful way to utilize the FH1500 processing with a floor modeler would be to do the post fx in the FH1500- effect trails when patch switching!